Wood shingle Puns

I’m about to get my first quote today to put siding over my wood shingles. What questions do I need to be prepared to ask the contractor?

Attached are some pics of the current wood shingles. Even though the paint is severely peeling, the shingles appear to be in pretty good shape.

Alternatively, should I hire someone to do a full scrape/paint job?

House was built in 1941 and is 810 sq feet.

Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/OzcacCt

We have a woodpecker that comes by a few times a day to snack on whatever is in the wood shingles on the side of the house. I do not want to hurt it but its causing some serious damage. Any ideas?

Looking for some advice on two roof related situations:

1. Replace roof? The wood shingle roof is 18 years old (based on permit history for house). This made home insurance company queasy in 2020 (I was changing insurance during wildfires, and the underwriting was up in the air for a week), which made me put changing the roof on my medium term home maintenance plan. However, by my understanding I should still have 7-10 years of life left on this roof.

My time to break even on solar is longer than usual because of partially shaded roof; does this affect the cost-benefit analysis on early roof replacement?

If I do replace the roof, are there roof types particularly good for solar?

2. I also need to punch a new exhaust for a vent hood in the near future for the kitchen. What should I do with the solar install if I can't manage to get this done before starting solar? Get the vent contractor to guesstimate where the vent will come out, and tell the solar installer to avoid it, and hope for the best, is the best I can figure (but has some execution risk still, and likely requires me to pick the vent hood ASAP so I know the routing requirements). Or is it possible for the solar company to lay 80% of the panels, turn on service so I can take the tax credits, and come back later?

What I've found so far, any feedback on any of them is appreciated.

https://www.elitepaintingkansascity.com/exterior-painting/

https://kcneighborhoodpainting.com/wood-rot-repair/

https://greatplainspaintingkc.com/

Thanks for any help.

Hey guys. I have 1958 home with what I believe to be the original cedar shingles. Our plan going forward is to have them professionally replaced with hardy plank siding, but it'll be 2-3 years before we can afford something like that (unless we absolutely have to do it sooner, in which we can use credit).

At any rate, there is a certain exterior wall on my house with what appears to be a high amount of cracking, splitting shingles. Living in the rainy pacific NW, this worries me. What I'm hoping to do is caulk all of the cracks and paint to help keep things waterproofed for the next few years until we can have everything redone. I'm attaching a photo to show the severity: https://imgur.com/a/hrB6Fq6

Is caulking and painting a reasonable temporary solution, or am I wasting my time? If this is the right solution, is there a specific caulk I should be using? I imagine some sort of exterior paintable silicone, yes?

Thank you greatly for any help!!

Edit: thanks for the feedback everyone. People saying asbestos siding. What’s odd is that the backside of the shingles look like wood. Wood grain, splits like wood, and not a fiber-like material. Either way, I’ll treat it like asbestos since everyone sounds pretty confident. Thanks!

what's the advantage of wood shingles instead of just flat planks?

I'm having my roof replaced right now, and the project manager just called me and said I have to replace all the plywood on my roof and it will be an extra $2,800. I came home and they showed me the one piece they removed that was pretty damaged, but I looked at the roof and could see it was the piece where I was having a leak. Do they really need to replace all the wood, or are they just trying to up charge?

Edit: The results. I ended up replacing all the wood. The house was built in 1976 and had the original 3/8" plywood with the rafters 24" apart. The main reason is they had to replace all wood with 1/2" plywood to meet code and I wasn't sure if the roof would look even. I was replacing the roof because I started getting leaks at one side of the house, so there were a decent amount of pieces that needed to be replaced. That in addition to the bad pieces here and there I felt like the best thing to do was to replace them all. I also live in the northeast and we do get a modest amount of snow. Also, I don't believe they were trying to upcharge me. They only charged $50 a sheet and I know each sheet probably costed $35, so not a ton of profit when you consider labor. I think their main motivation was they guarantee their work for 10 years and replacing all the plywood would make issues later on much less likely. Either way, I'm still glad I was able to question them instead of just accepting the additional work to clear my conscious. I would like to thank everyone here for your quick responses and helping me seem like I knew more about roofing than I actually did. The owner of the company actually had to come out and look at the job and talk to me. In the end I'm happy with the outcome and think replacing all the wood was the best decision. Thanks again. Let me know if you think I made the right decision or not.

I have a Little Free Library (book sharing box) that needs some help in the areas of weather-resistance & appearance. I'd like to have some kind of siding, wood shakes/shingles, etc. put on.

It's about 3 feet high, 20 inches wide, and 8 inches deep. Need to cover 2 sides, the back, & the roof. (The front is OK.)

I will either reimburse you for materials or you give me a list & I'll get them. (Or if you have leftovers from a whole-house job, I'll consider them.) The wood shakes/shingles were recommended as being less expensive than siding & easier to apply.

I've tried contacting some siding installers in the Milwaukee area, but they don't respond. This is a really small project, and probably fairly quick work if you know what you're doing. I don't.

Working on an old house (80+yrs old) and needed to fix some areas of exterior siding that were behind dog ears. This included using some wood hardener (used Minwax High Performance Wood Hardener). I read the directions carefully and saw that it would ruin my paintbrush, so I <stupidly> poured some into a plastic cup so I could just throw it out when I was done. 3 minutes later I'm realizing there is a hole in the cup because the hardener had eaten through the plastic (nowhere on the packaging does it indicate this stuff is caustic but maybe that was common sense?). I was working on the siding from the inside of a window, so I just tossed the cup out into my lawn to prevent it from spilling inside my house. However on its way to the lawn, some hardener spilled from the cup onto the small roof awning just below the window.

Fast forward a week, and the hardener has stained the dark grey shingles on the roof awning to a near-white color. It looks terrible so I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to make it look better without simply replacing the affected shingles (which would likely require replacing ALL of the shingles). Perhaps some sort of specialized spray paint? Thanks!

House is in South San Francisco. Built in the 50s with an addition (built in 70s) with wood shingle siding:

https://imgur.com/oEXayG1

On the side that faces the sun the shingles are in poor shape and rather loose. The other two sides look fine to my eye though the edge at the corner isn't great:

https://imgur.com/GoeYIW8

https://imgur.com/75B2GTF

https://imgur.com/WySaat8

Questions:

• Is replacing with stucco the best approach here or is it cheaper/better to fix the shingles?

• Would it look bad to just stucco one wall but leave the rest of the siding? not sure how they could make the corner work.

• If I go all the way around with stucco I have this deck on the other side - it's attached to concrete on the ground and screwed into the siding - is removing it and reattaching it a reasonable option or too risky to ask a stucco business to do?

https://imgur.com/4e8kIaR

https://imgur.com/lh72JWt

https://imgur.com/M7a25BG

https://imgur.com/AEKLTzR

https://imgur.com/TVWQ3gJ

I was working on my roof the other day fixing an area of wood root. I started by using minwax wood hardener to get a firm base. Some accidently spilled on my shingles. Didn't think to much of it as I thought it would just harden. I got back from work today after it had rained and it looks like I took bleach to my dark shingles. There is a giant white spot with other small white spots around it. Anyone know how I should fix this?

Hello, I'm looking for some advice on how to finish this gazebo with wood shingles. Specifically, how do i curve them over the hip rafters? The cedar shingles are 1/4" at their thickest, so beveling and nailing them together to make ridge caps seems out of the question. Another idea i had is to boil and cup some of the wider shingles. Aesthetically, this seems like the best option, but I'm concerned about the shingles unbending and pulling themselves out over time.

What would you do?

Thank you!

Reference image

My dad has some areas of his roof that are completely shaded by his neighbors trees and has some moss/lichen growing on his wood shingles.

I've put those zinc strips on an asphalt roof before so I'm wondering if theres anything I should look out for that's different on a wood roof. For example, normally I'd seal the holes from the anchor with a black asphalt like sealer, but that's not gonna work here.

Edit: pictures:

https://i.imgur.com/14I3my8.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EbxT5dK.jpg

I’m playing on the switch and i haven’t had any luck with traveling merchants for days. If anyone has extra dynasty wood & shingles it’d be a lifesaver