A list of puns related to "Standpipe"
This was in a low rise apartment and it barely had a fire sprinkler system. Weβre talking a few heads in some rooms and a few FHCs.
Anyways there was a Standpipe Low pressure trouble. Turns out the jockey pump was turned off. We put it back into auto (the three settings being on, off or auto) and the pump turned on for about 2 seconds and stopped. We checked the trouble and it was gone. Thatβs it. Since the jockey pump only turned on for 2 second, there couldnβt have been more than a few PSI of a difference?
-Is a few psi (1-5psi) enough to trigger a standpipe low pressure trouble? -if the jockey pump being off causes a lower pressure, that means the system is slowly leaking somewhere, is this normal?
4 months in, learning as I go. Thanks guys.
Every time I train someone in how to do it, I get the inevitable question of why it is called "shipping".
Does anyone know the origin of the term?
I saw something online a while ago (maybe a year or so) where a ecc connected to a buildings sprinkler system as a water source after getting a bad hydrant.
I donβt remember the exact details or where i saw the post. Has anyone ever done something similar? I wanted to look into this more.
Images here: https://imgur.com/a/X2QWqSs
There's a huge crack in the P-Trap for our standpipe that leaks like a sieve. My attempt at Googling and youtubing suggests that I can just replace this one part, which I believe is called a J-bend: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-22-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Brass-Sink-Drain-J-Bend-P-Trap-C2651-1/205153939
My current plan is to figure out the diameter and material (it's some sort of metal, not sure what kind) for my current J-bend, then attempt to swap it out. Or in other words, I'm going to keep the parts labeled "keep" in the image above and will try to only replace the part marked "replace".
Is this the right plan?
Hi folks,
I have your typical washing machine setup with it draining into a PVC standpipe -> p trap -> drain line. It has worked fine for the past year and a half or so but recently i'm noticing a musty smell coming from the pipe intermittently. It doesn't have the usual sewer gas smell and i'm pretty sure the trap isn't drying up on its own. I think after a year and a half of use the pipe has built up some bacteria/mould/general funkyness that is starting to smell not great. What would be a good way to clean out the standpipe? I'm thinking maybe pouring some bleach directly into the pipe but would something else work better?
Iβm thinking of buying a property and saw that the leach field standpipe is leaning alarmingly. Has anyone seen this before? Does it mean the septic system is definitely fucked? The property is a tear down that hasnβt been lived in for a couple years, and definitely wasnβt being maintained before that, so I have no idea if it works.
Thanks for your insight.
I've been looking around to see if there's any information on piping a laundry standpipe straight into the liberty 405 pump - couldn't find anything. I'm going to be tieing in a utility sink into the pump as well but I would prefer to build a little manifold at the pump to accept both drains. I've seen some random forum's saying a "recommended" install for the liberty 404 is to put a laundry hose into a slop sink which ties into the pump. The 405 is a commercial grade bigger, badder pump so I was hoping it could handle a direct standpipe drain without reducing any performance or issues.
2007 6.0 F250. Lost oil pressure, changing out standpipes and dummy plugs. Sure enough the orings are chewed up so get maybe it'll run when we're done... Except the passenger side standpipe (bottom half) won't come out. It'll wiggle, it'll pop up and down a few millimeters, but she ain't goin nowhere.
Wrapped the top part in tape and shoved it back in so it'd hold on to the bottom and pull it out. Lots of tries, no joy. Needlenose, no joy. Pulled the oil rail and repeated, nothing. Put an expanding wall anchor in and cranked it up then yanked on it...nope. Got a length of 12ga Mechanic's wire around the end of a small set of vice grips and cranked them down on the sidewall of the pipe, then put the other end of the wire around a prybar that we both grabbed and heaved on. The wire broke. Repeated with two lengths of wire instead of one and now it's just ripping the vice grips off. Talked to the dealership and they have no ideas.
Kinda feel like the orings are hardened like rock refusing to come out. Last time I had something like this (crank angle sensor on a van) I had to hook a chain to it and my trucks ball to get it out and that one took a couple of yanks from the diesel before it released but this round it's on my truck so it can't pull and I don't have a straight shot at the thing anyway.
Any idea wtf to do now? I've got some wedge anchors and chain I'm eyeing but not sure a couple of humans can match the ass necessary to pull this damn thing even if I got it hooked so it wouldn't slip.
First post, sorry if I violate any rules.
I bought a house with these white vertical posts in the basement in it.
There is also a sump pump in the basement probably because the city sewage is above the basement floor.
My questions are:
Note that the previous owner had connected a washing machine outlet to this pipe, but the previous owner also did a bunch of things wrong so I am wondering if this was also done wrong.
Thank you.
Designing a sprinkler & class I standpipe system for a mixed use building in MA. It has an office on the first floor and 2 multi-level dwelling units from floors 2-5. The highest that the common area stairwell goes is the 3rd floor. From there, the only stairs up are convenience stairs within the individual dwelling units. Do the stair landings for these convenience stairs need hose connections? Or in this case does the standpipe need to only go to the 3rd floor landing of the common stairwell?
780 CMR and NFPA 14 both seem to indicate that a hose connection is needed at all floor landings for interior exit stairs but I canβt find whether or not convenience stairs within a dwelling unit qualify as that.
Thank you for your help!
tl;dr: old house w/ 1.5" standpipe/drain, water overflows almost immediately from washer drain cycle. Are the pipes too small? Can I install a utility sink or some kind of in-line buffer?
https://imgur.com/a/hNfx38k Hey all thanks in advance for reading. I bought an old house and there was no washer/dryer hooked up until I just bought one (an old stacking unit, probably from the 90s). The guy who installed it went to test the drain cycle and you could hear it almost immediately start to back up and overflow. He said it was that the old pipes were too small. They measure about 1.9" outside diameter, so I'm assuming these are what people refer to as 1.5".
I don't think there's a clog since you can see the newly installed black pvc standpipe, but maybe they were lazy and didn't check before? I also shoved a 3' toilet auger down from the drain box, but whos to say if I even really cleared the p-trap. Please advise on my options; as I see it I could:
A) try to remove that painted over cleanout cap (can you use a regular wrench for those?) and/or pay someone to really make sure it's not clogged.
B) remove standpipe and try to rotate p-trap joint to the other side so that I can install a utility sink as a draining buffer. is this even possible?
C) is there some kind of resevoir or in-line buffer I can do? I've heard you shouldn't put flow restrictors on because they can damage the pump.
D) pay the big big money and have all new 2" pipes put in. I'm really hoping it doesn't come to that.
Any and all help appreciated. Thank you all for everything you do for this community.
I donβt understand what this is for. Is it for intake? Opposite of intake?
Why doesnβt this company provide directions, or have them available on website?
Hey so I finally got around to putting this on Thingiverse but I designed a 3d printable Standpipe and uniseal adapter. It's designed to match the OD of 1in/25mm PVC pipe. The 4 I have been using for the last year have worked with no problems. Even with multiple failed prints it is still cheaper than buying all of the PVC and adapters a traditional one needs.
Hopefully someone else's finds this useful too. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4859123
https://imgur.com/gallery/Rgpj1jz
Hello. Iβve recently moved into a new place. Itβs a renovated home from the 60βs and apparently has old plumbing still. I have ZERO plumbing experience/background but have tried to learn. However no one mentions a standpipe this small and after doing some online research Iβm not sure what to do. I havenβt tried running the washing machine yet because it just looks like a overflow disaster waiting to happen.
I have a Whirlpool HE washer which uses reduced amounts of water but the hose wonβt fit in the pipe unless I shaved the threads down. Doesnβt there need to be air in the pipe? I know 2β is standard now. I assume I would risk damaging the washer because of siphoning action if there was no room for air to be released, right?
Does it make sense to contact a plumber and have him install a P trap and a 3β standpipe for buffer? Will I be looking drainage issues regardless since it looks like the pipe goes vertically by like a foot to get to the main drain?
The pics show the pipes and how close the laundry room is to the kitchen/main drain. Also, the house is built in on slab so I assume the piping goes into it. Idk.
TL;DR: Drain pipe overflows into garage, water spreads, uh oh. How can I manage water spreading in case of a clog?
I have a washer drain hose going down a standpipe in my garage, with the top of the drain pipe approximately 3 feet off the garage floor. Very much a standard configuration. As the rest of the house is up on a foundation, this is the lowest point where water can come out in case of a clog (below sink/tub drains).
Root cause is nice and clear - we have pipes that sometimes clog down the line. Snaking them myself typically resolves the problem. I've been able to find good info on solving this part of the problem already.
That said, a puddle of water spreading across the garage into a storage area is generally our first alert, requiring rapid cleanup and a lot of drying.
Can anyone please provide advice on how to better contain the water so we can deal with the drain problem (snake the line) and not need to dry out a large section of the garage and the stuff located there? Redneck engineering accepted, but first class solution preferred.
I'm also looking into leak detectors to alert us as soon as something happens instead of a couple hours later when we move the laundry.
Hi Folks,
My house (in Nebraska) came with a basin for the washing machine drain. See picture #1.
That isn't terribly problematic, except that the basin empties into what seems to be a faulty floor drain. The floor drain likes to overflow, either due to being clogged or not being vented properly. I've tried all of the standard fixes, plus a few "creative" ones I dreamed up. There doesn't seem to be a cleanout for this drain, just like every other fixture that came with the house. The cleanout in the stack doesn't seem to reach back to this floor drain. Frankly, I have no idea where this thing drains and that kind of scares me.
Fixing a floor drain would probably be very expensive, and I'm not crazy about this setup anyway. However, my waste stack is conveniently located nearby. See picture #2.
I want to install a standpipe in the stack. I think my cleanout is somewhat awkwardly placed for this. See picture #3. It's a little high on the stack. I believe the pump on the washer should be able to overcome this. A standard solution would be picture #4, perhaps with a shorter standpipe.
If I had a high efficiency washer, I'd probably just install the standpipe and be done with it. However, I can't help but think that my basin is somehow necessary for this washing machine. If I were to elevate it and shorten the standpipe, I think it would siphon just fine. See Picture #5.
Which one should I choose? Should I modify it from my diagrams?
Any thoughts or guidance on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
John
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