A list of puns related to "Steel Frame"
So holidays coming and my mind has started wondering what frames I should treat myself to in the prime zone I don't have (and that is a good amount) so what can I look for getting for solo steel path stuff?
Hey all, just wanted to let everyone know about the knivesplus QSP penquin exclusives. I just found them and I had picked up the s35vn version before and they are awesome value for money.
https://www.knivesplus.com/qsp-penguin-knife-satin-m390-sheepfoot-blue-denim-micarta-liner-lock-qs130-kp4.html
Every new steel road frame I can find seems to either be a) made more for casual riding eg. probably not very light/stiff, or b) made by some boutique company costing thousands for a frame and fork.
I used to have a Lemond Croix de Fer that was really nice but Lemond doesnβt exist anymore. Are there any companies still making reasonable steel race frames?
Sorry if this is a dumb question - just found myself really intrigued by vintage steel frame bikes these days and I'm trying to wrap my head around this.
What makes a vintage steel frame high quality? I see 30-40 year old Bianchi frames going for almost a thousand dollars, meanwhile other random no-name steelies are going for $100 used and completely set up with components. Is there anything other than the nostalgia/prestige factor that contributes to this? Is the difference in materials and workmanship really that much better? Thanks in advance.
I'm looking for a welder to build the frame and rollbar on a pulling tractor (Mild Steel DOM tube), and I'm wondering what welder should use. I plan to use a MIG welder because they are easy, but will a lincoln pig pak 180 be powerful enough to make a strong weld on this application? if not what welder should I use?
I'm looking to create the frame for a kitchen table from steel tubing such as this:
but I'm unsure of the best/cheapest way to connect the steel tubes together at the angles/corners.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
I'm very new so currently have no metalworking gear!
Are you aware of any? Thanks y'all.
Howdy, I've been thinking about buying a steel frame 9mm for a while and I was wondering what people's experiences and opinions were on a few. Specifically the CZ 75 BD, Beretta 92, and Sig P226. I'm leaning the most towards the CZ. I'm quite partial to older designs as well as Slavic designs... But, I love all three in theory.
Recently watched a video, where a bike Ingenieur gave a breakdown of all materials (alloy, carbon, titanium and steel) and he said, that steel is a pretty good material for bikes. It isnβt as light as carbon, however it does flex pretty good while being stiff and resistant. How come, that carbon frames are that popular, while steel isnβt really (in all segments)?
hi all,
i'm on my way to build one of this pretty machine and i wonder how to make it as close to perfect alignement when building it.
don't find that much informations about that, i've seen expoxy leveling wich i'm not a big fan, think about bringing the steel pieces to grind but what about the price
is there any cheap/smart way to set my frame as good as it can be?
I've been riding my Dad's 1981 Miyata touring bike for the past ~15 years, even commuting my own son to preschool on it this past fall. (This same model)
On a ride to school a few weeks back I noticed a strange noise, like each push on the pedals was causing the frame or bottom bracket to creak. When I started trying to mess around with the bike, something happened with the chain and derailleur, and the next test ride caused the chain to lock up completely. I realized the derailleur was pushing into the back cassette and the chain was totally stuck.
When I took the bike to the local shop, I learned that the derailleur hanger has become bent, to the extent that its not repairable. They claimed that bending it back will cause metal stress and could jeopardize the bike.
However, I've read a few things online about bending steel frame hangers back, and so I'm wondering if it can be done. (singletrackworld post). I did try just with a pliers and getting leverage, but couldn't budge it by hand.
So I have three questions:
Many thanks for your input
Photo taken upsidedown, with back wheel and derailleur removed
https://preview.redd.it/ofd0ojzu5la81.jpg?width=3456&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bf17e24982fa7435e6a5aba2022877bf240056b9
Thanks for all the help guys! Will definitely be looking into options for a rebuild!
Hey all, relatively new Jericho owner here and trying it to get setup for duty carry. Any recommendations for upgrades, especially triggers and to make lefty hand carry easier? I currently ordered a set of lok grips for it to help out there and Im running a sig p226 holster from safariland to hold it rn (needed some mods to work). I've heard about using trangfolio/EAA parts especially for ambi safetys. Im also looking at Solely candian for a better holster. Also looking at patriot defense to get slide work done to mount a red dot, any experience with how well a red dot goes on a slide for these? Thanks any info would be great, been all over the internet for months trying to get my gun setup and Im glad to find this subreddit. Love my gun to death, she's sturdy and an absolute tack driver up to 25 yards, and I got her for like 400$.
My LBS attempted to change my headset... And both cups basically pushed right into the 1" headtube. While the old headset was installed, the fork rocked back and forth. They say the frame is pretty well finished.
I'm not usually inclined to go against a mechanic's expertise but I can't help wondering if there might be a solution. I guess I'm not ready to give up on my frame just yet.
I'm planning to order some retaining compound, but I don't know which one to get. I also read it might be possible to use a tool to expand the diameter of the cups slightly, is this worth attempting?
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