Hi! I'm 42, she/her, married, a mom to two under 10 and I'm a solitary, secular hearth witch. I've been practicing for a few years now. I'm really diving into the Wheel of the Year this year. I'm studying up a bit on gardening so I can grow some of my own herbs. I also practice Tarot - my favorite deck is Crow Tarot by MJ Cullinane. I love to read and listen to audio books, especially about witchcraft. I don't mind the non-secular books because there's still a lot to be learned in them.
I think dogs are probably as close of a thing to angels as possible. I love alternative music - especially The Killers, Franz Ferdinand, Muse, etc. I don't get to watch as many movies as I'd like. I'm into journaling and art journaling. I also love the planner community and have a fondness for Japanese planners (if you know, you know).
Open to penpals with similar and different paths / life paths.
Currently have a brick fireplace. It’s really lovely, but super inefficient and unless I’m tending it constantly it occasionally gets Smokey indoors.
I want to get a wood stove or an insert but I wonder if I should remove the brick fireplace or just install it inside.
The brick stores the heat well but will it prevent the heat from radiating effectively?
It seems like a full city with a Bank, portals section and even a AH if I remember correctly so why block it off. After clearing it we should be allowed to use it freely.
Live in the Midwest and want to spay paint open ceiling in basement during winter.
Title says it all... when I stop by on a -30 degree day, I am greeted by one of the tenants wearing a tank top and shorts. They keep some windows (3' x 3') wide open to keep 'a breeze' in the house.
So - first of all, WTFuck. They pay the heat so whatever. But my main question is how this is affecting the life of my furnace. I assume it goes beyond normal wear and tear? Or is it happy just running full blast 24/7?
...
Other fun facts: As soon as it is 80 degrees outside, they put in 2 window air conditioners. Heat still set at 85. Windows still open. Gotta keep a breeze, after all.
I’ve had it set at 500 for around 2 hours now, but I just wanna make sure it’s okay if it’s on for the next few hours? I would never do this for days on end or even over night, but is upwards of 8 hours okay?
carbon dioxide/monoxide poisoning.
I just had this thought
edit:
also, for those of you saying chimneys, I should have been more clear in that I was talking about pre 12th-century edit: when chimneys were not used.
I knew houses had holes in the roofs but I was wondering if the updraft would be enough without chimneys, and would they really leave the door open on a really cold night? that was what I thought anyway, but it was a really stupid question in hindsight, medieval people weren't dumb, and if people were dying, they probably wouldn't use it or if they were stupid, natural selection would ensure only those who did not use fires survived, anyway I'm getting off-topic, but thanks for responding.
Anyone know if they changed the command? F5 is not working for me.
The furnace is in the basement and all ducting has been removed. The house is undergoing renovation - new HVAC going in in a few months - and it's only purpose has been to keep the basement from freezing. It's 40F down there now. The furnace triggers an open high temp limit switch according to the blink code. I've replaced the switch, disconnected it, and jumped it and no matter what I do it still throws this error. The furnace is obviously not over temp. The filter is removed, plenty of air is being moved as well.
It did work about a month ago but intermittently threw this error. I simply disconnected power from the furnace for a day and it would work again. But not anymore. I'm thinking the control board has died but maybe someone has some other ideas?
15 year old York GY9S furnace won't fire due to pressure switch staying open. It has two pressure switches. One switch connects to the collector box & is set to close at -.40 inH20. I got -2.20+/- inH20 manometer reading on this switch so it should close. The other switch has two ports & one connects to the inducer motor assembly & the other connects to the burner box. This switch is set to close at -1.50. Manometer reading on the connection to the inducer assembly was -2.19+/- so it should close, but the manometer reading on the connection to the burner box was only -.60 so this one is staying open preventing the furnace from firing. This is a brand new pressure switch btw. I prematurely ordered it as soon as I saw the pressure switch open error. Wasn't until I took readings with a manometer that I realized the switch wasn't the problem. I then ruled out easy stuff like kinks/blockages in the pressure switch tubing & found no issues. Disconnected condensation lines/trap & confirmed they're all clear by flushing with water (I primed the trap before reinstalling). Removed inducer motor assembly & confirmed no blockages in the housing/cage. Furnace has concentric intake/exhaust. With inducer removed, confirmed exhaust venting is clear with camera scope. Removed rubber coupling joining intake pipe inside furnace housing (pic here https://imgur.com/xqlGRNU) to gain access in both directions with camera scope & confirmed no blockages in intake pipe in direction of burner box & in direction of intake from outside. Could not see the intake cap clearly & don't have easy access to the second story to check it up close, so to rule out a blockage there, I ran the furnace with the rubber coupling off so the furnace will pull intake directly from the attic, but it still errored out with the same switch staying open. Manometer reading on the connection to the burner box with the furnace intaking air from the attic was -.32 so even lower than the -.60 when connected to the intake normally from outside.
After eliminating blockages in the switch tubing, condensation line, inducer motor housing, intake/exhaust, I would think the only possible causes could be the inducer motor going bad & just not pulling enough of a draft or there's a crack in the heat exchanger. However, if there's a crack in the heat exchanger, shouldn't I also be getting insufficient manometer readings from the switch connected to the
... keep reading on reddit ➡https://preview.redd.it/swjn2nxz87q71.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8ebb74685728aa5dddd0e8a442d3aaee697b9ea9
What issues could it cause if I leave furnace air filter cover open? Reasons to leave it open:
- No more ductwork popping sound at start and stop of furnace.
- Maybe somewhat better temperature control in basement. There are only supply vents in basement and no returns.
Leaving the return air cover open solves first issue and may also help with second issue. Furnace was recently replaced with 5 inch media filter. Previous homeowner had furnace with only 1 inch filter and the filter housing was open from top side. Apparently they lived with that for many winters. As a new homeowners we also used that old furnace for two winters and at least didn't have issue #1. Now I know the right way to fix this is to properly re-size ductwork and install return in basement farther away from furnace but I don't want to spend money if the workaround is effective. I'm more concerned with chimney backdraft causing carbon monoxide poisoning due to negative pressure. Chimney is right behind furnace and is also connected with hot water boiler. I have a CO detector in furnace room plus there are two CO detectors in basement and the floor above. Those alarms never went off with previous furnace. Does that mean I don't need to be concerned with CO backdraft and can leave filter cover open?
Anyone had error code for overhearing furnace. I have it serviced every year and change filters regularly. I was away for few days and set temp to 10c. When I want to heat the house back to 20c furnace stops at about 14 degrees and fire shuts off, but air still running. Error code shows overheating. Can it be that furnace overhating due to high temp range?
