all these products like seafoam and b-12
but they don't produce results like a simple head gasket leak.
if that's already the best way to clean the piston and spark plugs why not make a fuel additive like that or make it a feature in cars?
I was looking up non-interferrence engines, and noticed that the piston still goes down in the piston chamber to open.
Are there any altnernatives, such as opening above.
https://preview.redd.it/w28h902tsqu71.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4c6a24bc5baa3d42734ad1b6e25c6cbca2060e7b
I did the ECU software update for my sonata a few years ago, so that if knocking happens, the engine goes into a protective limp-home mode instead of grenading.
The sonata then started burning oil excessively starting last year - going through about 2 gallons over the whole year - at a rate of one quart every 400 mi to 800 mi or so.
I went to the dealer earlier this year to start the oil consumption test, and it kept burning more than 1 quart every 1000 mi for the first few tests.
On the 2nd to last test, Hyundai did a combustion chamber clean, which the staff said was Hyundai's new measure to limit unnecessary engine replacements. On the last test after the clean, it burned just under 1 quart for the 1000 mi, and so passed the test.
In this case, what exactly does the combustion chamber clean do to prevent the engine from burning oil excessively, or from seizing?
I was under the impression that combustion chamber cleaning just removes carbon deposits and metal shavings from inside the cylinder, on the piston and the rings?
Wouldn't normal driving eventually lead to the re-build up of carbon and metal deposits and bring me back to the same problem?
Will I have to keep doing combustion chamber cleans every some X miles to stay under the acceptable engine oil burn rate of 1 quart/1000 mi?
https://imgur.com/H6jO3Ff
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wS-DZWwgTU
These are not working reliably in 1.16.4, and by that I mean I've tried everything. They just decide when and where to work. I have a straight to upwards one built in one chunk, and another EXACTLY the same in the next chunk over, not over any boundaries, not rotated, same blocks, and it DOESNT WORK.
Anyone have any method of transporting blocks in 0 tick pulses like this? I have had no luck creating a fix. Thanks for the help.
Wouldn't the piston ring and any part of the piston above the piston ring abrade against the cylinder wall because the piston ring would prevent oil from flowing past it?
I'll start off by saying I don't know all that much about engines. My car (87 Integra) was cranking but not starting. I tried everything I knew at the time and cranked is several times, but nothing. I left it alone for a while and just had the idea to check the spark plugs. I went out and removed the plug wires, and saw what looked like rust in the tube. I got a little worried and started taking out the spark plugs. They are in real bad shape. Totally covered in rust. I got them all out, and I'm sure there must be some rust inside the engine itself. I'm worried that I already caused a bunch of damage from when I was trying to crank it earlier. What can I do about this? If I clean the inside of the engine will it run, or am I going to need to get the whole thing rebuilt?
A friend of mine borrowed my bike for a few days. A basic 200cc cruiser. When I got it back, the carburettor was wrongly configured. I recalibrated it to how I like it and I noticed the fuel screw's head was a bit stripped.
I also noticed the engine makes a slightly different noise. So I want to know:
A) If the fuel screw's tip is broken or something like that.
B) If the tip of the screw breaks off, would it fall into the piston chamber?
C) What happens if it does? How would I take it out?
