Looking for as much as possible!!
Is it worth any time buying some lumber and stacking it for a year? I find its so wet and twists immediately that you cant use it on projects. Anyone try it? Results?
Sorry for the long writeup. It's difficult to find clear practices for dovetailing softwood. So
I've been practicing my dovetails to finish up a serving tray with red oak for sides and eastern cedar for front/back. The plan is for the cedar to be tails and the oak to be pins so the tails will be in the front and back. Of course I'm having difficulties in general as it hasn't even been a year since I started woodworking and softwood is difficult to be precise with but I'm determined to finish the project as planned and as clean as possible.
I'm going through Rob Cosmans pine candlebox build to help but he's so quick that it's difficult to retain the softwood related tips.
I know I need to keep super sharp chisels. I don't think my sharpening is perfect but I spent alot of time getting it right and I get good results with nice shiny surfaces. I know it's recommended to have low bevel angles for the chisels. I only have 4 chisels in 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch so I don't want to sacrifice any to become a softwood only chisel (though maybe I should since I use softwood so often). I'll probably have to go with buying a 1/4 and 1/2 to use for this purpose but for the time being that's not an option since I'm having to be santa. Money is tight.
I think the tip I don't understand as much is in regards to chiseling waste to not "mush" the edge fibers to avoid gaps. It seems by "undercutting" waste I'm pressing the bottom edges on the face and back and pressing the gap to be wider? How do you prevent that? What technique is there to replace undercutting?
I'm also having difficulties with my pin boards in general. It seems my main issue is marking the pins. I'm trying to use Cosmans techniques like rebating the tail board for pin board marking support, marking pins before cutting tail waste, offsetting pin board to saw thickness and I even built his dovetail kerf knife to help. Problem is its significantly thicker than my dozuki and placing it in my cuts is tough and makes the gaps widen. Also my coping saw that uses the thinnest pegas blade I could get can't easily fit in the cuts either.
I'm thinking based on my tool set, on my next practice joint I should avoid marking the pins with waste still intact and use traditional marking techniques followed by careful sawing. Additionally I could avoid using the coping saw and chisel the waste instead.
If you have any tips I would greatly appreciate it.
Hi all. I got Ooni Fyra 12 as christmas gift, as my GF probably couldn't take my cooking pizza efforts in home oven with various technics and burns, she decided to buy me Ooni Fyra 12. I am so excited about it but currently have some problems finding pellets.
-
I live in Turkey (yes, alone itself this is a big problem), and i could only find softwood pellets here, the best ones appeared as needle-leaved trees.
-
None of those has food grade or any grade. they are just pellets, and currently being used as heating source for homes, or animal food or cat toilet thingy alternative. Turks still use coal for bbq, so, nobody has need of purchasing food-grade pellets. But there are producers that claims "100 % pine pellet - no additives, MDF etc. therefore won't release poisonous smoke". I will call and ask them if they use any binding agent, because some also mentions that they use 1 % corn starch to bind. But many of them mentions that wood chips has natural lignin to bind - but no way to confirm
-
Additionally, when I was searching for oak pellets, I found "Acorn Pellet". I assume this is not the same as "hardwood oak pellet", because this one is from oak's fruit. Or Are the other oak pellets also made from the Acorn?
-
They all says that energy is around 4500-5000 kcal/kg (close to 9000 BTU/pound)ö so, it is quite premising actually, compared to Ooni hardwood pellet's values.
-
Update to post: did anyone try or suggest beech or hornbeam pellets?
What do you suggest? Should I just go with 100 % pine pellet?
appreciate the responses!
Hey my UK friends,
My brother and I have started a desk project for the House. We've got some old scaffold boards that we've machined down to nice "fresh" pine but we want to stain it a different colour.
I've never done this before and don't really know what to use. My brother has used Danish oil on other projects but he said the smell lingers for ages and it's not pleasant.
Can anyone help with recommendations? Should we be using something latex based or something water based or oil based?
Appreciate any and all!
TL;Dr fresh wood, what should we stain it with?
Edit: clarity
I want to make a stump for my anvil but i don't have any hardwood beams available near me.
Would it be ok to make one out of Fir? The anvil has an incredibly wide base so it should spread the weight on a broader area. If that makes sense. The anvil is 100kg(220lbs) austrian design.
"Fixed an issue that caused attribute mods to not be usable as an ingredient when crafting repair kits."
This little charms will increase in price soon.
