Can be a midpoint reversal or just a plain Jane 180 plot turn anywhere in the film.
I’ve tried to develop a role of double 8 film today. Fomapan b&w reversal film. I think I mixed everything right, and the temperatures were also correct.
But when everything was done, my film came out totally clear? Like no black/grey parts at all.
Also, in the re-exposure step, I didn’t see any images either?
What could I have done wrong? The film has been in the camera for a few months and the chemicals (the kit from Fomapan themselves) is also a couple of months old.
Thanks!
I collect vintage E6/ color reversal film slides. They usually come from someone's personal collection of film they took first hand that was donated or sold. I will usually find them at estate sales, antique stores, yard sales, or flea markets.
I am traveling to Ireland in a few weeks and I'm trying to find any leads on what type of shops might sell these. "Antique store" does not seem to mean the same caliper of items, and is too fancy. Estate sales are too high- end. I haven't been able to find any flea markets, and I wouldn't even know if yard sales are a thing.
Does anyone have any recommendations on where I could buy second hand slides in ireland? Or even any advice on keywords I could use to search around? I know this is sort of off topic, but it feels analog related!!!
I'm prety new to analog Photography (bought a Minolta X-700 about 3 Months ago) and wanted to start scanning films myself.This only hardened when I learned 2 days ago, that my grandpa loved photography when he was younger (he is actually 84 now) and I would love to digitalize his 400+ slides (idk, these "reversal film" things..we call them "Dia" in germany).I actually looked at many threads and learned, that I'm propably pretty good off with one of the Plustek OpticScan XXXX, but which one (version) and do you have any other reccomendations?I really want to get the best scanner I can get, so my grandpas and mine pictures come out as good as possible (there still is a price cap at about 350€ for me)
Edit: Thanks for the help :) just bought a 8200i SE
Hello! So the studio I work with is looking into stepping into colour film developing, specifically Ektachrome (we’d like to have an original positive print). We’ve previously developed Kodak Tri-X Reversal 7266 successfully. Here’s what I’d like to ask:
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Where can I find a Ektachrome developing kit?
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Where can I find the recipe for making the developer and fixer from scratch myself? If someone has a link to this, I would be very grateful if you dropped it in the comments or via private message!
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Has anyone here had success with hand-developing 16/8mm ektachrome? How was the process and any tips?
Thank you!!
Hi everyone I posted this on another sub but I just wanted to get as many opinions as possible :)
“Best Color Reversal Film?
Hey guys so I just joined this sub and I was wondering if anyone knows of the best color reversal film (35mm)? I’m informally shooting a wedding and I wanted to gift the positives that the camera produces to the bride.
I looked it up and found that Kodak has color plus film but I wasn’t sure if that was the same thing. Also I kept seeing that color reversal is a slide film (I’m not very familiar with slide film tbh).
Anyways all recommendations are welcome, whether color reversal or any high quality color film good for weddings!!
*I should mention I’m not taking pics with this during the actual ceremony, or at least that’s not the bulk of the pictures, mostly portraits
PLEASE let me know if I need to clarify anything, I’m sorry if this post is all over the place, I wrote it really quickly
Thanks!!!”
I'm scanning some old Super 8 films and noticed what looks like cracks in the emulsion. You will probably have to zoom in to see them. What might this be? I'm hoping it could just be dirt, or could this actually be cracks in the emulsion?
I have run the film through a microfibre cloth with film cleaner and the "cracks" remain. I may not have been thorough with the cleaning though.
You can see them throughout the entire image, but they are particularly noticeable in areas like the sky. Note how some of the ones in the frame below appear to catch the light.
The film is probably Kodachrome 40, shot in 1977. I think it was only viewed once and then never taken out of Kodak's return envelop until I've scanned it.
https://preview.redd.it/hck818z0dtc71.jpg?width=4056&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d7135a72a31fd5b6d7e24fa5a53a5ef867e5f425
I just got my first roll of 16mm Tri-X 400, in 16mm. What are some tips for metering. I'm shooting at 24fps and 32fps, so I'll double the frame rate on my light meter. Since its reversal however, should I be exposing for shadow? highlights? What have you guys discovered about Tx400 from your experiences? Thanks!
For those of you using or wanting to use Kodak's Ektachrome color reversal (7294) Super 8 film, here's a few tricks I've learned! The new stock is rated as 100 ASA out of the box. However, many of us using this reversal film have discovered it's way too dark without some exposure compensation. This film exposes better at 80 ASA. At this rating the colors, contrast, and sharpness are perfect! I have used several different cameras and here's what I've done in the past. If your camera recognizes the 100 ASA speed entice, then only 1/2 stop more light is needed to expose the stock properly. If your camera only recognizes this stock at the 160 ASA entice, then you will need to open the aperture by 1 full stop. I recently used a Minolta Autopak 8 D6 that rates this stock as 160 ASA. One stop more light resulted in perfect exposure projected! Hope some of this will help others who are not sure about this newer color reversal film. If your looking to find out what Super 8 can produce on the big screen this is the stock to use. yes it's expensive, but well worth the price when your filming special events, family, friends, etc.
So I've been searching for answers for a while now and just can't seem to track down the answer: I'm just getting started with working with 8mm film and I really want to be able to shoot, develop and scan what I'm working on by myself, mostly out of sheer curiosity about the process and also because I want to add a personal touch to the project I'm working on (even though I'm fully prepared for it to look like ass compared to a professional service)
I'm kinda hitting a wall here though: I don't know what chemicals I'll need to start the development process. I already have a Lomo UPB-1a development tank, and from what I'm seeing the Arista Rapid E-6 Developing kit looks like what I'll need, but it only mentions 35mm or 120 color transparency film. Would it work for 8mm color reversal film? Or is there a special set of chemicals to be on the lookout for? Any help is extremely appreciated.
P.S. if it helps I'm currently using a few rolls of Cine8 100D film, Kahl UT-18 and some expired rolls of Kodachrome ( which I think is reversal film?)
Hi guys,
The other day I found out that we still have thousands of reversal film slides in the family, which have never been digitalised. But I'm not really sure how to best go about starting this process, and would really appreciate some advice from you guys on this.
I think it may have to do with the low iso, but I’ve developed my black and white film recently and a lot of the photos are severely underexposed, but when held under the light, they appear to be film positives, not negatives. There was no modifications done to the processing whatsoever.
I bought a Canon 514XL recently, absolutely love the camera and whenever I used Kodak Vision3 50D film stock it seems to have worked beautifully - 2 days ago I tried my first cartridge of Kodak TRI-X B&W Reversal Film and started to notice towards the last 20ft of the cartridge a weird issue where it sounded like the motor was slowing down during roll.
At first I thought maybe my batteries had drained so replaced them and experienced the same issue. When looking through the viewfinder and seeing the "gate" flicker it was crawling along and certainly not rolling at 18fps. Checked the frame rate settings on the camera and it hadn't changed from 18fps to 9fps.
The Tri-X cartridge was almost done so I figured maybe there was an issue with the cartridge but today I tried shooting with a Kodak Ektachrome Reversal film cartridge and experienced exactly the same issue. What leads me to believe there may be an issue with the Reversal Film is that it worked so well with the Kodak 50D cartridge and even now when the camera is empty the motor appears to run perfectly. I'll be trying a Kodak 500T roll later tonight to see if I encounter the same motor issues.
I'm at a loss as to what the problem was, has anyone else had a similar issue with Reversal Film in general or if it could be specific to this model of camera.
Hey guys so I just joined this sub and I was wondering if anyone knows of the best color reversal film (35mm)? I’m informally shooting a wedding and I wanted to gift the positives that the camera produces to the bride.
I looked it up and found that Kodak has color plus film but I wasn’t sure if that was the same thing. Also I kept seeing that color reversal is a slide film (I’m not very familiar with slide film tbh).
Anyways all recommendations are welcome, whether color reversal or any high quality color film good for weddings!!
*I should mention I’m not taking pics with this during the actual ceremony, or at least that’s not the bulk of the pictures, mostly portraits
PLEASE let me know if I need to clarify anything, I’m sorry if this post is all over the place, I wrote it really quickly
Thanks!!!
