Good day, fellow fountainpen enthusiasts! Well, the questions are already written in my penned letter to you all, but I can write it here also to make it more clear:
Is this truly what's meant with a fine nib? I might have to get an Extra Fine nib in the future in that case, since the Parker Sonnet's one is quite thick. Still writes well, just way thicker than I had imagined. I tried writing with the backside of the nib and it writes more like I wanted it to then.
And my most important question is this: Is there any way to fix a stubborn dry start to your fountain pen? I tried cleaning the nib with warm water and flushed it out with my converter (in a glass of water) and while it improved the situation the dry starts still happen regularly. It's mainly the upstrokes that are problematic but sometimes I can't write dots and (very rarely) downstrokes either. If this problem persists I thought I might change it in for a new one. Except for the dry starts I really enjoy writing with this pen. :o)
Edit: I just realised it has an issue with downstrokes too... It's mainly evident whenever I'm making an exclamation point, I normally always have to re-do those too. I guess the pen just has an issue with dry starts in general and as most letters begin with an upstroke, that's what I thought it mainly struggled with!
https://preview.redd.it/qt7a1wqnvub81.jpg?width=3468&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ddbb9278b8beb318aeb66e212171ecfc145b257c
I have heard people tell me that upstroking mainly is bad, because you can play it faster downward, personally I upstroke faster but is this true?
I'm considering modifying my box navies with slightly lighter springs as I find them too be to heavy for extended usage, I opted for for them as some users have been reporting that the box jades have an issue with sluggish upstrokes as there using a weaker spring type. From your experiences is this still an issue with box jades or should I play it safe and opt for slightly heaver springs than the jades? Recommendations for springs and lubricant for the springs is greatly appreciated.
Box Jade
Box Navy
I bought this pen maybe 2 weeks ago from cult pens and I inked it but it feels scratchy, more so on upstrokes. This is different from the usual feedback feeling you get from sailor pgs pens, so it's not feeback I think. I also have a pilot custom 74, kakuno and a Twsbi 580alr in ef and they don't have this problem. I actually cringed the first time I wrote with it cuz I thought the paper was tearing which it doesn't, just feels like it. Should I send it and replace it? I actually came across a post that this guy said he sent it back and got another one that was scratchy. Are Pelikan pens like this or can I do something to smoothen the pen?
Edit: should've mentioned I looked with a loupe and the tines don't seem to be misaligned. I looked from both sides of the pen and upside down, all angles. Seems to be ok. No baby bottom either from what I can tell
I checked the tines, they are aligned. Can anyone suggest what I could do to make it better as it is a gold nib and should write perfectly
I'm trying to make holy bobas with 62g u4t springs. I tried cherry picking housings and very few (like <20%) are actually compatible and don't stick. Is 62g too light or do I just need to lube it?
This "myth" keeps showing up in forums and youtube videos, with someone saying "a study" proves that pulling the pedal upwards makes no difference while cycling. But not a single person references the scientific paper properly. To the point I'm beginning to think it could actually be false information, or at least misinterpretation of some study.
The best I've got so far is that the author is a Jeffrey P. Broker, who's a Biomechanics professor at the University of Colorado. I've read a couple abstracts and an entire article of his, but could not find any mention of such myth.
I have a problem with my Pilot Custom 912. It is very smooth when I write downstroke, flex but whenI have to do an upstroke - it is very scratchy! I cringe everytime it happens. I checked the nib for misaligned tines but they are okay. Looked at every angle and nothing. What am I doing wrong? Is is only designed for downstroke handwriting?
Hey all,
So, I have lubed and clipped cherry stabs, foam in my spacebar, and I even spring swapped my tactile switch down to 58g (tried both taros and Oreos for this, since pandas don’t work at that spring weight) but even with all of these basic mods, my spacebar upstroke is still unreasonably louder than all my other keys. Recording a sound test and playing it back showcased just how much the spacebars’ upstroke was taking over the sound profile.
The only thing I haven’t tried are o-rings or bandaid mods, but as far as I can tell those really only effect the downstroke/ bottom out.
It could just be the aluminum plate and the fact that it’s a plate mount stab. This is my only plate mount board at the moment, so I didn’t have anything else to compare it to since the others are pcb mount stabs.
Any ideas?
I have a thick guitar pick and whenever I strum an upstroke, the first sting is usually played too loud compared to the rest . Whenever I strum a downstroke I would usually twist my wrist so that the guitar pick is facing the direction away from the strings. Should I do the same when strumming upstrokes? Because being conscious about your strumming form is so tedious especially twisting the wrist. So counter intuitive. And I heard somewhere in youtube that "scooping" is not necessary. I can't remember if twisting is advised.
one view: https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/fitness-and-training/stop-pulling-up-on-your-pedals/
> In 1997, French researchers placed force transducers onto the pedals of a group of cyclists, measuring the force going though the pedal at every two degrees of the pedal stroke. They found that the downstroke produced ‘positive torque’, with ‘negative torque’ being produced through the back of the pedal stroke (an ‘uplift’). However the surprising result was when they removed the cyclist’s toe clips… and the results remained the same*.
other view: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1504/what-is-the-point-of-pedal-straps
> It allows you to pull up as well as down, increasing the efficiency of your pedaling. This is something that you need to work at to get full effect from, as it is not a natural motion to most people. In Cadel Evans' book "Close to Flying" there is talk of a bike he uses for training that has a "freewheel" mechanism for the cranks which forces you to practice lifting the pedals as well as pushing them.
so idk if i should be trying to learn to pull up on my pedals with 1 foot while the other pushes down, and to try and get a completely circular pedal cycle, or if its a waste of effort
So I've been learning American Life by Primus, and so far I have the triplet hammer-ons, downstroke, and general groove down.
However, my upstroke is bad and often muddy, cause the pads of my fingers tend to hit the strings inconsistently. How do i position my hands and fingers while strumming to get a cleaner crisper sound? The bass strumming tutorials I've seen just gloss over this. Any help is appreciated!
I want to isolate the downstroke sounds and so I need to silence the upstroke. I know silent stems have dampeners on the tops of the slider but I want to keep the downstroke still. Would adding krytox where those dampeners would be help? Any tips or ideas would be appreciated!
Hi all, I just bought my first pelikan gold nib, an EF, and it writes dry on the upstroke. I am wondering if this is common amongst the gold nibs or is it because I went with the EF that it is performing this way? I compared it to my pelikan fine steel nib and the upstroke on the steel nib is not so dry in comparison. Thank you in advance for any feedback.
I realised recently, I massively favour an upstroke on all solos, double stops, riffs, anything except strumming. I don’t know why, it’s something that’s developed naturally (I also hold the pick with 2 fingers FWIW).
It doesn’t particularly inconvenience me, I rarely feel held back by it, but is it “wrong”? And is it something that is worth the effort of correcting? Or is it just my own particular style and as valid as any other technique?
Hi guys,
I received Kaweco Student with a med Gold nib as a gift. I really like it, but it seems to have issues on the upstroke. The ink that’s currently in there is the Noodler’s Bullet Black.
I can’t seem to identify any damage or unevenness to the nib. Could it be the ink? I cleaned and repositioned the nib a few times, but it seems to be the same every time. Or does anyone know of there is an issue, in general, with Kaweco nibs?
Bonus marks: If, I were to replace the nib, do you have any recommendations?
Has anyone experienced a clank/click/thud on the upstroke? It first started only on a higher resistance, but now it’s constant with every peddle stroke. The bike is only a few months old so I plan to call the 800 number tomorrow, but I was just curious if this was a common problem or not.
Edit: I should mention it’s only the right peddle
Edit 2: Problem solved! It was a loose pedal.
