Is there a better way of doing this. I went with the Pfsense route. but I can not upgrade to the latest version because it breaks this method. Is there a better solution to this problem.
Hello,
I'm trying to set up port forwarding on my BGW320-505, following these instructions: https://www.att.com/support/article/u-verse-high-speed-internet/KM1215101 .
In Firewall --> NAT/Gaming, adding custom services (in this case, a custom port for an ssh server on a Raspberry Pi) is easy enough, but the Needed by Device dropdown menu is unpopulated.
I have a single device (a router) hooked into the RG, with IP Passthrough turned on so the router has my public IP address.
I don't have public subnet turned on, and would really rather not.
I've done a bit of googling and seen that some people have fixed this issue with a factory reset, but I'd love to not need to do that.
Any ideas? Thanks!
Are we allowed to move into Columbia Residential apartment before we take the gateway test?
Combination cable modem, wired router, wireless access port and telephone, for use with WOW. DOCSIS 3.0 is acceptable.
I have a Ubee DWV3201B which has worked flawlessly for over 10 years (which means that speed from 10 years ago is acceptable), but I can NOT program the telephone interface. I have searched all over the internet and there is no information and no help from Ubee.
Suggestions ?
The AT&T residential gateway has some limitations to the sessions it can handle. This might be fine for many home users, but I think there are many of us who need to increase the limit. This post shows the steps required to use your own firewall and put the Arris gateway to the side where it has no impact on the sessions you can have from your home network.
https://geekzweb.com/2019/06/10/bypassing-arris-bgw210-700-pfsense-netgraph/
I have had gigapower internet for about 3 years and have a Pace 5268AC gateway. Has att changed their gateway? If so. What make/model is it and what is different?
Thank you.
I have created a GitHub based on information from this forum post. In an attempt to have something that is easier to update as time goes on as well as easier to understand.
Any and all input is welcome. (Including formatting)
I also would like to say that I take no credit for the time that went into getting this to work.
My home is prewired with cat 5e cables but they are set up for phone system. I am thinking about converting to ethernet but need some help.
I’ve located the residential gateway hub in my garage but the wires appear to be a mesh.
https://imgur.com/a/wwz3Lw1
There are 12 cat5e cables connected to some kind of phone system and appears to be output. There are also 2 cat 5e at the bottom and a light brown cable (look like landline phone from outside). The light brown cable is connected to one of the bottom cat5e cables. Could Redditer explain me the existing residential phone hub?
- What does the 2 Feeds To Outside mean?
- 12 cat5 cable uses blue and white blue wires, so I am thinking these are the cables going to different rooms and I need to convert them RJ45 jack. Is my assumption correct?
- What are the bottom 2 cat 5e cables and the light brown cable? I do not use landline phone, but want to make sure I do not mess up in case I switch from cable internet to ATT.
- Among the 12 cables, 6 are blue and 6 are light blue. One group has CMX wording while other does not. Googling CMX shows some kind of outdoor. Not sure why? Any difference? May be for outside? Have not found all 12 outlets.
I'm moving next week and investigating ISP options. AT&T is the only one that offers true fiber, but I'm put off by the "Residential Gateway" that's seemingly required. I've always been the type of person to buy my own modem and use my own router + wireless APs. So I have no interest in using their "all in one" device, especially because they're quoting a $10 per month rental for it.
However, I've seen people mention that you have to use that device, since it handles authentication? I've also seen mentions that it's possible to bypass that device using some advanced techniques, but that still doesn't seem to mean you can outright remove it from your home.
Am I understanding the situation correctly? Are there other options?
So my house is pre-wired and has a Greyfox Residential Hub from 2001 in the basement.
Right now, my cable modem is connected to a coaxial in the living room so I have wifi working.
I want to:
-
Reroute the cable box to the basement residential hub and get the internet up and running via WiFi.
-
Plug the Ethernet from the cable box into the right place within the residential hub, or one of the pre-wired Ethernet cables already in the hub into the cable modem.
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Connect all of my various rooms to the residential hub so you can get a wired connection in every room.
Here are some relevant pictures: https://imgur.com/gallery/OzBe4w3
(Excuse me if this has been answered before, i tried searching for an answer but couldn't find it.)
I have a home network with 4x Unifi G3-Flex cameras, Unifi US-8 switch, Unifi cloud key 2, and Amplify AP (and also a Synology NAS on the network which weirdly i cant access remotely).
My US-8 switch says that I would benefit from a USG but doesn't explain why.
From my limited understanding, the USG will firewall traffic making my local network more secure, as well as monitoring/analysing network activity. Is there any other benefit of having a USG?
I have read the forum postings about bypassing the ATT Gigapower residential gateway (RG) using the VLAN trick on switches such as the Netgear GS105 series switches. Last night in pfsense I spoofed the MAC address of the RG and statically assigned the IP that was shown on the Broadband tab of my BGW210-700 RG. I used the /22 subnet and everything came up. The problem that I am facing is that I have purchased the static IP /29 block but don't know how/where to apply that in pfsense to make all my traffic go out the first IP of that block versus the IP that the RG gets via DHCP.
Anyone else get their static IP to work and how do you apply this?
I upgraded to Internet 300, which resulted in me getting that XB6 gateway (the pillar with the slanted top). Everything works fine there but I noticed that I can now see a 'ShawMobileHotSpot' network in the wifi list. it's secured and it has Hotspot 2.0 so it seems legit. And it wasn't there until my modem was replaced. It's not listed as a network inside the actual gateway settings. And when I unplug the modem this Hotspot seems to be gone.
If the shoe fits..
Has anyone else noticed this?
I was surprised at the lack of documentation for this, so I figured I'd type out what eventually worked for me. Google Wifi customer service was no help on this, and actually a little misleading, so I had to figure most of this out on my own...
The instructions included with Google Wifi only take you so far, and assume (I think) that you are using all wireless devices. The problem that I had was that once I got my new wireless network set up, it didn't recognize all the wired devices that I had running to the gateway (including 2 Chromecasts which were now unrecognizable because they were technically on a different network).
To fix this, and get Google Wifi to recognize both your wired and wireless devices, you have to configure your Google Wifi primary point to accept the wired devices through its LAN port. Simple concept, but easier said than done.
For reference, the AT&T gateway that I did this on is a Pace 5268AC. The process for accessing the gateway settings, and the user interface once you get there, are pretty similar across most AT&T gateways.
First, I recommend unplugging all wired network devices except for the Google Wifi primary point. This makes it easier later on to identify which device you will forward all traffic to.
Once you've done that, you'll need to set up the Google Wifi primary point to be DHCP instead of Static IP (this enables DMZ+ mode on the AT&T gateway). To do this, unplug the network cable form your already configured Google Wifi primary point until the light glows orange. From the app, find the Advanced Networking section in the Network & General section of settings. Under the WAN settings, select DHCP and back out to save the settings. Plug your primary point back in. The app's instructions are pretty good on this.
Second, enable DMZ+ on the AT&T gateway to pass traffic through to the Google Wifi primary point. To do this from the AT&T gateway: Settings -> Firewall -> Applications, pinholes and DMZ. There you'll see a list of wireless and wired devices. If you unplugged all your wired devices, then the only wired device on that list will be the Google Wifi primary point. You should notice that the name is pretty cryptic, which is why unplugging everything else makes it easier to identify this device. Click the link to "Choose" that device, then change the setting down below to "Allow all applications (DMZ+ mode)." Then click save.
Finally, you need to let the primary point know that
... keep reading on reddit ➡I have service in 2 residential addresses (spectrum is the ISP). I would like to network them together (perhaps VPN?) so that a desktop in residence A can communicate directly with a device in Residence B. Is there a guide i can follow to do this? I have the 2 Gateway 3P, 2 cloud controllers.
Thx everyone that responded, So I need only 1 cloud key controller.
Then followed these 2 videos:
1 controller multiple sites https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndgHd6TGRJs
2 Site to Site VPN https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFcsOqCdfg0
I currently have AT&T U-Verse Internet & VOICE & DIRECTV. AT&T is charging me $7/month for a High Speed Internet Equipment Fee. I asked a customer service rep today who confirmed they would waive the fee if I were to purchase my own Residential Gateway.
I looked on eBay and saw tons of compatible RGs for $30-50. Anyone have experience with purchasing RGs on eBay? Is there anywhere else I can buy one? I've Googled this but never came across a definitive answer.
Hey all, for the past two days I've been having issues with my internet. My internet would randomly die all of a sudden (once every 20 minutes or so), so it was really annoying.
I checked my Residential Gateway website (where you put your default gateway into the address bar), and I came across a completely different UI. I entered my usual login credentials but it wouldn't work, however the default (admin, password) works. Here's what it looks like. And this is what my default looks like, what I'm supposed to see.
When I logged into the strange site, I saw many connected devices which contains kindles, DirectTV, Iphone (none of which I have). The firewall security was off, and there weren't any logos of any kind (Motorola, Zoom, Cisco, etc). Can anyone help me out on this?
update: I wandered around the new gateway site and I found out it uses a Technicolor TC8715D, which I don't use at all.
So, a while ago, my uverse router got poor wifi connection in one area of my 1 bedroom apartment. So, I purchased a Apple Airport extreme to improve my wifi signaL, connected it to the gateway, then shutdown the gateway's wifi signal. For months, I have enjoyed a stronger and faster wifi performance while enduring the occasional trouble of the Uverse app failing to stay connected.
Now, for the past few days, the Uverse app fails to stay connected or even find the wifi signal. This is despite all devices still being connected to the same wifi signal coming from the Airport extreme.
I called "customer support" who went through the delete the app and reinstall the app nonsense. When that failed, the rep went to a colleague who suggested that there may have been a recent change to my setup .I mentioned the Airport extreme and they suggested transferring me to a 3rd party tech support service that would involve a fee if they were able to fix the problem. I really hope we get an alternative to Uverse and Comcast real soon.
Anywho, if anyone has had a similar experience with the Uverse app failing to connect to wifi despite having a strong wifi signal and have found a way to make it work, please share! Thanks.
Those who have AT&T Uverse Internet service should be aware that their gateways, supplied by AT&T, stores the wireless network key/password in clear text where anyone with access to the gateway, weather AT&T staff or from the residential side, can see the wireless network password. This is a huge network security breach and AT&T did not do this by accident. There was a rather recent lawsuit against AT&T regarding AT&T sharing user information/records with federal agencies (e.g NSA). It looks like this is a related practice by AT&T to share user information with the government for mass surveillance purposes. This could be a good story for LA or New York Times. Having a Router show a password in clear text is the most basic violation of network security. This is the summary of it: AT&T sees every customer's wireless network password in clear text and passes that information to a government security database for use by federal agencies so they can monitor people's communications. This is probably illegal, and hence that lawsuit against AT&T. I did call AT&T Uverse on this. The last sentence I heard from AT&T tiere 3 tech was this: "Do you have anything to hide?" And then he hung up the phone. The only possible way to counter this, is to disable the wireless functionality of AT&T's gateway and then insert a second off-the-shelf wireless router in the network, connecting it to the AT&T router as a secondary router. However this will only work if the AT&T gateway's firmware would allow this configuration (see router-on-router or cascaded routers). AT&T keeps changing the firmware of its gateways periodically. Also some customers may not have the technical expertise to perform this reconfiguration without outside help.
What is the current RG model that are being distributed. I currently have the Arris NVG589 from 2 years ago and getting my services update on Tuesday. Rep indicated I'll be getting a new RG during the installation. I'm hoping there is a newer model that supports dual band. Is that the case?
I'm hoping someone can help can me with a networking issue behind my Uverse residential gateway. I have a feeling that when/if I contact AT&T and my router manufacturer, they will just point the finger at each other.
For almost 5 years I had Uverse coming into my home via the existing coax that was in place when I bought the house. It was connected to a 2Wire RG. Over those years, we had frequent problems with dropped Internet connections at the RG. I'll come back to that in a moment.
In the fifth year I added two internal routers so that I could operate seperate networks and keep unproven (security-wise) devices - like a Nest thermostat, guest devices and future so-called Internet-of-things purchases - off the network with my family's computers. I got a new ASUS RT-AC66U for the main LAN and flashed an old Linksys WRT54G2 with DD-WRT for the alternate LAN. This Y-configuration, two routers with separate internal networks (192.168.2.x and 192.168.3.x) behind the RG (192.168.1.x) was working great. Here is a diagram: http://imgur.com/PbVCZeC
This is what I am trying to achieve again. I'm not really looking to deviate from this configuration. I am looking to maintain ethernet layer separation between the two internal networks. I'm not interested in IP passthrough or cabling the two internal routers in series in any order.
In the sixth year AT&T finally decided to switch my Internet off of the coax to the pre-existing phone line (which we have never used because we just use our cell phones) in an effort to resolve our dropped connections. In the process, they changed the RG to a Motorola/Arris NVG599. The good news is that our Internet connection as been vastly more reliable.
The bad news is that for some reason, the ASUS does not seem to work behind the new RG. I cannot figure out why. It does not seem to receive an IP from the RG via DHCP nor does it work with a manually configured WAN IP in the 192.168.1.x range (the LAN of the RG). The Linksys kept going without a hiccup. I can take the patch cables going from the LAN of the RG to the WAN of the internal routers and swap them and the Linksys keeps working and the ASUS still does not.
This makes no sense to me because I thought that neither the router nor the RG should be able to "know" about the other in anyway way that would cause a problem. I'm 90% sure I made no changes to the old RG to make this work and I really should not have to. To the RG, the ASUS is just another internal network de
... keep reading on reddit ➡
My building recently switched to U-Verse for our internet service and I'd like to know the best way to get faster Wi-Fi.
As a reference Speedtest.net shows my computer getting 2.57 Mbps download and 3.53 Mpbs upload when using Wi-Fi. When plugged into directly into U-verse residential gateway (a 2Wire 3801HGV) it shows 29.24 Mbps/4.82 Mbps.
Are there any things I could be doing to increase the Wi-Fi speed? Alternately, is there a router that would be recommended (and a recommended configuration?)
Thanks!
Here's my setup: I have a U-verse 3801HGV residential gateway and a Cisco (Linksys) Valet M10 router sitting behind it, running DD-WRT. I've configured the RG to put the DD-WRT router in "DMZplus" mode, so that the DD-WRT router is given the WAN IP. The DD-WRT router is on a different subnet than the RG. All of my devices are connected to the DD-WRT router, except for my set-top TV boxes (more on that later). I did all this to reap the benefits of DD-WRT's more versatile features compared to the RG (better port forwarding, more responsive interface, etc.).
This setup is working great so far, except for one thing: I can't get my wireless U-verse set-top box to work right on the network. I know that connecting it directly to the RG via ethernet cable (as I did with my downstairs STB) would work, but I can't do that because the wireless STB is upstairs.
If I connect the wireless STB to the DD-WRT network, the TV signal gives out after about 10 seconds, because apparently the signal is converted to multicast/IGMP after about 10 seconds, and the DD-WRT router is not handing it correctly.
I tried connecting the upstairs STB to the downstairs RG via powerline adapters and ethernet cables over my house's electrical system, but this didn't work because the upstairs and downstairs are on different ring mains/circuits, and the powerline adapters weren't able to see each other.
I also tried fiddling with DD-WRT to create a separate vlan for the wireless STB so that I could route the multicast/IGMP traffic to it, but I couldn't figure out how to get this to work.
I also have a couple of old Linksys WRT54G DD-WRT routers sitting around, and I was thinking I could put them to use to create some kind of dedicated wireless bridge connecting the RG to the wireless STB. But, again, I'm not exactly clear on how I would do this.
In summary, given the devices that are mentioned above, do you have any suggestions on how I can get my wireless STB to coexist with the DD-WRT setup and maintain a consistent multicast signal? Many thanks in advance.
Alright, so I will begin by saying I honestly have no clue what I did wrong, nor how to do stuff like this - and I am technologically challenged for the most part - so I apologize in advance if any of this sounds stupid/dumb/is not understandable. My husband usually is the one that handles all this stuff when something screws up, or I mess something up. But he's currently deployed right now, so I have no idea what to do. I'm also not sure exactly what information will be helpful, so if you need any other information please ask and I will try and get you the answers. :)
The way my husband has the wifi set up is that the MAC address of the device has to be entered in the Residential Gateway, otherwise even if they have the password it won't connect for them. Well today I was trying to turn that off, so I could just give the password to my friend that was over instead of getting their MAC address, etc. But I went to a different page and I don't remember what option I was doing it for, but there were only two options in the drop down menu, and it was at 'Enabled' and I think I selected 'Disconnect' then apply. Then my internet went down, and it came back up after, but the RG would not reload and that page had timed out. Every time I tried accessing the RG again, it will not load. My laptop will still work with the wifi, but my phone, PS3, etc., will not connect to the internet.
How do I fix this? I work from home, so I definitely need the wifi, and as long as my laptop is connected, that's great, but I don't want to lose that, plus I would just like my phone, etc., connected to the wifi. If there's any other information you need, please ask! Thanks so much for any help!
I'm trying to troubleshoot connectivity issues and I'm trying to rule out my gateway. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Edit: SOLVED. The date on my PS4 was incorrect. Set to the correct date and I logged right in.
https://geekzweb.com/2019/06/10/bypassing-arris-bgw210-700-pfsense-netgraph/
This is for those of you who want to use your own firewall or other device as though you are directly connected to the Internet and bypass the residential gateway which is limited.
I was surprised at the lack of documentation for this, so I figured I'd type out what eventually worked for me. Google Wifi customer service was no help on this, and actually a little misleading, so I had to figure most of this out on my own...
The instructions included with Google Wifi only take you so far, and assume (I think) that you are using all wireless devices. The problem that I had was that once I got my new wireless network set up, it didn't recognize all the wired devices that I had running to the gateway (including 2 Chromecasts which were now unrecognizable because they were technically on a different network).
To fix this, and get Google Wifi to recognize both your wired and wireless devices, you have to configure your Google Wifi primary point to accept the wired devices through its LAN port. Simple concept, but easier said than done.
For reference, the AT&T gateway that I did this on is a Pace 5268AC. The process for accessing the gateway settings, and the user interface once you get there, are pretty similar across most AT&T gateways.
First, I recommend unplugging all wired network devices except for the Google Wifi primary point. This makes it easier later on to identify which device you will forward all traffic to.
Once you've done that, you'll need to set up the Google Wifi primary point to be DHCP instead of Static IP (this enables DMZ+ mode on the AT&T gateway). To do this, unplug the network cable form your already configured Google Wifi primary point until the light glows orange. From the app, find the Advanced Networking section in the Network & General section of settings. Under the WAN settings, select DHCP and back out to save the settings. Plug your primary point back in. The app's instructions are pretty good on this.
Second, enable DMZ+ on the AT&T gateway to pass traffic through to the Google Wifi primary point. To do this from the AT&T gateway: Settings -> Firewall -> Applications, pinholes and DMZ. There you'll see a list of wireless and wired devices. If you unplugged all your wired devices, then the only wired device on that list will be the Google Wifi primary point. You should notice that the name is pretty cryptic, which is why unplugging everything else makes it easier to identify this device. Click the link to "Choose" that device, then change the setting down below to "Allow all applications (DMZ+ mode)." Then click save.
Finally, you need to let the primary point know that
... keep reading on reddit ➡
