I’ve been given a 12v battery box with 300w inbuilt inverter and looking to go away traveling. We have some appliances that can be used with it but others are 600w + I don’t know enough about how they work but can someone explain what would happen if I were to use a higher watt appliance on it
I am new to solar, but I am seriously considering having an array installed on my roof. I have gotten 2 bids and both systems are essentially the same size and have the same estimated production, but 1 is more expensive. After looking over the designs and talking to both reps there is a fundamental difference in design. Both believe they are right and I have found information to support both. Is there anyone that can give some insight and data to back up which would be the correct way. Maybe it doesn’t matter and it just comes down to economics (the least expensive way to build an array to meet a production target). Both systems are using the exact same micro inverter.
System A has the panels sized so the output exceeds the micro inverter max output ability which as I understand is to allow the inverter to produce a longer duration of the day when the panels may not be producing at peak, but at peak it will cause clipping where the inverter can’t convert all the power to AC thus losing some production. However, since it can produce a longer period during the day it makes up for the clipping loss. This system has fewer of a larger panel.
System B has the panels sized so the output is under/at the micro inverter max output ability which as I understand is to allow the inverter to convert all collected energy to AC without any clipping which allows the system to be super-efficient at the peak time of day. This then would mean that when it’s not peak time of day it will not produce at all or significantly less. This system has more of smaller panel.
System A is less expensive. System B is saying that by not pushing the micro-inverters to the max (or not at all) for a longer duration of the day it will make them last longer. Both systems have a 25 year warranty. System is A is less expensive by about 15%
I seem to be at a point where I need to decide which design theory is better as well as what makes financial sense. If system B will have less downtime, failures, and will last past the 25 year warranty then the increased cost makes sense. However the financials on system A makes more sense if I should assume the life of the array is 25 years since at that point it will have more than paid for itself and it has a lower initial cost.
I've been riding my friend's spare bike for a month or so, and I'm now willing to invest in a bike of my own.
I'll be doing trail rides mostly but I do want it to last be versatile, so I'm thinking Siskiu D7 or T7.
D7: https://www.bikesonline.com/2021-polygon-siskiu-d7-dual-suspension-mountain-bi
T7: https://www.bikesonline.com/2021-polygon-siskiu-t7-dual-suspension-mountain-bi
I'm 6'1", but I have shorter than average legs, a long torso, and long-ish arms. The size finder recommends right in between L and XL, and I'm wondering which I should go for. Is there a rule of thumb to tie break? i.e. is it easier to size down the fit vs size up the fit, larger is better/worse for a beginner, etc.
If it matters at all I used to ride road and cyclocross.
All of this waiting has gotten me wondering if I undersized my system. I originally ordered a solar roof and after the price increase , put on a new roof and ordered panels. I ordered the 8.16 kw system with 2 powerwalls. I was going to skip the powerwalls until we had a three day outage. I have a 100 amp panel and use 10,500 a year. No one came to do a site visit to see if I have to upgrade my electric. Nothing was mentioned on my order. Any thoughts? Should I have ordered the 12 or would that have been too much? I don‘t have an EV but do have electric appliances with oil heat and hot water.
Hi,
Ive started really getting into golf and I have to a conclusion that my hands are a bit too small for my clubs.. So I measured my hand and it looks like I am undersize fit.
I was trying to figure out if it was possible to replace regular size grip with undersize, or if the club itself also needs to be less thick. Surprisingly it's hard finding answers online. I bought a kit with some undersized grips, and tried replacing a club myself. It was a disaster, super hard to get on -- has anyone done this or am I doing something stupid and would actually need to get new clubs in order to really get undersized grips?
When I use Gas,Rex,Fives & Arc Trooper it doesn’t register as an undersize squad in the galactic challenges....maybe it’s because of the turret? Idk ....
Looking for a U die to setup a tool head just for processing. Only ones I can find online are for crazy prices on eBay. Thanks in advance
Hi all, since I dont have a decent Resistance squad of any type, just thought I'd float this here. Is there a way to beat the final tier with non-Resistance and undersize?
In previous GCs when I've haven't had the faction I typically Sith Empire or Vader the hell out of whatever it is I'm facing, but this time these Geos are just a tad too thick (and fast it seems). Do I have anything that would work?
Is it ok to use the Lee U-Die without the pin.. call me crazy but i have station 1 universal decapper and then station 3 lee undersize die.. I know, I could just use the U die station 1 and call it a day, but I wanted the option to pull out the undersizer if I didnt need to use it and just wanted to decap.. pistol cases primarily, 9mm
I have gotten a lot of reports recently (must be winter) on fish folks believe are illegal or too small. Some thoughts:
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Don't report to me, report to fish and game. If I remove it they will never get caught.
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I have no way to know what rules and regulations are in place across the world.
Working on building an enclosure and want to use some M2.5/M3/M4 threaded inserts to assemble it.
The threads have the following diameters:
M2.5 = 3.5mm
M3 = 4.2mm
M4 = 5.2mm
How big should I model the holes in CAD?
I'm meaning cars that would come with a V8 in most trims, but had a poverty spec model with a 1.6 or something
For example, the Holden Starfire motor in the early Commodores or the 4 cylinder early Mustangs
Edit: a good one that comes to mind is the Mk5 Golf 2.0 SDI - 73hp N/A diesel
