Anyone have any insight on how one might power a DW cordless tool from the wall?
I've been monkeying around with the idea of powering my 20V DW portaband via wall power which would simplify usage while mounted on a table. I have a 40A 18V DC power supply, suitable cabling, and the shell of an old DW battery so that I can use the connections along with being able to slide the unit on and off of the tool. I've been basing some of my tests on the information presented in this fantastic teardown.
Current test setup:
- B- and B+ leads connected to 0VDC and 18VDC
- C1-C4 are attached to a voltage divider consisting of 5x 10k resistors in series. B- to C1 reads about 3.6VDC, B- to C2 reads around 7.2VDC, etc. This models the voltages read from an OEM battery on those leads
- TH has a 10kΞ© NTC thermistor to B+ which came w/ the battery shell
- 1kΞ© between ID and B-
This solution works with a few of my tools, which in my limited sample set, appears to be devices without a brushless motor. So my LED lights work with this setup, my DW heatgun works, but the portaband doesn't, nor does an impact gun, oscillating multi-tool, etc.
The tools which don't work all exhibit the same behavior: the white LED will flash (if the tool has one) for a fraction of a second with each trigger press. No other activity observed on those tools.
Additional considerations:
- I get that this is both potentially dangerous to myself and tools, and may not work with a broad range of tools. That's OK, I'm building this for myself and the use case is pretty much limited to the portaband. I'm sure I'll find other uses for the concept if I get it working, but use case is focused on the power needs for this one tool.
- Someone out of LA was selling exactly this a few 6 years ago but I don't see any record of what happened to them: https://toolguyd.com/los-gatos-power-cordless-tools-ac-adapter/
- If you think all of this is dumb and pointless, you're probably right, but I'm trying it anyway.
Hey, I'm new to this topic and I was trying to make a hobby out of this. I was wonder what the difference between a battery eliminator circuit and resistor is. They both regulate voltage right? Thanks. [Update] I understand mostly what the difference between the BEC and a resistor is. Thank you guys so much for helping me understand this concept!
Good afternoon, all.
Been lurking here for a couple months, and have learned a lot. I just purchased my Calyx membership and am looking forward to receiving my device! I opted to get the LinkZone 2, as I already have an unlocked T9 that I got from T-Mobile a few months ago.
I see that the LZ2 does not run batteryless, so I thought I'd see if anyone in the community has built or found a battery eliminator for this device.
If that is out of the question, I was curious as to if anyone had found a possible way to split the data and power coming out of the USB-C so that the device could be USB tethered to a router and simultaneously plugged in to a timer so the battery could be recharged every X hours? I've seen some cables that claim to have this functionality, but don't want to risk frying any of my hardware.
As a side note, what sort of LTE modems with external antennas work well with Calyx? I'd eventually like to rig up something like that to eliminate tethering or bridging altogether. I understand it's a TOS violation, but I'm not concerned with that. This is really just an expensive experiment for my rural Oklahoma homelab.
Thank you in advance, and thank you for all of the information in this great community!
I have a thermal imaging camera that runs off of 2 DR30 batteries. I cannot afford to buy 2 new batteries plus a a charger for the beast. The camera can operate off of 1 battery so I know the 7.2v is provided by one battery and not a circuit of 14.4v. Original spec for this thing is 5hrs of battery life with 2 fully charged packs, I get 10 minutes tops. Its for sure time to figure something out. I had an online consultation and they kinda insulted me that it was not worth their time to design something for such an outdated system. Any advice here guys of how to wire in a battery eliminator system? This is basically my last stand of trying to get this thing proper.
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Battery underside showing specs and terminals on top right
Cover removed showing terminal hook ups
two battery slots shown with terminal points on right side of slots
So I've got six pairs of SMA modded Sennheiser G3 radio mics now and am getting a bit tired of changing so many AA batteries each day.
The battery for my sound recorder also has a 5V Usb output, I was thinking I could just buy a 6 port USB hub and put six of these 3V battery eliminator kits in each Sennheiser G3 receiver.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/392935504610?hash=item5b7cc7fae2:g:-goAAOSwgbVfWJKb&frcectupt=true
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/124907773144?hash=item1d15155cd8:g:OBwAAOSwHBhhRckt
Has anyone done this before or have any legit reasons why it wouldn't work?
I did a voltage test and was able to power up four external HDD's from a usb hub off my battery no problem, a Sennheiser G3 should draw less voltage though this sort of electrical work isn't my specialty. It seems like each receiver should draw 250mA and the usb port can supply 2.1A so it should be well under.
It's also quite a lot cheaper then the Sennheiser kits available and is easily pre-wired for USB.
Thanks in advance
So let me explain what I am struggling with. I have an electrolizer system composed of 2 electrolizers, 3 gas pumps, 2 liquid pumps and 2 hydrogen generators. These 2 generators are capable of taking the hydrogen produced by the 2 electrolyzers and power the whole system, while the excess energy is storage in a smart battery. The battery eventually gets full. At this point I wanted to send the excess energy produced by this system to another small system, made of a desalinator and another battery (the water that fuels the system is salt water from a geyser). However, when I connect everything the wires overload, as the system is taking 1900 wattage. How can I make it so the excess energy produced at system 1 can be sent to system 2? Is there a way to separate both systems?
I mean... those chips are SOOO tiny! On a breadboard, for example, you need voltage dividers... or opto-isolators... or other things I don't know about. Ends up being a large device. I've scoured electronics forums, battery forums, engineering forums, and no seems to have an idea/circuit that even competes with those tiny, cheap chips. How are they doing it?
Thanks!
SOLD - thanks for the entertainment in the comments
There comes a time in a man's life when he decides he's found the woman of his dreams and gets married. She loves him dearly, so much so that when he rides his motorcycle, she wishes him a good time - but on the inside, she worries the entire time he's out. He always comes home safely, but the thought of something happening is just a lot for her.
Later in their relationship, the man and his loving wife have a beautiful baby girl. She's playful and bouncy and a wonderful thing to have in his life. He thinks about riding his motorcycle now and then, but he soon realizes that it's probably best to trade his joy riding the bike for joy in a safe car with a car seat and stroller and whathaveyou.
So, here goes... for sale - a low mileage Kawasaki Ninja 300. Getting it out of the way - the prior owner had a low-speed accident on the right side of the bike. Mechanically the bike is A+, but the exhaust and one of the fairings are a little banged up. You, future owner, can fix all of this but - it's a cheap bike, and it's black, and you wouldn't notice if you weren't staring at it.
The bike has a brand new battery and starts on the first push of the starter. I'll make sure the engine is cold if you want to take a look. Oil changes have been done regularly. The bike has a new chain which I just lovingly cleaned and waxed for your riding comfort. A USB charger/battery charging access port is available under the passenger seat along with a little tool kit. A fender eliminator was installed to get rid of the ugly fender.
All in all - it's a great bike and if taken care of - will give you lots of smiles as you buzz around town. Comes with a free tank of gas! Wow!
Thanks for taking a look! Come visit in Sherman Oaks - Sepulveda and Ventura area.
Tyler - 310-357-3655
So I'm building an 18650 batter pack that's going to be built into a speaker I've designed. But As standard, this speaker can only be powered from an external power supply (currently using 24V to get the most power out of the amp, but it can take anything from 9-26V in)
So I'm looking for some help with designing a correct circuit diagram for a 6S battery pack with 18650s. Bear in mind this will be built into the multiple compartments in the speaker.
The plan at the moment is to have 2 parallel sets of 6 (Series) 18650s. If anyone can help with the circuit diagram, or suggestions for a BMS would be greatly appreciated
Thanks!
Edit: corrected amp voltage inputs as I didn't clarify properly before
Good day all, Out at the camp I use various technologies to provide energy. Some but not limited to home built hydro for up the stream, Wind and solar power, I already have a charge controller circuit so that is not the problem.
I need to run some of my timers lights etc and basic controller circuits. Some of the stuff home built others things you get at Walmart. Anyhow But the charge has to power some place. And for obvious reasons I don't want to connect any of this to any "live" energy powering sources as that can very from max to little in a matter of no time. (If the sun goes down or the wind drops etc....) So obviously I figured I'd run a separate power ( battery) bank that runs this equipment. for those "off" times as well.
But with time this power bank would run out and I don't want it connected to the charging source or controller live. So this keeps running until the battery dies. Unless I manually switch run and charge banks as needed with observations.
Now to stop the run battery bank from going bad as in my setup it is not charging live. The system is charging up a charge battery bank. Isolated. Meanwhile. And with time with build up a full charge ready to be used.
But with time and to keep this system mostly automated and my batteries healthy without constant super vision. I'd like to build an additional controller circuit. As most simple as I can get. That would allow me to "program" time internals like lets say anywhere from a few minutes to a few days where this circuit would flip flop in real time the charge bank with the run bank without the main DC output from this controller going out for a few seconds. Kind of like half of how a UPS kicks in with relays when it detects power goes out But a little more complex then this for my needs a believe.
I'm not sure what the optimal value would be with my setup that would be the sweet spot for my 2 battery banks so that's why it would be a good idea that it is simple enough to make that timer value variable so I can experiment until I get the best result and just leave it alone after. Any ideas?
Thanks!
First, apologies as I think this is a pretty basic question. I'm brand new to auto stuff.
I want to install a second battery with isolator I can use as a house battery. It seems so convenient and nice insurance against running flat and being stranded.
My questions is: Will there be a separate circuit, and how do I tap into it? For example:
- Once the second battery is installed, what would be powering my stereo and in-cab 12V plugs? The original battery still?
- What's involved in getting the rear 12V plugs running of the rear truck bed plug running off 12V? Presumably running a wire from the rear truck bed underneath/inside through to connect to.... where?
Wondering so I can give the guys at the RV or audio shop a little guidance and so I know what to expect.
I have a 2009 F150.
Thanks.
https://imgur.com/a/eBjqvUK
Should I be connecting it to the circuit preceding the batteries like in the image, or does it make no difference, and I can connect it on the Red circle?
And yes, I know it's missing liquid and atmo sensors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1V9Eq1uiz-o
I once was told, that a button cell that gets short circuited would not explode and would not make fire and even if it was possible, than (at least here in the european union) there are laws that make sure that such batteries must have safety measures when they get short curcuited so they dont explode and dont make fire. (Maybe I misunderstood something)
However, I still dont get why exactly in this video, the button cell explodes and makes fire.
Has it something to do with this purple cable? Or with the 9V Battery? Or both?
Can someone explain this?
Failover generator and battery system. created by Talkie Toaster
https://www.rustrician.io/?circuit=6111229ee61310c594e0e8d81679047b
Alternative question: what chargers/batteries do have these build in? (Preferrably 4-6s)
I know people can give motherboards an alcohol bath without worrying about short circuits since they're not connected to power, but what about ESD?
Can you still cause damage to circuitry through static even if it's not connected to a battery?
Are PC's that are not connected to any power source safe from ESD and short circuits?
I've asked in a couple other subs about my plan to mod an led candle by replacing the disposable battery system with a rechargeable one, and installing a USB port on the side for convenience, so that I wont have to take the build apart every time it dies. The response was that I need a charging circuit. I plan to make a custom holder for the battery, so would the circuit be part of the holder or a separate mechanism? Also, is there a way to make these circuits (I want it to be "my build" as much as feasibly possible) or must they be bought? And, most importantly, how exactly is it supposed to be set up?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1V9Eq1uiz-o
I once was told, that a button cell that gets short circuited would not explode and would not make fire and even if it was possible, than (at least here in the european union) there are laws that make sure that such batteries must have safety measures when they get short curcuited so they dont explode and dont make fire. (Maybe I misunderstood something)
However, I still dont get why exactly in this video, the button cell explodes and makes fire.
Has it something to do with this purple cable? Or with the 9V Battery? Or both?
Can someone explain this?
