Hi folks. UK immersion heater in cylinder. Currently it knocks out the trip the second its fused spur is activated. Is this likely to be the heater at fault? How easy are these to change? New to DIY stuff but semi aware of practical things generally.
For a bit of context, I'm looking to convert my outbuilding into an annexe, and am currently looking at boiler options.
There's no gas supply, so it will need to be electric. That said, I don't want it using huge amounts of electricity, so I'm not sure whether to go for a combi, or an immersion heater.
Any help or insight as to which is best in terms of usage would be much appreciated! Thank you
Hey all, I’ve recently moved in to a new ish property and the previous owner left me with 2 nest learning thermostats still wired although reset. The setup is a ideal logic 12 boiler downstairs and one thermostat (+ heat link).
on the first floor there’s an immersion heater with a heat link and a thermostat on the top floor, assuming this pairs with the heat link on the first floor.
How would I go about setting it up on the nests?
I’ve tried setting up each one individually as a standard thermostat with hot water control (on/off) and neither of them seem to make the immersion heater kick in in when it’s scheduled to, however it does seem to kick in whenever someone runs a tap.
I've reacenlty moved in to a very old house in a rural area, the house has oil central heating. The boiler is serviced and working well for heating, but old and the piping and system is no doubt as old with the exception of the tank in the roof thats been replaced at some point, although ive yet to take a look at it. My plan is to replace the entire system when i build a new extension in a few years, however for the time being i need to keep this system running as best I can and not spend too much on it.
The main problem is the oil boiler seems to do a pretty poor job of heating water, its just about hot enough for a shower, I dont think there is anything I can do about this other than topping up the heat with an immersion heater. The second problem is the hot water tank appears to be very small, do a bit of washing up with the tap running and there is little hot water left for anything else. The final issue is i dont know anything about the immersion heater, that gets things super hot, so hot in fact, i doubt there is a thermostat on it, which means I cant leave it on.
Part of the problem with the water tank is its just a copper cylider that someone has put a heat jacket around which im guessing is doing bob all to keep the heat in, If i keep the cylinder is there a better way to insulate it to keep more of the heat in?, should i wrap it in loft insulation or empty 10 cans of expanding foam on to it (joke)? is it usually expencive to replace the tank with something bigger and more efficient, if its a direct swap? there is plenty of room for it in the cupboard.
The thermostat appears to be a Santon Dual Immersion Heater, with a Switch on top for Sink and Bath (set to sink). ive no idea how old it is, but googling doesnt bring up much about the brand, should i replace it with something more modern, id like to be able to turn it on and leave it on without worrying it might boil over or burn someone.
Ive looked at converting things to none vented etc, but im planning a large extension at some future distant point and im not sure its worth investing a lot of money only to potentially change it in the future, however if the best step is changing the tank then i would probably look to do that. Id work with a plumber no doubt, but i just want to know what im talking about before engaging one directly.
Thanks
Illustration The idea is to passively cook stuff in a small thermos food jar by taking advantage of the trapped heat. These flasks typically market 18/8 or SU304 stainless steel construction and some sort of vacuum insulation method within their double or triple layer walls to preserve the temperatures of the contents inside over longer periods irrespective of the outside temperature.
I'm not sure how the water heating immersion rod actually works... If I googled it correctly, there is a cooper wire running inside the rod structure through which current is passing when plugged on an AC outlet. The current heats up the wire, which heats up the inner air chamber, which heats up the metal rod... is this basically correct?
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From an electrical point of view, is it safe to do what is shown in the video or is there a risk of electrical shock by touching the metal thermos flask? I don't really understand the electrical aspect of it and have been reading conflicting information. I noticed he kept his hands of the thermos flask while the heating rod was heating up the water inside...
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In principle, I would have assumed that one wouldn't have to worry about the thermos being too hot to the touch since the inner and outer walls of the flask are not supposed to be thermally coupled (right?)... But after inspecting some closeup pictures I've found online, it kind of looks like the whole stainless steel structure of this specific flask is actually a single piece... then how on hell could the thermal insulation work the way it does in the first place?? Maybe it's not really one single piece and the seams are just very very hard to tell... or maybe the lid of the container needs to be put on for the thermal insulation to work somehow?
I don't know what to think. Hope it's not an inappropriate question for this sub.
Appreciate any info because I'd like to cook myself some yumy by this hassle-free method too.
So I had a new boiler and HW cylinder fitted a couple of years ago. Yesterday we noticed a wet patch in the bathroom that I traced back to the cylinder and particularly the immersion heater.
Taking the heater out (had to go buy one of those box spanners), the joint was very gunky so I think the plumber who fitted it used loads of sealant on the washer and that's eventually degraded, causing the leak.
So I bought a new washer and fitted it with some PTFE tape. Knocked it tight with a hammer and left it to soak overnight but it won't stop weeping.
I'm pretty sure the cylinder isn't corroded because it looks fine and is pretty new anyway. (I lost a kitchen ceiling to an old corroded copper cylinder years ago btw, wasn't fun.)
I bought some potable water jointing paste but that didn't work either. Any suggestions??
EDIT: added some pictures https://imgur.com/a/9uqPYa8
For a bit of context, I'm looking to convert my outbuilding into an annexe, and am currently looking at boiler options.
There's no gas supply, so it will need to be electric. That said, I don't want it using huge amounts of electricity, so I'm not sure whether to go for a combi, or an immersion heater.
Any help or insight as to which is best in terms of usage would be much appreciated! Thank you
