SOLD - thanks for the entertainment in the comments
There comes a time in a man's life when he decides he's found the woman of his dreams and gets married. She loves him dearly, so much so that when he rides his motorcycle, she wishes him a good time - but on the inside, she worries the entire time he's out. He always comes home safely, but the thought of something happening is just a lot for her.
Later in their relationship, the man and his loving wife have a beautiful baby girl. She's playful and bouncy and a wonderful thing to have in his life. He thinks about riding his motorcycle now and then, but he soon realizes that it's probably best to trade his joy riding the bike for joy in a safe car with a car seat and stroller and whathaveyou.
So, here goes... for sale - a low mileage Kawasaki Ninja 300. Getting it out of the way - the prior owner had a low-speed accident on the right side of the bike. Mechanically the bike is A+, but the exhaust and one of the fairings are a little banged up. You, future owner, can fix all of this but - it's a cheap bike, and it's black, and you wouldn't notice if you weren't staring at it.
The bike has a brand new battery and starts on the first push of the starter. I'll make sure the engine is cold if you want to take a look. Oil changes have been done regularly. The bike has a new chain which I just lovingly cleaned and waxed for your riding comfort. A USB charger/battery charging access port is available under the passenger seat along with a little tool kit. A fender eliminator was installed to get rid of the ugly fender.
All in all - it's a great bike and if taken care of - will give you lots of smiles as you buzz around town. Comes with a free tank of gas! Wow!
Thanks for taking a look! Come visit in Sherman Oaks - Sepulveda and Ventura area.
Tyler - 310-357-3655
I'm trying to replace a UV5R in my APRS rig; the UV5R has a lot of spurious emissions and blankets the neighboring frequencies with noise any time it transmits. My setup currently uses a lithium power station that powers the UV5R via a 12v car outlet battery eliminator and I'm using VOX for the transmit. Was wondering if anyone knew of an HT that had battery eliminators on the market that have VOX capabilities. I'm at a loss because the ones I'm finding either have VOX but don't have battery eliminators on the market or do have a battery eliminator but no VOX. Thanks in advance for any advice!
If I want to use the UV-5r as a desktop scanner, what are my options to keep it plugged in 24/7? Best I can see is I would buy the 12v DC battery eliminator and use a AC/DC 12v converter to plug it into the wall. Not sure if would work well though...
(I know this has been asked previously, but there hasn't been a good solution posted yet. )
I'm planning to turn my UV-5R into a desktop radio, as i already have a suitable band-pass filter and an outdoor antenna. However, the power supply remains a problem.
My initial plan was to use a battery eliminator that you can buy for like $ 2 from AliExpress together with a 220V AC to 12V DC adapter with a car lighter socket. However, i have heard that these eliminators can't handle 2 amps (the consumption when transmitting on high power) and you can basically use the radio only as a receiver. Is that true?
What is the cheapest way possible to make a power supply for the UV-5R that can hold when transmitting on high power? I'm also curious if anyone have tested these eliminators under load and measured how much of a current they can handle?
We have a number of battery powered Christmas decorations we want to place on plant shelves and on top of cabinets in our home and I’d really like to remotely control them with smart plugs. I found these battery eliminators on Amazon, but curious if anyone has used them or a similar product or has any better ideas?
Lenink AA Battery Eliminator Power Supply Adapter,Replace 4 AA Battery(2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XQSNTDV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_MmlYDb1ASCNTZ
I've been using my UV-5R with a battery eliminator I got from ebay, and a pc PSU for some time. It seems to work perfectly but all this time I was worried about supplying it 12V instead of something in the 13.5-14 range a car would supply when running.
So today I made a Frankenstein psu with a laptop charger and a step down converter that can be set to 13.8V. I tried to run the radio with this, and immediately It smelled of burning plastic. I thought the cheap Chinese step down converter was at fault (couldn't handle the current or something), but that was not the case. I was also measuring all voltages and everything was super stable.
Turns out the battery eliminator plastic was melting! Even without load the eliminator was super hot (its a small pcb with a heatsink inside). So I tried the same with 12V, and it got cool again. Didn't heat up even under load. Same thing with the PC psu and Frankestein when set to 12.0V.
How do they sell something for car usage that can't handle car voltages? Is this a common issue with those battery eliminators? I've googled it a bit and discovered there are even cheaper versions with a single chip directly soldered to the pins, and some slightly better with a whole PCB with heatsinks. Seems I have the mid-range one.
I carry a big ol' external battery to charge my stuff when I go out on the trail, because I have an XT350, an air-cooled, kick only, eighties bike with a pretty weak stator. I've got access to some very, very cheap low-end 18650's through work, which has got me thinking: What about building a really big one into the bike and using that to run some bright-ass lights for what little night riding I do, and the remaining juice to charge my laptop or phone or whatever at camp?
Am I crazy? How big of a fire extinguisher should I bring?
Does anyone have an FT-11R battery eliminator for my car they might want to sell or trade.
I have several BF-888 radios and I want to use one as a base station that's always turned on.
I read elsewhere that it's not good to leave these radios powered on while charging, so I wanted to see if there's a way to eliminate the battery.
I see there's battery eliminators for the Baofeng models used for Amateur Radio, but none for the more basic models like the 888s.
Does anyone know if such a thing exists?
I've just ordered an ADS-WS1 weather station to replace a cobbled together system that is using Acurite hardware and APRS-IS. I was hoping to strap a cheap Baofeng radio to it to use as the transceiver.
I have never tried Baofeng products but can hit my local digipeater easily with an old ICOM IC-V8 just by keying it and holding a phone with APRSDroid up to the mic. It is 6km away on a hilltop.
I also see a million battery eliminators out there and I'm sure many are fake and the rest are junk. This station runs off a deep cycle battery and solar panel, so I'm looking for one that actually contains a switching supply and won't just dissipate all my power as heat. Any recommendations?
I'm working on a little project with my Baofeng UV-B5 where I'd like it to stay on while plugged sitting on my desk at home. I know there are DC battery eliminators for use while in your car, is there anything similar for home use?
I know it's not a good idea to use the radio while it is in the charging base. I'd like to avoid a constant charge to the battery if at all possible but have come up empty in my search results so far.
Hi, first post here, and I'm a complete novice in electronic DIY, so please be gentle :P
I have a pair of Skullcandy Headphones. They have separate base elements, running off of a AA battery slotted into one of the ear cups. The sounds is pretty good, to my layman's ears, but it has an issue: I've discovered that they draw current even when the headphones aren't connected or playing any sound. This leads to very low actual battery life, which isn't optimal by any means.
So, my thought was: Would it be possible to replace the battery with a second cord, driven from the Micro-USB port on my phone?
This comes with a load of sub-questions:
- How do I make my phone output electricity through the micro-USB jack? Is it triggered by shorting specific connectors in the jack, or does it somehow detect a potential difference in a connected appliance and start outputting automatically?
- How can I find out what the output voltage and current of the USB jack is?
- I assume that the output voltage is different between a AA battery and the Micro-USB jack, so I'd probably need a transformer of some description, to avoid overheating and broken electronics. Are there inexpensive, small scale transformers available as separate parts on the market, or would I need to salvage one from some other electronic appliance/build my own?
Any input is appreciated!
If you have a BaoFeng UV-5R, you've almost certainly looked for a battery eliminator on Amazon. And if you've purchased one, you've discovered that they're typically little more than a hollowed out battery housing with a cigarette lighter adapter cable coming into one end and a couple of contacts for the radio on the other end with an 8V regulator in between. You'll also have found that they get really hot during prolonged use, especially on transmit. That's because the regulator is an old fashioned linear regulator and it's converting the voltage difference between the input voltage and the output voltage to heat. But despair not! Your battery eliminator can be saved and made considerably more efficient.
The trick is to go back to Amazon and look for a "buck switching regulator", specifically, something that can handle at least 10 to 15 volts in, can handle a couple of amps of current and has an adjustable voltage output range covering 8V. I found a five pack of them for $10 (who can't use extra voltage regulators?). Carefully pry open the battery eliminator and unsolder the input and output leads, making sure to note which is positive and which is negative. If there are some electrolytic capacitors, remove those as well, we'll transfer them to the new regulator as extra filtering. Take a look at the new regulator board and determine the inputs and outputs, solder the capacitors (if any) across the appropriate leads (usually, input capacitor will have a higher voltage rating than the output capacitor), then connect up the power leads. Attach it to a 12V input and put a voltmeter on the output, then adjust the output to 8V. If the adjustment is a trimpot, use a drop of nail polish to lock it in place. Reassemble everything, then double check the output voltage. If it's reasonably close to 8V (+/- 0.25V), remove the power and install the eliminator into the radio. Reattach the power and turn on the radio, it should come right up and show a full battery on the gauge.
disclaimer I am not responsible for any damage done, these instructions worked on my radio, on my bench, your results may vary (but shouldn't!).
Hey, I'm new to this topic and I was trying to make a hobby out of this. I was wonder what the difference between a battery eliminator circuit and resistor is. They both regulate voltage right? Thanks. [Update] I understand mostly what the difference between the BEC and a resistor is. Thank you guys so much for helping me understand this concept!
I bought a Switronix DVGP3USB for my Hero 3 and after only 6 months it's failed me with internal wiring coming loose. Looking for alternatives. What do you use?
is there a way i can make a battery eliminator for a uv-82?
i know i could buy one.
I'd rather see what homebrew options are out there.
tia
Hello, I'm very new to ham radio (literally took my tech and general exams yesterday) and was looking at picking up a UV-5R to at least get started until I get done with school and can both afford and have room for a full set up. I was looking at the UV-5R and noticed the battery eliminators but it seems anything on Amazon uses a linear regulator which can melt the plastic. That made me wonder if anyone knows of one that uses a switching DC-DC convertor or if someone has perhaps bought one of the linear reg models to gut and replace the internals with a 7.4V UBEC?
My last post mentions the current project I'm on. My main question is: do these battery eliminators work with a standard outlet? I see all this talk about using external power sources but it doesn't seem like anyone is using these for the soul purpose of plugging it into the wall.
Also, will I be able to use the wifi function with the Gopro like this? Previously with only the mini usb connected to the Gopro with no battery inside, it would record video. However, about 10 seconds after turning wifi on, it would automatically turn off.
I guess I'm really looking for someone to test these out for me.
Side note: I'm looking into this battery eliminator. Do you think this could be a hazard? The price seems somewhat too-good-to-be-true.
Thanks so much for the help in advance.
I just got a battery eliminator, and hooked it up. I started up the bike and it idles awesomely with it. If I turn on the lights, it kills the engine. If I rev the engine, it dies.
Could this indicate an issue with the charging system, or is it the battery eliminator? This is for my 1974 CB125s.
Its a GN125 if that makes any difference.
Hi everyone,
This was a small project that I undertook to use a Baofeng HT in an APRS tracker for my car--I thought I would share. It's nothing exotic or special, but I thought it was a clever combination of well fitted parts.
The stock Boafeng battery eliminators have regulators that take the 12v and drop it to around 7.5v. The regulator is located in the shell of the cigarette lighter plug. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Baofeng-Car-Charger-Battery-Eliminator-for-UV-82-UV-82L-UV-89-Two-way-Radio-US/191982708590
You can either butcher one of those battery pack cases, or get a AA battery case and drill holes for the power leads... in either case you can squeeze in an eBay special tiny buck regulator like this into the empty battery case itself: http://www.ebay.com/itm/191697062550
Now you can connect it up to a 12v power supply. I would imagine these neat little buck regulators would fit in a number of battery eliminators.
Okay, maybe I'm just learning how useful voltage regulators are now that I'm trying to do some stuff with my car.
I have a 1974 CB125s, and I just heard about builds without batteries.
This site sells them (warning, not a pretty site).
Anyone else use anything like this? I am wondering how hard it would be to convert to one of these.
Do you really have to get the $20-$30 FTDI cable and name brand battery eliminator for things to work, or are there some cheaper off-brand ones that are known to work properly with the UV-82HP?
So I've been doing some looking into a power adapter and the power adapter 2.1 seems to be hit and miss. I also can't seem to find the 2.0 anywhere, and that's when I stumbled upon these AA battery eliminators that seem to be similar to the power adapters with a fraction of the price. I was wondering if anyone knew anything about these, are they too good to be true? Thanks link to one on amazon- https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Electric-AA-Converter-Convert/dp/B015T7TERI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
