And then, after I build a snow fort (which is going to be better than yours) I'm going to come inside, make a blanket and pillow fort with my dogs, drink hot chocolate while we watch Face-Off for the first time together (neither me nor my dogs have seen it, please don't murder me for admitting this) and then I'm going to make Kraft Dinner and put hotdogs in it and nobody can stop me.
Doesn't look like the plows nor the police will be out today! Go crazy, BC!
edit: it has not stopped snowing nor does it look like it will... plz send help and casseroles (around 5pm, I will tip well and you get to pet my dogs). when you get to entrance of fort please yell "the seattle kraken suck!" and my butler dog Tartar Sauce will answer, give her a treat to continue through to rear of snowfort, park ur car on street if it made it this far
this is going to be the only house I will ever be able to afford, I'm making it as big as I want
okay so this was a really fun (and tiring) day in the snow with the pups! only one cave-in and that was the dog's fault.
if anyone is interested I will post some pictures tomorrow AM if I'm online! I have to say I've been reading all of the replies and I love the positivity! I'm settling down with my KD now in a snug bed-sheet fort. not a single casserole was delivered, Tartar Sauce was very disappointed she got all dressed up in her snow jacket for nothing!
I'm waiting to repaint some interior doors while the weather is too cold to do other projects. I'd prefer to keep the doors on the hinges and just remove the knobs and paint them hanging, but I'm not sure the best way to do that.
I'd like them to look nice, of course, so I'd really love any help.
eta: Doors are already white, and I'm keeping them white. I'm 82% sure the builder never actually painted them, and they're just primed.
I have 4 doors in various states of ugly that my family would like to replace. Each door is 29" wide exactly. I can't find 29" doors anywhere, so do I need to reframe each door to fit a 30"?
I had to install a couple of doors today (which were in complete shit condition from the factory) and they were giving me a little trouble. My usual technique is to shim up the hinge side from floor/subfloor, shim and screw top down on hinge side, adjust latch side to match latch openings, shim and screw top down on latch side.
I doubt my technique is perfect but it usually works smooth enough, I’m just curious if there is a better/smoother installation method, especially with doors that aren’t of the highest quality?
Edit: I should have mentioned that I’m working renovations in Northern Ca. on homes that we’re built in the early 1900’s and redone in the 70’s /80’s so wall plumbness and thickness is questionable at best due to structural shiftage (earthquakes, liquefaction, methamphetamines,etc.)
A few weeks back, I replaced an interior wooden door for our master bedroom. I went to Home Depot, bought a slab hollow wooden door (same exact size as old/broken door) but needed to shave off about a half inch to get it to fit. Unfortunately I shaved the side with the door handle instead of the hinge. When I went to install the door handle, I realized that the door handle needs a certain amount of depth (which I partially removed) and now it sticks out instead of being flush and doesn’t latch. My question is, do I need to get a new door and start over? Or are there specialty doorknobs that don’t require to go as deep into the door?
Any feedback is much appreciated. Thanks!
I need to install some folding doors inside my house. It’s the door to the bathroom. Every folding door solution I’ve seen looks very cheap and doesn’t close well. Cost aside, can you all share some really nice solutions you’ve seen? I think I’d like a track on the bottom too if it helps with stability.
I live in a house built in the late 1800s, with 4 rooms added on in the (probably) 1950s. In this addition is a sold wood, 4 panel door that, between foundation issues and swelling, has pushed on its lower hinge to the point of stepping the two screw holes in the door. I tried to kludge it by glueing some wood shavings into the holes, then replacing the screws. This worked for a while, but failed again.
Would a proper fix be to pull the door, plane the bulge that causes the tension, then, using the glue and wood technique and possibly some longer screws, remount the door?
Thanks! Bill
Help? Pretty much everything in the title. It seems specifically to be present at locales where the NCR has a presence--Helios One/Hoover Dam, etc. and the doors affected are the metal blast doors. Not the large, wide ones, but the, idk, standard door sized blast doors. Have mods installed but have uninstalled all mods, reinstalled, verified files through steam, the whole nine yards and the problem remains. Any ideas? Load order is as follows, but the issue persists with no mods active as well:
FalloutNV.esm
[info] DeadMoney.esm
[info] HonestHearts.esm
[info] OldWorldBlues.esm
[info] LonesomeRoad.esm
[info] GunRunnersArsenal.esm
[info] ClassicPack.esm
[info] MercenaryPack.esm
[info] TribalPack.esm
[info] CaravanPack.esm
[info] NewCalifornia.esm
[info] Functional Post Game Ending.esm
[info] CoitoErgoSum.esm
[info] QSkunkwaterGulch.esm
[info] Th3OverseerCore.esm
[info] Brahmin Bess.esm
[info] NewCalifornia Courier Stash Control.esp
[info] outsidebets.esp
[info] DepthsOfDepravity.esp
[info] NewVegasUncut 123457 Merged.esp
[info] Headhunting.esp
[info] NorthRoad.esp
[info] Functional Post Game Ending - Outside Bets Patch.esp
[info] TheHighDesert.esp
[info] housemod.esp
[info] The Mod Configuration Menu.esp
[info] NewCalifornia DLC Control.esp
[info] Radio Free Wasteland.esp
I've got a 2005 WK. There's no way to open the liftgate from the inside. Do y'all know if there's a way to install something to allow me to open the hatch? You can see in the photo there's a small hole in the panel but I'm not sure what purpose it serves or if it could be utilized for this. Any ideas?
This rig has served me well on some overnight offroading trips and I like the ease of laying the seats flat and sleeping inside it... but I don't like shimmying out passenger doors to get out. Thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/dmatauvmvod81.jpg?width=2592&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=afea7f85235bf7ec45481bb8c3b20e7068e138ba
I had a couple apartment buildings yesterday where I call customer and get code to front door into lobby…then I’m inside and elevator is “locked” and stairs going up to apartments have locked door at the top too. WTF is this shit. These people live in fortresses and the apartments aren’t even that nice.
I'm new to this and have a few questions please:
- is there much difference in quality between applying primers and paints using a brush vs hvlp sprayer on to wood surfaces?
I was going to paint most my interior doors this month by hand but I also plan to do my kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities later this spring. If hvlp is superior, maybe I'll hold off on the doors until I can procure a system.
- paint type; milk based vs enamel. I recently watched https://youtu.be/q3m2SBE2hgw where this carpenter finished cabinets using milk based paint. However, on the DIY subreddit, many seem to prescribe enamel based. What paint and finish is superior for this application?
Thank you.
I am attempting to DIY new pre-hung doors in our home and have a few questions. I have removed the trim off our doors and noticed that the drywall stops short of the framing stud (at least that’s what I think the dark middle strip is on the first photo) on the strike side. My questions are:
-
Because of the drywall not meeting the jamb, does this cause any issues? All the videos I’ve watched online show framing that is flush with the drywall so I’m not sure how to approach.
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it seems that they used some sort of filler on both sides to fill in the space between the jamb and the drywall. It is only in some spots on the strike side, but is mostly filled in on the hinge side. Does anyone know what this is? I will need to remove it in order to remove the frame. Do I need to do put some kind of filler again once I install the new door?
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Additionally, has anyone used a quick door hang kit and will I be able to use it just on the hinge side if there is a small gap between the drywall and jamb?
Photos:
https://imgur.com/a/bOoABOQ - close up view of strike side… I believe the framing stud is the dark gray strip
https://imgur.com/a/RLFzhEd - close up of hinge side, light colored strip in the middle is the filler I’m referring to
I appreciate any input as this is my first big home project. Thank you!
This may be a stupid question but when I open the door no lights come on from the ceiling. How do I change it, I don't see buttons or settings? Thanks.
I am looking to replace the interior doors from builder hollow to a solid core. I won’t need a unique design. Is it worth sourcing a builder or are big box store solid core doors sufficient?
Anyone here experience creeky/cracky sounds when you rest your arm on your door arm rest? Like if you push yourself upwards while seated, your left arm rest (when you are in the driver seat in this example) cracks and creeks...also when I take a corner and my leg leans into the door panel, it also makes squeeky sounds...does anyone else's f150 do this?
Edit: and I'm talking like hardly any pressure, not full body weight.
