I got this old wheel I want to put on a beater and it would make more sense if both wheels use the same type of inner tube. Would it be safe to drill the valve hole to a bigger size to fit a Schrader valve or it's dangerous? I feel the cut would have to be very smooth because if any sharp filings are left that would instantly puncture the tube but besides that are there issues with this?

Is there a reason a presta valve is better? I've always had problems with these. When I worked in a shop people would constantly bring bent presta valves and when I tried to straighten them back it would just break off or bend the rod that it is attached to it which would cause it to not screw back all the way in and when you put a valve cap on it would push the valve and slowly leak air.

That being said, i've never had any issues on Schrader apart from the valve itself coming loose sometimes (very rarely) which is an easy fix with the valve tool. So why is Presta more preffered? Why do everyone use that nowadays when Schrader valves seem to be much stronger? Is there something i'm missing?

I personally do not buy presta tubes and valves anymore. Especially when you use a hand pump you'll 90% the time end up bending the valve no matter how careful you are with the pump (maybe there is better pumps that do not bend the valve but I have tried bunch of known good pumps and they all bend it, doesn't bend when using a floor pump tho because you are not constantly pushing back and forth on the valve.

Would love other mechanics opinion on this

I had two tech’s come out and they both gave me different answers.

The first guy was the one that installed the unit 10 years ago. He showed me the indoor coil and spots of oil and rust. He did not do a sniff test. Replacement coil cost was $1800 total.

Second guy came out and did a sniff test on the outdoor and indoor unit and said they are fine. The problem is the three Schrader valves. He said one of the caps was off and the other Schrader valve was making a hissing leaking sound. He said the guys that looked at this lost probably left it off. The cap was right next to the unit so I am not sure if he’s being honest. Cost to replace valves was $800. He said the coil may go in a year or two and that would cost $4500. This tech was deff. Trying to sell me. He originally came and said yep you have an issue but for me to diagnose it it will be $129. I told him nevermind and he called his manager and waived him. For some reason I feel like he wants to repair the valves, fill the system, let me use it for a couple months before he can come back and say the coil needs to be replaced.

The unit was off while he was doing his sniff test around the indoor coil. Would he have detected a leak then? Also, if all of the refrigerant has leaked out, will the sniffer pick anything up?

I would rather just get the coil replaced by tech 1 and replace the valves myself but am a little confused here. Any help?

For those of you that have gone tubeless on the stock Bontrager Connection rims, what valves did you use? I see Stan's makes a schrader one, and a few no-name brands on Amazon as well. I'm wondering if I can just use a Presta valve though. Will the tapered rubber end center the valve properly so that it doesn't move around in the larger schrader hole?

I think I did a good job on the title but yeah , i have been riding road for a while and I have a pretty nice mini pump that i like a lot but sadly it's a presta valve only and I was wondering if there's any way that you guys know to keep using it on my daily bike

Carrier package unit from early 2000's. My normal tool will not remove the schrader core because it is not deep enough I guess. Is there a special tool for this style? What's the best way to replace these cores?

Could someone who has purchased a replacement tube for the new 2.0 (20" x 3" tire) from Lectric, post the length of the Schrader valve. I'm trying to buy a aftermarket tube off of Amazon.

Newb here

Hello everybody, I am excited to announce some recent breakthroughs in the clamp restore system, This revision is in early stages of testing but so far it has been extremely promising. Thanks to JohnSherlockHolmes for the idea of the grooves.

https://preview.redd.it/s4bq1r44oly61.png?width=2000&format=png&auto=webp&s=28eaaf1155838268e7d9d0c69a73d41a93e629e6

https://preview.redd.it/8wvy3sh9ply61.png?width=2000&format=png&auto=webp&s=7fa8d1501b4406748e4779136cb85700dce03bec

Updates:

• Decreased the minimum clamp gap to about a third of the v10
• Added grooves to the inside of the outer cone to improve grip and seal
• Added internal threading to the inner cone model & made it match the metal versions

The changes are in the outer cone mostly, this revision matches the metal inner cones I have made already and the inner cone design has not changed.

This new revision greatly increases grip over the last version, as well as seal. If you are using an air valve you have to be careful to not overfill as the air will hold even at way too high of a pressure. If you have a metal version of mine and would like an updated outer cone let me know.

Here is the link to the files if you want to print one: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1TuvKha2Y8_HEXu9L58RPfjxmUBd9icml

Here is a link to the Use Guide: https://www.reddit.com/r/ClampRestore/comments/mzf1ao/clamp_restore_usage_guide/

I'd recommend using PETG as its able to be disinfected using rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide. Its also generally more impact resistant than PLA or ABS and considered relatively food safe. You will need to get your own 1/2-13 hex nuts, stainless steel or nylon will work best.

The .stl files can be imported into a slicer, the .f3d file is the fusion 360 file for the project if you want to see the steps I took to model this and tweak it.

Hi,

I have bought the Muc-Off tubeless kit so I can finally go tubeless on my bike. Problem is I just remembered both my rims have Schrader holes. I didn't think it would be a problem at first since I've always used Presta tubes without any problem but I am now thinking it would be a major concern for a tubeless setup.

Would a Presta valve fit and not go through the rim or would I need some kind of rubber grummet adapter to convert my rims to Presta valves ? Would such things be compatible with a tubeless setup ?

If any of guys went tubeless with Schrader rims and Presta valves please help me find out if I can make it work.