Hi! I wanted to cook vegan meat alternatives (similar to beyond and impossible meat). In this video ( https://youtu.be/GliUw9GjVxA ) autor was recommending to use methyl cellulose. Unfortunately, in my country, it is hard to get it food grade. Is CMC a good alternative? Is it as safe to use as methylcelulose?
I've been following DASBookbindings video on how to make it and I've run across a few problems. Whenever I try to mix it, it turns clumpy/yellow and won't dissolve.
My only thoughts are maybe I didn't have it hot enough, or got the wrong methyl cellulose
I was looking into methyl celluloses properties and was surprised to see that its water soluble, why is that? I would figure taking the already insoluble cellulose and replacing its hydrophilic hydroxyl groups with hydrophilic methoxide groups would make it less soluble not more.
I have no chemistry background, but I’ve been working with methylcellulose in recipes. It’s used as a binding agent in meat analogs like the Beyond and Impossible burgers. When used successfully, MC creates a viscous emulsion of liquid & fat that holds proteins together; it’s the “glue” of the veggie burger. However, I have never been able to consistently get the emulsion correct. I always make a liquid mix (~700g of veggie broth, tamari and other liquids), disperse 50g of MC in it, and slowly blend in 300g of coconut oil. When it works, it works great! But I can only get it to emulsify about 50% of the time. I’ve tried various speeds of blending, different temperatures of liquid, different ratios, and I can’t figure out what the deciding factor is. Let me know if I’m in the right place, I don’t know who else to ask!
Hey all. I've recently been diagnosed with food sensitivities, and one of the things the report said I was sensitive to was E460, Cellulose. It was listed as "Cellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose powder".
Does this mean I have to avoid everything with Cellulose, or Microcrystalline Cellulose specifically?
The reason I ask is, I see some products with Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose in them and I've avoided it as it said Cellulose, but are they the same? Am I OK to have this?
Sorry if it's a silly question. I've been diagnosed with sensitivities to all sorts of things so finding it a struggle to find stuff I can eat.
Thank you.
Hey I want to make liters of fake cum using methyl cellulose. Now there are three different kinds:
Methyl cellulose
Methyl cellulose F50
Carboxyl methyl cellulose (CMC)
Which one should I buy for fake cum? Are the first two ones the same? Thank youuu
Where can i buy such a solution in Europa? Anyone knows?
( https://www.reddit.com/r/tressless/comments/em4u5b/head_to_head_comparison_of_all_delivery_methods/)
https://snipboard.io/FapG7J.jpg
http://www.eurekaselect.com/159336/article
Direct link to paper
https://www41.zippyshare.com/v/W6RVHAUl/file.html
I am having trouble finding where to buy methyl cellulose, does anyone use it and have any advice?
*edit: also I am looking for a Canadian retailer to avoid costs of shipping from the states
The slimy, gooey appearance of an appropriate preparation of methyl cellulose with water, in addition to its nontoxic, nonallergenic, and edible properties, makes it popular for use in special effects for motion pictures and television wherever vile slimes must be simulated. In the film Ghostbusters, the gooey substance the supernatural entities used to “slime” the Ghostbusters was mostly a thick water solution of methyl cellulose. The Aliens ooze and drip a great deal of methyl cellulose—especially the queen.
Methyl cellulose has been used to safely simulate molten materials, as well. In several of the Terminator films, it was back-lit with colored gels and films to reproduce the heated glow of iron in the large pouring ladles used to transport the metal from the smelting ovens to the various molds and forms. Methyl cellulose was also a stand-in for the lava flows in Los Angeles in Volcano and on the volcanic surface of Mustafar, in Star Wars: Episode III – Revenge of the Sith.
Sick of inadequate papers so I'm finally looking to get some methyl cellulose. But it is much more pricier than I thought:
[Ebay: $131] (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Lineco-Methyl-Cellulose-Adhesive-30ml-bottle-Free-Shipping/182588199787?epid=17012077977&hash=item2a831ad36b:g:sasAAOSw~G1ZzSqm)
[Amazon: $70] (https://www.amazon.com.au/METHYL-CELLULOSE-ADHESIVE-NEUTRAL-ARCHIVAL170/dp/B07CGFJXF7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1530509446&sr=8-1&keywords=methyl+cellulose)
Both are for seemingly tiny amounts.
Where do you get your methyl cellulose? What am I supposed to look for? I live in Australia.
Thanks for your help!
At the place I work we have been experimenting with some new recipes and trying out some stuff to build a foundation for future trials. One of the things we have tried is the Coconut steam bun from Jose Andres.
The type of methyl cellulose we are using is Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (Methocel F50) I dont know if this has an effect on the outcome or not. The result of the tests are watery and dissappear when steamed. Any insights would be appreciated.
i plan to really start investing into book binding, and that includes experimenting with marbling some as ebru and suminagashi, but i really wanna know if there's any big differences between carrageenan and cmc to make the "size"(? idk if this the correct spelling), i'm Brazilian, so CMC is much more accessible and easy to find then carragenan, but i really wanna know if it makes much of a big difference in the result for one to the other.
There are a few one-off soft drink syrups we want to send out through the conventional restaurant fountain system, a 5:1 post-mix just like the Coke and the Sprite and whatever.
Let's say coconut-lime. Because that is one of them. Lime juice is not a problem but coconut milk, no matter how we filter it, settles to the bottom of the concentrate. It doesn't taste different but it makes the soft drink look milky which is not acceptable.
How can we keep this stuff from settling? We have stabilizers and I'm not too proud to use them, we have methyl cellulose and several things that end in "gum" which I've never really used. But I don't want to create some viscous solution that won't mix with the carbonated water well.
Any ideas?
[wall of text warning, I've never been good at condensing to less]
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My interest in finishes is more holistic: I enjoy traditional oil painting, ceramics and sculpture, dabbled in gesso and gilding, but I also like woodworking, leatherwork, and restoring old furniture and old machinery. All of these realms have their own paints and finishes and glues, and there's a lot of overlap. What do you use to enamel a cast iron antique sewing machine? How does that relate to how you'd prime a copper panel? There's some similarities shared to be sure!
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A guide to finishes: this whole thing is a question in the form of a statement.
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My own understanding is from some books and forums like this and not a scientific background, so by all means suggest edits and revisions where I've got something wrong, and reaffirm where I’ve got it correct.
When it’s all vetted I may make it a more embellished illustrated guide, or even a decision tree based on application.
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I continue to be frustrated, pardon the pun, at the relative opacity of the paint industry. What is an enamel, anyway? (rhetorical—as far as I can decipher, it’s just a term for a hard and inflexible paint and more marketing than an objectively defined class of paints).Or, what is an epoxy? Near as I can tell, it’s always a 2-part cured resin, and commonly could be a urethane or an acrylic. One annoying marketing exception: saw a spray can of “appliance epoxy” for $4 at the hardware store. If it’s in a spray can, it’s not an epoxy if we’re going by the 2-part definition… sigh. See what I mean about the confusion in labeling?
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I’m trying to break it down logically for myself to de-mystify the field, and then to share with others when edited and corrected. I’d like to understand, for example, the difference between a $40 can of alkyd-modified oil paint at home depot and a $120 can of alkyd-modified oil paint at Sherwin Williams. Are there more solids in the latter, longer molecular chains, expensive additives for UV resistance, something tangible? I don’t know, and the salesmen can never tell me either. There are artist-grade alkyd oil paints: are these compatible with the housepaint cans? If not, well, why not? Specifically why not?
I’d like to strike the balance to learning enough to be an informed consumer and user of these materials, without needing an 8 year Ph.D. in petroleum engineering and organic chemistry. BUT: I’m open to educating myself if you point me in the right direct
... keep reading on reddit ➡