We are buying supplies for our fuse testing setup. Does anyone have suggestions as to how I can connect our thin 0.3 mm thick Nickel strip (our designed fuse) to our current source? Our max planned current level is 180 A for the 0.05 sec < t < 0.15 sec level.
I was thinking of using alligator clips https://ae.rsdelivers.com/product/mueller-electric/bu-41a-0/mueller-electric-crocodile-clip-copper-plated-200a/8884168. But anything rated for a high ampacity seems like it is meant for battery jumper cables, and I think those will be too strong that they would break the nickel.
https://preview.redd.it/v43er0otxna81.png?width=550&format=png&auto=webp&s=4a1cecfa9c5dd559e7520948d1a0e715ef12f7ad
So we decided to try aluminum to build our fuses (we cannot find Nickel 200 sheets in the UAE). Bought a 0.3 mm Al sheet and went to a workshop where they tried to spot weld it onto an 18650 cell but the sheet would just come right off.
The spot welder they had was a SUNKKO 787A. Have any of you made fuses with aluminum? Were you able to spot weld them? If so, how thick were your fuses, what were your spot welder's specs, and could you recommend any?
The fusible link on my 2012 is350 blew a while back. The link that blew was the 125A fusible link for the alternator. I have now tested my alternator. It is working fine. The alternator puts out 14.2 V DC and 0.02V AC under load, The resistance across from the positive to the negative terminal is infinity one way, and 560 ohms the other. I bought a replacement used alternator for $50 and it has identical readings so as far as I can tell it is not the alternator. That leaves the question of what caused the fusible link to blow. Can anyone help me diagnose this. Thanks in advance
Here's some additional information that maybe relevant.
The car has only 30K miles on it and everything else is in mint condition,
The fusible link blew when my wife was reversing out of the garage. The car has not been jumped backwards.
The battery currently puts out 12.2 volts at no load. To me this indicates that it is 60% charged all the cells are working fine,(https://www.rebel-cell.com/knowledge-base/the-discharge-and-capacity-of-batteries/)
There was some body work done on the car 2 years back. The replaced a door that got damaged. They also changed out two fog lights that were damaged and the right wheel well fender liner.
Hello all. I Have been blindly trawling through YouTube vids then realized of course there would be a subreddit offering advice.
I replaced my accessory belt tensioner on Sunday on my 2007 aurion (v6 Camry/Avalon for you guys in the states). Because I’m a bloody bell end though I didn’t disconnect the battery. I had to remove the alternator to get to the tensioner and although the car has been running fine since with no warning lights etc I noticed today that the indicator well on the battery indicates that the battery needs charging.
Would I be right in guessing that I’ve more likely blown the 120A fuse in the link block assembly that damaged the alternator itself? Any tips are very welcome.
At least I’ll never forget to remove the negative lead again.
Hi!
I posted earlier about a wiring harness connector that was going bad. A friend pointed out it's actually a fusible link. It goes from my positive battery terminal to 4 wires that power my lights, cool my engine, and two other wires I'm not certain of. I know the two because that's what's going wrong and when I wiggle the piece around it works until I hit a bump in the road.
This is a 1982 Datsun diesel pickup and the part is completely unavailable.
I've read that people replace these fusible links with resettable circuit breakers to get by. Is this the best solution? What do I need to know in order to set this up? I can't find any documentation on the schematic.
I'm not an electrical guru, but I've fixed some things and can learn quickly with the right resources.
Any help is very much appreciated, this little truck is otherwise amazing and just purs so sweetly.
Thank you!
I’m in Australia and my car is a 2000 Ford AU Series 2 LTD with a 302W and BTR97LE 4 speed auto.
The grey 120a main fusible link blew up the other day. It’s possible it failed because it’s 20 odd years old. The entire fuse disintegrated when I pulled it out and now all I have left are the 2 metal terminals.
All I’m asking is does anyone know the ford part number or anywhere I can find these fusible links? The only ones I can find are these Narva ones, but they are physically smaller than the one I need to replace.
I would prefer to not go to ford and be ripped off. It’s bad enough I have to rig up one of those narva ones to just move the car to get my other car out of the garage. I will start diagnosing why it failed in a week or so when I get home from work.
Any advice would be great, thanks
I have some questions about fusible links if the main battery one brakes like mine did would that cause many parts to stop working? I found many threads and forums that said in the 1987 model the main battery fuse being blown stopped everything but the headlights from turning on which is what's happening to me
My fusible links are causing me a lot of problems between my headlights, ignition, and alternator I seem to keep coming back to the fusible links and was wondering if anyone has upgraded them or replaced them with a more modern option. I’ve been struggling to find any alternative options for them and would really appreciate any help thank you
Hi, my Micra will refuse to start. I bought it as a non-runner and suspect the previous owner jumpstarted with reverse polarity.
There is an Electrical buzz sound when turning the key to run. I have replaced the starter motor, no luck. However, when shorting the starter motor when bridging the terminals, it fires right up: https://youtu.be/sSm-HSeeFVE
I have replaced all the blown fuses and now seen that my fusible link at the positive terminal is blown.
Fusible link image: https://imgur.com/a/sHEa7dK
- This blown fuse is a 60amp fuse responsible for the ignition relay
I don't know if this would be the cause of a non-crank and a clicking sound as if the relays are working. All the dash lights pop up when trying to start the car, the engine, anti-theft, power steering, ABS, oil light, fuel etc.
Do you think this 60 amp fusible link is the source for my issues? Thanks for reading
I cant seem to find any answers online, any chance you know how many amps the battery alternator fusible link is? Ita the last thing i need to finally be able to drive the car
Edit: added "battery alternator"
For the EV competition, the rules say that if you are making your own 18650 battery pack you need individual cell fusing, we have decided to go with using fusible links (19 ish gauge aluminum or copper is what we need for around 50A). The rules say you need to supply suitable test data, and the outline for testing says you must have a "constant current" source.
To test our fusible links, do we need to make some kind of current limiting circuit so we can control the current, or is there a simpler way to do this? Any advice would be appreciated.
We're making our battery for the EV series out of 18650 cells. Based on the rules, we need to fuse each 18650 and we were thinking the most feasible way to do this was with custom fusible links. However, we need to satisfy these three conditions:
"EV.9.1.6 Battery packs with Low Voltage or non voltage rated fusible links for cell connections may be
used when:
a. An Overcurrent Protection device rated at a current three times lower than the sum of
the parallel fusible links and complying with EV.9.1.2 above is connected in series.
b. The AMS can detect an open fusible link, and will shut down the electrical system by
opening the AIRs if a fault is detected.
c. Fusible link current rating is specified in manufacturer’s data or suitable test data is
provided"
We what teams who have experience building 18650 packs do to satisfy b), because if a fuse blows since it is in parralel won't voltage stay constant? Or will there be some specific behaviour that the BMS can detect.
I purchased the clicky starter fix from low range offroad it seems that someone has bypassed the "fusible link" with a 30 amp fuse, and with the bypass of the fusible link also came 3 switches to bypass the ignition switch and a push button for the starter (key broke off in the ignition) one switch is the fuel pump another is aux power and not sure what the 3rd switch does.
Installing the clicky starter kit was easy starting it not so much when I turn the power switch on it cuts off my fuel pump and im not sure why.. any help is appreciated and I can answer any questions you have.
pictures of the setup as it stands https://imgur.com/a/J71cX7i idk what someone would do with the pictures but there are here if ya want to see em
We are planning for our pack configuration to be 138S5P using Sony VTC 6 cells. According to EV.7.6.5:
Battery packs with Low Voltage or non voltage rated fusible links for cell connections may be used when:
An Overcurrent Protection device rated at a current three times lower than the sum of the parallel fusible links and complying with EV.7.6.2.b above is connected in series.
With a 20 A continuous discharge rating, and 5 cells in parallel, the sum of parallel fusible links should be 100 A, so would the main pack's fuse be rated at 100/3 = 33.33 A? It seems very low, and with our pack voltage of 600 V and an average power requirement of around 30 kW (as we calculated for our car), our pack would need 30k/600 = 50 A. I know this is a common cell, so if anyone has designed a pack using the Sony VTC 6 could you tell us how you come about your design? I guess we could avoid this by using voltage rated fusible links. Any suggestions on where to find those?
So I have been working on some upgrades to my R56 while it sits on the driveway during the lockdown. I installed a nice pair of wipac driving lights and genius that I thought I was, I tied the lamps to the left high beam lead. It all worked fine for about a dozen seconds or so...then the driving lamps and the left high beam went out...d'oh! I checked the line with my voltmeter and no juice. The right hi beam still works. I checked the fuses and every one that seems to be marked for headlamps appears fine...so, WTF(udge)! I am guessing that perhaps there is in addition to the fuse, MINI might have fusible links on the power lines to the high beams. Does anyone have expertise or info? Can someone confirm and even better, can someone tell me where the fusible link might be? Yeah, yeah, yeah, I am rewiring the wipacs correctly with the provided fuse, relay and SPST dash switch.... Thanks gang!
The cable coming from the alternator on the lower peg had melted and burned off. I know there may be a short behind the steering column but I don't know about that. I need to replace my alternator, splice the burned wire, and get a new battery. That fixes what is broken but does not solve the problem. I don't know what the heck I'm doing.
Fusible Link before / after I took it apart
Hey All,
So the fusible link on my pickup needs replacing. I cannot find the part online so I think I just need to find the fusible link cable and solder it it where the old cable was at. What do you guys think?
Another thing I have seen online, there is different gauges for fusible links (e.g. 10,12,14,18, 20). How do I know what is the correct gauge for my vehicle?
My wife drives an '03 Toyota Rav4 with 210XXX miles on it. She was driving the other day, and she said the gauges started flipping around a bit, then went to zero, then went back to their normal positions (except for the fuel gauge, which stayed at empty, despite there being gas in the tank). Shortly after she got off the highway, the car died, and although it would crank, it wouldn't start.
I poked around and found that two fuses had blown in the engine fuse box, as shown in this diagram;
F2 (15A Audio unit)
F4 (15A Ignition system, engine management).
I replaced those, and it started back up, but the dashboard, horn, radio, clock, fan, locks, and windows wouldn't work.
Today I checked the fusible link box, and found a link had blown, identical to this. Apparently that feeds fusible links:
F1 (80A Heated rear window relay, auxiliary power socket relay, fascia fuse box/relay plate)
F2 (80A Front fog lamp relay, horn relay, fascia fuse box/relay plate (F12, F21)
I've ordered a new link box, but I don't want to install it just to have it blow again (it's $50, plus a 4 day wait). I can't see any wiring that has any obvious problems. Any tips for where to start looking? Also, would it be risky to solder the broken link back together just to see if it blows again right away? Thanks in advance!
Hi guys,
I'm from a first-year EV team and we're thinking about using fusible links as the overcurrent protection of our cells in parallel. We're having trouble interpreting the articles EV.9.1.2 and EV.9.1.6 of the rules. It says:
"EV.9.1.2 The continuous current rating of the Overcurrent Protection must not be greater than the
continuous current rating of any electrical component, for example wire, busbar, cell or other
conductor that it protects."
In that case, what do we consider as the continuous current rating of the fusible link? We though of using the current level 1 in the fusible link testing guidelines (the current it takes to blow the fuse link between 30 and 300 sec exposure).
And EV.9.1.6 states:
"EV.9.1.6 Battery packs with Low Voltage or non voltage rated fusible links for cell connections may be
used when:
a. An Overcurrent Protection device rated at a current three times lower than the sum of
the parallel fusible links and complying with EV.9.1.2 above is connected in series.
b. The AMS can detect an open fusible link, and will shut down the electrical system by
opening the AIRs if a fault is detected.
c. Fusible link current rating is specified in manufacturer’s data or suitable test data is
provided"
We don't know if in order to use a fusible link to protect the cells we must obey all requirements a, b and c or if we must choose one of them. Have any of you guys tried to use a similar solution? If so, did you have to comply with all three requirements at once or just one of them? Also
We tried to post this question on our competition's forum, but so far, he had no answer from the ruling comitee, so we are checking if people had any experience with fusible links, because not having the answer is holding our accumulator design. Thanks a lot!
