Hello,
i wanted to share my experience (so far after about a month) running a sim rig which is not located right next to my desk/gaming PC. I had to move into a new place recently and therefore had to set up my rig about 5m / ~16ft from my PC. Figure in routing cables from the top of my desk, along the wall etc to my rig I need at least ~7m / ~22ft of cable length to connect it all. I thought about setting it up the other way around (put PC closer to my rig and run long cables to my desk), but since i sit at my desk more often than i sit in my rig i wanted to try it this way first. Pics can be found here.
I did not find much information regarding running long cables etc beforehand so i figured maybe my experience will be useful for someone else.
Basically I was worried about USB & displayport cable/signal strength. Would suck to lose connection mid-race because of a bad signal. Because originally I found these infos:
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The maximum DP cable length that Dell recommends for optimal performance is 1.8 meters (around 6 feet). "Using a DP cable beyond 1.8 meters in length may cause data loss and a negative impact to display quality" (source).
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The maximum length for USB 2.0 supposedly is ~5m / ~16ft, for USB 3.0/3.1 it's only ~3m / ~9ft. (source).
My gaming PC / sim rig specs are as follows:
- 3x Gigabyte G27FC, 27" 1080p, 165hz (for my sim rig, all connected via DP)
- 1x Viewsonic XG2401, 24" 1080p, 144hz (regular gaming monitor, connected via HDMI)
- NVIDIA surround for my triple screen setup: 5760*1080 @ 165 hz
- ASUS Strix RTX 3060ti
- Ryzen 5600x
- 16 GB RAM
- Heusinkveld sprint pedals
- Fanatec DD1
- Wireless MS media keyboard (for my rig)
- Hyper X Cloud II wireless gaming headset
- Win10
Here's what i'm currently using to connect my rig, and what has been working well for me so far (about a month) without any connection or signal issues.
Monitor setup:
- 3x 5m DP cables, PC output
- 3x Active/powered Displayport repeater all plugged in into a multi-port USB-charger. make sure y
Update 1/28/2022
I purchased the 25-foot version of this cable from Amazon. Despite it being twice the length of the original Centurylink-provided phone cable I was using, it still maintains the same excellent SnR on both of my DSL lines: around 25 dB.
Just goes to show that a high-quality cable can sometimes go a long way!
I have a bonded VDSL2 internet connection from CenturyLink. Using the default equipment that CenturyLink provided, I seem to be getting a very healthy signal-to-noise ratio (SNR) of about 25 dB on both lines.
Yesterday I wanted to move my modem further away from the wall, and onto my dresser. I went to Walmart and bought a very cheap 25-foot phone cable so I could make it happen. The new phone cable works, but... I noticed that the SNR on my connection goes way down when using it, to a meager 5-8 dB on both lines.
This was curious to me and I decided to do a little experimentation. I switched to yet another, much shorter phone cable (around 6 feet?) that was still a cheap Walmart cable. I wanted to see if simply shortening the cable would increase my SNR. It did go up - but only a little bit, to around 15 dB. Still not as good as the CenturyLink-provided cable, which is actually a longer cable.
Here are my questions:
- If I wanted to buy a new phone cable specifically for DSL purposes - that is, connecting my CenturyLink modem to the wall - is there a special type of cable, or "grade" of cable I should be looking for? Similar to the green one that CL provides in their modem kit?
- If the answer to the above question is "Yes", then would it be possible to buy a 20-25 ft version of this cable, and still have a good SNR? (like at least 20 dB or so?)
Thanks in advance.
I want to move my router about 30 feet away from my modem to an unfinished laundry room in the center of the house (run #1). And then from the router, run about a 30 foot section of Cat6 cable to a new wall plate in another room (run #2). And then I'd run another 50 foot section from the router to a new wall plate in a different room (run #3). Since the router will be in an unfinished room, I'll have easier access to the inside of the walls from there.
Since I only have three runs to add and don't own any Cat6 wiring tools, am I better off just buying predetermined lengths of Cat6 from Monoprice that already have the ends installed, and then just use inline couplers (like this) to connect to the new wall plate?
Or do the savings or other advantages make it worthwhile to buy bulk cable and buy the tools to do the punch down keystones at one end and the RJ45s at the other end? If so, which tools do you recommend?
I have an older finished house, and don't anticipate needing to run ethernet to any other rooms in the near future. But you never know, I guess.
Hello,
I am looking to charge my laptop and get ethernet connectivity with only one cable. I can see tons of adapters doing that.
The issue is that they all have (at least all the one I have found) a stupidly short cable and no possibility to use my own USB C cable.
Basically, for cable management reasons and not having the hub close to my bed while enjoying the laptop/ipad pro, I would like the hub to be close to the wall and only one cable (ideally 2meters - 6.5 feet but half can be acceptable) coming through the room
Can you help me to find this ite, or it simply doesn't exist?
This would save soooo much time and aggravation and make connection super easy. I might still also choose to splice the connection since it already runs almost 100 feet into my basement. All possible or no?
Regarding C9300-48P-A, at what point when you are stacking 4+ switches do you need to consider longer stacking and power cables? Assuming you separate a rack U between each switch?
What are the general guidelines for X switches for each cable length?
Im currently in a situation where my PC is in 1 small room, and 1 room nextdoor, I have a huge space that would be perfect for VR. Depending on a few factors, I might have to keep my PC in the small room tho.
So im trying to figure out if I can keep my PC in the small room, and have VR in the large room. The problem is, this will require cable length of at least 10 meters, or more probably..does this work? I imagine a USB, HDMI etc. cable wont work with such a long scale, at least not for something thats fast responsive like VR
Anyone know what the length of the extension cable is that comes with the outdoor impress pedestal?
I’m working out ways to reduce some of the spaghetti bowl (praise be the name, r’amen) and for some reason every single cable I’ve made since these new pass through RJ45 c rumps arrived, every cable I’ve made has failed the tester. It doesn’t seem to be consistent either. Sometimes it’s 3, other times it’s 3 through 6, or simply 6 or 7.
I’m not planning on making a few cables today and that’s it though, so naturally I went looking for “the best” crimp tool. Yeah, that got put on hold when it became apparent that a solid crimp tool can cost north of $150 when crimps are $10/50+.
At first I thought maybe I over penetrated when stripping the sheathing, or clipped/bent a line, but after recrimping ends on 3-4 of the 5 cables I made, it became apparent that this wasn’t the case.
I did notice that online the triple tooth crimps are sold as if they’re better, but something tells me that maybe the extra tooth is causing insufficient penetration when crimping.
Anybody have any idea what the heck I need to do to get back to work?
Thank you in advance.
I just built in the Q58 and have the Cooler Master V850 SFX power supply. I used the stock cables and with their length and stiffness (lol) its been somewhat difficult to cable manage. I'm not able to install a fan on the bottom fan mount and would like some help or suggestions about custom cables. I've never built a case with custom sleeved cables so is there anything I need to know or has anyone done custom cables for this case. I saw an earlier post about a guy on Etsy who makes them and has a lot of good reviews. Any help would be appreciated.
Selling a list of items. Some of them were never used and will have a * next to them. I am interested in elgato hd60 pro but locally preferred. Going back to my bifurcation build in my current T1 build. May also consider 4k60 pro (most likely)
Time stamp and local to San Diego, California 91911 https://imgur.com/a/NpJ1vix
Will be on Utah for a week in early January. So I will ship the items if sold before then.
-LOUQE GHOST S1 MK3 W/ L TOP HAT (LIMESTONE) $250 local or $290 shipped.
Timestamp https://imgur.com/a/85Kvj2T
It does have white carbon fiber wrap on the case and top hat except the rear side of the case. Includes 1x 120mm Nzxt fan with grill. Been kept in box for almost a year since I got the formd t1 case.
-ELGATO STREAM DECK 15 KEY SOLD TO u/Sparecash $90 local or $100 shipped
I upgraded to the XL and no longer need this stream deck.
-AVERMEDIA LIVE GAMER DUO CAPTURE CARD $165 local or $180 shipped
I use the elgato eco system and can't fully control the audio through wave link/stream deck setup. So instead I would rather aim for the HD60 pro. Works with no issue, just can't fully control the audio through wave link.
-CORSAIR SF450 GOLD $60 local
Barely used in old build and parted this psu out for a build that has built in psu (inwin chopin pro 200w). I'm not sure about shipping because of the cost. But I'm open for that possible idea.
-CUSTOM WHITE SLEEVED PSU CABLES (Corsair psu) $75 shipped or $65 local
24 pin, CPU, dual SATA, and 2x 6+2 pin GPU cables I went with sleeveless instead for better airflow in my formd t1.
-*NEVER USED BYKSKI WATERBLOCK for Nvidia rtx 3070 founders edition $80 local or $100 shipped
Never used and I went with ek instead due to size compatibility by a few millimeters. Never used any liquid of any kind in this waterblock and never installed it. All original screws are included.
-*ALPHACOOL DC 2600 PUMP AND 40 DC LT RESERVOIR combo AND barrow DDC pump/reservoir $100 shipped or $85 local
Never used and it was my backup in case the cpu block and pump failed. I stick with this over the external pump and res combo.
Barrow DDC pump/res
I used this to fill in my CPU block and pump. Turns out I prefer the harder way that I find a bit better. Cleaned it out with distilled water and works. Not perfect but gets the job done.
Long story short, my pc is pretty far from my router, and I am thinking of picking up a 200' ethernet cable to connect my setup instead of a wifi extender (which is giving very spotty connection right now). Will I experience noticeable speed drops? I feel like it can't be worse than my drops into the 50-100 kbps range from the extender, but I thought I'd ask anyways. Mostly concerned for games like Valorant where stable connection is vital.
Follow up question: are there better quality cables that will significantly affect performance?
Much appreciated!
Schiit Modi 3+ run from an Asus Strix Scar laptop. 6 foot cable would run comfortably, 3 would require moving lots of stuff. So does size matter? Thanks
Help! I’m set to take the 1001 in Feb 2022 and I am overwhelmed with the remembering of all the numbers- data throughputs, speeds, cable lengths etc. I participated in a professor messer study group and realized I’m not as ready as I thought.
Hey everyone! I'm new to the sub. Wanted to come on here to see if anyone had any guidance on how to best determine the appropriate length for custom cables? I'm going all out on a new build, so I of course have to get some pro series cables. I don't trust myself guessing, and I'm not sure how to best measure it. Does anyone have any tips? Or if anyone has a similar build, what lengths worked for you?
I've got a Corsair 5000D Airflow, Asus Dark Hero mobo, and Asus Strix 850w PSU.
Planning to go for the 24 pin ATX, 4 + 8 pin EPS, and 8+8+8 pin PCI-E.
For those that have the new Q1 (I'm getting a Q2), what is the length of the USB C cable?
What are the best PSU (Corsair SF) cable length for Louqe Ghost S1?
I got the option to choose 100mm 200mm and 300mm on all types of cables. Can I get away with 100mm on the ATX 24-pin etc.?
I already got the corsair SF individual sleeved cable and they are way too long and I don’t find them to be as pleasing aesthetically as aftermarket offerings.
I'm about to start sleeving a set of cables for myself (after finalising measurements based on the responses here, and waiting for shipping), but I expect to upgrade my PSU in no more than 2 years. Too long to just delay when I have the means to do it now, but too soon to feel like it's worth the effort to have my cables only last that long.
Instead, I would like to sleeve my set of cables as extensions, and shorten the stock cables to act as an adapter for the PSU. When I get a new PSU, I can just shorten those cables as well.
Given that I haven't seen anybody do this, I assume it's not a great idea. Since I'm not an electrical engineer, I have no idea why, but if there's no electrical reason it won't work, I think it suits my use case well enough that I still want to try. In addition, designing around having 'adapter' cables gives me some leeway in changing the total needed length of cable when I eventually get a new case. I could just make them longer now I guess, but while that solves the issue of changing cases, I'm still at square one for changing PSU.
- I understand using the stock cables in this way would lead to voltage loss due to the extra resistance. I'm effectively doubling the length of my cables if I don't shorten the stock cables and I see why that would be an issue. But is it really? It would be nice if I can save the effort of shortening them. I'll just coil them up behind my PSU shroud that came with the case and offers plenty of hidden space.
- I don't see why there would be any problem with having a connector in the middle of your cable. Maybe a small loss of voltage I suppose, but I expect it to be negligible. I could be wrong though.
- If I go the route of shortening stock cables, can I just go to each wire individually, cut out a large section from the middle, and join the two ends using those generic electrical connectors? I mean like these. Obviously extracting the pins, cutting off the end of the cable, and reinserting them into their spot on the original connector will be the cleanest and most by the book way, but that's a lot of work that seems unnecessary. But as a noob at this, I have to make sure.
Edit: Or should I just try to modify the PSU end of the cables when I upgrade? Or do what I assume everyone does and make a whole new set?
Just a quick question for those that got their Ioniq 5 already. Do you have a picture of the stock charging cable and how approx how long is it? thanks!
