Bicycle commute, every day, punctures happen, been running tubeless for 4 years now? Occasionally get punctures but after a few rides tires start holding air again. Two weeks ago my back tire just turned into a puncture magnet, pulled out a thorn, a piece of wire, a small piece of rusty metal, some glass shards (couldn't see any, just saw bubbling, felt with fingertip, and pulled with tweezers). All of the puntures are small, (8 currently) and the tire will hold air overnight still (goes from 45PSI at 8AM to 20PSI next AM), Assumed tire was out of sealant so put in 1.5oz fresh stans sealant on Saturday, went for a nice 1.5hr ride to get it sloshed around well, but tire still not holding air. Front tire had a puncture and sealed up fine I think. Tips or tricks to make sealant "kick"? Take it off and clean out the old sealant and start fresh? They're too small to stick a plug in without being pretty aggresive. Can too many little punctures overwhelm sealant if no one leak is fast enough to push liquid out?
Hello gravel rebels, I'm new to tubeless and just set up my Gravel King SemiSlick+ tires (both 38c x 700 / 40-622).
Which tubeless pressure (front / rear) should I use for the following ride patterns (see pictures for surface range):
- 80-90 percent tarmac roads / asphalt bike lanes - mostly smooth German tarmac, sometimes with smaller potholes or tree roots
- 10-20 percent easy, "unbumpy" gravel which you could passably ride with a road bike, so no singletrails or sand etc.
- occasionally (by mistake) a short muddy, bumpy dirt road or forest trail
- 99% dry weather, I never start when it's raining, so I almost never need to plough through thick mud etc.
- very flat East German terrain, no climbs, also I'm a slow rider, my avg on flat tarmac is 22-23 km/h (13-14 mph)
- weight: 12kg (26 lbs) bike + 65kg (143lbs) rider == 77 kg (170 lbs) total
Also, are there different pressure recommendations for different temperatures? Or do you ride the same pressure when it's 30°C (85F) summer heat and when it's -5°C (20F) dry, but freezing cold? (I never ride in snow or rain in the winter, also never when it's black ice weather)
Thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/9ylt8782j1981.jpg?width=2720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a3c04bf4aabe2b78fd5e93cabbca2471f02bc403
I noticed couple of hours ago my tire sealant was all over my living room floor.
The sealant was leaking through an unseated bead on the rear tire - worth mentioning: Bicycle is stored on a vertical stand, so all its weight was on the rear tire.
Question is: what could have caused the bead to unseat? Two months ago I had a puncture, so I replaced tire, replaced rim tape, put new sealant. No problems since.
Addition question: Could the weight of the bike unseat the bead, if the tire was fully deflated? I ask this because I did not inflate the rear tire in two weeks.
TIA
Find myself changing lots of tubeless setups be it for myself, S.O., or friends and I’m growing tired of fidgeting with a floor pump to seat new tires. Any suggestions for suitable compressor that isn’t overkill?
Hi, I have schwalbe rocket ron tires and at first I used stans race sealant. That combo worked very well. Then I had to switch to a different set of tires for one day, and didn't have the stans race anymore so when I put schwalbes back on I used mucoff sealant. Then I was riding pretty often on the roads so I pumped the wheels even up to 4b. Now I cannot achieve perfect seal - mucoff keeps air for 2 days. I now put milkit into front wheel - its better but after a week the air is gone. The leakage is on the side walls of the tires.
So my first question is: is it possible I damaged the tires when inflating them to those 4bars ?
And second question is what can I do with this setup to seal it better? I'd want to wear down the tires instead straight replace, and I also dont want to use tubes.
I can't find Schwalbe One pro's or GP5000 S's atm, which would be my natural choices - looks like I will probably/perhaps be able to get those sometime around end of January.
But I do have some Pirelli P zero race, Goodyear eagle F1 supersport, and Specialized rapidair. Between those three, what is the considered opinion for the best for 'fast (priority) plus durable (important but slightly secondary)'?
note: 25/26mm if it matters - frame will start rubbing on anything that measures about 28mm or bigger.
Hi fellow bikers!
I decided to go tubeless on my gravel bike and set up my GravelKing SemiSlick Plus 38cc tires (on 29" rims), which was quite a hassle. Afterwards, I rode the bike for two small tours (about 20-30 km / 15-20 miles each).
The rear tire is okay now, but the front tire still leaks almost 2 bar / 30 PSI overnight. I pumped it up again to 35 PSI this morning, and after only 4 hours it is down to 15 PSI again. The air comes out so slowly that I cannot see or hear where it leaks. Also, no white sealant comes out of the beads, so the leak must be really tiny and almost invisible.
Is this normal and does it just take some rides to completely seal or should I take off the tire and re-do the whole process with new rim taping etc.?
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edit: I just pumped it up almost to the max recommended pressure of 4 bar / 60 psi - and now I can hear it hissing on multiple places:
- the valve: About where the lock nut is that holds the valve in place the air comes out, I can even feel the air slowly coming out when holding a wet finger close to it
- 2-3 other places on the tire: I can hear it hissing, but air is not leaking "forcefully" enough so I cannot feel it or exactly pinpoint the place where the air leaks
Hey! Im trying my first ever tire change on a motorcycle. Ive got a tubless tire(Shinko 705) that im using with a tube on for the Klr. Ive started working on the rear tire change.
My problem is that I keep pinching the tube near the inside towards the rim. I pinched it three times and then I got frustrated and took it to a mechanic and they changed the tube and a day later it was flat. I took it out and changed it to a new tube yet again myself and it punched again. The punctures are two straight horizontal lines near the inside seam of the tube, but the punctures are never in the same place.
So far ive had 5 different pinches and im not sure what im doing wrong. Im hoping for any suggestions. Thanks!
After multiple flats in the last weeks I've decided to jump on the tubeless bandwagon and got all the necessary items.
I used my tires (both relatively new < 100 km: front Panaracer GK SemiSlick 35cc / rear Panaracer GK SemiSlick + 38cc) and got them installed with a reservoir pump - it made the "plop" sound and the tires are firmly in place in the rim hooks.
But as soon as I want to test-pump the tires before inserting the sealant, they lose air quite rapidly. If I pump them to 3 bar (40 psi), they go down to 0 in about 1-2 minutes.
What could be the problem?
The rims are tubeless ready as stated by the manufacturer and I used Tubeless rim tape by DT Swiss with overlapping over the valve hole. The tires are relatively new and both tubeless compatible.
I just sprayed the tire on both sides with soapwater to see where the air leaks - it leaks everywhere! (see pictures)
https://preview.redd.it/g6ipfqpk5k881.jpg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be138af5b0210696f2cdc3676fc5d0c92fae87db
https://preview.redd.it/npcbb9qk5k881.jpg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b05d7737cfe419a108e7d5f0295daaa21274bc75
I’m a total MTB noob and bought an old 26" hardtail which I feel is decent to start out. Everything is in working order, but I will need to change the cheap, worn tires pretty soon.
I know next to nothing about MTB tires, what tire combo would choose given these parameters?
26x2.5 Tubeless Preferably light but heavy isn’t a deal breaker
Terrain : not very technical, mix of forest trails and fire roads, for now I think I’ll avoid excessive mud.
Thanks!
I've been running tubeless on my Canyon CF SL 8.0 with Zipp 303 NSW wheels for around 3 years. I recently had to replace the rear tire, and as availability is still limited, I ended up buying a Goodyear Eagle F1 tubeless. Fitting it and getting it to seal was easier than any previous tires I've used. I added 45 ml of Muc-Off "No puncture hassle" sealant. Even after 40 miles of riding the tire still silly slowly loses pressure. There are no obvious signs of any sealant leakage from the tire beads, or the valve. Any suggestions?
On my fat tire bike I have tubeless tires. The back tire exclusively goes flat to the point that I have worry if it will lose all it's air every ride. Is this normal? My local bike shop owner says that is just how it goes but I have a hard time believing this because I have no issue with my front tire.
Giant tubeless 700x38c, Liv bike. Haven’t ridden in a couple months and would like to maintain them while not in use. Pumped them a few days ago and now they are flat again.
Honestly I'm struggling to set the tyres into the rims because I can't get the volume of air into the tyre fast enough.
Has anyone got any tips how to sort this out and get riding again?
Edit Thank you all! Didn't know you were all so willing to help!!
I've just converted my tires to tubeless and am wondering how firm the tire should feel when pumped up to 35 psi. A friends mtb tires feel rock hard at 27psi whereas mine have a bit of give at 35. I may have damaged the rim tape trying to get the tire on the rim so I'm wondering whether its worth it to redo it? Thanks for the help!
So I finally made the switch to tubeless, and realized that the tires my bike came with are a little overkill for the day to day riding I have planned (but will be well suited for my bikepacking trips). They’re just a little too knobby since I need to ride a lot of pavement before reaching packed dirt.
If I swap tires on and off as needed, should I completely clean the inner tire and remove any dried sealant? Or can I store it with the residue? Most guides I’m watching/reading focus on replacing tires completely and not maintaining different sets of tires depending on the ride.
Thanks.
I run tubeless and never really needed to change my tires until now. I want to put on some winter tires, but like how does that work. Do I have to put in new sealant or can i like somehow pour the old sealant into the new one? That would get really expensive for people who need to change their tires for races and stuff. Sorry of this is a stupid question, I just recently started doing my bike repairs and maintenance myself after letting the shops do most of the stuff for years.
After 10 years of road cycling, I bought my first bike with electronic shifting (ultegra di2), disc brakes and tubeless tires. I try to do most of my maintance myself and started looking up some tips.
Any suggestions from you of what I should pay attention to and how to keep it working smooth?
Looking to build new bike and go tubeless. Planned to get a couple sets of wheels so I can switch out between gravel tires and road specific tires. How does the sealant hold up to sitting for long periods of time?
Thanks so much!
I want a tube for when I get a flat I can't fix with bacon strips (may have such a flat now)
Tonight I took my tubeless off my Mavic cosmics, but it was insanley difficult. I assumed this was because the sealant had done too good a job so once I'd managed to get em off I cleaned everything. I put them back on and repumped, and it was then I realised my new sealant wouldn't pipe through the valve, so tried to break the seal to pour directly into the tire, and it was more bed on than before and tried everything to get them off but they aren't budging. If anyone has any tips for how to remove these tricky tires would be great. I tried using a vice grips, standing on the tire and levering it off, and of course using my fingers.
I'm converting an old 90s Specialized Hardrock into a drop bar gravel bike. I got some rad old Mavic Crossmax wheels which are UST tubeless ready. I know this is different from today's tubeless tires. But do they play nice with modern tubeless tires? Thanks.
I read a few tubeless tire posts on this sub and how hard it was to put them on. So I was able to get all the tubeless setup I wanted, and boy was it challenge. I'm a pretty skinny guy but I can usually put the regular gp5000 tires on without any tools. But for the gp5000tl I had to use the hook side of my tire lever and the strength of Thor to put them on. Now that it's done, is there anything I should look out for on a new pair of tubeless tires?
This joke didn't age well, should have taken it to a bike shop. https://www.reddit.com/r/cycling/comments/pc0xe3/i_love_my_cheap_bike/haflasj/
pics or it didn't happen I had to use an extender for the rear wheel, since muc off don't make a 100mm tubeless valve.
