How loud are DT Swiss pawl hubs compared to the star ratchet hubs? I’m considering upgrading the internals on my 370 but I don’t want a hub that will be much quieter. Thanks!
What is the DFF episode where Paul says he just took some shrooms and just dies laughing the whole episode?? Really want to listen to that one again.
Thank you Paul
855-242-PAUL
Uj/ fooled y'all. I have an epiphone Les Paul from circa 2003. I figured you lot might have some suggestions for replacement pickups.
Rj/ IS CUM A GOOD LUBE FOR FRETBOARDS?
I'm having an issue with Shimano EF-500 shifters (for FD) and the Shimano Tourney Front Derailleur, used in conjunction with Biopace 28/38/48 Elliptical Chainrings. I aligned the FD, and tensioned everything so that it shifts between the chainrings, with minimal rub. Everything is new on the bike, checked the cables/housings, ensured the shifters aren't gunked up, etc.
The issue: When shifting to the 48T chainring, the chain has a 50% chance of dropping. So I reset the hi-limit screw on the FD and the cable tension; now the chain doesn't drop, but the shifter pawl won't engage, so the chain will then drop back to the 38T middle chainring unless the shifter is continually pressed.
The only thing I can think of is that the FD isn't designed for 48T Ellipticals with 20T range (which would equate to 46T Circular / 20T Range), as the original chainring was 24/34/42, so I'm assuming the FD is a Tourney 700/500 with 42T max/18T capacity. But I also know that capacity and max teeth has a bit of wiggle room, and the fact that it "can" shift makes me think it's more of a shifter problem.
So I took off the shifter case, and the third pawl is larger and differently shaped compared to the second pawl. When shifting to the largest chainring, it gets stuck right on the lip of the pawl, and the hi-limit screw prevents the 1mm travel necessary to engage the pawl even when the shift lever is fully and quickly pressed. So now I'm wondering if I'm an idiot and missing something fundamental, or if I should be stupidly reckless and disassemble the shifter so I can file and polish the pawl.
For the record, I've set up the same crankset with a Tourney TX800 FD and TX50 Shifters with no problems, which is why I'm wondering if I'm overlooking something on this build.
Any advice?
Im pretty new to mountain biking and I was wondering which type of hubs would be better. I'd like to know the pros and cons of both hubs if possible. I ride XC
Been thinking about what type hubs I should buy, and im fairly new to the sport so idk much about hubs. But could anyone tell me the pros and cons of both?
EDIT: Looks like this is a fairly common issue and warranty is my best bet. 1) Competitive Cyclist reviews; 2) this video + comments; 3) MTBR thread
The pawl to shift up the cassette is not engaging. It randomly stopped working in the middle of a ride and only functions if it randomly falls into place. I opened up the system and cleaned it out, but noticed that the pawl doesn't stay under tension (therefore is rarely attached to the ratchet). It pretty much flops in whatever direction gravity or jostling will take it.
Any idea how to fix this? The shifter is 7 months old.
https://preview.redd.it/mqf7ys1bs5n71.jpg?width=3456&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a05750834185320cb8437c5cb00c8eacf90e3081
I have a Zipp 303 wheelset with an 11 speed SRAM 11-32 cassette fitted, which needs replacing.
I used my chain whip and cassette removal tool to loosen off the locking ring to slide the cassette off just like I would on a good old fashioned Shimano/Freehub setup, but the XD/freehub thing for the SRAM cassette comes off complete leaving it as part of the cassette, and the pawls are now all visible on the back end of the cassette.
Somehow the two bearing races and their 'hub' are stuck in the cassette and havent stayed on the wheel itself, so what have i missed ?
I thought I could slide the cassette off just like on Shimano, and leave the whole hub assembly attached to the wheel, but I cant see what I have missed to do this as the 'hub' seems firmly stuck inside the cassette with no obvious locking ring holding it there ?
Guidance appreciated !
I have a 2003 Ford ranger with a 4.0 engine and four-wheel drive automatic transmission and a little over 200,000 mi. When I go down the highway and take my foot off the gas intermittently the speedometer drops rapidly, faster than the truck does, and it sounds like the parking pawl is trying to engage. The slower the truck goes the faster the sound of the parking pawl is. For about a week or two before this started I thought it had an engine miss. It would intermittently misfire or backfire usually under a slight load so I put in plugs wires and the coil pack. The tune-up didn't fix it and it started doing its misfire/backfire repeatedly going down the road all of a sudden until it didn't and then this new symptom arose. Anybody have a clue or run into something like that before?
Balak ko sana bawasan yung pawls ng hubs ko pwede kaya yun or magkakaroon ng problema?
I haven’t been able to find anything online that gives me enough to go off of. What is “palming” the reel? I can’t seem to find any videos showing how this is done either.
