What's up disc golf nuts. I lost my 175g R Pro Rhyno and have been having trouble finding a replacement so I'm looking for some input (or maybe a redditor who wants to sell one lol)
I throw the rhyno on <240ft approaches because I don't have to power down due to its natural hatred of being in the air.
If you have any distance-limiting alternative that isn't a pig I'd love to hear it
So back when I was a wee lad of about 12, my older brother showed me how to adjust my brakes using "the paper method". (No idea if this is or was a legit method but it's how I've been doing it for the last 19 years of my life). Basically, you get a piece of paper and slide it in between the inner brake pad and rotor(with a loose caliper), hold the caliper up against it, and tighten. Then after removing the pad find out your paper was too thick or thin and there is still rubbing. Rinse and repeat until no more rubbing.
Then today I was installing my new Hope tech 3 e4 brakes and after deciding to look up some tips, I came across this video in about the first 4 seconds of searching. Utilized this method and my brakes were perfectly adjusted in about 30 seconds. So much wasted time throughout the years. Oh well, lesson learned.
I changed my front brake pads at a bike shop (organic pads, the rotor is "resin only") and the rotor was also cleaned.
The pads were bedded at the shop and they worked pretty well, but when the brakes got cold again (after a few days when I took the bike for a ride) they had no braking power.
Here is what I noticed while riding: -The brakes before a ride have NO braking power and they vibrate a lot. -After a few agressive brakes (going from 50 to 20 kph on a slope with only the front brakes in action) they gradualy stop vibrating and start braking very good. -Even if they get cold, they keep their braking power the whole day, but the next day they get "reset" and I need to repeat the whole process to make them work again.
Hi!
Currently have I think a tektro rim brake, and noticed how awful the brakes are. Not sure if it's because of the brand or rim brakes are generally bad. Should I switch to disc instead or upgrade to 105 rim brakes? Reason for 105 is, my GS is currently Tiagra and will upgrade to 105 if ever the upgrade is worth it.
I just upgraded from a 2011 Specialized Camber Comp with Custom Avid Elixir R SL brakes to a 2021 Kona Process X DL with SRAM Code RSC brakes.
I feel like the AVID's are far more powerful, but all the numbers/spec's say otherwise. I can get the AVID's to lock-up at the slightest trigger pull; the RSC's will lock-up but not nearly as fast. The RSC's will definitely stop me, but I like the ability to lock up the rear tire on command, quickly, should I need to.
I'm not an expert but have/had maintained quite a few bikes.
I've re-bled the RSC's which had no impact. I adjusted the caliper position, no dice. Obviously, I've played with the contact point adjustment. I did not bed in the pads initially on the RSC's. I got the bike from a mtn bike specific shop who by all accounts are very reputable. I waited while they supposedly bed them in. I watched the guy ride the bike up and down the lot doing so. I've had the same shop redo my shocks, true a few rims, and various other repairs, which have all been perfect.
Anyone have any input? Do the RSC's feel different simply because they are a different brake system? Maybe the pads were not bedded in correctly? Are the AVID's that much better? I feel like new brakes should be significantly stronger than 10 year old brake system with 5 year old pads.
Love that I found this community. Thanks everyone!
Looking to upgrade my bike to something more suited to riding rough gravel and I know I would want 650b, but there seems to be a real lack of bikes that come standard with them.
I thought this Salsa Journeyman Apex was the perfect bike, but I don't trust the mechanical disc brakes. I have some on my bike right now and they are borderline dangerous on any descents beyond 20 sec.
Edit: added link to the Salsa
I'm looking to make my first tri bike purchase, specifically something with a great aero & light frame, electronic groupset and carbon wheels. My LBS has a past season (new, unused) Argon 18 E-119 Tri with rim brakes. It also comes with Ultegra Di2 and some entry-level carbon wheels (Mavic Cosmic Elite UST). It was US $6500 new but is now discounted to $5000. A new Argon 18 E-119 Tri+ Disc with disc brakes is $8500 (SRAM Force eTap, Hunt 34 alloy wheels). But I think it's possible to find a comparable bike to the rim brake Argon for $6000 - $7000, depending on the manufacturer; Canyon, Cervelo, and BMC have bikes in the range with electronic groupsets, carbon wheels and hydraulic disc brakes.
Is it worth investing in a former top end rim brake bike at a discount? I use the word invest because I want the bike for awhile and don't want to spend much on upgrades, except possibly on different wheel sets for different races. I initially thought the rim brake bike was a good deal, but I'm concerned I'll upgrade sooner, resale value will be low, and rim brake wheelsets will eventually become scarce. However, with the current bike shortage I have very few choices when it comes to available bikes; my LBS is one of the largest tri bike dealers in the US and even they have slim pickings. Canyon also seems to have hopeless availability.
Hi, I'm looking for a new bike and wonder if I should go with a new mid-range bike with disc brakes (like a Ultimate CF SL 8) or a older used top class bike with rim brakes (like a Tarmac SL5).
I use it mainly for 50-100km fun rides and once a year for a grand fondo
What would you choose? Top frame or disc brakes?
For those who have experienced it, which bike will finish say a particular segment with very fast corners and speed-shedding hairpins faster? Does the disc's late braking advantage give it the edge?
Hi, does anyone have any advice on a reasonably priced set of flat bar levers and callipers for my next project?
Hello guys my current bike (29er bmx) has rim brakes and I’m constantly having to readjust them because they’re always shifting too far to one side giving me resistance when I peddle. I mainly cruise and do wheelies. I’m thinking of getting a 29er with disc brakes because I hear they are better, is this true?
I removed a suspension fork and install the original rigid fork on my Surly Karate Monkey. The fork had never been mounted and so I took it to a shop to have the IS mounts faced. I then installed the fork, the IS to Post Mount Adapter, the (hydraulic) caliper and the wheel. Now there seems to be some contact between the pads and the rotor. I've tried adjusting it several times, and after a while, it starts to sing. I can tap the brake lever and it will stop for a while. It also appears that the wheel isn't spinning quite as freely as it should, which makes sense since I've clearly got some friction. Going for a ride, I tried to "seat" the pads a few times to see if that was the issue, but it didn't seem to make any difference.
My questions are... Do I need to bleed the brakes maybe? There's no play in the lever and it all feels nice and firm, but I'm wondering if possibly in rerouting the brake hose, there's enough additional pressure in there now to cause the issue.
Should I try pushing the caliper pots all the way back in then try adjusting the brakes? I assumed since it's the same caliper, pads, and rotor that the spacing would be sufficient, but maybe that's not a reasonable assumption.
It seems pretty obvious that the chances of getting the pads and the rotor lined back up EXACTLY how they were with the old fork is not likely. So, is this something that just needs to re-seat? Do I need to replace pads and/or rotors?
Is there something else stupid I'm missing?
TIA!!
Hi folks,
I have a 1986 AW11 Toyota MR2 and i need to change brake discs and pads soon. The car is completely stock and i want to slowly upgrade her for doing a road/track project. So, with new stainless Steel brakelines, i need some advices or tips for choose brake discs & pads. I don't want to change callipers
Sorry if my english isn't perfect, french guy here with same passion for midship runabout !
Thanks guys !
I'm doing a resto-mod on my 1975 cb200t. The front brake just threw me for a loop. It's the disc brake system, and it was very rusty internally. So, i soaked it in rust remover for a few days and it did great! Unfortunately, as i was cleaning it out, i noticed a bunch of bearing rollers in the bottom of the pan and the extender that should keep the pad a specific distance from the rotor has lost its ratcheting.
Does anyone know where i can find new or used internals, or a brake rebuild kit? All i can find are the housing bodies without internals or the pads. I would also be interested if anyone has successfully done a hydraulic brake upgrade. Help please!!
Just got my Kickr Core and I’m getting ready to set it up, I have a gravel bike w disc brakes so I was wondering if I should be using spacers every time I take the wheel off for trainer sessions? I’m still learning a lot so this thought hadn’t occurred to me until recently!
I did a search and surprising this question hasn't really ben asked very much, at least in this sub. I know the industry is moving towards disc, and I'm an advocate for disc brakes for certain applications like wet, dirt, touring, etc. However, I can't help but feel that the industry peaked like 8 years ago with 11 speed, and now it's just peddling new tech just to push bike sales (eg. proprietary stems, seat posts, bottom brackets, hidden cables).
I reminisce of the days when I was racing my 2006 felt f3C in 2018, and having the peace of mind to thrash that thing around without a worry in the world, and being able to replace anything on that bike in 15 minutes. That's not going to happen today. One thing I did really hate about rim brakes was the carbon braking surface, but that's really a situation reserved for races. and with the money you save with rim brake bikes, you can easily get a pair of decent aluminum clinchers for training/travel, at the cost of switching out brake pads every so often. So at the end of the day, rim brakes let you have a cheaper, lighter road bike that's easier to work on, and perform just as well, if not better than disc brake road bikes >95% of the time (when it's not raining).
fwiw, my main bike is a giant tcx which is my do it all bike for dirt and road. I was going to build another fast bike that's lighter than the tcx, and right now, I'm having a hard time justifying building a disc brake just because it's "future proof". It seems like a fair number of people still prefer rim brakes, and not due to lack of awareness or aversion from innovation. curious to get others thoughts on this.
Hello!
With the ne Shimano groupset that just came out, we got to see a claimed 10% increase in pad clearence with the new 8170 disc brake calipers.
Do you think 10% will make any difference? Would you get less rubbing if you change only the calipers from the Ultegra r8000 to the new r8100 without changing the levers and the rotors? Also, it will work as intended with the older version of levers that doesn't have servo-wave?
Thanks!
I have my eye on a second-hand 2014 touring bike fitted with Avid BB-5 mechanical disc brakes. I have never owned a bike fitted with disc brakes, so this is new to me. Obviously, I'd like to buy a bike that can be easily repaired/upgraded when the time comes. Have there been any significant changes/trends in the market in the last five years or so that might render decade-old disc brakes irrelevant?
