SVS SB-1000 $450 - 15% (code "clearance") = $382
for this sub i think it is as good as it gets
I have a small subwoofer connected to an AirPort Express in my bedroom that I use to augment my stereo HomePod mini pair. Airplay to everything works great, but I lose spatial audio support when I include the subwoofer.
A simple AirPlay sub that extends down to 40Hz or so and supports spatial audio and is acoustically matched to the mini would be perfect. Price it at $199.
So i managed to find this old Onkyo subwoofer during last days of 2021, but it has a problem. It's a US grey import and its psu only runs on 110VDC. The gargler is full of stories that tell of burnt out subwoofers because someone just used a plug adapter.
I've got the schematics for the amplifier inside it, i'm just unsure of what to add to convert the 110v circuit to 230v. I'm assuming the rms difference takes care of the voltage difference, so do i just need to buy a full bridge rectifyer and hook it up inbetween the mains and the transformer?
Please help me pixie wranglers!
https://imgur.com/a/8QLD7pNl
Edit: here is the complete circuit diagram from the service manual
Skw770 circuit diagram https://imgur.com/a/YNAEKUu
Edit: alright, ill forsake my idea of getting this done in the oem enclosure and use a step down transformer...
Hi!
I have a pair of floorstanders that, on paper, can go as low as 23 hz. Would a sub make a noticeable difference in bass reproduction when listening to music? I listen to a lot of bass-heavy music like house and trance.
Thanks in advance!
Edit: Link to my speakers
Edit 2: Hey everyone! I'm really thankful for all the responses in this thread. The general opinion seems to be that, in my case, a subwoofer would be a good addition to the speakers. Might also add that I have a 5.0 system with matching center and surround channels, but the music is more important in my opinion. Many thanks!
All this time the subwoofer was not being used to its full potential. After turning the subwoofer all the way up there is more bass than I've ever heard before from this sound system. I played bass heavy songs that I always listened to in the past and it elevated them even more.
TL:DR if I build a subwoofer box behind my metal partition and cut a hole in the partition for the port to enter the front cab. Will I get optimum bass that way?
So I have a weird set up. I have a cargo van. So you would think great! Look at all that space you have to work with. Well wrong. The cargo van has a metal pipe partition behind the seats to keep the cargo area secure which really disturbs any bass set up I’ve tried. The best option was a center console sub box. Now priorities take over and I’ve now got rid of the sub box and replaced it with a shelving unit for more work related storage. Now I have some crap behind the seat box and it’s not doing the sub any justice.. I’m considering making a box directly behind the partition and cutting a hole in the partition where the port can shoot into the front cab area. Will this be ideal? So far anything behind the partition I’ve haven’t had any luck
More info.
It’s a single pioneer champion pro 12. The old 3500w ones. In garage made boxes as close to preferred spec as I can get them
Does anybody on here have a 2.1 setup for listening, preferably towers with subwoofer? What are your thoughts on the setup if so?
I have KRK Rokit 8's but all of the bass goes over to the corner of the room so, when I'm mixing, I have to keep running back and forth across the room between mouse clicks to try and hear the changes being made to the low end. This is slowing down the workflow.
Should I just save up and get the matching KRK subwoofer or is there something cheaper that will be just as good?
Thanks.
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Edit:
Linking to a rough sketch of the room layout, for reference...
https://imgur.com/nd7tTWK
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I'm looking to buy a subwoofer insulation pad but have no clue on which brand and size to choose
Subwoofer case is 12 by 16.5inch
I'm in Canada
Thanks in advance
I was listening to Slow Roll by Boldy James the other day and the bass literally shook the room. I haven't found many other tracks with that kind of bass so let me know if you have any recs!
Evening...
Came across and purchased an amazing 1st Viper over the holiday (Merry Christmas to me...haha), but pulled the trigger knowing the Subwoofer Box / Speaker no longer works.
Note: rest of the speakers do work fine, but you just need to remove the BASS toggle, to take the center one OFFLINE). (If the speaker is on, it buzzes or seems to over re-verberate, if any music comes thru...You Tube only led me to ID that maybe a Cone, Voice Coil, Tear type issue)
For those experts and past Viper owners out there...as they'd NEVER logically reproduce these, but do you dare buy one in USED marketplaces? This was a pretty pristine and OEM clean car with low miles, but does this have any impact to value / collectability down the line.
Can't imagine a slam dunk procuring a 17 year old part either.
Will get some pics when she gets cleaned up from transport!
These were from the Dealer's Posting of the Car and how I found...
I have a 2006 Cayman S - I replaced the head unit to a Sony Android Auto unit - and I have the Bose system. Bose is fine but I would like some extra bass, preferably without ripping out the entire system - so ideally Id like a powered subwoofer that just plugs right in. But I'm not even sure if this is an option.
I was wondering about those under-seat subs that are popular, not sure if they can even go under the seat but perhaps behind it.
If not, what about one of those all in one Sub & Amp combinations - I dont use the trunk space much so happy to have one in the rear.
Has anyone done this and can you give me any advice or suggest what are the best ones?
Item Name/Set Number: VIZIO - 5.1-Channel M-Series Premium Sound Bar with Wireless Subwoofer, Dolby Atmos and DTS:X
Price - $330 + 10% tax = $363 X2 = $725 + $20(escrow) =$745
Escrow for u/Zunger
Shipping: Free
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Will ship international? US only on this one
Timestamp/pics https://imgur.com/a/xbybRB4
Description: Lego_Raffles Charity raffle! In this raffle we're taking the price of everything *2. The base price pays back and the *2 gets donated.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/vizio-5-1-channel-m-series-premium-sound-bar-with-wireless-subwoofer-dolby-atmos-and-dtsx-dark-charcoal/6459736.p?skuId=6459736 This package can be UPGRADED with the winner paying the difference or choosing a different audio product (headphones, receiver etc.). You will be able to work this out with the ZUNG man
These funds will be given to The Children's Heart Foundation https://www.childrensheartfoundation.org/ they specialize in congenital heart defects in newborns and children.
Mods can enter their own raffles for these since they're towards charity and there's sufficient trust.
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... keep reading on reddit ➡I want to get 2 Kicker Q class 8” subs which are both 500 watts RMS, Dual Voice Coil, and 2 ohms.
https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-Q-Class-8-Inch-Square-Subwoofer/dp/B01BOWN6J4
And the amplifier that I want to get is the Rockford P1000x2 which runs 500 watts @ 2ohms x2
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P1000X2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6I02I
Are these two compatible? Its two channels and I could use one channel to power each subwoofer, but when I look online websites say that I should use a monoblock to power both subs. Ive also seen that I should bridge the two channels but why would I need to bridge the channels if they are already split?
Any feedback is appreciated even if it is telling me how stupid I am.
This update is interesting. I understand range improvements, new games, new camera views, etc. would require some programming. But how do you improve sub woofers? Were they always capable of this thump and Tesla was holding out on us for an update 😂?
So my car has a stock 2 ohm Dvc subwoofer . Two sets of wires coming from the stock amp so all four wires are going to the stock sub. Was thinking about upgrading it with like a shallow Rockford Dvc 2 ohm and wiring it up the same way ( two positives and two negatives going to the stock amp)
I want to confirm this is correct?
Also if I hate the 75 watt rms from the stock amp and want to upgrade to a little class D amp with line level inputs I should be good right? I don’t need a 4 ohm Dvc sub?
I’ve been out of the car audio game since eclipse was the big boy so I’m relearning these things
