If I have a vector function, R^(3) -> R^(3), and it is both curl and divergence free, what is the characteristics of it? What properties is it bound to have, rather than what properties it doesn't have (curl and div)? What I mean is what type of function it must be and why. I read something about it being a harmonic function or its derivative, but I dont understand why.
I dint understand how div curl F is always zero. Consider the vector field F=( 0 , x^z ,0 ). Here divergence of the curl will be non-zero, right? Thanx for answeres!
I work with a lot of different technicians. I have seen over the years many of them whack a metal pipe, solenoid, or valve to try to fix them if something in the system (large equipment) isn't working. Does anyone have any sound reasoning on why this is done? I have to believe that it's solved something before from the number of people I've seen do it, but I don't think it's ever fixed anything that I've been helping to troubleshoot.
The only thing I can think is that the valve or solenoid is stuck in the wrong position. I doubt hitting the outside of it with a wrench would fix that though.
I will be starting an internship at a lab, where I will conduct measurements to determine if the axis of a magnetic field created by two identical solenoids is the same as the geometric axis. This is a non-cryogen 6-T superconducting magnet.
The people at the lab believe that one of the solenoids is slightly tilted so that the two magnetic fields are not aligned. I will look for vibrations on a wire carrying current along the geometrical axis.
I wanted to share this and ask if anyone here has some experience with such magnets or with such measurements. Does anyone know of a book or a paper they would recommend I read? Does anyone have any tips? Any kind of help is appreciated!
I just finished my sophomore year in college and I'm a Physics and Math major, so my knowledge on Physics is not completely extensive but I know Intermediate Electromagnetism.
If anyone wants more specific information please let me know.
Hey all,
First time posting on reddit, I hope this is in the relevant forum and goes well!
I just wanted to know a little bit more about the limitations of solenoids, and whether one would practically work the way the theory suggests.
I want to see if a solenoid can produce a linear force over a distance of roughly 0.5 to 1.5m with forces of around 50-1000N for roughly 1-5 seconds. As far as I've read, it is theoretically easy enough to manage (with enough coils, current, distance of the ferromagnetic core from the coils etc.) but I wanted to know if this is something that is achievable.
Questions in my head include:
Can this force be produced with your standard power supply? 1000N applied over 1.5m in 1 second = 1.5kW, is the efficiency something that will allow for this? If not, what is the maximum power expected to plug into a 10A power supply (am in Australia, 240V).
Will the coils overheat if used for too long?
Will the magnetic field be insanely large/hard to contain in a metal casing?
Is the force produced consistent and will the speed of the load being moved affect the force applied to it?
If the load being pulled is greater than the force drawing it into the solenoid, and it's pulled away from the center of the coil, will that create extra heat/will this be a problem?
How quickly can a solenoid start producing this level of force?
I have no idea if my questions make sense but any and all information will be greatly appreciated!
Thank in advance!
Peter
I replaced the vtec solenoid but the car still wonβt let me go past 4k rpms, what could be the problem?? 2003 Acura Rsx base auto
Hello,
I am looking for a pneumatic solenoid valve that can be used to control the motion of a piston in a double-acting cylinder. The descent of the piston drives the esxtrusion of a viscous material contained in the lower section of the cylinder through a small orifice. Our system is currently equipped with a 5/2 manually actuated valve (it's described as 5/2 on the datasheet, but if its lever is moved to an intermediate position the piston stops where it is), and our aim is to automate the motion of the piston during extrusion by replacing that with a solenoid valve. The type that seems best suited for the purpose is a 5/3 valve with operating pressure between 0 and β₯4 bar, but when I went looking for one I could only find valves with a minimum differential pressure of 1.5 bar, which I can't use since the pressure needed to achieve extrusion at the desired rate is generally β€1 bar. I turned to looking for 3/2 direct-acting valves thinking I could use two and obtain the same result as with a 5/3, but even if it worked it would still be preferable to have one component instead of two, so:
- do all 5/3 solenoid valves have a minimum operating pressure? If so, why? If not, where can I find one that doesn't?
- would the two 3/2 valves workaround actually work?
- why does our valve's datasheet say it's 5/2 if it has 3 positions? (diagram below)
(I am not an engineer and don't know much about this subject, please forgive me for any conceptual or terminological mistakes!)
Thank you :)
EDIT:
Does anyone have a simple guide for wiring up solenoids?
I have a switch, a solenoid, and an old PC power supply. But I'm super confused as to what goes where, and how to safely wire everything up.
I want to know if there's a type of solenoid that can switch between on/off using energy, but resume to stay in either on/off position without energy.
Bistable solenoid! Thanks KuglicsL! Also called a latching solenoid.
Here is a rotary one https://youtu.be/SuJdclgcMKE
Also another is magnetic latching solenoid. Here's a link for one. https://youtu.be/eKdtLnny2dQ
I am in the process of designing an HPA nerf gun that uses as many 3D printed components as possible. I incorporated a 12v solenoid valve into my design to regulate airflow. However, I have had trouble finding a 12v battery that is small enough to reasonably fit into my design (one that could fit into the palm of someone's hand would work). Any ideas on where to find a battery like this? Or should I use a battery of a smaller voltage and incorporate some kind of boost converter? I have very little experience with electronics, and any help or suggestions is appreciated. Thanks!
Basically I have a project that requires hundreds of tiny moving parts in sequence and seen as I'm already familiar with ARGB and basic programming I figured a good Segway into this would be to utilise those chips embedded in SMD LEDs. Is it possible to buy those chips, at a reasonable SMD size, to enable surface mount or traditional soldering?
Whenever I search ws2812 it only gives me LED strips and I'm largely unfamiliar with electrical engineering so am unsure how else to find what I'm after.
So I've been rocking my 170r for about 5-6 months and shot about 3 cases (I haven't been able to go due to covid but I digress). I've recently started having this issue where if I screw my tank and gas it in it works fine, but as soon as I de-gas it for whatever reason and gas it back up it starts leaking from the ASA. I took it to the field tech and he said it was the solenoid. Any ideas how to fix it? Also, I de-gas it after every game and gas it up before every game, should I just leave it gassed up to avoid gassing and degassing constantly?
Hi everyone,
I see a lot of talk about how you cannot do preinfusion with a Silvia because the 3 way solenoid valve dumps the excess water when the shot button is turned off.
I was thinking if it might be possible to add another switch inline with the solenoid valve and essentially turn it off for the preinfusion step, then flick it back on when switching the brew switch for the second time?
My left button solenoid stopped working only a few months of owning the machine with minimal use. Will Arcade1Up provide a solution or replacement part for me to fix? This is my one and only machine and I really like the immersion the solenoids bring to the experience. The left being out takes away from it, and am just curious about what I could potentially do. I've already sent a ticket, just looking for some insight to those who may also have/had this problem.
Thanks!
Check out my discord for updates! https://discord.gg/BeCzUnuy
Update about the P365: That's still is in the works!
2010 MS3, stock except for a Corksport intake (the kind that doesn't require tuning).
I've been getting a P0171 (running lean) error periodically for the past few months. Seems to pop up more in very cold weather (yey Minnesota). On VERY cold starts (sub -5F), the engine will fire up and then stall a few seconds later. Tends to work fine on the second start, though a little wheezy for the first 10 seconds of idle.
Code is throwing because the long term fuel trims are crazy high (25+). Performance hasn't felt terrible, but maybe I just don't drive like I used to what with the second row full of car seats.
Long story short, the dealership was useless - they pulled the code that I already knew and basically said "we should try replacing the MAF and the O2 sensor (for ~$1500), see if that fixes it" without any actual diagnosis of either part. Ordinarily wouldn't have gone to the dealership, but I had some recalls outstanding and the code had resurfaced earlier that day.
I had already replaced the MAF, but it was an aftermarket part so they didn't like that. They were also squeamish about an aftermarket intake, but it's been installed for years.
The internet seemed to be telling me that I had a vacuum leak somewhere based on the high fuel trims, so I took the intake apart today. One of the barbs was loose and snapped off the boost control solenoid while I was feeling around. Seems like a likely leak candidate. Ordering a new one today.
TLDR:
My question is this - would a leaky boost control solenoid cause enough extra air intake in non boost conditions (like startup/idle) to throw fuel trims off that much? Or should I be looking for another issue while everything is dismantled and I wait for parts?
EDIT: I looked back and the first code a couple months ago was actually a P0296. This feels about the same to me, but maybe that's a clue for somebody smarter than me.
I am in the process of designing an HPA nerf gun that uses as many 3D printed components as possible. I incorporated a 12v solenoid valve into my design to regulate airflow. However, I have had trouble finding a 12v battery that is small enough to reasonably fit into my design (one that could fit into the palm of someone's hand would work). Any ideas on where to find a battery like this? Or should I use a battery of a smaller voltage and incorporate some kind of boost converter? I have very little experience with electronics, and any help or suggestions is appreciated. Thanks!
