I mean, metal alloys are mixtures of several elements, and sometimes have two or more metallic elements. Wouldn't galvanic corrosion affect this alloy on its own as there are dissimilar metals?
Bonus question I just thought of, we know how to calculate the galvanic index etc between two metal elements via their electronegativity/anodic potential etc.. How do we do that for alloys? For rough example, an alloy of 90%iron,10%tin that is in contact with copper; do we do weighted average for the alloy in comparison with the other dissimilar metal?
Long time lurker, first time poster and first time home buyer. Is this galvanic corrosion? This is a copper sewage pipe leading into a cast iron stack. I cannot break this cap free no matter how much heat or PB Blaster I apply to it. Does anyone have any suggestions for me to replace this with a new cap and prevent this from happening again? If it is galvanic corrosion, where would the electrical charge be coming from?
Some notes, I do not know what the cap is made of since It’s so corroded I can’t tell. I intend to replace with brass or PVC. Any advice or comments would be appreciated!
Servicing the pivot bearings on a 2018 YT Jeffsy I found that three of four bearings on the upper link were extremely "notchy". I removed the bearings (which were in the link much tighter than a normal interference fit) and, once removed, the notchy feeling went away and the races rotate smoothly.
Inspection of the bearing housing in the link revealed a significant layer of aluminum oxide in the bore. I gently sanded off the oxide with some 400 grit (taking care not to remove any metal), pressed the bearings back in (press fit felt good) and they now rotate nice and smooth.
The logical conclusion is that galvanic corrosion between the steel bearing race and aluminum link is "compressing" the outer race enough for the bearings to bind. I think I'm going to coat the bore with anti-seize before pressing in fresh bearings, but I'm curious if anyone else has run into a problem like this?
I noticed the metal posts that support my roof have these white marks appearing where aluminium has been attached to it. anywhere there's no horizontal bits attached there's no white residue, appreciate any advice cos I don't know what I'm looking at.
On the topic of washers (been trying find a copper 6mm sealing washer for an oil pan bolt and a copper 13mm crush washer for modified oil drain bolt)
The thought came into my head: could galvanic corrosion become an issue from rain? (At least in the 6mm washer which only gets taken off to remove oil pan)
When I was testing out what torque stops a leak on my newly drilled drain hole with water, a white substance appeared after leaving it a day. Unsure if we corrosion or just something in the water
Is galvanic corrosion an issue for permanent copper washers on cast aluminum blocks due to rain ect?
Today I noticed this horrible bright orange stains on my GPU block and active backplate. What the hell is this? Are the blocks fixable? I'm assuming this is everywhere but I can't really check the CPU block since it's full nickle.
My loop is running plain distilled water with PrimoChill Utopia. It's been around 2 months since I changed the fluid. I've been doing this for years but never had this before.
https://preview.redd.it/fixj7ndjdv571.jpg?width=1696&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=033284314684341b4bb07b687f9d5bf28b389b56
https://preview.redd.it/18lolulidv571.jpg?width=1772&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cf7ec3a06b27289e63eb2d0338b2ea47ed961419
UPDATE: Cleaned the GPU blocks and while the orange crap came out pretty easily, the nickel definitely looks stained.
https://preview.redd.it/lsv6t5gw5w571.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=52cdb0e195cd1c0baa0bbf814e2b3b612977f381
Does this confirm that issue is some kind of corrosion? Possibly Primochill Utopia reacting with the nickel plating?
Hey yall I just wanted to ask something here.
So I have everything I need for my custom loop, but the only problem I'm running into is a possibility of Galvanic Corrosion.
I'm running a copper/nickel CPU and GPU Waterblock, but have 2 360mm Aluminum radiators. I only learned about galvanic corrosion after the fact.
Seeing that AIOs have copper and aluminum mixed all the time, I'm tempted to continue on as is, but I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if the system did fail because it wasn't all copper.
On the note, is there any way (other than the coolant with its anti corrosion additives) to ensure the delay of galvanic corrosion? I have copper fittings too and was wondering if there was like an additive to make an ionised coat over the interior of the rad and other components so the corrosion can't take place?
Any help would be massively appreciated
I am working on a design that involves an interference fit between an investment casted gold shank and a machined aluminum 6061 hole. This would be exposed to the outside environment and possibly submerged in water.
Is a plating of some kind nessesary in this scenario?
Any feedback is greatly appreciated as I know close to nothing about the subject, thanks!
The two metal types will be in direct contact with each other in the elements (which means it can rain but it can also be dry). I'm not talking about marine conditions here.
Is the cast iron going to undergo faster corrosion or is this not a concern?
Conditions of the metals are normal weather conditions (some rain but also dry days). I'm not talking about marine conditions or being near the ocean / sea.
I thought I'd get this sub going with a little discussion. If you read the literature you should never mix metals but personally I have not seen this phenomenon except in wet environments. I'm currently designing a product that will be used outdoors, though not intended for use in the rain, and I am planning to use stainless into tapped aluminum. Most of the actual joints will be inside a plastic enclosure , and my intuition tells me this will be fine, but I am curious if use in a humid environment could lead to problems down the road if I want to get 10 years of service life.
So I just recently finished a loop in my Ncase M1 and cheaped out on 90 degree low profile fittings needed for a tight bend on my Barrow Pump Block combo. I ended up getting this Barrowch fitting instead of the ever so popular Koolance 90 degree low profile elbow fitting.
I later realized that the barrowch fitting was labled as having a "Brass core" with an "Aluminum Alloy" body. But just to be safe I ended up buying a couple of those Koolance fittings to replace it in about a week. Lets say worst case scenario: The aluminum is actually touching the water in the loop these past couple weeks since the finished build. Would there be a lot of galvanic corrosion as a result? How long does it take to see evidence of galvanic corrosion with only 2 fittings are the cause?
I wonder if I will have to take apart the whole loop and all the blocks to clean it out. Also what other kind of damage might I expect?
Thanks in advance
What would be the best coating for tap bolts that i need to attach a 1/4 plate of aluminum into a tapped hole in the side of an aluminum extrusion? Zinc Plated? Or stainless steel with some anti seize/rubber gasket sealer. I can’t find any answered as everybody has a different opinion. Also i’m in a salty humid area, and it’s for a roof rack to a car..I’m attaching the side plates on both sides of the rack to 4 aluminum extrusions running across the top of the car. Rack Reference.
There’s a small local distillery that opened up near me and a buddy of mine built them a skookum as frig carbon steel stand for the large copper still. A very high temp burner goes under it. When I asked him about a dielectric barrier between the copper and the carbon he said they were just gonna keep an eye on it. Lol. Even though they’re aware of the issue he would rather just avoid any problems and insulate it anyway. By that I mean have a barrier between the dissimilar metals. We’re having some trouble deciding what to use. FRP is probably out because it’s so close to the flame. At high temperatures in the presence of high moisture is stainless steel even an option? Too hot for galvo because of offgassing hex chrome obviously.
Hello all. Did anyone knows how to prevent a galvanic corrosion between aluminum and steel? My question arise in regards of the windows and doors (aluminum frames) installation in a container home (steel). I understand, painting both faces can prevent the reaction, but how are they safely bolted? I apologize for my bad English.
Hello people! I have a real case scenario and some questions for whoever can answer them.
I have an old road bike with steel tubing (I don't know the exact alloy, but I recall something with manganese). It has an aluminum seatpost which has stayed put a couple of years for good. The seat doesn't bulge a bit, and I suspect some sort of galvanic bonding between the two metals has happened due to corrosion. My questions are:
- Can thermal expansion / contraction of either or both of the metals be able to break the bond? I heard from someone that the oxides in the corroded area may expand at the same pace as the pure metals (therefore preventing the bond from being broken), but I am not sure.
- What's the best solution to get rid of aluminum oxide in a safe and practical way?
For example if I have a carbon steel blade (hidden tang) and some elements in the handle made from brass, nickel silver, bronze etc.. The fit between them would naturally be imperfect, so in my mind it's a likely scenario that water gets trapped somewhere between tang and the metals in the handle (maybe during cleaning or something) which would provide a conductive layer between dissimilar metals.
Does anyone have experience with this kind of thing? Is galvanic corrosion a phenomenon that could possibly affect the structural integrity of the knife (or even just make it look bad) or am I overthinking this?
Hello Engineering,
I have grounded aluminium and I'm going to use fasteners to join it to other pieces of aluminium. This construct will be earthed using an aluminium wire.
To prevent galvanic corrosion occuring and the joints failing, what materials can I use for the fasteners? I guess the construct would be cathodic as it would absorb and transfer electrons to ground, but the fasteners would also absorb and transfer electrons to the surrounding aluminium - so am I right in concluding that the aluminium in that context is the anode, and therefore I am fine using galvanic steel?
As per this image: https://i.imgur.com/HP1A75x.png
