A list of puns related to "Drying Agent"
Undergrad question here; Iβm very sorry.
I need to dry an organic extraction. I got drierite (CaSO4). But it came in a granular form (mesh size 8), and Iβve never used something so large to dry an extraction with. The stuff Iβve encountered in teaching labs has been like a powder and you keep adding until it stops clumping.
Will it work? Or do drying agents have to be small? How will I know when itβs done pulling water out?
Man, it sucks being an undergrad and working with like only half a brain. I apologize in advance.
What could happen if a drying agent isnβt used to remove trace water from an organic sample before purifying the compounds via column chromatography?
Reading /r/nba, it feels like the amount of quality free agents available are drying up. Hope we get sign some bigs soon. We're lacking heavily in that department, unless we're tanking next year. But then if we are, what are we gonna do with Siakam and Powell's extension?
I am going to do a synthesis which requires solvents to dry the product and remove impurities however the solvents should be anhydrous I am going to use methanol although idk its %(its over 90% though) how can I remove all the water from it without distilling it I have sodium carbonate but it dissolves a bit so I want to know about other drying agents
Hi- Iβve recently come to this page looking for a hidden secret. I read about domoboro from a Menβs Health blog post. This is a drying solution typically used for poison ivy/oak. I used it on day 2 of my cold sore and it never went into stage 3 !!!! No puss or ooze. I found this in the itch isle at CVS.
So to make a long story short i am transferring my 90 gallon system from one house to the other.I have a brand new 90 gal tank at the new house thatβs ready. . Only issue i see is my sump. The sump can only be taken out of the top of the stand in my existing system . Doesnβt fit out the front with the center beam in the way. But also on my new system the sump needs to go in first also. So i need to break down the existing system . Get the sump out and transfer it to the new stand before the new tank can go on top. So Iβm forced to do my plumbing during the change over . Has anyone had to do this? I know a lot of glues arenβt reef safe but i need the safest and fastest glue to set so i can continue to refill the new tank and get all my coral and fish back into the new system. I work with cars and have very fast 2 part epoxys that we use on a daily basis and being two part it fully hardens and is dry in 1 min. Obviously i would give it more time to be sure everything is fully cured . But Iβm hoping to find something fast that is reef safe that i can use instead of having an issue with a certain glue i used because of my small window during transfer . Any help or tips are appreciated .
What causes the maximum of water, these two sulfates can hold?
We keep talking about how so many free agents are going unsigned, but a vast majority of free agents have signed or retired. What's left over isn't very good... or they're old.
Take a gander:
Pitchers:
I don't feel like going through all the other mediocre-awful relievers.
CarGo, Jones, Keuchel, Gonzalez, Buchholz, and Kimbrel are really the only names worth looking for, that deserve more than a minor league contract.
I can only imagine the reason those 6 haven't signed is because they're asking for too much.
I'll still take Cargo, though.
Edit: Should have mentioned this in case it wasn't obvious, all stats are from last season.
On a ceramic coat, I've been using ONR or wolfgang diluted, spray on wet, while drying.
Heard some tips to use TWISS or 303 touch less, spray on, rinse, then drag a drying towel across to dry. Is this overkill for a ceramic coated car?
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