Hello my 2010 c300 has randomly popped up with these two messages that interchange on my dash.
They popped up at the same time and I never had these messages pop up before. They started to show up after a normal drive through town less than 35mph. I parked for ten minutes and when I started my car and accelerated past 10mph these messages pop up.
The power steering is working despite the message
The car is 54k miles.
The esp backlight was on the esp button during the drive before the messages popped up. Since then the esp backlight doesn't show up on the button and pressing the esp button causes yellow ! to light up on the dash like in the pictures if I am parked when the car is on.
My battery about a month and a half old is at a good level.
Error codes that pop up using a normal OBD scanner from AutoZone:
Anti-Lock Brake System Secondary Trouble Codes
6001 The Supply Voltage Of Control Unit "N30/4 (Electronic Stability Program Control Unit)" Is Too High(overvoltage)"
6000
5001
Things I have tried:
I have read that you can try turning the wheel left and right to reset the esp system. Didn't work for me.
I looked at the esp system and it looked fine, I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the esp module from under the hood, the messages it still show up
Things I hear can help that I have not tried:
Checking the wheel sensors
Getting a full diagnostic from an advanced benz scanner
Has anyone experienced this? Do you guys have any recommendations on what I can do to fix this or ideas what it can be? Do you guys think it could be a fuse or sensor?
I'm trying to troubleshoot before I take it to get service to try and save some money.
https://preview.redd.it/qxadrjmit5981.jpg?width=826&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d7936db5661be658a34fc07149af2fa591236e36
Hello, I had a hiboy s2 for the past 5 months, I was out and about using the electric scooter and hit a bump then the scooter turned off. I tried to turn it back on and it didn't work, got in contact with them they told me to test the battery, scooter charger outlet, disconnect and reconnect hall sensor & the wires within the handle, and nothing works. Battery reads at 42v, any idea what to do? There is no burnt smell with the controller, and none of them worked. Any ideas of what is actually wrong with it?
At the private pilot level, it seems like the focus (for example, as asked on a checkride oral) is ensuring that pilots understand that it is not simply whether the equipment is required by 91.205 for the type of flight (e.g. ATOMATOFLAMES for VFR day), but the flow required by 91.213(d).
However, I'm preparing for my commercial checkride and realizing that my knowledge here is pretty superficial when it comes to actually evaluating the items of 91.213(d):
- (i) Part of the VFR-day type certification instruments and equipment prescribed in the applicable airworthiness regulations under which the aircraft was type certificated;
- (ii) Indicated as required on the aircraft's equipment list, or on the Kinds of Operations Equipment List for the kind of flight operation being conducted;
- (iii) Required by § 91.205 or any other rule of this part for the specific kind of flight operation being conducted; or
- (iv) Required to be operational by an airworthiness directive;
I'm planning to take my checkride in a PA-28-161, and so looked up the relevant FAA TCDS, which states that the certification basis is:
- CAR 3 effective May 15, 1956, including Amendments 3-1 and 3-2; paragraph 3.387(d) of Amendment 3-4; paragraphs 3.304 and 3.705 of Amendment 3-7 effective May 3, 1962; FAR 23.955 and 23.959 as amended by Amendment 23-7 effective September 14, 1969; FAR 23.1557(c)(1) as amended by Amendment 23-18 effective May 2, 1977; FAR 23.1327 and 23.1547 as amended by Amendment 23-20 effective September 1, 1977; and FAR 36 effective December 1, 1969, through Amendment 36-4.
That is a hornets nest of unfamiliar regulations with complex citations. How do you navigate this? What level of knowledge is expected at the commercial level? For example, if asked on the commercial oral whether I could fly with a particular piece of equipment inoperative, I can point to 91.213(d) and can pull up 91.205, the equipment list, and the TCDS -- but the underlying type certification basis is super messy.
(OTCQX: UNRV)
Unrivaled Brands made the decision to sell their property and building located on Dyer Road in Santa Ana, CA for $13.4 million. The sale is expected to close in January 2022, and the company will retire $9.0 million of outstanding debt on the property.
The sale has the effect of reducing carrying costs, freeing up capital and allowing the vompany to direct its resources to brands or other dispensaries. With the close of the sale of Dyer Property the company will be saving over $100,000 per month.
Unrivaled’s CEO Frank Knuettel II stated, “By selling the Dyer Property and eliminating the expenses associated with the property, we are another step closer to positive cash flow. We believe that focusing our time and capital on brands or other currently operating assets will result in a higher return on investment."
Unrivaled Brands is a cannabis company that operates five dispensaries, a state-wide distribution network, and two cultivation facilities in California. They also have one additional cultivation facility and up to three additional dispensaries under development.
Source: https://finance.yahoo.com/news/unrivaled-brands-announces-agreement-sell-133000967.html
Not financial advice.
As the title states, I just got a 1-month Gold subscription to download all the releases I missed since my previous 1-year sub ran out, but the tool (Monster Utilities) is currently inoperative due to changes in the API.
Is there any way to hold/pause my subscription so that I can resume it at a later date whenever this tool starts working again? With the increase in cost for a sub it's not as easy for me to go for another 1-year sub, otherwise I would just wait it out.
Exactly what it says on the tin folks, bar one small thing. The USB 3.1 port works in the SSD boot up. My eight other ones don't.
This problem has been ongoing for about a fortnight now. It began after it felt a little sluggish and I reset it. None of my USB ports kicked back in. I figured automatic updates must have been buggy and killed the USB ports upon restart so I reset it to a previous time. No dice. I feel I have done everything. Reinstalled windows. Reset the CMOS. Re-seated everything on the Mobo.
The Motherboard is a MSI Z170A Gaming Pro Carbon.
I've gotten a USB hub and am getting by for now but it's killing me not knowing what the problem is. Also, even with the USB Hub my Corsair headphones won't work. I've built this machine from the ground up and I don't want to call in someone now after all this time and learning so much just because of this hurdle. I know the ports aren't fried because it works when I boot from the hard drive. So logic leads me to believe that there is some setting that has been changed in the background of my SSD boot options somehow... because of a restart? Seems weird but it's the only thing I did that day.
Thanks in advance for any advice. I will try any and all possible solutions.
Please help!
As the title says, my Focus was in an accident involving a deer. The deer hit on the passenger side/front of the vehicle. Immediately after the accident (when the vehicle was moved off the road) the back up camera became inoperative (picture attached, blurry lines through the screen making it impossible so see). I am working with insurance to get the repairs completed but they are pushing back on the fact that the back up camera would be related to the accident. I was hoping that someone might have some information that would help as to why the camera would start acting up after a front end collision that I can go back to the adjuster with to make the argument as painless as possible.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Edit: forgot to attach the photo
https://preview.redd.it/pxfna6xk0f081.jpg?width=1816&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d4b5f63f4fa5224292ebeeeb5809d0f466211ae0
Hey there all, hoping someone smarter than me can figure this out. Bought a Corsair K100 keyboard a few weeks ago, out of the blue my volume wheel no longer works. Tried uninstalling and reinstalling icue, rolled back to an older icue version, unplugged/replugged usb, tried keyboard reset which didn’t appear to work (hold ESC while plugging back in). The odd thing is, it works briefly sometimes. If I restart Human Interface Device under windows services, it will work for maybe a second or two then stop working again. Also, sometimes it will work as soon as I start my pc and get to the desktop. A few seconds later it will stop working. Every other function on the keyboard works so I’d imagine this is software related. Seems like some program is overriding control, just have no idea what it could be. The only thing I’ve installed recently is Acronis for backing up my storage, and Halo Infinite via Steam. Any ideas are welcome, thanks in advance!
(I have opened a ticket with Corsair support, they just haven’t gotten back to me yet)
CJ4 - Ran through a full training flight and got to the end; unable to shutdown engines using cockpit view. I’ve seen people on YouTube click the engines off, mine says Inoperative. Is there a realism setting somewhere to turn these buttons on. Battery button is inoperative as well.
I rcvd my new computer about a week and a half ago and up on initial power up I immediately noticed that one (bottom) of the three fans on the ThermalTake 360mm AIO was not spinning. With limited time, I chalked it up to maybe it kicks on after the CPU gets to a certain temperature. Firing it up today (for the first time in a week), the fan is still not spinning.
Additionally, one of the two 140mm Phanteks exhaust fans is not spinning. Is it possible that the fan control settings are set to leave those off until a certain temperature is obtained? I've not run the computer hard (about an hour gaming session was the longest I was able to try). So if the fans are set to kick on, I'm guessing it wasn't hot enough to cycle them?
Does anyone know if these are supposed to be off (if so, how do I modify the settings) or did I somehow get two inoperative fans on two separate piece of equipment?
I've not done any troubleshooting as it's the third time I've powered it on and want to know if this is expected. If not, what are my initial troubleshooting actions, e.g. check settings (how?), check connections? Also, I've not yet contacted customer support since I wanted to know if this is a normal condition.
First desktop I've owned in at least 15yrs so potato-head explanations are welcome, lol.
Also, within my order I requested three 140mm fans - apparently only two fit my case (Lian Li Razer ATX mid-tower) so within the random parts and pieces is the third fan. I guess I'm a bit surprised that if the physical dimensions of the case (looks like the AIO tubes would be the interference) would not allow for three 140mm fan, that their database should have not allowed that selection or I'd get notification during the build phase. Has anyone else had a similar issue?
Hi! First post on Reddit! I know I’m late to the party. I’ve had a Excalibur 9 tray for about a year now and recently used it alongside another dehydrator (VERY CHEAP dehydrator) because I felt it was taking the Excalibur far too long to dehydrate fruits (Watermelon, bananas, apples). As I suspected, it seems the heat element may have gone out or was defective. I’ve been looking for a customer service # for some time now, but to no avail.
Has anyone else had heating element issues with their dehydrator or dealt with Excalibur’s customer service?
UPDATE: Engine code P0741 TCC solenoid stuck closed. Answers the rough shifting issue, going to start with a tranny flush and testing the solenoid, go from there is issue persists. Still doesn’t answer the tach inop though.
ORIGINAL: I’m having trouble finding any info on where the tachometer picks up it’s signal from. Google searches are turning up info for the speedometer and the signal from the VSS to TCM to IC but nothing on the tach. I haven’t pulled the code for the check engine light yet but what curious if I could get any advice on where to start looking. TIA.
Hi, I have a W204 C180 Kompressor and when driving today I go 2 warning messages "ESP inoperative" and "Run Flat Indicator Inoperative" along with the warning Indicator "⚠️" as a kept driving to find somewhere to pull over there was no power when trying to pull off. After pulling over a had a look around the car couldn't see anything besides a ticking noise from front left wheel area. After restarting the car the error went away and it drove fine... Anyone know what it could be?
I went through Bank/Slater twice tonight and both times drivers were clueless. Bank St may be closed, but that doesn’t mean you can blast down Slater without looking or stopping. There are still pedestrians, cyclists, and southbound vehicles turning left!
-
Dwarven Centurion Blade, Detached 3,500g
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Dwarven Centurion Hammer, Detached 3,500g
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Dwarven Crystal Mechanism 50,000g
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Dwarven Orrery, Reference 25,000g
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Dwarven Schematics, Technical 8,000g
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Dwarven Spider Legs, Inoperative 3,500g
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Dwarven Urn, Masks (Opens/Closes) 8,000g NEW
Pictures and more info here: http://lovelynorth.com/luxury-vendor/
Called their support number--they couldn't tell me the status of the stations.
Ive had it appear on the car the last 3 days. Ive tried a new battery, aswell as turning the steering wheel full lock left and right with no success. It comes on soon as i drive off over 10mph+. Diagnostic shows no problems with the Abs sensors on the wheels. Ive also disconnected the ABS module to give it a "Reset" but again no success.
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Im preparing for my PPL SEL exam in a few days and came across a practice scenario that I want to verify I have the right understanding of.
“You hold a PPL with a SEL rating. The aircraft you and a friend rent has inoperative landing light, #2 NAV/COM radio is not working and GPS database is 10 months out of date. Flight is conducted at night”
My response to this scenario would be that landing lights are not required since the flight is not for hire. Also that #2 NAV/COM radio nor updated gps is required. A sectional chart may be used for vfr navigation. The inoperative equipment should be placarded. The pilot should double check the kind of operations equipment lists, and airworthiness directives as well. Lastly, the PIC should assess their ability to safely fly with the inoperative equipment but no regulations prevent the pilot from making the flight so long as the KOELs and ADs do not require the inoperative equipment.
Let me know if I got that all right :)
Hi
I wonder if anyone can help me?
I have a 2004 Honda Civic Sport that unfortunately failed its MOT due to:-
Headlamp levelling device inoperative
Both lights do not move when the switch is moved which makes me think that it is
an electrical fault rather than a mechanical one.
I have replaced the switch, unfortunately, this has not fixed the problem.
Many Thanks
Hello my 2010 c300 has randomly popped up with these two messages that interchange on my dash.
They popped up at the same time and I never had these messages pop up before. They started to show up after a normal drive through town less than 35mph. I parked for ten minutes and when I started my car and accelerated past 10mph these messages pop up.
The power steering is working despite the message
The car is 54k miles.
The esp backlight was on the esp button during the drive before the messages popped up. Since then the esp backlight doesn't show up on the button and pressing the esp button causes yellow ! to light up on the dash like in the pictures if I am parked when the car is on.
My battery about a month and a half old is at a good level.
Error codes that pop up using a normal OBD scanner from AutoZone:
Anti-Lock Brake System Secondary Trouble Codes
6001 The Supply Voltage Of Control Unit "N30/4 (Electronic Stability Program Control Unit)" Is Too High(overvoltage)"
6000
5001
Things I have tried:
I have read that you can try turning the wheel left and right to reset the esp system. Didn't work for me.
I looked at the esp system and it looked fine, I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the esp module from under the hood, the messages it still show up
Things I hear can help that I have not tried:
Checking the wheel sensors
Getting a full diagnostic from an advanced benz scanner
Has anyone experienced this? Do you guys have any recommendations on what I can do to fix this or ideas what it can be? Do you guys think it could be a fuse or sensor?
I'm trying to troubleshoot before I take it to get service to try and save some money.
https://preview.redd.it/4z8i4wfgn5981.jpg?width=826&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=401a82a2bb63e8ddb7d03a15eb0eef40dceaf828
-
Dwarven Centurion Blade, Detached 3,500g
-
Dwarven Centurion Hammer, Detached 3,500g
-
Dwarven Crystal Mechanism 50,000g
-
Dwarven Orrery, Reference 25,000g
-
Dwarven Schematics, Technical 8,000g
-
Dwarven Spider Legs, Inoperative 3,500g
-
Dwarven Urn, Masks (Opens/Closes) 8,000g NEW
Pictures and more info here: http://lovelynorth.com/luxury-vendor/
