I realized today that the loud, greasy fan vent over our stove doesn’t actually vent to anything. I don’t know why it took me this long but now I’m just staring at it, mad that it exists. What is even the point? To circulate smoke faster? To slowly collect grease and turn into a fire hazard, just to keep home life spicy? I love my fiancé and she makes great food but she cooks like an Indian street vendor and it absolutely kills my allergies. Now I feel like a fucking idiot for ever getting irritated she didn’t turn that stupid fucking fan on.
I mean, fuck. Am I missing something? Is this a weird code thing? I don’t get it.
EDIT: I’m looking at my roof and I ALREADY HAVE AN EXTERNAL KITCHEN VENT! What the fuck, PO??!! Why did you hand-make new cabinets and then put in a useless, $60 hood vent??
Looking to have a ductless mini split installed to reduce heating costs (baseboard and gas fireplace now).
Wondering if anyone has had a good experience with any local contractors and what I should expect to pay for a unit with 4-5 heads.
Thank you!
So I was planning to replace the 1/2 bath exhaust fan with one that has a light to brighten up the room, opened it up to replace and to my surprise there is no vent on the existing fan.
Now it is a 1/2 bath; no shower no tub, no humidity issues. I have been searching for ductless with a light online and they don’t seem to exist. Broan makes a grille cover with an led but it isn’t compatible with their new ductless fans they say. I’m nowhere near an exterior wall to run a vent out cheaply. Am I hosed? Does anyone know of any other ductless with lighting options?
Hi all-
Doing a big remodel on a 950 sq ft house with a fairly old ducted LP furnace (no AC) up in Zone 6 climate zone. I'm looking to renovate the basement and essentially double the sq footage and am debating between integrating one of those central heat pump/AC units with my current furnace or running a couple ductless units.
It seems odd to me to *not* use the ducts that are already there, and I imagine I would have to run at least 2 heads to get enough heat around the house. Ideally I'd want to stay on electric to as low a temp as possible to save on LP costs.
From what I've been reading, it seems like the central units are also significantly more expensive. Are they also less efficient/loss of heat in the ductwork?
Any thoughts on this? Recommendations on models?
Hi All,
My husband and I are in the process of getting quotes for installing ductwork in our 100-year-old 2-story 1800 sq colonial in a Massachusetts suburb. Currently, we have gas radiator heat and no existing ductwork. We've looked at mini-duct systems and high-velocity systems, and we both dislike the look of mini-duct systems in historic homes and neither of us has much experience with high-velocity ducts.
I know we can't be the only ones in Boston that have had to make this decision, we're hoping the mass saves program will cover all if not a large portion of this project and wanted to hear experiences from our fellow century home owners on how the HVAC process went for them and any tips.
I just moved to a 650 square foot, 2Br/ 1Ba two story townhouse with window AC units and electric baseboard for heat. My realtor had suggested I look into ductless mini splits to get rid of the window units. Does anyone have experience with this sort of heating/cooling system in Washington DC?
I'm looking for a heat pump to be added to our home, which is currently heat-only with a gas furnace. The main goal is to add cooling to the entire home, but having a secondary heating option is appealing as well. We have a 2 story, 2400 sq ft house in the Seattle area.
One of the proposals I received was for a Bryant 38MAR, 3 ton, which appears to be a ductless system. The low volume level (53dB) and thin profile is appealing, but I question whether this is actually practical. Can these units be hooked up to cool the entire home through existing ductwork, and are these units as reliable as the bigger box sized units?
Another proposal from a different company was for a Lennox EL16XP1, for roughly the same price (about $11K). The noise level is rated at 73dB, which seems quite a bit louder. The only place to put the heat pump is relatively close to our deck. Would this noise level be intolerable for anyone outside?
Alright looking for some advice, guidance, videos etc
We are in the process of a kitchen remodel and part of that will be moving our stove. We currently have an over range microwave that vents to the attic. We are removing the microwave and want to use a stand along range hood
The wall the stove will be on is an exterior brick wall
Will be easier to rent a hammer drill and drill through the wall Or to use a hole saw and vent to the attic vent?
The final option is to install a ductless vent.
Hello, I have a ductless MRCOOL minisplit unit that repeatedly has issues with rapid mold growth on the blower wheel. After the first time and having a professional clean the unit, I've been following their instructions (Keep the unit on automatic, dont suddenly shut it off), but I am still having the issue of sudden and rapid mold growth on the blower wheel.
I was also told that the unit is much too large for my small 1 bedroom building (renovated shed) and this is causing the issue as the unit does not have time to remove the humidity from the air. At a loss here, what can I do to help keep this from continually happening? Do I just need to run a dehumidifier constantly?
I live in Florida
Hoping someone can shed some light on a pattern I’ve seen on ductless systems. It seems No matter the brand, the (MCA)minimum circuit ampacity and (MOCP)over current protection ratings on the nameplate of the outdoor unit is always way higher than the unit actually draws when it runs at its highest draw. It doesn’t matter what tonnage it is.
Example a 3 ton multi zone unit nameplate will read ~20 to 25 MCA and a 30 amp MOCP which correlates to #10awg copper and a 2 pole 30 amp breaker respectively, but when I clamp the system and run it flat out in heating or cooling the max draw I get is 16 amps and it never runs at that draw for long, before it ramps down to 8-12 amps.
The motors all over the system are soft start so it’s not as if we need the higher ratings for high startup amps.
What’s with these higher ratings?
I just bought a 1940s house in VA with the original oil fired boiler, hot water radiators, and no ductwork. I'm planning to add a ductless mini split split heatpump system for air conditioning and shoulder season heat, but I'm thinking that I will want to keep some radiators for supplemental heat when it gets really cold, like right now. The oid boiler looks like it's from 1940, so it clearly needs to be replaced, and there's no gas service currently, although there is service on the street so I could probably have a line run. If it's possible, though, I'd rather go all electric. Does anyone know of an electric boiler which could be used with an older hot water system? It's a fairly small house (1000sq ft), but the exterior walls on the ground floor are brick with no insulation so it's pretty inefficient. I would think something around 10kW would be enough. I'll be getting pros in to do all the work, but I'd like to have a good idea of what's possible before I start talking to them. Any advice is appreciated, thanks!
I had Samsung ductless units installed in my living room and kitchen area, two 12,500 BTU wall units for an open space about 1000 sq feet with low ceilings. I live in the northeast and the weather is starting to go down to the 30s and 40s. Since turning off the oil furnace and using only the units, I've noticed that the heating so far is a bit irregular: with the units set at 72 degrees, the room temperature (measured with a thermometer placed away from the units) gets up to around 66 degrees, which is fine, except that it feels very drafty, like there is always a cold chill floating around the room along with the warm air. I'm in the process of exploring a whole-house installation (half of this old house has electric baseboards and the other half is heated by an oil furnace—both of which are very expensive to run) and I'm a little concerned about how well these things really heat. The condenser I have is rated to work down to -5 degrees, which should be sufficient as it almost never gets that low, but am I crazy to consider ductless as my home's sole heat source? Anyone else go this route and have advice? Thank you!
Is it worth it to get ducts replaced, hook up to town heating (gas) and put in a new A/C unit-(expensive) into a 75 yr old house that needs all new windows?
Also, is it a better option to get the ductless AC/Heat system - for that cover several rooms?
another issue is the electrical system may need to be updated... looking for advice - thank you
5 head system Mitsubishi ductless with the refrigerant line running across the ranch style home, across our bedroom ceiling in attic space, and down our bedroom wall (on the outside) to unit. The system is working and we love it EXCEPT it sounds like popcorn popping or someone drumming in the refrigerant line. It's not so relaxing to lie in bed at night and listen to the drumming. The tech came back out, opened unit, and heard the sounds but seemed perplexed. The solution they came up with was to remove refrigerant and recharge, possibly to bleed off air in line? They said if this didn't work, they would have to "pull Mitsubishi into" it. Is this typical noise for a ductless system? Any recommendations? I really like the company who installed it-diamond installer- and they seem very competent. I just want to know if this is typical and whether we can expect the recharge to alleviate the noise? Thanks!
Edit for misspelling
We already have a ductless system that provides us excellent and relatively efficient AC - but only works to provide heat up until November or so.
Fujitsu/Mitsubishi etc now make models that supposedly heat down to -15F - and I would LOVE to cut off my gas and go all electric.
Has anyone in the Chicago area used a Ductless system as their primary heating source all winter?
