Recently my Thrustmaster T.Flight Rudder Pedals (TFRP) were jittery like crazy and was starting to affect me in-game. I was able to clean the potentiometer and they are now working like new. I couldn't find a guide online so I made my own on ifixit from some pictures I took. I could have done a better job documenting the process but hopefully it will help. It's not too difficult, just a lot of screws to remove! I hope others in the community find it useful.
Link to the ifixit guide: Cleaning TFRP rudder potentiometer
No matter how much I move it, my PS2 won't read DVDs ):
I have a Game Gear that I'm repairing. I've repaired many over the years, but have never had to source a new Brightness Potentiometer.
Anyone have any idea where to source this?
So I just completed assembling one of the popular eurorack attenuverter kits, in this case I don’t think the brand is relevant. During the post-build testing I noticed strange behaviour of one of the potentiometers.
I wasn’t keen to desolder the part until I could be sure I’d identified the issue correctly. Luckily the control board was mostly passive and it was possible to test each pot in circuit. What I discovered was that one of the B100K pots behaved as if there was an internal short between the wiper and the case, so that the resistance between the 2 outer pins would change as I turned the knob (unlike all the other pots), and the resistance between the centre/wiper and one side was as low as 40 ohms for at least 3/4 of the full travel of the wiper.
I was about to call the part a write-off, but as I was reluctant to desolder and find a replacement, I thought as a last resort I would try and spray some electrical contact cleaning solvent into the gap where you can see the wiper move when you turn the knob. To my surprise it actually worked and now the pot is functioning correctly. I can only guess that maybe there was some stray flake of metal causing the wiper to short to the case? I’ve heard of pots having faulty wiper contact causing a higher resistance, but I’ve never encountered a stray short like that before.
Anyway, thankfully this module is now working correctly and this time I didn’t have to desolder any parts!
Hi, I have a cheap les paul clone with 3 broken potentiometers and I plan to replace them. Where would you use A (logarithmic) or B (linear) pots? Polling to decide what to buy, I noticed some Chinese sources sell packs of 4 pots with 2 each
I took apart my controller down to the insides of the joysticks. I opened the joystick and cleaned the insides with 95% medicinal alcohol but it barely helped. I've been considering using acetone but I'm not sure if that might cause problems or not.
Any tips?
I've been trying to use an expression pedal as a potentiometer with a Teensy 2.0, a microcontroller similar to an Arduino. I am connecting the pedal using a 1/4" TRS cable to the the pins of the microcontroller using the schematic here:
There's really not much going on, there is 5V from the microcontroller which is powered via USB. The ring of the expression pedal cable is connected to analog pin 6 and I have added a small current limiting resistor to the path to the cable. Here is a picture of my circuit along with the breadboard.
https://preview.redd.it/50fcy2k9dh281.jpg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ade2776562308bcf78db3a99759d4f20614f30bf
On two separate occasions I have come back to find that my expression pedals have started malfunctioning- usually only displaying a few resistance values over the full sweep. This appears to indicate that the wipers on the pot are not making contact anymore. I opened up the expression pedal (Moog EP3) to verify this and indeed, the pot circled in the picture only changes its resistance at the ends of the wiper's range (82k ohms for most of the travel, then abruptly changes to 0)
The dead pot inside the expression pedal
Any ways to troubleshoot this? I have got to be missing something here.
On my headphone amp, I just changed my jack for a better one, was expecting no change, but it made a difference. I was very pleased.
Then I changed the volume pot and it seems to have lost some of its clarity.
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/2cp601-dual-taper-potentiometer-p-7321.html
I wasn't necessarily expecting to notice an obvious improvement, but I think it went backwards.
I will need to swap the old one back in to clarify, but I am quite the noob and it takes me ages :)
So I thought I would check this thought out first.
I know some things need to break in, I wondered if Pots do as well?
Thanks.
Here we are in 2022. Did we ever find a source for the original potentiometer assemblies used in the Xbox 360 controller?
Searches for specific things via Google aren’t working so well recently, a lot of spammy results similar to the junk YouTube throws at ya. Maybe it’s a regional ISP thing?
Anyway, I’m among the people with a thumbstick giving a wide deadzone and draggy aiming. Fine aiming is almost impossible and it’s killing me.
Pretty new to this.
I have swapped out the pot on my HPA for a 'better' one.
I struggled with the soldering.
I basically ended up tinning and reflowing, so there is no fresh flux.
I struggled to get everything lined up.
With all the wires going up and around each other.The old one was easier, it had holes to loop the wires round to hold them for soldering.
I imagine there is a better way to do it?
Thanks.
Hi guys,
I'm completely new to this sub, so... Hello There! I hope my concern fits in here.
I read through the service manual, googled and looked for disassembly tuts.
I could post the service manual if that fits the rules in this sub.
My Pioneer A-30 amplifier developed the quirk that the left stereo channel went bad.
When i fumbled around long enough with the balance potentiometer randomly, gentle push or pull twist and what else, then the sound is perfect until I release the knob... )-:
Symptoms: Sometimes very low volume on one and/or both channels, but almost every time in "loosing" the majority of frequences.
I could get around so far because this amplifier has a function called "Direct Input", which somehow bypasses the manipulation (Bass/Treble/Balance) of the input, only volume is adjustable in this mode.
Trying to fix this, I opened the case and had a look, tried to clean as good as possible, sprayed contact-cleaning-spray (sorry I don't know the english term) into the potentiometers and moved them forth and back.
After cleaning I tried it again and at first it worked well, like brand new, but after a few turns, the old habbit retourned.
In this whole cleaning process, I wasn't able to get the cap of the pin of the potentiometer. (See front.jpg) What whould be necessary in my opinion.
On the backside there is a tiny torx screw which moves the whole knob including the cap, but can't be unscrewed. (so pictures back/back2) I didn't want to break anything, so I only pulled the cap with gentle force. Does it simply needs be pulled stronger?
I had the idea of simply disconnecting the broken (balance-)circuit, I don't need it anyway. Is it somehow possible and safe to unsolder the broken potentiometer? Or would there any new problems rising with this procedure, like mismatching voltage or something I don't even think of?
https://preview.redd.it/u9raptefbwa81.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=05497675a697aa7740f3df8aa1f749bc8da03809
https://preview.redd.it/yandusefbwa81.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e34fc5ff7a35871d85957ef92543157be85d43c4
https://preview.redd.it/n51vptefbwa81.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2081ccb8d2b86a17a5e3a1bc43ad025273811014
I am making a calculator. When I turn a pot it changes the operand (+,-,*,/) And I call it "Op"
How do I get it to stick into the equation and work?
lcd.print (Num1 (Op) Num2);
I get an error on that and any variation I have tried. Can a variable be used inside an equation?
Hi all, I have wired up 8 pots to a Leo Bodnar BUO836X and am trying to bind them as an axis. DCS isn’t detecting them but they are detected in Windows Game Controller. Any help would be appreciated.
Hello, i am currently having a problem with my Logitech G29, the brake is always flickering even if i don't press the brakes, so i suspect that the potentiometer is dirty. I'm trying to find a way to clean the potentiometer but im a bit skeptical with the tutorials i saw on youtube. Can i just spray a contact cleaner like a wd40 or something to the potentiometer without needing to remove it from the pedal? Or is there another way to do a quick clean safely?
Hi guys! I’ve been trying to understand the internal block schematic of the AD5206 digital potentiometer. I have a decent understanding of how everything works and how to use this integrated circuit, but my mind has been boggling over something for a while… This is regarding the internal shift register consisting of eleven bits in total, where the three first bits determine which variable resistor-latch to enable at a time, and the eight last bits for setting the correct resistor value to each of the VR outputs. My problem here is that the function block diagram only shows seven paths for the bits to go from the shift register to the VR latch, and not eight. Is this a fault, or is there something I seem to be missing?
This is the internal block diagram in its entirety.
This is a snippet of the 7 out of what I expected to be 8 pins.
Thanks in advance.
