I'm building a post apocalyptic junction box, holding both plumbing and wiring. The wiring will be neatly done (originally) but has been modified with jumpers, splicing, etc over the years as systems fail. I'm driving system indicator lights and a few indicator lights off of an arduino and I was hoping to use it to drive a special effect to simulate a occasionally wire sparking.
What I have now is an ultra bright white and red led driven (via a relay) from the arduino. My state machine looks like this:
- Black- 5-8 seconds
- White 100 msecs
- Red 75 msecs
- Black 500 - 1000 msecs
- White 100 msecs
- Red 75 msecs
- repeat
While the idea was great, the execution is .. ok.. The light flashing is definitely too slow, but when I shorten the 'on' time, the led gets dimmer. (I suspect this is a combo of the led response time, arduino, and relay lag). When I started poking around to see how others did it, I didn't find much. (warning bells)
Has anyone done or seen sparking simulated with led's before? If so, do you know the timing and LEDs used?
Has anyone done this in another way? I'm looking cheap, safe (no real sparks), and not too bright. - It will be on my office wall and continual loud sparking might be too much of a distraction...
https://preview.redd.it/ss4g4gcvowa81.jpg?width=3035&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0c590f3ebca90625eba26c989326240782458252
So I just installed 6 new First Alert Smoke and CO(Model SC7010B) detectors, replacing the existing 10 year old wired smoke detectors. After they were all connected the green power lights went out in 4 of the 6 detectors. I pulled them down and then tested each one on a known working wire and successfully got them all with the green power lights on. About 10 minutes later one of the alarms went off. The detector had an electrical burning smell and was hot to the touch. It seems the alarm was triggered by the detector shorting out. Has anyone every experienced this with a smoke detector?
THe power is out in one of my upstairs bedrooms We checked the breaker box and I had home improvement guy from Task Rabbit take a look. He says the problem is in the walls and he would have to drill or cut holes in the walls in order to find the problem. He doesnt know how long this task will take? Does this sound normal? Is this the best way a professional would go about finding an electrical problem like this?
I have a Whirlpool WFG505M0BW2 gas range and the control board died after moving the range to my new residence. The burner valves work and I can light it with a stick lighter, but electronic ignition and oven does not work since that's all electronically controlled. It was still under warranty, so a Whirlpool service agent came out and said it was the control board, which seemed obvious. The part number is W11113908 or W10841331. That was two months ago, of course like everything else these are having availability problems.
I got sick of not being able to bake however, and my warranty has since expired. So I kind of said f*ck it and I found a W11113908 control board on ebay and bought it. Installation was simple, but I had the same issue, this control board is dead too. It makes me think that the problem was never the control board, but possibly a short or something in the wiring harness or chassis of the unit. I am not able to find a service manual online for this particular model, so I am not sure where to look or what to check for this. I do have a voltmeter and am willing to use it. Any advice? Thanks!
I've blown fuse #10 repreatedly: Seat Memory Switch, Automatic Drive Positioner Control Unit, Driver Seat Control, Door Mirror, BCM (Body Control Module)
I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on which of these systems, I should check first. Is one more likely to fail, or is one far quicker and easier to troubleshoot?
Thanks!
I have a question involving car wax. I bought a used cd, and it turned out the seller had applied car wax to the cd (in an effort to remove scratches). Unfortunately, I didn't notice the wax until after I had taken the cd out of my cd drive, so I'm assuming wax got inside. The car wax was in powder form because it had dried. Can car wax damage a cd drive or other electronics?
Does car wax conduct electricity? Should I be concerned about the car wax causing electrical shorts inside the cd drive?
Any ideas for removing the wax?
The only way for JPM to win the electric market was to cheat, intimidate, and steal... this company has been in theft since it’s founding... stealing the patent to Nikola Tesla AC current. Just in case you need one more reason to stack... there’s one more. By the way GE is started under the JPM umbrella in case you didn’t know that either...
Any other courses also appreciated
Pictures of the potential problem areas: http://imgur.com/gallery/D37MICg
I know this is for mechanical advice; I read the rules and didn't find anything restricting questions about electrical problems, so remove if not allowed.
2007 Nissan Frontier, approx 220k miles.
I got pulled over in April because my right tail light was out. I changed the bulb, but that didn't fix it so I checked the fuse. It was blown, but replacing it didn't fix it either. I noticed some damage to the light socket when I replaced the bulb. Pics in the link. The plastic male plug of the bulb was melted to the socket.
The vehicle has sat since late April because I've been busy at work and I haven't needed it since then. The battery is dead now (like, dead dead), I'm guessing because of the possible short.
My plan is to replace the socket first, then if that doesn't work, I'll replace the positive terminal... assembly... thing. I'm not sure if that would cause the problems I'm having, but it's looking rough.
Does this sound like a short or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Does anyone have experience chasing down and fixing electrical shorts? Is this something a novice can tackle? To give you an idea of my mechanical aptitude, it took me about 6 hours to change my spark plugs and I do basic maintenance (oil changes, tire rotation, replace brake pads) myself.
Is there anything you can think of that I may be overlooking?
I've been chasing this issue for days, but I think I've narrowed it down. Printing without USB connected to anything works fine. Plugging in the USB cable to my computer (or laptop, or anything grounded) and Autohoming causes the the print head to crash into the bed.
The Z endstop sensor doesn't work when USB is connected.
I'm not enough of an EE to solve this. More details in post. Help?
EDIT: The USB cable has the 5v lead taped off. This isn't a 5v backpower issue.
I'm building a post apocalyptic junction box, holding both plumbing and wiring. The wiring will be neatly done (originally) but has been modified with jumpers, splicing, etc over the years as systems fail. I'm driving system indicator lights and a few indicator lights off of an arduino and I was hoping to use it to drive a special effect to simulate a occasionally wire sparking.
What I have now is an ultra bright white and red led driven (via a relay) from the arduino. My state machine looks like this:
- Black- 5-8 seconds
- White 100 msecs
- Red 75 msecs
- Black 500 - 1000 msecs
- White 100 msecs
- Red 75 msecs
- repeat
While the idea was great, the execution is .. ok.. The light flashing is definitely too slow, but when I shorten the 'on' time, the led gets dimmer. (I suspect this is a combo of the led response time, arduino, and relay lag). When I started poking around to see how others did it, I didn't find much. (warning bells)
Has anyone done or seen sparking simulated with led's before? If so, do you know the timing and LEDs used?
Has anyone done this in another way? I'm looking cheap, safe (no real sparks), and not too bright. - It will be on my office wall and continual loud sparking might be too much of a distraction...
https://preview.redd.it/lgixk71e5sa81.jpg?width=3035&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a913cf60f5639b5a5a1b8954557f27e948a3e887
