After desoldering my pcb and ripping out around 11 pads and breaking a trace, I am keen to learn how to properly desolder. I tried using fresh solder to make the desolder clean but my problem is this…
Whenever I desolder with a desolder pump, there is always a certain pet that doesn’t get sucked up. When I try to desolder this without fresh solder, I still can’t suck it up. When is try to desolder after apply fresh solder, it stays there. So I want to know how to properly desolder. What am I doing wrong? I watched many videos on desoldering. When I desolder I do it at around 400C-450C. I also tried 350-375C but that was too low for me. I also hold the desolder at an angle and not straight up, and I am sure to place it right against the pad.
Has anyone faced these same problems and found the solution to the poor desoldering?
Hi everyone!
I'm Halloween and I'm back with my free build service (soldering, desoldering, as well as switch/stabilizer lubing/modding but at a cost). Why free? I really just enjoy building boards and find solace in it so if you don't want to buy soldering materials or what not, you can have me build your board and I'll treat it like my own. If you have any special requests regarding how you want your build to be done, I am just a PM away. You can also reach out if you have a build in mind and I would not mind helping you with planning it (where to source parts, etc.)
I'm based in New York 10018. You can find more details here in this form if you are interested. For now, I am only accepting commissions from the CONUS. Shipping will be paid for both ways by the customer. Everything will be mailed back using original packaging.
Services
Switch Lubing (only with build requests)
- I offer switch/stabilizer lubing for any build requests and pricing depends on whether you will be sending your own lube/films or I use my own in stock (Krytox 205g0 / GPL 105 / Tribosys 3204 / dialectic grease / TX Films / Deskeys Films). Please see below for the price breakdown:
- $0.40/switch (my own lube) - additional $0.10/switch if you want them filmed OR $0.20/switch (your own lube)
-$1.00/stabilizer (my own lube) OR Free (your own lube). I can also mod your stabilizers based on your preference.
Soldering/Desoldering Services (Free for full builds/rebuilds)
- $30 for PCB only requests
- I use a TS80P soldering iron and Kester 60/40 0.031 solder (if you want LEDs for your board, you'll have to provide those or we can discuss for me to acquire them for you)
- For desoldering, I use an Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker and the Hakko FR-301 desoldering gun
Millmax Services
- Millmax pricing: +$50 for 65% and below, +$60 for TKL or 75%, +$70 for 1800
Thank you in advance and
... keep reading on reddit ➡
Hello, do you have any brand of desoldering braid to recommend? I saw some on aliexpress and thought I read that it needed flow in it? I spotted a lot like this for example
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001413413976.html
It says "no clean flux" so it's soaked in flux?
What size do you recommend?
Hi r/mm, Call me Tea. I'm passionate about building custom mechanical keyboards! I have been building a lot of my own/my friend's and families' keyboards. Since quarantine started and I thoroughly enjoy doing with this community, and I'd like to offer my services for custom builds!
Contact Info
- Here on Reddit: u/sleepy2304
- Discord: TriVo#8410
Location:
Philadelphia, PA — 19142
Tools: setup
Weller WLC100 40, Original TS100, TS80P, Pro DesolderingStation ZD-915, Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37, flush cutters, Krytox GPL 205g0...
Turn-around time:
1-3 business days, barring emergencies.
Milmax done: https://imgur.com/grF5aJQ
Services offered: (Prices do not include shipping or return shipping)
- Soldering, Custom keyboard assembly, (Soldering switches to PCB, clipping and lubing stabilizers with Krytox GPL 205g0, add washer for screw if needed, band-aid modding if desired, assembling the case, thorough tuning, and inspection, layout programming if desired) and test carefully before turn back
- LED soldering is the same prices as Soldering switches because led have 2 pins too :) (But I always have a special price for combo jobs)
| Service | Cost |
|---|---|
| Up to 60% | $30 |
| 65% | $35 |
| 75% - TKL | $40 |
| Full-size | $50 |
I can provide Milmax socket with a better price than you buy alone, Each switch need 2 sockets
7305 $0.26 each
0305 $0.11 each
- Desoldering (desoldering and extraction of switches from assembled PCB, cleaning excess solder off of switch pins) Same price as Soldering
- LED, diodes desoldering is the same prices as desoldering switches as Soldering job because led have 2 pins too :) (But I always have a special price for combo jobs)
My Youtube video: Rebuild and Desoldering, Sound test linear, Sound test tactile.
- Lubing: I don't offer a switch lubricating service at this time, as I am not yet adept enough in my skill. Now I have a professional guy who always does lube for me and I can advise you.
If you are interested in booking my services for your upcoming build or have any questions, ple
... keep reading on reddit ➡Hakko FR-301 Desoldering Gun - $200 shippedSOLDHakko FX-888D Soldering Station - $75 shippedSOLD
Both used to desolder/solder one full-size keyboard. Regularly cleaned and tinned iron tips. Free shipping. PayPal invoice only.
DO NOT CHAT, PM ONLY
shipping determined by what you purchase, cheaper in bundle
would consider a trade for analog dreams, otherwise paypal
| WT60-D WEIRDFLEX PCB | pink, very good condition, de-soldered 1x, will throw in foam | $40 |
| plastic case, 60% | nothing fancy, decent condition | $10 |
I am new to soldering and just bought myself a TS-80P USB-C soldering iron with a cheap Amazon sucker and an also an Engineer SS-02 sucker.
I am having difficulty in desoldering the factory soldered switches from a keyboard which I believe uses lead-free solder.
I think I made the initial mistake of not putting the sucker flush on the PCB and only sucking up the surface. I used the cheap Amazon sucker on an angle.
However I am now left with 120 holes with solder stuck in the holes with the pins.
The stock tip on my iron is pointy.
I have turned up the iron and stuck the iron tip into the hole and on some of the holes I can feel the solder melt but I cannot suck it out even using the Engineer sucker flush to the hole.
Also in some holes I cannot even melt the solder.
As I am located Europe I am stuck with lead free solder.
Any tips or advice on desoldering? Should I resolder then desolder? Should I use some flux?
Many thanks.
Hi all, I'm an NYC based keeb builder looking for commissions. I usually help my friends build boards and have been doing this for a few years. You can check out my prices, and request a service here. I offer local pickup/dropoff if you're located within NYC, otherwise I will charge shipping on the invoice or after the weight is known. Feel free to see the current queue of builds and jobs here.
I perform all soldering and desoldering with a Hakko FX-888D, using Kester 63/37 Rosin solder, and perform desoldering with a SS-02 desoldering pump. I'll give the board a clean with some 99% isopropyl alcohol (if it doesn't have a mask) after I'm done soldering or desoldering the boards.
Soldering/Build Prices (not including parts)
| Type of Board | Amount |
|---|---|
| Numpad/Macro Pad | $20 |
| 40-60% | $25 |
| 60-65% | $30 |
| 75%/TKL | $35 |
| 96-Key/Full-Size | $45 |
| Custom/Component Soldering | Variable, rate is $25/hr, pm for a quote |
| +LEDs | $0.30/LED + LED Cost |
| +Flash | +$5 per board |
Turn around time for builds is about 1 week after I get the parts from you; if it's a custom board or a board i have to solder SMD or through-hole the wait time might be 2-3 weeks. If you're planning on using the board with the stock layout then you don't have to pay the optional flash cost, but otherwise i will charge for the flash cost if I think I need to flash the board. I also tune and lube all stabilizers with GPL205G0 with the purchase of a desoldering/resoldering or build service. Desoldering and resoldering a board may take 1-2 weeks at most. If resoldering a board, please let me know if the board I'm resoldering is a factory board and if the switches provided are clipped or not, there is a $0.10 charge for clipping the legs if they are not clipped.
Desoldering Prices:
| Type of Board | Amount | Amount with Resoldering switches |
|---|---|---|
| Numpad/Macro Pad | $20 | $35 |
| 40-60% | $25 | $45 |
| 60-65% | $30 | $55 |
| 75%/TKL | $35 | $65 |
| 96-Key/Full-Size | $45 | $85 |
| +LEDs | $0.30/LED | $0.60/LED |
| if resoldering on Factory Board | N/A | $0.10/Switch (if legs are not clipped) |
Lubing Switches:
I've changed my pricing for lubing again. I think I've found the sweet spot, these take quite a long time for me to do (2 hours per 100 tactile switches/4 hours per 100ish linear switches) and I think I'm pretty consistent with my lubing. All switches I will lube the springs with Hoppe's
... keep reading on reddit ➡So I've been trying a lot of different things, just to see if I can do it/like to do it.
Recently I've been trying making basket settings (which i can do at this point) and attaching them to rings (opening the shank, soldering one of the circles to both sides of the ring) but i keep desoldering my baskets in one way or another.
Best case scenario, one prong changes position and makes the ring assymetric. (Which is not my intention).
I have a small tip propane torch (attached to a big ol' tank) and I'm unable to buy another. I use a third hand to hold the ring, and the basket rests on my vermiculite soldering board. I heat the ring first, making passes over the entire metal, before honing in on the part where the solder has to flow.
Does someone have tips, a good video or something like that? It's not essential for me to use basket settings, but i find them more pleasing when using nice, big faceted stones.
My old Radio Shack stock ran out and I bought something cheap but it doesn't work very well. It won't wick up solder unless I drown the braid in flux first but that is messy. The ones I had from Radio Shack always worked every time with minimal flux added to chips, and I often didn't need flux for simple parts like resistors and capacitors.
So what desoldering braid brand do you use that works very well without having to use them in flux first?
I am located in US-CA and would prefer other CONUS customers, local to San Gabriel.
Please comment before PM.
Switch Lubing
Services offered include switch lubing, spring swapping, clipping pcb mount legs, installing switch films, assembly of frankenswitches, etc. If you are interested in a service that is not on here, please ask. I ask that all parts are supplied by the customer.
I can use any of the lubes that I have on hand, or you can send me your own to use. Lubes that I have on hand are 3204, 3203, vpf1514, GPL 105, and GPL 205g0. Springs will be lubed with vpf1514.
Here are my tools and a diagram of the parts I typically lube. Slider legs and contact leaves are not lubed on tactile switches unless requested.
Base charge is $.50 per switch. Additionally, the customer pays return shipping.
I will also lube stabs for $2 per stab and I will lube them with my own 205g0. Please be aware that some lube can rub off on the bag during return shipping.
If you have any personal preferences on anything, please bring it up in your pm and I will be happy to accommodate.
Soldering, Desoldering, Building
For soldering I use a Hakko FX888D and for desoldering I use a Hakko FR301. Pictures
Prices are based on the size of the board and are the same for soldering and desoldering. The client pays for return shipping. These prices are for switch (de)soldering only and an additional fee will be charged if the client wants switches and LED's, 1n4148s, hotswap sockets, etc. for their build.
| Size | Price |
|---|---|
| 60-65% | $25 |
| 75%-TKL | $30 |
| Larger than TKL | $35 |
PM me about possible SMD soldering.
Repairs
Please message me with as much detail as possible and pictures, and I will decide if it's something I think I can work on. Price for repairs are determined on a case by case basis.
I'm not comfortable with replacing USB ports. If you broke the port off of the PCB, it is almost certainly unfixable and you will need a new PCB. If the port was on a Pro Micro, you can get a new Pro Micro.
Ultrasonic Cleaning
I have an ultrasonic cleaner to clean caps, switches, etc. Price will be determined on a case by case basis depending on how many loads in the cleaner and how long each will take.
FAQ:
> Can I buy switches from a vendor/another user and have them sent straight to you?
Yes, happens all the time.
> Do you sell sta
... keep reading on reddit ➡
I have not hot swap keyboard and i want lube my gateron yellows because they sound like tactitle or even clicky for a bit but i am not sure that lubing with krytox 205g will be enough witchout desoldering. My qiestiin is - is desoldering a pain?
Hello y’all,
I’ve been looking at desoldering on Amazon, and I’m kinda indecisive between a Hakko desoldering Gun or the cheaper, Chinese desoldering guns. Anyways, I know Hakko products are good for the money, but does anybody around here have experience with the budget desoldering guns sold on Amazon? Are they durable, or will they fall apart/stop working in a year or so? Thanks in advance.
Anyone has experience with desoldering switches and especially a pro micro with desoldering hollow needles?
The idea seems pretty simple and effective but not sure what happens in the pro micro case where the legs are so close to each other.
A video showcasing them https://youtu.be/NlkebIBpw80
In the above video the leg is pushed through which would not work in a pro micro but in theory you could still separate the solder between the leg and the PCB.
I was dealing with a mouse PCB whose lead-free soldering was particularly fucking stubborn. Not being wise enough to liberally apply flux and leaded solder, I just cranked up the head and let the tip sit on the PCB and used plies to help apply force to the component I was trying to remove (Omhron mouse switches).
Currently, the PCB won't work / be detected. Did I apply too much heat and kill the board? Did I do a shitty job re-soldering it?
I am working on a PCB and I am trying to desolder some components but the pads are gone and solder is stuck on the other side and in the barrel (btw it's throught hole)
I don't have access to the other side of the board and I need to keep the component so I can't break it.
I was thinking about getting a vacum desoldering station to such the solder through the hole (my engineer ss-02 can't do that)
Any ideas on how to do it
Any help appreciated Thanks
So I'm trying to repair my PS4 controller by replacing the joystick and I'm having bad time doing it. Let's say i have 50 or less hours of soldering experience. I have a very basic soldering iron and I've got all that i need in order to desolder the old joystick (flux, wick, sucking thing). BUT: Solder won't stick to the wick, even using flux. Can't suck the solder, some always remains on the contacts. My solder tip seems to heat unevenly. I already insisted a lot but at this point I'm afraid of damaging the pcb. I was wondering if maybe changing the tips will do it for me, as i think the heat generated by the iron is enough since in some points it is hot enough. What do you think? Should I buy a better soldering iron? Any help is appreciated!
Hi r/mm, Call me Tea. I'm passionate about building custom mechanical keyboards! I have been building a lot of my own/my friend's and families' keyboards. Since quarantine started and I thoroughly enjoy doing with this community, and I'd like to offer my services for custom builds!
Contact Info
- Here on Reddit: u/sleepy2304
- Discord: TriVo#8410
Location:
Philadelphia, PA — 19142
Tools: setup
Weller WLC100 40, Original TS100, TS80P, Pro Desoldering Station Hakko F301 and ZD-915, Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37, flush cutters, Krytox GPL 205g0...
Turn-around time:
1-3 business days, barring emergencies.
Milmax done: https://imgur.com/grF5aJQ
Services offered: (Prices do not include shipping or return shipping)
- Soldering, Custom keyboard assembly, (Soldering switches to PCB, clipping and lubing stabilizers with Krytox GPL 205g0, add washer for screw if needed, band-aid modding if desired, assembling the case, thorough tuning, and inspection, layout programming if desired) and test carefully before turn back
- LED soldering is the same prices as Soldering switches because led have 2 pins too :) (But I always have a special price for combo jobs)
| Service | Cost |
|---|---|
| Up to 60% | $30 |
| 65% | $35 |
| 75% - TKL | $40 |
| Full-size | $50 |
I can provide Milmax socket with a better price than you buy alone, Each switch need 2 sockets
7305 $0.26 each
0305 $0.11 each
- Desoldering (desoldering and extraction of switches from assembled PCB, cleaning excess solder off of switch pins) Same price as Soldering
- LED, diodes desoldering is the same prices as desoldering switches as Soldering job because led have 2 pins too :) (But I always have a special price for combo jobs)
My Youtube video: Rebuild and Desoldering, Sound test linear, Sound test tactile.
- Lubing: I don't offer a switch lubricating service at this time, as I am not yet adept enough in my skill. Now I have a professional guy who always does lube for me and I can advise you.
If you are interested in booking my services for your upcoming build or have an
... keep reading on reddit ➡Hi everyone!
I'm Halloween and I'm offering a free build service (soldering, desoldering, as well as switch/stabilizer lubing/modding but at a cost). Why free? I really just enjoy building boards and find solace in it so if you don't want to buy soldering materials or what not, you can have me build your board and I'll treat it like my own. If you have any special requests regarding how you want your build to be done, I am just a PM away. You can also reach out if you have a build in mind and I would not mind helping you with planning it (where to source parts, etc.)
I'm based in New York 10018. You can find more details here in this form if you are interested. For now, I am only accepting commissions from the CONUS. Shipping will be paid for both ways by the customer. Everything will be mailed back using original packaging.
Services
Switch Lubing (only with build requests)
- I offer switch/stabilizer lubing for any build requests and pricing depends on whether you will be sending your own lube/films or I use my own in stock (Krytox 205g0 / GPL 105 / Tribosys 3204 / dialectic grease / TX Films / Deskeys Films). Please see below for the price breakdown:
- $0.40/switch (my own lube) - additional $0.10/switch if you want them filmed OR $0.20/switch (your own lube)
-$1.00/stabilizer (my own lube) OR Free (your own lube). I can also mod your stabilizers based on your preference.
Soldering/Desoldering Services (Free)
- I use a TS80P soldering iron and Kester 60/40 0.031 solder (if you want LEDs for your board, you'll have to provide those or we can discuss for me to acquire them for you)
- For desoldering, I use an Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker and the Hakko FR-301 desoldering gun
Thank you in advance and hope to be able to work with you!
Hi everyone!
I'm Halloween and I'm back with my free build service (soldering, desoldering, as well as switch/stabilizer lubing/modding but at a cost). Why free? I really just enjoy building boards and find solace in it so if you don't want to buy soldering materials or what not, you can have me build your board and I'll treat it like my own. If you have any special requests regarding how you want your build to be done, I am just a PM away. You can also reach out if you have a build in mind and I would not mind helping you with planning it (where to source parts, etc.)
I'm based in New York 10018. You can find more details here in this form if you are interested. For now, I am only accepting commissions from the CONUS. Shipping will be paid for both ways by the customer. Everything will be mailed back using original packaging.
Services
Switch Lubing (only with build requests)
- I offer switch/stabilizer lubing for any build requests and pricing depends on whether you will be sending your own lube/films or I use my own in stock (Krytox 205g0 / GPL 105 / Tribosys 3204 / dialectic grease / TX Films / Deskeys Films). Please see below for the price breakdown:
- $0.40/switch (my own lube) - additional $0.10/switch if you want them filmed OR $0.20/switch (your own lube)
-$1.00/stabilizer (my own lube) OR Free (your own lube). I can also mod your stabilizers based on your preference.
Soldering/Desoldering Services (Free for full builds/rebuilds)
- $30 for PCB desoldering only requests
- I use a TS80P soldering iron and Kester 60/40 0.031 solder (if you want LEDs for your board, you'll have to provide those or we can discuss for me to acquire them for you)
- For desoldering, I use an Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker and the Hakko FR-301 desoldering gun
Millmax Services
- Millmax pricing: +$50 for 65% and below, +$60 for TKL or 75%, +$70 for 1800
Thank you in advance and hope to be able to work with you!
Hi r/mm, Call me Tea. I'm passionate about building custom mechanical keyboards! I have been building a lot of my own/my friend's and families' keyboards. Since quarantine started and I thoroughly enjoy doing with this community, and I'd like to offer my services for custom builds!
Contact Info
- Here on Reddit: u/sleepy2304
- Discord: TriVo#8410
Location:
Philadelphia, PA — 19142
Tools: setup
Weller WLC100 40, Original TS100, TS80P, Pro DesolderingStation ZD-915, Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37, flush cutters, Krytox GPL 205g0...
Turn-around time:
1-3 business days, barring emergencies.
Milmax done: https://imgur.com/grF5aJQ
Services offered: (Prices do not include shipping or return shipping)
- Soldering, Custom keyboard assembly, (Soldering switches to PCB, clipping and lubing stabilizers with Krytox GPL 205g0, add washer for screw if needed, band-aid modding if desired, assembling the case, thorough tuning, and inspection, layout programming if desired) and test carefully before turn back
- LED soldering is the same prices as Soldering switches because led have 2 pins too :) (But I always have a special price for combo jobs)
| Service | Cost |
|---|---|
| Up to 60% | $30 |
| 65% | $35 |
| 75% - TKL | $40 |
| Full-size | $50 |
I can provide Milmax socket with a better price than you buy alone, Each switch need 2 sockets
7305 $0.26 each
0305 $0.11 each
- Desoldering (desoldering and extraction of switches from assembled PCB, cleaning excess solder off of switch pins) Same price as Soldering
- LED, diodes desoldering is the same prices as desoldering switches as Soldering job because led have 2 pins too :) (But I always have a special price for combo jobs)
My Youtube video: Rebuild and Desoldering, Sound test linear, Sound test tactile.
- Lubing: I don't offer a switch lubricating service at this time, as I am not yet adept enough in my skill. Now I have a professional guy who always does lube for me and I can advise you.
If you are interested in booking my services for your upcoming build or have any questions, ple
... keep reading on reddit ➡Hi r/mm, Call me Tea. I'm passionate about building custom mechanical keyboards! I have been building a lot of my own/my friend's and families' keyboards. Since quarantine started and I thoroughly enjoy doing with this community, and I'd like to offer my services for custom builds!
Contact Info
- Here on Reddit: u/sleepy2304
- Discord: TyKute#8410
Location:
Philadelphia, PA — 19142
Tools: setup
Weller WLC100 40, Original TS100, TS80P, Pro DesolderingStation ZD-915, Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37, flush cutters, Krytox GPL 205g0...
Turn-around time:
1-3 business days, barring emergencies.
Milmax done: https://imgur.com/grF5aJQ
Services offered: (Prices do not include shipping or return shipping)
- Soldering, Custom keyboard assembly, (Soldering switches to PCB, clipping and lubing stabilizers with Krytox GPL 205g0, add washer for screw if needed, band-aid modding if desired, assembling the case, thorough tuning, and inspection, layout programming if desired) and test carefully before turn back
- LED soldering is the same prices as Soldering switches because led have 2 pins too :) (But I always have a special price for combo jobs)
| Service | Cost |
|---|---|
| Up to 60% | $30 |
| 65% | $35 |
| 75% - TKL | $40 |
| Full-size | $50 |
I can provide Milmax socket with a better price than you buy alone, Each switch need 2 sockets
7305 $0.26 each
0305 $0.11 each
- Desoldering (desoldering and extraction of switches from assembled PCB, cleaning excess solder off of switch pins) Same price as Soldering
- LED, diodes desoldering is the same prices as desoldering switches as Soldering job because led have 2 pins too :) (But I always have a special price for combo jobs)
My Youtube video: Rebuild and Desoldering, Sound test linear, Sound test tactile.
- Lubing: I don't offer a switch lubricating service at this time, as I am not yet adept enough in my skill. Now I have a professional guy who always does lube for me and I can advise you.
If you are interested in booking my services for your upcoming build or have any questions, pl
... keep reading on reddit ➡
