Hey everyone. I'm curious how big of a difference a bow that's 60 pounds vs 160 pounds would have if everything besides the draw weight was the same for penetrating. Is the difference only slight or is there a massive difference? I'm sure I'm missing some variables to describe the situation but I hope you can forgive a newbie question. Thanks for any assistance.
I've been craving foreign coins by the pound lately but haven't seen a lot of offers. I'm looking for up to 20lbs, should be mostly obsolete base metal coins, nothing too ancient or obscure but not just a million old MXP. I'm thinking $120+$10S&H. If you've got what I'm looking for message me and I can pay first PPFF or Venmo, if you have positive feedback.
Hi Everyone! As I prepare for a move, I've been selling off my bulk coinage - here's an opportunity to purchase some of it. Was mostly accumulated over time and need to size down a bit. There are some pretty cool items, in my opinion.
In terms of my rules, I accept PPFF (No Notes - this is important) and will ship USPS tracked to the United States after receiving payment. Shipping will be through USPS Small or Medium Flat Rate, depending on your purchase. Add $5 for shipping. Buyer assumes shipping risk once I drop it off at the post office, though I am happy to provide insurance for an additional cost.
I am quite open to offers, especially on larger groups of coins or when combining multiple lots.
Proof & Photos #1: https://imgur.com/a/PA57g9B
- Lot of Proof World Coins from the late 1970s - Philippines, Guyana, Panama in Flips: $25
- (Old Photos Here: https://imgur.com/a/109FSZq and https://imgur.com/a/W6RV5g4) Large Group of 73 Lincoln Memorial (& Some Wheat) UNC Rolls: Note - I haven't cherrypicked or checked that each roll has 50. I got these from my local coin store and realized that I won't have time to search them for varieties. The 1947-D roll isn't super pretty. Note that these will rattle during shipping, so if that possibility bothers you, since shipping risk is on your end, please take that into consideration. The LFRB will be completely taped around the box with packing tape, so someone would really have to fully steal it or destroy the packaging to remove / take the coins.(1) 1945 • (1) 1947-D • (1) Partial 44/50 1953-D • (1) 1958-D • (1) 1959 • (1) 1959-D • (1) 1960 • (1) 1960-D • (1) 1961 • (1) 1961-D • (1) 1962 • (1) 1962-D • (1) 1963 • (1) 1963-D • (2) 1964 • (1) 1964-D • (3) 1965 • (11) 1966 • (2) 1967 • (12) 1968 • (5) 1969 • (3) 1969-D • (3) 1972 • (17) LIKELY 1972... from Chase Manhattan Bank: $125 (SOLD)
- 1961 Panama UNC Set In Original Plastic: $40 (SOLD)
- Large lot of U.S. coins: (385) No-Date, Nic-A-Dated, or Cull Buffalo Nickels, (163) Dated Buffalo Nickels, (15) 1943 Cull Pennies, (42) Non-Cull 1880-1899 IHCs, (38) Non-Cull 1900-1909 IHCs, (42) IHCs, Mystery Group of Coins (with the 1673XII modern coin, but also some older stuff / ancients / Cash coins), Incomplete Buffalo Nickel Folder (has been nic-a-dated): $275 (SOLD)
- Swiss Francs 222 CHF (circulating: second photo shows coins [https:/
Hi guys,
A couple of weeks ago I got a fairly cheap bow, with 26lb limbs.
I am loving archery at the moment, and am pretty comfortable with 26lb. Can hit most of my arrows within a 15cm space from 25m, which is pretty amazing compared to when I started.
I'm looking into some new limbs now, I don't know whether to go for 32/24 or 40s next.
They're quite expensive for me (I'm poor) so I don't really want to go to 32/34 as a stepping stone to 40s unless I really have to.
Any advice on this would br grand.
Edit: I don't know if it's important, but I'm using a recurve.
How can I layout my bow so that I get a rough idea of my ideal poundage at my draw length.
What’s a good way to tell when you’re ready to move up in weight and by how much? My 40 lb recurve came in today, and I’m able to consistently hit a 6” circle from about 20 yards. I practiced for about 30 minutes without feeling fatigued.
Would my next step be a 45 lb or could I jump to 50? I bought a deerseeker take down and can buy the limbs individually.
Also any tips on my form? Thanks! https://streamable.com/6bdwf0
Any recommendation on carbon arrows for youth? I have 2 kids, one shooting at 15lb and one at 25lb, and both with draw lengths around 20in.
I can't seem to find any good carbon arrows with a soft enough spine. I'm not really concerned with price.
Thanks!
Hello, I started shooting recurve after the summer, after shooting comp a couple of years. So I followed everyones advice and started realy light with the recurve got myself 30# limbs. Witch I must admit I didnt find that easy to get the hang of. Anyways im starting to feel like I can handle the recurve a litle bit now and was thinking how mutch one should up the poundage when getting new limbs?
Was thinking maybe getting 36# limbs but another part of me says I should maybe upgrade in smaller increments? How have you other recurvers gone about it?
Hey guys, my wife just got into bow hunting this season, she’s pulling 40 pounds, has anyone had any experience as to how far out that poundage is lethal on whitetail
Hello All,
I have a question, what is the formula to determine the poundage of 4 foot pads using the COG?
My thinking is the Z is static (the floor) and the X & Y planes of the COG divide the total weight into quadrants. My assumption is each foot will carry the weight of the mass of its respective quadrant.
If I have a 1’ x 1’ x 1’ cube that weighs 3000g and my COG looking down at the cube is 1/3 to the right and 1/3 forward. Then the left fwd foot is carrying 666.7 lbs, right fwd foot is carrying 333.3 lbs, rear left is carrying 1333.3 lbs, and rear right is carrying 666.7 lbs?
Am I even close?
TIA
The school of hard knocks has taught me to take care of myself. Being a senior citizen has taught me I am not bullet proof. I want to take care of the body I have.
I've been an archer all my life. Recently my backyard bow broke. It was a cheapie, a PSE. So no big deal.
The good thing is, I get to buy a replacement. In order to save my body parts - my fingers, shoulders, and what ever else might take a beating from use, I want to buy the lightest, PRACTCAL bow/arrow set-up commonly available.
My question is, Who sells a traditional style bow with a very light pull poundage, and arrows (or just shafts) to match? The bow that broke was a 30#. My arrows measure 28 inches from the depth of the knock (the radius where the arrow contacts the string), to the end of the arrow if you were to unscrew and remove the point. It doesn't matter to me, long or recurve. I can fletch my own arrows. I normally use aluminum shafts. (Even for my compound bow.) I like to shoot distances of 20 to 35 yards, just because.
Some years ago I saw a used 18 pound wooden longbow in an archery shop and I didn't buy it and now I'm kicking myself.
Anyway. I would like to buy a light weight traditional style bow and arrow set-up that uses standard components. Any help you all could provide would be greatly appreciated. I'm thinking of contacting Lancaster Archery and buying the lightest 3 piece recurve from their catalog and a dozen shafts to match. Thoughts???
What poundage do you shoot? I’m 13, 5’3 and 115 pounds. I shoot 70 pounds at a 26 inch draw and van shoot all day
Hi all, I am having a party for my sons 1st birthday and about 20ish people coming.
I’ve doubled my recipe for pulled pork and am somewhere around 18-20lbs on the Butt.
Should I cook two 9lbers? Or try to find one big ass (pork) butt? What are the timing implications of both? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Celebrating grandparents' being together for 70 years. I'm on task for making beef wellington for 12-15 people. How many pounds of meat should I plan for while being realistic about portion sizes? I see some guides online saying to plan for half a pound per person, or up to a pound for people will big appetites, but frankly I don't care how hungry you are, eating an entire pound of tenderloin is grossly excessive. To me, 5 oz when doing a plain roast is more than enough, but I wanted to hear other people.
Update: 4-5 oz is totally sufficient and do not fall for half pound per person meme. Unfortunately I was distracted by helping move a table and when I got back to the oven it had been in for 7 minutes too long and was more medium well.
Been using a compound for a couple years now, don’t know the poundage or much about it at all. I’ve always preferred recurve and I’ve always wanted one but I don’t know if I should get the Samick Sage 25# or the Ragim wildcat 18# or 20#. I’ve wanted a samick sage for a while, and recently I decided I was going to get one. I’m not very strong at all (and I’m also a 16yo girl) and I’m worried that I might not be able to handle 25#. Honestly I don’t know what it’s like, I’ve heard beginners should stick around 20#. I think the lighter the better, but I was looking forward to getting the samick sage, does that 5 pounds make a big difference? Should I go all in with the 25# samick and work up some strength or get a lighter bow? What should I do?
I've read and heard that if you want to shoot a #60 bow, its better to get a 50-60 thats dialed up to 60 than a 60-70 dialed down to 60. The travel length of the limbs and the shim gap makes sense to me as to why the bow would shoot better if it is bolted all the way down.
I've also heard that limbs will last longer if you shoot at the lower of the poundage range (i.e shoot a 60-70 at 60 will last longer than a 50-60 at 60). The logic explained is that limbs that can withstand 70 will last longer than limbs that can only withstand 50 when exposed to the same weight and strain (repeated 60# draw and unload) over the years.
Now that Barnett’s youth crossbows aren’t available anymore, are there any compound crossbows that are 125lbs or less?
Hi guys! So I shoot a 29” draw at 50LB and was wonder what is the best all around fixed blade broad head to use for all types of hunting? Deer and turkey mostly.
