Is there a difference in effect of noise when using flexible conduits or piping for electrical wires? I will put 2 wires for 24VDC, 2 wires for 4-20mA current input signals, and a ground wire. They will be connected from a junction box to a flowmeter.
Thanks.
I had an idea to make some lights similar to the "black iron pipe" lights but with electrical conduit since it's designed to hold wire and can be bent. However, bright, shiny zinc colored doesn't fit the image in my head.
Anyone every try to paint the stuff? Seems like there might be some oil leftover from the factory on some of the pieces. I'm thinking an acetone wipe and an etching primer would do the trick. Any thoughts? Thanks.
(Sorry if I'm not being descriptive enough here. I'll be glad to clarify anything that may be unclear.)
I very regularly have large quantities of conduits going from Point A to B, and calling them all out individually is both time consuming and takes up more room than necessary.
For a bank of conduits, what I have done in the past is have one leader that has an expandable loop that can encompass said bank of conduits, going to the first conduit callout, then calling out the next conduit below that, and so on and so forth...
The powers that be here where I work are ok with this. Then I had an idea for an issue that sometimes pops up: depending on the direction/angle of the conduit, sometimes it can be ambiguous which conduit is at the top of the callout stack.
In the first image attached (Conduit1), I'd say it's easy: the conduit at the top is conduit 101, the second is 102, etc.
In (Conduit2), with vertical conduits maybe it's a little less obvious. I'd say they'd be numbered from left to right... then in pics 3 & 4 we go with diagonal conduit runs.
So here's what my idea was: build something into the leader (the leader is a separate dynamic block from the callout) that identifies which end of the leader is the 'top' of the conduit callout stack. If you look close, there's a little "T" on each of them. I don't like this solution, but I like the idea of having... well, something there. Maybe a closed circle, or an angle/squared off end instead of the semi-circle? some symbol?
Anyone run into this? What hurdles have you seen? What solutions?
Most electrical drawings I have seen have zero conduit shown. I have been doing this close to 15 years and I still don't understand why I, as a piping designer, need to show every 1/2 inch pipe, but electrical designers seem to think that (4) 4 inch conduits is "means and methods."
I recall a story at my old company. We were a full design build firm and we designed every part of the building and the equipment in house. To expedite construction we wanted to get large conduit buried so we could pour a floor slab. Part of that was defining a point down from the panel, a depth, and then up to the floor mounted equipment.
You would think we shot these electricals in the arm of something. The complaints, the disagreements, the "means and methods" of it all. They spent more time arguing about it than if they had just done the work.
This wasn't just my old company, either. This is something that's common across our entire industry. I have worked with and for other firms. They all have the exact same mentality. Recently I moved and I'm on the construction side so I get a lot of bid documents. Duct, pipe, and plumbing drawings are all shown in 3D and coordinated, but then the electrical drawings are just symbols, notes, and schedules. Nothing is actually shown, despite conduits taking up lots of space.
Why? Is there a reason beyond "we've always done it this way?"
Is there any way (Even by third party) to apply schedules to conduits in an electrical project? We are currently doing this by typing our circuiting in the comments section and extracting a report with conduit size, length, comments, etc. along with a lengthy process of getting an order summary through excel with pivot tables, etc...
Does revit actually not have a system that can do something like this?
Any suggestions?
EDIT: I added a link in reply to my self (could not paste the link in an edit) that shows my situation. I also note that my neighbor on the other side has the same issue with a neighbor having their power line run across their yard. So, one power pole feeds four houses in a row, but two of us have this issue with neighbor’s power and data running across our yards.
We have a smallish house of 1400 sf. Our lot is 5000 sf. House was built circa 1925.
We use our backyard quite a bit - gardening, entertaining, etc.. We hate the visually intrusive electric wires that not only feed our house, but our neighbor’s lines also run across our yard. There are also land-line telephone wires for both our house and our neighbor’s running across our yard. And then, of course, internet. That’s two power lines, two internet cables and three telephone lines crisscrossing our backyard. I should mention that all our utilities are out back where they run along a utility easement alleyway.
Ideally, I’d like to have an electrical mast at the back corner of our property that routes electric and data underground to our house. Another mast at the other corner for the neighbor, but that would be just to dog-leg her wires from utility lines, to mast, to her house, just to get them for crossing our yard.
Is this something that is done? The underground run for our house would be about 50 feet.
I have a room in my basement with the setup described in the title. The conduit is bolted into the cinderblocks. I want to frame the wall but I can't think of a clean way to lay the 2x4s against the wall while working around the conduit. Is my only option to tear out existing, then frame, then wire through the framing to code?
Where I have dug my fence post hole is directly on top of buried pvc pipe that carries the wire to my shop. It comes off the edge of my carport next to the furthest wall on the house. It’s buried approximately 12+”. I want make sure I’m not going to have any issues before pouring the concrete. Also I bought regular concrete for this post due to cost of the fast setting. Can I just do the same as fast setting and put it in the hole and add water or does it need to be mixed first?
Hello all, I’d like decent WiFi in my detached garage. It’s too far for a mesh network to reach, so I’m wondering about running a cable. On the house side, the utility closet has both the electrical panel and the Ethernet switch. On the garage side, the walls are open and I can see where the electrical wires enter. Is it possible/safe to open the electrical conduit and piggyback an Ethernet cable? It’s a horizontal run, maybe 50 feet.
Edit: thanks for the suggestions. I’ll try the power line adapter and consider fiber.
Hi! This is a pretty basic question, but I generally make small builds and have made my first large build. I’m not sure how to set up the electrical wiring. I have a fusion generator set up on the second floor and have run conduits along the entire second floor (one per floor foundation) so I can have lights in each area of my build. Obviously, it looks ridiculous and it’s taking a lot of resources in my camp. Is there a better way to “power” the whole build but use fewer conduits?
Hi all,
So I bought this house in North Texas built in 1965 and it has an old Federal Pacific main electrical panel - and it is in BAD shape as you'll see in the pictures. It even has a breaker that has come loose from the bus. So it's way past time to change it out. (I wish we could have gotten this included in the repair amendment before we bought the house, but that's a long story and honestly I'm looking forward to taking on this project).
I've done all the research I know to do, and have a decade of experience working around electricity, so I know enough to be dangerous as they say. I'm now a Facility Manager, but I spent 12 years working as a Building Engineer.
Ok anyway. A question or two. What kind of conduit do I need to use between the meter base and the main panel? Can I use PVC? I'm going to have to run new wire as well, and I understand I need to use 2/0 copper. The existing wires won't be quite long enough when I install the new panel. The distance between the meter base and panel is no more than 6 feet, and will be inside the garage wall. The meter base is mounted against the outside of the garage and it is an overhead service.
Grounding. Seeing as this house was built in 1965, there is no ground rod that I can find. I looked outside by the meter, and since it is an overhead service flush mounted against the exterior wall, there is no conduit or #6 copper wire coming out anywhere. However, in the pictures you will find a large copper wire coming off the bus, going back up above the ceiling into the attic, running over a bit, and then dropping into a wall and I can't follow it any more past that. Is that going to be the ground? Do I still need to install the two grounding rods 6 feet apart and all that business? Or is what is already there good enough?
I'd like to think none of this is over my head and that I can do this safely, but I just have these remaining questions. I'v got all the PPE I've used at work, so I know I can do the all the installation properly - I just need to figure out this last little bit.
Pics. https://imgur.com/a/fAKnE2J
Oh, btw, at least for those here in my area - there is lots of talk about pulling your own meter and ONCOR will fine the SHIT out of you. Well, I called them and gave them the run down of what I want to do, and asked what the fee would be for pulling the meter. The lady told me that they only fine the people who don't let them know first. So all you need to do is call them a
... keep reading on reddit ➡hi yall! i am struggling to bend 3/4” emt without kinking it and it’s fucking frustrating. i know my issue is “not enough foot pressure” but i don’t understand what i need to do to make the foot pressure happen. i’m 5’5 and 145 so i’m smaller than most of the guys but certainly not tiny. i understand that good bending is not so much about strength or weight but technique - i just cannot fucking figure the technique out and it’s embarrassing. my jw doesn’t want me backing the conduit up against a wall and that’s the only tip i’ve seen for bending. any targeted muscle workouts i should do or any alternate ways of explaining how to apply foot pressure? all the guys make it look so fucking easy and i’m really not having a good time lol
