Surge Suppressor Puns

I’m planning to put up an antenna on my roof. I’ve read about the importance of installing a lightning surge suppressor. Channel Master sells one like this:

https://www.channelmaster.com/collections/cables-connectors/products/tv-antenna-lightning-surge-suppressor-cm-3205

But I’ve seen others that actually provide ground such as these:

https://www.waveform.com/products/altelix-75-ohm-lightning-surge-protector-with-f-connectors

Which type would offer me better protection from nearby lightning strikes?

I noticed the other day that the wall outlet in my house, that only my Furman Surge Suppressor Strip is plugged in to, was hot. I immediately turned off everything connected to the strip, turned off the strip, and unplugged it from the outlet.

I am wanting to know if I just have too much connected to the strip: 100w katana, whammy DT pedal, freeze pedal, and ditto looper.

Other possible issue is that there could be just an issue with the wiring of the outlet. Wanted to get an understanding if i just have too much plugged into the strip before i start checking electrical connections.

I recently bought an apc ups and it has an integrated surge suppressor. Will this degrade the signal and reduce speeds? I am getting a brand new setup and I want to protect it. Especially because our house has already been struck by lightning once and it killed ~$1000 in gear last time. I am terrified it will happen again

So I'm asking a basic electrical question here, but I'm asking it in r/standingdesk to see if I can get away with just one surge suppressor. I'm hoping to have one less cord coming from the desk.

I have a pretty power hungry setup. On top of my standing desk I have a PS5, a high power gaming PC, two monitors, two studio monitor speakers, a subwoofer that plugs in from below, a USB power hub, a lamp and on occasion a laptop.

Does it make sense to use 1 single surge suppressor in a wall outlet, or should I get two and plug them into both outlets on the wall? Are their any advantages to this? Or am I using the same amperage on the outlet with two plugged in versus one? Am I more likely to trip the breaker with only one cord plugged in?

Have been reading various threads re. installing surge suppressor (e.g., this one) and the one thing I'm not clear on is how to pick ethernet cable to run from the surge suppressor (outside the house) to the router inside. Is it enough to see it mention 23awg in the description to know it will carry power?

I see this one (though I don't need 35', just about 10'), but it doesn't say UTP (unshielded twisted pair).

This one from Monoprice looks good though it lists as F/UTP instead of UTP, which from what I read means it is shielded. Will that work?

Am loving the service now that I got dishy mounted on the roof. Only about 20 secs of dropouts every 12 hrs from some very minor obstructions.

I work as a Control Panel Technician building panels for solar sites. I was tasked with something a little over my head. We currently use: L-com AL-D15P24DW - https://www.alliedelec.com/product/l-com/al-d15p24dw/70900016/ to protect all of our RS-485 devices - Pyranometers, All-in-one Weather Sensors & BOM / RTD Temperature sensors.

This product currently for us is having high margin for error and failure rates. The circuit board and ports are alarmingly delicate as well.

Are there any similar products to recommend?

Here's my experience using SL with Ethernet Surge Suppressor, not running Dishy cable inside house, and having SL power supply inside.

For past few weeks, I have had Dishy set up with its power supply outside, as I did not want to bore a 1” hole through stucco into the house. I already had an Ethernet surge suppressor mounted outside as part of previous LTE Internet system. The surge suppressor was my demarcation between external wiring and what went inside and connected to my PFSense router.

With start of SL install several weeks ago, I wanted to keep it as close to the SL supported method, until was sure everything worked fine. So….

First I went with the SL Supply outside, the router-side ethernet connected to the Tupavco surge suppressor, then that connected to the SL router inside over standard cat6 UTP cable. Then I connected the SL router Aux port to my PFSense router. All worked well. I didn’t have routes set up yet so could get to SL admin page from LAN, so I just accessed through the SL router Wifi from my phone.

Then I worked through the PFSense settings for policy route from LAN to the SL admin portal, and eliminated the SL router. All worked well.

Next took the big leap to try moving the SL power supply inside, connecting Dishy to the outside surge suppressor, running the Dishy POE power through about 40-feet of generic Southwire 23awg CAT6 UTP cable I had inside the house, between outside surge suppressor and my PFSense router. Reading the Tupavco surge suppressor specs, it says can handle POE power <60vdc (SL is 56vdc, so that looks good). The surge suppressor says handles POE current up to 2A, though that is typically using standard POE 802.3x that uses 2 pairs. I have read that SL uses all 4 pairs for power, so current would be spread out across all the pairs, 180W max / 56V = 3.2A across 4 pairs, so doesn’t seem it’d overload the surge suppressor.

So bit the bullet, hooked it all up, and it works! No magic smoke was released. Now have Dishy cable connected to surge suppressor outside. 30-ft Cat6 running from surge suppressor to the SL power supply inside by my PFSense router. SL power supply white side output connected to PFSense router. Been running for a couple days and haven’t seen any degradation in SL performance. I’m happy.

BTW, Surge suppressor ground is connected to outside electric service panel ground rod via 50 ft of 6AWG ground wire, run around perimeter of house.

[Inside Surge Suppressor. Dishy on Left, Cable

I have 11 PIV's that are hooked in through space age surge suppressors. Every one reads a ground fault at the panel. I can't read it with my meter. These are what the customer requested in the spec, but I've never had this problem with Ditek. Is this a thing with EST or space age surge suppressors or am I missing something obvious? If anybody has had experience with this please share what resolves the issue.

I found in some websites that there are other devices to protect a pc, some of those websites recommend to use them all. I was thinking about getting an ups but now I doubt if it could protect my pc from voltage or surges

Curious your advice on this topic. My utility company will install a type 1 device for $43 at the meter if I buy it or I can buy a type 2 and install myself at the breaker.

What are your thoughts?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-Whole-House-Surge-Protector-CHSPT2ULTRA-1/204761136

Is a whole house surge suppressor worth installing?

I'm thinking type 2, and wire it it a 2-pole breaker.

Is the Siemens FS140 worth the high price?

Do you guys have any stories to share?

https://preview.redd.it/xmp212wo83f61.png?width=434&format=png&auto=webp&s=d5cd614adc506fe3305df6472b0662de334da732

my building.... an electrical nightmare. no ground on any and ii mean any outlet. i bought a small surge protector, does it need to be grounded in order to do its job?

So this homelab isn't exactly going to stick around. We're replacing a ton of 1U hosts in our DR location with Cisco UCS and I'm getting all the pre-configuration done off-site before showing up to the datacenter because it's a state away and I want to minimize the amount of travel time.

I've got a NEMA 10-50 plug in the basement to supply 240V, which I need because UCS chassis needs 208/220/240 for its power supplies.

Work wants me, because this is ~$42,000 worth of gear, to get surge suppressor.

So I need to get a UPS which can power chassis and FI's. And I need to obviously be able to plug the UPS into the wall. Anyone have any experience with this? The UCS has C20 plugs. The FI's use standard PC power plugs, no issue there.

EDIT: Something like this looks like it's the only one which fits the bill. https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-PR2200ELCDRTXL2U-High-Voltage-Sinewave-Outlets/dp/B003VNFAS0

Hey everyone, new construction going on right now and I’m trying to pick a whole home surge suppressor. I see prices from 65 bucks to 400....

What’s the Consensus on what I need or want, nothing special about the house or the stuff in it.

Hi, All!

In our house it is common for lights to dim and flicker when a large power draw is experienced (when the printer turns on, when the dryer kicks on, etc.). We don't experience many "blackouts" (although we are in the midwest and our power just went out due to the huge storm that just went through). Right now I have 2 monitors, my PC, my work laptop and printer all powered via the same surge protector strip.

My PC seems to function just fine despite these flickering lights, but I'm wondering if there is something that I should be installing to increase the longevity of my system? Is there something that can protect against the flickering lights (brown outs) as well as give me some security for blackouts or power surges?

Thanks!

So I know daisy-chaining power strips (or their older brothers, surge suppressors) is a "never do" but I also have a bit of a belt-and-suspenders tendency, unfortunately.

I'm wondering if you could plug a UPS into a surge suppressor (only using one of the jacks on the the surge suppressor and fill the rest with those child-safe plug plugs), more or less using the suppressor as an extension cord with a fuse so it eats a lightning strike rather than/before the UPS? I'd probably run my coax through it as well (Wall - Suppressor - UPS - Modem).

Or is this a terrible idea which will also fuck up the UPS's ability to turn on in case of a power loss (because, I dunno, the cycle)?

Which is better the Furman or the Tripp Lite? I have been using the Furman to power my small HT setup consisting of a Receiver, xbox, blue ray player and various HDMI streaming devices. Power also rung from my rack to the projector and sub. But i was recently gifted the Tripp Lite Should I swap them out?

Furman M-8x2 https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6?th=1 Tripp Lite IBAR 12 Ultra https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ibar12+ultra&ref=nb_sb_noss

I saw an add for a whole house surge arrester today, and it got me thinking about how similar that device is to the surge protectors built in to power strips. It's essentially metal oxide varistors connected in parallel with the load to dissipate excess voltage. What I'm hung up on is that it is claimed that the load has to be plugged in to a power strip containing the surge suppressor.

If I'm not mistaken, the power strip should theoretically protect other devices that are on the same circuit that it is plugged in to because, electrically, the MOVs are still in parallel with the load. This is the same configuration that a whole house unit would be installed. Connected in parallel with everything else.

To take this a step further, the protection should extend to other devices in the home that are on different circuits as well, assuming that they are still on the same 120v leg.

Am I looking at things wrong, or does this make sense?

https://preview.redd.it/3wm9wa64fa841.png?width=628&format=png&auto=webp&s=099b9f1c1a2fe661e043df29e0ff008319335795

When should I replace a UPS, not because of a worn-out battery, but because of its worn-out surge suppressor?

The battery of a typical UPS has a useful life of 3 to 5 years. A UPS also contains surge suppressor parts. Everyone seems to recommend replacing surge suppressor power strips after 2 years. So doesn't the surge suppressor in a UPS become ineffective after 2 years also?

I've replaced batteries in our UPSes multiple times. Now I'm concerned that the UPSes are not providing proper surge suppression. I am not worried about nearby lightning strikes. They will fry any surge suppressor short of a whole house unit with a sturdy grounding wire. I just want protection from garden-variety power surges.

The vendors advise against using a power strip with surge suppression plugged into a UPS, so that is not an option. And you cannot even test any surge suppressor to see if it is effective. Experts say to throw them out after 2 years!

Does it detect leakage across the MOV(s) or simply that the fuse is not blown? Surely this must be an inexpensive circuit, but everything that shows up on line has lots of parts, spark gaps, etc.

Not everybody knows to turn the board on first, amps on second, and reverse for turning off. Is there such a thing as an XLR surge suppressor that will protect the speakers in the event it's done incorrectly?

A power sequencer unfortunately won't (easily) help because the amps and mixer are far away (50') from each other.

We've lost equipment in the past due to electrical surges where I live. Wherever possible, we use UPS's or other power conditioning to protect sensitive devices and appliances.

I've got a significant investment in Hue bulbs and other home automation devices that are connected directly into house current. I'm concerned that the next time we get a big lightning strike in the area, I'm going lose a bunch of bulbs.

I'd like to install a single device near my electrical panel that would protect everything in the house from such nonsense. I'm just not seeing a lot of hits when I search online.

Is anyone doing anything with whole-house surge suppressors or other types of surge protection? Any good or bad experiences you'd like to share?

I'll be traveling to Africa for a few months, taking camera gear, laptop, tablet, and phone. Have been advised of sketchy power surges that threaten to fry any and all gear. I will need to charge camera and equipment batteries (may not be able to find replacements locally).

Can you suggest something in terms of a mobile surge suppressor? My converter claims to have that ability but I'd feel so much more comfortable if I had some level of redundancy.

Thanks