A list of puns related to "Abrasive Material"
So I've only listened to CMIYGL, Igor, Flower Boy and Wolf so far, with a few scattered tracks elsewhere. And I genuinely hate most of his jazzier, softer, soul-influenced stuff - so most of Flower Boy and Igor, think See You Again, A Boy Is A Gun, Boredom, November, Glitter - because I don't particularly think he can write good chord changes, and I don't love his introspective side. There are only two 'softer' Tyler songs I care for - Colossus and Wilshire, because they are comparatively simple and they're repetitive as all hell. But oh my FUCKING god I adore his abrasive, hardcore, experimental stuff.
Here's the list of Tyler songs that I've heard that I adore:
A couple others, like Pigs and Juggernaut, are good too, but they're a little slow and don't go hard enough.
I need more songs like these. I want no jazzy anything (hell, fuck chord changes at ALL if possible), no soulfulness, no introspection, no delicate copouts mid-song. I want songs that are pure, emotionally bankrupt chaos, and are abrasive as hell. Whether they're from Tyler or from other artists.
I know I'm the anti-Tyler fan, lol. But this is the only material of his I can get into.
I am looking for a way to coat nylon mono filament with abrasive grit.
Can anyone suggest a suitable process for this? I've thought about using adhesive but not sure what kind of adhesive will work best for this, superglue or epoxy adhesive.
The aim is to use abrasive line for cutting soft material like brass or aluminium thin wire. Ofc there are better ways to cut thin wires but for this experiment I must use abrasive + plastic composite.
I have a MK3s and Iβm wanting to start printing abrasive materials like carbon fiber filled nylon. I know a hardened steel nozzle is needed for those materials and I was about to buy one from filastruder or printedsolid and saw the NozzleX. Is it a good nozzle and worth buying to print everything from PLA to abrasives? Or has anyone found its better to use the X over hardened steel for just abrasives and switch back to the stock brass for everything else? Seems nice to not have to keep swapping nozzles but if itβs better to do so for a dedicated abrasives nozzle I will.
Secondly, do you guys recommend filastruder over printedsolid or vice versa? I know theyβre both excellent, just curious about shipping times to east coast.
Hi @ll!
After having worked with my Prusa for a while, I would now also like to print abrasive materials, namely
-woodfill
-carbonfill
-metalfill
filaments.
Now, I know the stock Prusa nozzle is incapable of handling these abrasive filaments and that's why im looking for the best alternative nozzle. However, there's way too many available:
-Olson Ruby Nozzle
-E3D Nozzle-X
-Titanium Nozzle
-Spool3D Tungsten Carbide Nozzle
...your recommendation?
I would be glad if you could help me pick one of these nozzles to "upgrade" my hitherto completely stock Mk3S so I can print with abrasive filaments properly.
Thanks for your time!
Cheers Temperche
Hello I am female and Iβm jus now starting to ride motorcycles. One thing I donβt like is how womenβs motorcycle clothes are, and how expensive the nice looking ones are. Plus, itβs hot as fuck here in Texas most of the year. I canβt wear leather every day.
They either shrink it and pink it (gross) or they try to make you look like some fucking female anime antagonist.
One thing I thought about doing is getting old jean jackets and sewing Kevlar cloth into the inside of the jacket and sewing pockets in for foam pads.
Is stuff like this feasible? Am I doomed to an eternity of crusty biker bitch wear? Is making motorcycle gear for other young women who want to be protected and not look like an absolute tool completely impossible without bazillions of dollars?
We do abrasive blasting as part of one of our proceses. We use a high 220 alumina grit and have certain areas that require blasting and other areas that do not.
Currently we use tape and rubber masks to cover these areas but this can be labour intensive. I was wondering if there is a hard material resistant to high abrasive grit we could use to protect these areas.
Thanks
My company has fixtures that hold parts and protect areas of the parts from being blasted while letting certain sections get hit. I am looking at changing the material, right now we use A-2 tool steel, this is expensive material, and hard to machine. What properties would I look for in a material to withstand blasting with 16 grit aluminum oxide? Would it have to be hard, or tough, I have seen some materials that claim abrasion resistance, but it is for scratches. Someone that I spoke with suggested a hard polyurethane.
The area we blast is all under .5". I was also wondering if instead of straight 90Β° corners if putting a 45Β° chamfer would be helpful, or if that is just removing the material faster.
Just something that popped in my head somewhere during the season and forgot to ask earlier.
I have a MK3 coming in the mail in a few weeks and I do want to print with abrasive materials, particularly GITD/luminous PLA to start before getting into more exotic filaments.
I know the standard brass nozzle on there will get destroyed by GITD...
I'm wondering if it's better to simply buy a E3D hardened steel nozzle, or to spring for the Olsson Ruby nozzle? I've heard from a friend that they saw some bad reviews on the ruby, but most of what I see is glowing positive reviews.
Wanted to get some more input on this so I can order whichever one you guys like and have it ready for day one.
Thanks!
Hoping to draw on the vast collection of experience here to get me started on a project.
Trying to improve life of tooling in a line that pulverizes an abrasive-containing material. Unfortunately I can't share too many details (not my decision to make), but let's say it's a wood pulverizer (crushing, not cutting) that would have to survive a lot of sand going through it (small highly abrasive particles), as well as a stone or nail running through it every now or then.
I have a feeling if I can find out what is used in the mining industry for tooling that pulverizes/crushes ore, it will work for me. I have a feeling high cobalt tungsten carbide would work, but hoping for something that'd be easier to try.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Edit: Additional details...
I'm asking because I'm wondering about fountain pen nibs and paper they rub on.
most nibs are either stainless steel or iridium(I doubt that's common anymore these days ). and It's always been a question for me overall.
as far as I'm aware, in case of stones and water, the minerals are much harder or the same hardness, and in case of stairs that are used too often, shoes have dirt/grime/stone particles or sands on them.
There's this saying that after a year or so of use a pen will self-smooth to the shape to how you hold you pen, it sounds like a myth to me however, Tempted to tape paper to a drill and try! but those nibs are hard to come by in my country :s
I was moving building sand at work and it wasn't that bad when it was dry bit when it started raining the sand became more abrasive and rough to the touch. Why is this?
At work, we build a machine that stores the abrasive material that goes into frack water. It comes out of bins onto a conveyor and gets ejected from a boom in the rear.
Over time, the piece of metal that the sand hits as it comes off the conveyor gets eaten through. I was wondering if there was a way to prevent this? Or if not, what kind of consumable material could I cover this section of metal with?
Naturally one uses these a lot the volume / skip and back buttons and they get polished rather quickly which sucks. At least they get greasy.
What is a good idea for a sticker that won't get fucked in the long run due to heat and use?
Vinyls will obviously destroy whatever they are put on if its delicate. So I was thinking some sort of plastic kind like the ones we use for our phones screens.
I have a gold ring that I purchased as "brushed gold". After a few months, it becomes shiny--I assume from rubbing against all sorts of things over time. Therefore I brush it lightly with a fine-grain emery paper to restore the brushed look every once in a while.
I'm assuming that with each brushing I am removing microscopic bits of gold from my ring but at the same time I wonder if perhaps all I am doing is just re-arranging the molecules rather than actually removing them?
I don't ever see gold dust or particles falling from the ring or staying on the paper (as I would with, say, wood or softer materials).
So, I'd love to know what's happening to my ring that my eyes might not be seeing?
Thanks!
Hi all!
Iβm renting a room and my landlady is nice enough to let me redecorate, as long as I paint everything light again when I leave.
Itβs currently cream. I want to paint the ceiling, skirting boards (wood), and door (MDF? She called the material βplasticβ - it looks like wood) a dark colour, overlaid with a clear coat with glitter added to the mix. I also might want to paint the radiator (standard British white one currently).
I read that sanding surfaces should provide a key for paint to adhere to. Is this true for all the above materials, or is a different type of prep needed? What about after Iβm done, when I move out - can I pick a specific type of top coat that will be easy to paint over? (Since itβs a dark base as well, Iβm worried that the double whammy of that + a hard clear coat will make it exceptionally hard to cover up.)
Also, do I need separate types of primer for each of these types of materials?
Finally - Iβm not sure what the door is made of, but if itβs MDF, I read that the dust is extremely toxic. In these days where high quality masks/respirators are hard to find, should I be worrying about this or is a cloth mask OK?
Thanks for helping out this newbie, everyone!
I want to have material that is more abrasion resistant than your average shirt. I looked into Kevlar and Cordura, but canβt find any blanks to put my designs on. Do you guys have any ideas? And also would cut proof clothing work too?
Say you have a 2 multi lugged surfaces that experience pressure of around 55,000 psi repeatedly. They interlock with each other and unlock rather violently. One locking surface is hard steel coated in nickel boron (NiB) and the other surface is a harder steel but has the option of being coated in nickel Teflon (NP3), nickel boron (NiB) or a nitride treatment. Which of these 3 surface materials/treatments would make for a good wear resistant, lubricious, durable combination with the Nickel boron locking surface?
So I've only listened to CMIYGL, Igor, Flower Boy and Wolf so far, with a few scattered tracks elsewhere. And I genuinely hate most of his jazzier, softer, soul-influenced stuff - so most of Flower Boy and Igor, think See You Again, A Boy Is A Gun, Boredom, November, Glitter - because I don't particularly think he can write good chord changes, and I don't love his introspective side. There are only two 'softer' Tyler songs I care for - Colossus and Wilshire, because they are comparatively simple and they're repetitive as all hell. But oh my FUCKING god I adore his abrasive, hardcore, experimental stuff.
Here's the list of Tyler songs that I've heard that I adore:
A couple others, like Pigs and Juggernaut, are good too, but they're a little slow and don't go hard enough.
I need more songs like these - of the Tyler that I haven't checked out, what should I listen to? Even if it's obscure b-sides, unreleased tracks or stuff from his other projects. I want no jazzy anything (hell, fuck chord changes at ALL if possible), no soulfulness, no introspection, no delicate copouts mid-song. I want songs of his that are pure, emotionally bankrupt chaos, and are abrasive as hell.
If you know of any other hip hop songs by other artists that I'd like, hit me up.
I know I'm the anti-Tyler fan, lol. But this is the only material of his I can get into.
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