Have been on soft tubing loop for close to a year and deciding i like the look better of hard tubing and at this point after readjusting the loop a few times feel im comfortable enough to tackle hard tubing. Question is is it necessary to do a pressure relief valve since obviously the acrylic wont expand or is it safe to just leave air space in my distro plate for expansion?
https://postimg.cc/YG2MH6MJ
As new home owner I found this valve under kitchen sink. I think it's gas relief valve, if so why is it under kitchen sink? Is it safe? Btw it has green label with 125 psi and it was made in 1958!
I was away on vacation, and got an alert from my smart water monitor that the system was using too much water. A family member came by, and observed that water was coming out of the furnace relief valve. He shut off water coming into the house, shut off the furnace, and drained the water lines (we're in a cold climate, and don't want pipes to freeze).
I'm back home now, and am taking a look at it. 40 degree house, late, tired, and kids who are still awake, lol. I turned the water back on, left furnace off, and water started coming out of the relief valve. It was a steady flow. Maybe .5-1 gal/minute? Cold water worked in the house, but had low pressure. I turned the furnace on, and it kicked in just fine. The only difference was that the water coming out of the relief valve was now steaming hot.
I shut everything off again (water and furnace), but then tried turning just the furnace on to see what would happen. No water is overflowing, but the furnace (which starts our baseboard heating) also never kicked on... I heard the sound of flowing water (or something like it) in the system, but the furnace never kicked on.
I've been trying to get a repair person in the house, but since tomorrow's a Sunday, thought I'd ask Reddit for advice in the interim...
I have a Weil Mclain 68 Boiler. About a week ago the 5 gallon bucket I have under the pressure relief valve was completely full and overflowing. I don't know exact times but it probably filled up that much in about 2 weeks.
I have some pictures of the setup here https://imgur.com/a/jpdEWXy.
I found out that the temperature was set to almost 200 deg F on the boiler which I think is too high. I turned it down to 180. I sometimes see the pressure on the gauge approach 30psi, but not really go over it. I noticed the pressure relief valve dripping a bit of water at around 28 psi (not exact, just slightly under the 30 psi line).
Before I read up more, I manually opened the pressure relief valve and some rusty water came out initially.
I'm guessing that either the pressure in the boiler is a handful of PSI too high and the pressure-reducing valve on the intake needs adjustment, or that the pressure relief valve isn't true to its 30 psi rating (since it's letting out water just below 30psi) and needs to be replaced.
As far as I can tell, the pressure expansion tank is not full of water.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
The Maximum working pressure of my compressors are 200 PSI.
My pressure switch turns off the compressors at 200 PSI.
I have the safety relief valve setup for 212 PSI.
Is this how an air setup should work? Or will this instantly damage the compressors?
Or is this correct. Where in the event the pressure switch fails. It will only go less than 10% over capacity for the compressors before the relief valve activates.
I often read posts on this sub where people have fallen on hard times and their living situation is definitely on the brink of collapse. When living paycheck to paycheck, barely being able to meet bills, any disruption of income can have crushing consequences that are completely disproportionate to the problem. For example, a post just the other day discussed how a person lost reliable transporation to work and would lose their job and they wouldn't be able to afford their apartment.
I propose that people be allowed, every year or two, to access their future Social Security payment to provide a safety net. I haven't really thought out how this would work but if a person was clearly in a crisis they could access a few months of Social Security payments and that would push back, an equal number of months, when they would be able to begin receiving their retirement payments.
I'd imagine that there would be concern about abuse of the system so potentially there would be a limit on the frequency of access and a cap on the total number of months of pre-payment. I would also provide for a mechanism to pay the money back to Social Security so that the total available bank of pre-payments would be reset.
Currently the way unemployment benefits are structured there are simply too many instances where no safety net is provided and, but for a few thousand dollars, a person wouldn't face financial devastation. I'm curious to hear what others have to say.
I have a boiler + indirect water heater system. Above the boiler on the hot water outlet side there are a water expansion tank and an auto air vent and on the return side there is another auto air vent. Both vents are now continuously dripping (please see red circled areas in the pictures). What's the right course of diagnostics I should do?
Most of the resources I found have expansion tanks and pressure relief valves installed on top of the water heater. There is a lever-type pressure relief valve on the boiler that is unfortunately stuck. It's also weird that both auto air vents failed at the same time. Based on the knocking sound, the expansion tank appears to have air on the bottom half.
[UPDATE] The boiler shows a feed pressure of 0 (with feed line open).. and the temperature was set at 195 F. I checked the expansion tank and there was no water gushing out. The tank pressure is 10.5 psi. Could it be that the pressure relief valve on the boiler is stuck closed which caused the air vents to leak? I was able to finally unstuck the relief valve, water starts to come out of the valve and the vents stopped leaking. However, if I keep the feed line open, the relief valve would keep draining. What situation am I dealing with?
[Update] Replaced the pressure relief valve and the two automatic air vents. Purged the system. The new pressure relief valve opens and closes correctly when the feed line pressure reducing valve is forced open (street pressure). The heating system seems to be working fine, but what concerns me is that the boiler pressure gauge shows a cold pressure of 30 psi and hot pressure of 46 psi after continuous heating. The boiler pressure gauge has a red mark at 40 psi, which appears to be the safety limit. However, the pressure relief valve did not trigger. Bad gauge?
[UPDATE] It is bad gauge. I bought a faucet type gauge and measured slightly less than 20 psi hot. Accordingly to a tech I talked with on the phone, the original problem was likely due to low boiler pressure (The automatic water feed valve likely was stuck) which caused the water to boil and broke both air vents.
I woke up yesterday to a partially flooded basement due to water gushing out of the relief valve of my circa 1985 gas boiler, which looks like hell but was serviced last fall and worked well all winter. I have not found any hvac service providers who can come out before next week and am posting here for advice in the meantime.
I inspected the pressure reducing valve and pressure relief valve, and both look clean and are less than one year old. I replaced the expansion tank because it was water logged. But the boiler is still leaking heavily when I open the water supply. Only a small amount of water seems to be going into the system.
Is there a check valve somewhere on this unit to prevent backflow? Any advice would be much appreciated.
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It seems pretty simple to get a new one and replace it myself… should I call a plumber though?
When she hit it… water came pouring out and stopped when I was able to pull the little metal nub out. I figure I should replace it
To give you some context:
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We are trying to add a Relief Valve to protect the shell-side of the exchanger
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The over pressurization scenario for a S&T heat exchanger is the external fire case.
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The shell-side fluid is steam which gets condensed. The H/E is equipped with a steam trap to evacuate the condensate
My question is: if you were to make the calculation, would you assume that the fluid state is liquid or vapor?
API 521 offers two calculations for the fire case, if the vessel is filled with liquid or gas. I'm in conflict with some colleagues as we disagree with the state of fluid.
I say that since it's a S&T and it has a steam trap, the vessel will mainly be filled with vapor. on the other hand, my colleague thinks that since there is a bit of condensate in the exchanger, it's enough to consider it a liquid case and use the liquid state calculation.
What do you think?
I just found out about rachet extensions that limit the amount of torque that can be applied to a nut/bolt and I was wondering if there was something similar that could be used with an air compressor while inflating tires. I don't care if this is mechanical or electrically controlled but ideally they would be adjustable or inexpensive enough to buy a few different limiters. I was envisioning something similar to the over pressure relief valve but maybe working "backwards" where instead of releasing air when over pressure, the pressure in the tire would push the air passage closed which would stop any new air coming into the tire.
I tried searching for this but didn't find anything, it may have been that I don't really know what the name is of the chuck that is used to fill tires. I could only think it could be called a schrader valve filling chuck but I expect it may have a different name. Could someone please share what the proper name is for this part?
So I got my expansion tank replaced yesterday after I began hearing a banging noise inside the walls after toilets were being flushed. Plumber came out and found the expansion tank needed to be replaced. Well today, I come out to the garage and find the T&P relief valve leaking. Called same company to come back and they say it failed "due to high water pressure coming from house" and quoted $400 to replace it. They also said they had to repipe as it wasn't up to code (picture attached).
Could the failing T&P valve be related to the expansion tank being replaced? I find it very strange it started failing right after this.
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From Sprott’s PSLV homepage: the Trusts store their precious metals in custody with the Royal Canadian Mint, a Federal Crown Corporation of the Government of Canada. There is no levered financial institution between the unitholders and the Trusts' physical bullion and no risk of financial loss in the event of a bankruptcy or nationalization of the financial institution.
No risk of loss in the event of bankruptcy or nationalization? WTH are they priming the pump for here? And how could this possibly be no risk!?
It’s also very strange to me that I see overwhelmingly positive news on the web about PSLV. Would this be the case if this fund was supposedly taking the already scarce silver off the market? Isn’t this allegedly going to bring down the biggest banks that have been shorting silver?Separately, I can’t find hardly a single positive article on GameStop......
The FUD campaign here seems to be pumping PSLV, why?
