I'm building a drone for some sort of project. I have done everything and I can fly it both rc manuel and autonomously with Navio controller.
What project rules wants me that "you have to use emergency button that break circuit under 2 seconds and some sort of fuse which has max amper rating is total ESC ampere rating + %10 "
I have an idea about what kind of emergency button. What I'm wonder is, as title says, does Navio Power Module have inner fuse that breaks circuit when circuit draws above it's max rating?
It's written in seller webpage:
Supports LiPo batteries up to 6S Max current sensing: 60 A* Switching regulator output: 5.3 V 2.25 A 6-pos DF13 cable for connection to Navio2 power port
*power module can sense current up to 90A if different connectors are used (XT60 connectors allow for 60 A max)
What does exactly meaning of 'max current sensing' ? My dummy electrical understanding, it's just kind of measurement but, Not an active circuit device like capable of cutting the circuit.
If I'm true, what kind of fuse is used for this situations? Can I use cartridge fuse? I have 4 ESC(Skywalker 30A) that means roughly (4x30A) + %10 = 130A. Does Cartridge fuses have these ratings?
I'm newbie, so I'm sorry if I'm talking/asking something totally out of context. Thanks for your answers.
Just watched Mike Vapes review on this one on Youtube, awesome looking mod but im slightly confused about the safety fuse, if it blows why wont the battery under the atomiser still operate and continue discharging in the event of a load exceeding 37A? Without the second battery it has a circuit the same as the original Clutch.
Am i missing something?
Mine was 13 amp, it should have been 3 amp. Just swap it out for a 3 amp.
I'm not sure if other countries use fuses, but if you do, please check it's correct for the voltage of your country. 240/220v should be 3 amp, 110v should be 5 amp
I did the fuse bypass mod to enable my fog lights to turn on without the headlights being on.
Quick version - If I have two fuses on the same line, the lower rating fuse should trip first, making the rating of the second fuse irrelevant, correct?
If you are not familiar, the fuse bypass just connects the fog fuse to the tail lamp fuse to trick it. In order to do this, I put the fog light fuse 15A into the lower slot of the bypass, and the tail lamp fuse 10A into the upper slot of the bypass. The bypass itself plugs into the fog light slot.
But now I have to connect the spade connector to the tail light fuse slot. I had no spare fuses lying around, but my truck has a slot labeled Spare with a 30A fuse. I used that 30A fuse in the tail lamp slot to hold the spade connector.
So my question is - even though the 30A fuse is in the taillight slot, the power still has to run through the 10A fuse further along in the fuse bypass, so it should still trip safely if it has to correct? Or should I remove it and get another 10A fuse for both those slots?
https://preview.redd.it/d7cjl5zfcsx41.jpg?width=897&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=45b5902063840a1a8745865302dda7ba6455eaaf
This is (china) 3d printer related. I recently had a ground wire melt from a faulty fan as mentioned here.
https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/75u6ej/need_an_expert_ground_wire_only_melt_from_3d/
And you guys pointed me to the cause. I did my build exactly as the community and tevo tells us. What i did different was used a 40mm fan from aliexpress that was bunk.
So... I fused my machine with fuse blocks. I properly secured and terminated everything. Even added extra strain relief on wires just in case. Been running it to death again and all is well. If it has lots of amperage and moving wires. I fused it. Hell i might even fuse the motors since the fuse block is there already. I also added an external mosfet to give the board that was feeding the heat bed a break.
But I also fused the ground going to the hotend, bed and fan. If i had a 500 to 1 amp fuse on the fans ground before it would have saved my ass and that was my reasoning. So I fused it. Someone just told me I should not do that and im just waiting for deadly shock to happen. Without bringing up my own pros and con speculation.......
Advice on the matter? These things really need to be fused and nobody is doing it. Many of the china machines ship with LED power supplies without termination connectors while being wide open and exposed.
Hi electricians!
Thanks so much for reading. I just had a question about the fuse box in my apartment. While the apartment is new to me (I just moved in about a month ago), the fuse box in my apartment is very old. In fact, it uses old “lightbulb like” fuses (can you tell my lack of electrical knowledge by my descriptor?) , the likes of which I’ve never seen before. Here’s an image:
https://imgur.com/gallery/cvcUkXS
I first noticed it when I had the electricity in my kitchen go out. I searched endlessly for a switch to flip and couldn’t find one anywhere! My landlord had to come over and show me the fuse box and he replaced the fuse.
Since then, my fuse has blown another time. I replaced it myself this time, being sure to only use the amp amount of 15 because that was what the old fuse was. I’ve been doing some research online, and it seems like fuses like this are perfectly safe as long as they’re not overloaded. However, I was hoping that somebody here could help explain it to me so I can feel less paranoid? I had a fire in my home as a kid and even though it wasn’t caused by wiring I am still super paranoid about electrical fires. My landlord doesn’t seem concerned (I told him that the power blew again). Are there any precautions I should take?
Thanks so much!
Does anyone have links to share to learn more about DIY lights safety practices? I am surprised how little information is available about this.
Here's a post from RollItUp forum that sums it up well:
> I'd like to hear a little about safety from the manufacturers. So far, nobody, including growmau5, has discussed using circuit or thermal protecting fuses on the dc side of the build. > > Some of these drivers will put out 200+ v dc at almost 3 amps. That will seriously put a hurt on you if you if you touch the wrong lead, and you can pop your entire array if wired in parallel and blow a board. And that doesn't even address thermal runaway issues on drivers. > > So how about it guys? You are selling products to noobs and giving advice to use tissue damage level voltages. How about a little safety love?
This disclaimer from LEDGardener.com acknowledges the risks involved with DIY LED:
> WARNING: The work involved with building your own LED lights is dangerous. Voltage and current levels are often high enough to cause injury or even death. ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW INSTRUCTION MANUALS AND SAFETY WARNINGS. If you aren’t equipped with sufficient experience and knowledge, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DO THE ELECTRICAL WORK YOURSELF. Instead, enlist the help of a qualified electrician and ALWAYS follow electrical code requirements specific to your area.
Some manufacturers like HLG are recommending to add fuses on every quantum board. But it's hard to find a tutorial to learn more about this and understand how and where to install the fuses and what type of fuse.
> THERMAL RUNAWAY IN PARALLEL WIRED BOARDS > As temps go up the Vf of diodes go down. When Vf does down the diode is able to pull more current. This can cause thermal runnaway in parallel boards circuits if 1 or more boards fail or get disconnected. > > HOW TO AVOID RUNAWAY: > 1) Use a Meanwell Type A driver if you wire Boards in parallel. Type A driver 54V or under have a Vf adjustment on driver. You can fine tune to limit the voltage. A voltage set at 53V or 53.5V instead of 54V can help avoid runaway. > (...) > 3) Use fuse for each board or thermal cutoff switch.
Some people are also suggesting to add a ground to the frame. Any info about this?
I've been watching a ton of videos on how fuses and circuit breakers work (Which are nothing short of technological marvels with the solenoids and differing metals that expand as excess heat rises), but I've yet to find a good explanation as to the differences in them when you want to incorporate them into a smaller scale circuit(like an electronics circuit).
Can anyone explain why I'd want to use one vs the other? Not only price/convenience, but also reliability and the safety factor.
Thank you very much for your time and patience.
Edit: Manners.
in front of our children. And he finally listen to me when I said he needs to be an example for children, to teach them about responsibility. He just ignored everything before, fhe fact that electricity can mess up heart for good. I feel like I'm dealing with a huge, dumb baby, and not adult.
So I just ordered a SMOKTECH Magneto with a couple of 18650 batteries (unprotected). After I ordered, I read about a Vape Safety Fuse and how you kinda want those when you're using a MOD with these batteries... and then I read how they won't fit in a Magneto when you're using 18650 batteries. What do I do? Should I try to change my order to go for a smaller 18500 battery and get a vape safe fuse somewhere, or is it relatively safe to use it without?
Thanks in advance.
Oh by the way, I plan on using this combined with a U-DCT tank with 1,5 ohm cartomizers.
How many of you use safety fuses in your Mods? Was thinking of getting one but not really sure it's necessary and wanted to check with you all first. Thanks.
