A typical space heater you’d plug into a wall generates from 10,000 to 40,000 BTU per hour. In comparison, according to the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST), a candle generates 263 BTU per hour.
A Toyota 4Runner is about 88 cubic feet. According to this BTU calculator, it would take around 5,100 BTU to raise the temperature by 40°F.
A person produces about 330 BTU an hour (on a 2,000 calorie per day diet), so we’ll knock that off. That means you’d need about 18 candles to keep you from getting hypothermia in freezing conditions.
The fire risk of having 18 candles burning in a car is high, not to mention the carbon monoxide. A simple backpacking stove produces around 8,500 BTU per hour, although once again there’s risk of carbon monoxide—but you can boil water outside of your car and then put it into a water bottle or Nalgene bottle and use that as a heater in a sleeping bag or under an emergency blanket.
TL;DR - Candles are dangerous and provide very little heat. Don’t use them in a car!
Edit: Lots of comments from people saying that a candle is better than nothing. Of course that’s true. But the point of my post was to make people consider that there are much better options to rely on for heat in your car than a candle, which is marginally effective at best. Even a can of Sterno puts out 2,500 BTU per hour, almost ten times as much.
I would like to be able to set the temperature of my shower to a specific temperature rather than feeling it out every morning, guessing roughly where I need to turn the knob.
I was wondering what the most cost effective way to do this is? I saw that with the Kohler controller and accompanying interface, it'll be $1000 for the equipment alone.
If that's the reality of it, then I'll pay it, but I wanted to ask and see what options were out there for a "smart shower."
Bells and whistles are nice, but the priority is being able to input a temperature and take a shower at that temperature, so I can figure out what's comfortable for me and take a step out of my morning routine (and I think it'd also be good for my skin and hair)
Hello, I am into hobby rocketry, and I am looking into using metal leading edges on the fins of a supersonic rocket to prevent the large amounts of heat flux from damaging the fin's core material. How can I determine an effective upper temperature limit for each alloy?
I have found several aluminum alloys with good thermal properties. However, I am not sure if they will maintain structural integrity on the fins at their high operating temperature. It is easy to find the melting temperature of each alloy, but the strength of the alloys will still decrease at temperatures below melting. Would the hot-work temperature be an effective limit?
My rig is in Argentina and it's awesome in winter, you just leave the window open far from the rig and there you go.
However the temperature during summer reached 42c outside and inside it was hell on earth, even with the windows open.
I'm thinking of buying an extractor and I have an industrial fan in the meantime but it reaches a point where my rig turns off and I'm crazy afraid it can stop working.
I wanted to buy an AC but I'm not sure if that will do and if it will be quite cost effective.
I pay 50-60 usd per month in electricity for that room and my rig has 8 gpus @ 370mh/s . It makes a bit more than 0.01eth per day.
This project has been crazy fun, who knew there would be so many challenges!
Are "meaningful actions" enough to stay below 1.5, or do we also need the IPCC report to be wrong? Is it reasonable to pursue efforts to avoid something that is now unavoidable? Shouldn't more realistic goals be declared instead?
Setting impossible goals does not look "meaningful" to me. It seems that these people do not know what the actual situation is...
The G20 communique:
Hello fine people!
Yesterday I flashed 4 x ESP32-based Sonoff S31 with tasmota, spun up MQTT and home-assistant-core docker images on my home server and set up a simple dashboard to measure power to two 120V appliances. I did some tweaking and put the ESP32s on my dedicated IOT 2.4GHz wireless network (Unifi based), played a bit with the timings and the dashboard, and energy monitoring. I still have to calibrate the power measurement on these but as Proof of Concepts go, it was a success.
I say this just to establish my skillset, even though I am a complete noob with HA.
What's Next?
I need to set up an array of temperature sensors, and humidity. They could be combination sensors.
I started looking at sensors and it seemed overwhelming. At first I was looking at ESP32 then realized, these can and should be wired. My project is DC based (10-30V) so I don't want sensors that depend on mains power.
Can I use something like a microcontroller to concentrate all the signals from the sensors?
In terms of rigging this, I'll have sensors in groups in particular areas so their communications could be aggregated, but there would be multiple aggregation points.
I could really use some direction on building blocks for this. Thank you so much!!
I’m considering going to Mexico and buying 1 ml pens (double my dosage, which should last me 2 months)
Will the drug still be active after 2 months?
When it comes to #voltage references, not only are they important, but they must be stable, especially when it comes to #temperature. Targeting just that, Microchip has released a new voltage reference IC.
Sorry, tuwing 3AM kasi ako napapaisip kung ano ba talaga puwede gawin sa bahay namin dahil mala-impyerno na naman ang panahon ngayon. Installing a centralized AC system is out of the question kasi ang sobrang mahal 'tsaka hindi environmentally friendly. Tina-try ko mag-Google ng "ways to keep house cool" pero usually ang search results, galing sa US or US standards ang sinusundan ko ang usual na suggestion ay dapat sealed ang bahay at well-insulated and dry walls.
For example, ano ang puwedeng mga idagdag sa mga bintana, ventillation system, etc., para hindi super init ng bahay? For some context, single detached house ang bahay namin. Mataas ang kisame (more than 10ft siguro). Mahirap lang puro concrete yung walls, feel ko doon din nanggagaling ang init. Makakatulong ba kung may plants kunwari sa may pader, or kung may awning ba yung mga bintana?
Thanks! Hay, ang init kahit 3AM na.
Context: Purified proteins that are not generally damaged by freezing beyond the normal freezing-induced aggregation.
Additional Context: This Freezing-induced agregation is normally something that can be completely ignored, but it's unacceptable in CryoEM. I am looking not to have to re-do SEC after every freeze because while it is not a complicated method, it does result in the loss of a substantial amount of protein especially over successive runs, which become necessary simply to have enough to run on even the smallest column. While some of this might be mitigated by 'getting good' at chromatography, it is generally accepted that any processing leads to loss of protein, and I've been doing this protien chromatography for years, so I'm at the accept I can't do any better and try to work around it stage.
Clarifying the question: Should I bring my sample to 4C, 25C, or 37C before dunking it in liquid Nitrogen? Obviously it should be stored as cold as possible (-80C, or ideally in the dewar) and it should be rapidly de-thawed (37C), but I'm not clear on the best way to vitrify in the first place.
I'm leaning towards 4C. Again, assuming the proteins aren't temperature sensitive, my first inclination is to lower the temp to let them fold in more, but I'm not sure if that makes it any easier for the water to nucleate. Similarly, I worry that having the temp high will make it take longer to freeze thus allowing for crystal formation.
Do you have any thoughts on this?
Currently my bed can achieve 140c on the thermistor underneath the bed and 122c on the build surface, but I need to hit surface temperatures in the 140-160c range. My bed heater can barely get to 140c as it is so would how effective would insulating my bed be?
Currently trying to clean my apartment and I started wondering this.
I've tried the wool clothing, and yet I still get hypothermia. if there any sort of clothing that actually combats cold without having to place down a heating coil every inch of land to travel on?
My post comes from me thinking about my Console. The wife forces me to the garage, which I've embraced and created into a man-cave. I've been gaming in my garage for 4 years, and my Xbox has been fine so far. But summers here are between 93 and 110 degrees. So i just got to thinking...
Am I shortening the life of my console? Does the outside temperature affect my console? Does the internal fan mitigate that external heat? Do consoles get hotter than 100 degrees by themselves with no fan? Does the Fan fix all that? Will the built-in overheat function protect the console from longterm/short-term damage, or at least act as a barometer to tell me never play in those conditions again? If the overheating auto-off function never happens, is that a barometer that you're ok to play in those conditions?
So yeah, just a stream of questions that made me want to understand the technical side of electronics and heat. And thought this would be a good thread for many people who still make mistakes like putting their console on the carpet, covering the vents with books/TVs/Game-cases/etc, and maybe playing in their freezing cold or blazing hot garages. Thanks Community!
