I moved into my home in June and the doors were pretty grimey. Needed to do a quick paint job and honestly I did not care much about hinges and plates and they got paint to different degrees on them. Now that winter is here and I have more indoor time I am trying to figure out a convenient way of removing the dried paint. Goo gone isn’t going to work so readily and I am trying to figure out if anyone knows of a safe tool to use that would take the paint off of flat and curved areas while not jacking up the metal too badly.
Any idea why a new coat of acrylic latex paint is starting to look like this in various spots (but not everywhere) after just a couple months? We cleaned the previous walls with a bit of TSP and primed with BIN shellac based before the latex paint.
How can I fix/prevent it elsewhere?
https://imgur.com/a/hE8KVvD
In my 90s colonial, the last owner repainted all the doors with latex directly over the original oil paint finish. I can scrape sections off with my fingernail. I stripped one but it was a lot of work because I just used goof-off and a rough scotch brite paint removal pad. Can someone recommend a better product to loosen the latex without disturbing the oil paint which is still in great condition? They are 6 panel doors with a wood grain, so a plastic putty knife didn't work so well either.
https://imgur.com/a/MH7488R
Days after painting my paint is still sticky to the point it will leave a finger print if I press on it. Is this fixable? I have sanded a layer off to try and make it dry faster but still am having no luck. Paint it is my bathroom could it be due to humidity? I have had box fans on it for 24 hours still no luck. Any help is nice.
I'd like to spray my basement ceiling black or as close to black that I can get. I have a 5 gallon bucket of Kilz Hide All primer which says "water based" on the label which is tinted to a charcoal grey color. Would I be able to mix it with a couple gallons of flat black latex paint so I can spray the ceiling in one application rather than priming then painting? I assume oil based paint is out of the question.
I moved into a house a while back, and the previous owner did a quick paint job. Slapped 1 coat of latex paint over some oil based paint. Shortly after we moved in, a lot of it was starting to peel. I have scrapped some of it and primed and painted it, but this is very tedious work and have only done it on a couple door jambs. Can I just double or triple prime it then paint it to cover it? I'm not thinking this is an option since the paint is not adhered properly to the base layer. What are some other options I can employ for either quick removal or fixing it without total removal? I've not had great success online for an easy solution. Know that this is on all the trim in the whole house. Base boards, quarter round, door jambs, doors, so it is no small project. I have hardwood floors, so I'm leary of using a paint stripper as I'm worried about the finish of hardwood.
I want to limewash the interior of my new home, that has been painted in the past with ordinary plastic/latex paints. I have been researching and have found I definitely need to use an acrylic primer.
I have also found something called a quartz bonding acrylic primer, that has quartz sand in it, which makes a rougher surface for things like new plaster or tiles to have something to stick to. Wouldn't this be good to roughen up the surface for the limewash? Does anyone have experience using it before limewashing? If so do you have photos or video of what it looks like?
As far as I can tell I should paint more thinner coats rather than fewer thicker coats. What kind of ratios of lime putty to water should I be using? I was thinking (based on the info I have found) to do a very thin first coat, like 1 part lime putty to 10 parts water, and then work up several coats from there increasing the ratio of lime putty, up to a last coat of 1 part lime putty to 1 part water. What do you think?
Finally I am not sure if I should be adding any binders, fillers, etc? I have seen mention of linseed oil, salt, marble dust, gum arabic, etc, but I can't find detailed information of exactly what each additive does in order to decide. What do you recommend for indoor use over a surface that has already been painted with latex paint? In what ratio should these be added? What about pigments?
Thanks
I was painting the underside of an aquarium stand with an aquarium underneath. Stocked with shrimp and a few snails. I covered it with cardboard before I started, when I was almost done the corner slipped and a drop or 2 worth of paint got in to the water.
It's a 20 gallon tank and as soon as it happened I put the cardboard back and went to get stuff for a water change, When I came back the entire tank was already a very pale white (water soluble paint). It only has a sponge filter, is there anything I can do right now or just more more water changes?
Should I transfer the shrimp/some plants into a clean aquarium?(same temperature very similar ph/tds etc) it's been about 4 hours and other than slight improvement in water color nothing has happened yet.
I'm planning on painting my dining room to be less... bland. I'm thinking about putting milk paint on the baseboards to give them more of an antique look.
Am I going to be better off using a bonding agent and painting on top of the latex paint? Or is it going to be easier to strip the existing paint off?
My house was built in 1900, and I have no idea what's underneath the latex paint.
Recently purchased a house and I am looking to repaint the trim! It was painted with semi-gloss acrylic latex paint originally. What would be the process of repainting it? Sanding, what type of paint, etc.
Does HF make serviceable guns for spraying cabinets/doors with latex paint? And any protips?
I have a remodel project where I have to do a lot of trim/door/cabinet painting, but probably won't use the system much afterwards.
I bought a sideboard cabinet from a big box chain and sanded, primed, painted with latex (for the color I wanted) but the finish is still pretty “soft” (heavy items stick on the paint when I try to move them, etc. Is there anything I can apply now to give it a harder finish?
I was super excited for it, thought it would really help me but I just opened it and I tried the metal tool it came with and I can’t handle the noise it makes against the rock. I started picking the paint bumps off with my fingers but even my nails against the rock make a noise/feeling that I can’t handle (like nails on a chalkboard “icky” feeling). I’m so disappointed, the small shop I ordered it from is so awesome and I had high hopes for this helping me (it’s obviously not the shops fault) but I’m just so sad/frustrated right now.
For budget reasons I'm determined to master painting laminate Ikea furniture. I am about to give up on this project but I will attempt another round of painting Ikea furniture after the frustration wears off. Here's what I've done so far on a basic drawer unit:
-sand 220 and clean
-roll 2 thin coats Zinsser BIN shellac primer, sanding 220 after coats
-wait 24 hours then spray BM Regal select latex in a dark colour
-wait two days then try to sand 400, PAINT COMES OFF AT EDGES ONLY
-closer inspection the primer is not adhering at all edges so decided to sand down the edges 120 and re-prime. (I know this is not ideal because now there are different levels of paint happening but I don't have a choice because it's adhering so well to the flat surfaces that it'll take ages to sand the whole thing.)
-waited a week, primer is now very well adhered at edges. Sand 220 and clean
-spray latex again
-its been 4 days of high humidity at constant 60deg temps and the LATEX STILL SCRATCHES/SANDS OFF where the BIN primer is FRESH. Primer is not budging.
Options at this point
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keep waiting, assume humidity is causing an extremely slow cure (west coast rainy season). Maybe rent dehumidifyer?
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no sanding between coats. Keep layering latex then wait a month for cure, then start layering minwax polycrylic and hope for the best
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give away on FB marketplace and start again
Plans for next time
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Make sure to sand hardest plastic corners thoroughly before priming
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SHOULD I BE TOP COATING WITH ALKYD INSTEAD? BM advance?
