Buenas tardes muchachos, cómo están? La consulta es en referencia al auto del título. Que opiniones les merece? Reventa? Fiabilidad? Repuestos? Cualquier dato al respecto será agradecido!
Hello I have a arduino uno and a can bus shield and a power source for the instrument cluster but I cant find any help online of what the pin diagram for connecting can high and low and power and ground it would be helpful if someone help another thing i can't find is can ids for the cluster
We saw some real cold weather which must have killed the battery, so I can't unlock the car with the fob (changed the fob battery, nothing changed), I tried to get it open with the physical key, but even after all the WD40 in the world, the cylinder isn't turning, it feels like if I force it too much I'll break the key.
So, my 2 options were to either charge the battery from the starter + wire and ground, or maybe try to give it some power through the trailer plug, I would just need to know the + and ground connections there. If I could get some power through there, I might be able to use the fob to unlock.
Really don't want to get under the car since we recently had a lot of snow and all of it melted.
Anyone know if the trailer plug method would be possible? Thanks in advance.
I have an Ford Mondeo 2003, bought it last year, it has been running fine till it got some issues so i wanted some help from my Ford Buddies.
Anyways, i have noticed twice that my passenger tyre has always gets a weird cut out as if someone sliced it in a circle, like someone rolled my tyre and put a knife on it so it gets cut deeply.
i actually have no idea why that happens and i have replaced the tyre couple of time and it is always the same thing. Is it a suspension issue ?
i have tried to get it Aligned as well but the problem does not go away.
The Second Problem which i am facing is my Speed Gauge is jumping from 60 KMPH to 80 KMPH ,like it just goes crazy sometimes.
Would Appreciate any Help.
Thanks.
My dad's 2002 Ford Mondeo sometimes won't go past 3000 RPM after 2nd gear. I can hear the turbo starting to spin, but it is as if the fuel got cut off.
No lights come on and he won't take it to the shop because it's a beater. "No error light, no problem".
The funny thing is, I can drive it all day, pedal to the floor and it still won't accelerate, but when he hops in, on a cold engine it f*cking flies like a rocket.
I thought it might be carbon build-up, but I can't really drive it hard like this. How bad would it be to downshift from 5th in 3000RPM to 3rd? I know it might be really stupid, but the "Italian tune-up" in a city is impossible because of traffic.
Recentemente mio padre mi ha offerto la sua auto, una Ford Mondeo del 2009 (terza serie) tenuta abbastanza bene e regolare ma tuttavia con circa 300.000km, per comodità copio i dati del modello.
2.0 Duratorq TDCi: 140 CV - 4 cilindri in linea, Diesel, 1.997cc, 103 kW (140 CV), 4.000 giri/min 340 N·m 1.750 giri/min, consumo km/l 17,0, velocita max 210.
Eventualmente dovrei pagare soltanto il passaggio, dunque non una spesa eccessiva.
Tutto ciò sarebbe da fare l'anno prossimo tuttavia (ora sono neopatentato), so che è sicuramente preso per decidere ma cerco un consiglio, ne potrebbe valere la pena in futuro? Quanto potrebbe durare in media?
Going to look at a Ford mondeo estate, 2.0 zetec tomorrow. I just need some Advice from any Ford enthusiasts 11 plate 75000 miles
- when should the timing belt be replaced
- how to check the timing belt for any sign of wear
- anything else I should look for when buying this car
Friend had her car not start so I went to take a look. -It was left there over night
-checked battery voltage with multimeter, 12.4V, before doing anything else. Less than year old battery.
-It was either 10.5V or 11.5V when cranking, sounded healthy to me.
-checked plugs, looks dry and fine. Replaced 2020 according to service manual.
-checked spark, there is spark but maybe not that strong. I dont work much on petrol engines so not 100% sure on this.
We did multiple attempts to start it, longer and shorter ones. It did not cough even once.
Then we put on jumper cables from a running car, I measured and there is 13.8V at the battery. The Ford fired straight up without any issues.
Disconnected jumper cables, did multiple restarts, no issues whatsoever. Didnt have enough time at that moment to drain the charge voltage down (to the ~12.4V there was at the beginning) and see if the issue returns.
Any suggestions what could be causing this? Is there something in the ignition system that could cause enough poor spark even though voltage is not that low? Or maybe it was just a coincidence it started working after jump starting.
As far as I underdtood this issue has not happened before, though apparently there has been some coughing/sputtering on a running engine.
