Hello,
I’m very new to circuit design and I’m trying to copy a circuit on a pcb that I have into a circuit diagram so I can better understand it.
Doing this has been extremely hard. I’ve just been trying to copy over the exact trace layout onto a piece of paper but i’m unable to mark the components and it’s extremely messy. Should I suck it up and just try harder or is there an easier way to do this?
Thanks
For school I have to do a project which I need a circuit diagram of a motherboard for. My motherboard is an MSI Tomahawk B450 Max, but any motherboard circuit diagram will do if you have one. Thanks!
I am trying to make a magic system which relies on magic circles, magic language, grimoires, geometry, etc... for a game. So I want to be a bit puzzle-like, easily understandable yet quite versatile.
My idea was to make them like Electronic Circuits, with a magic source representing a battery or an AC source, some parafernalia in the middle that transforms magic energy into other types of energy(maybe elemental magics since I want my system to be elemental) then ground it.
Since Electronic Circuits don't need to have straight lines to be understood and already have lots of different glyphs, I think magic circles and a magic language would apply quite well. For example, if there was a "magic capacitor", instead of those two lines, one could write "capacitor" in that line with the magic language. This idea also means grimoires, enchanting, magitech and magic tattoos could exist. Because of the Electronic analogy, One could even have magic transistors and make a magic computer, or at least give more complex commands to the magic.
Since the magic is elemental, there won't be things like scrying, mind-reading, superstrenght, etc... just fire, water, earth, wood and wind magic. My inspiration is ATLA's bending system, without the kung fu part and with plant magic inserted (in my system, plant magic and fire magic are the same processes, but time-reversed. Plant magic uses the other three elements and energy to build itself in a anabolic way, fire does the reverse and produce ash, vapor and gas in a catabolic way. If there was a thing as flesh magic, it would be a subset of plant magic and any sort of exothermic decomposition process is on the realm of fire magic. Of course, living creatures, including real plants, do both).
Yet that's where my creativity stops. I've tried looking at examples of magic circuits on the internet, and haven't found much. I know a thing or two about electronics and I believe I could write things such as a magic rectifier or magic three-phase AC. However, I wish to make something rather easy to explain to people without previous knowledge of electronics. I want these things to be as intuitive as "battery stores energy" or "transistors are like the light switch of my room, but using electricity instead of fingers" so one could easily create magic circles of their own using my system after learning the rules of it in a short time.
I'm looking at "https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/implementing-multiplexers-with-pass-transistor-logic" with title "Implementing Multiplexers with Pass-Transistor Logic" by Robert Keim. Under label "The Transmission Gate Multiplexer" I see the circuit diagram I'm adding in the comments. Is it unreasonable to assume a five volt value for logic one and a zero volt value for logic zero? At any rate those values seem like a common choice.
So if {S} has a value of five volts, and {B} also has a value of five volts, then we want to have a value of five volts at {Y}, regardless of what voltage {A} has. And indeed the PMOS transistor by {B} will have a voltage of five volts at its drain, a logical one. But as I understand it, the NMOS transistor by {B} will have a voltage at its drain of a weak logical one, something like 3.5 volts. Won't that result in a short circuit, since the drains of those two transistors are connected to each other?
Similarly, if {S} again has a value of five volts, and {B} has a value of zero volts, then we want to have a value of zero volts at {Y}. And again, the NMOS transistor by {B} will indeed have a voltage of zero volts at its drain, a logical zero. But again (correct me if I'm wrong), the PMOS transistor by {B} will have a voltage at its drain of a weak logical zero, something like 1.5 volts, won't it? Won't that also result in a short circuit, since once again the drains of those two transistors are connected to each other?
I could ask the same questions of the two transistors by {A} should the value at {S} be a logical zero. It seems like this circuit has problems. Am I off base, or do I have a point?
Hey everyone
So Im currently modifying a vintage Yamaha keyboard. I discovered that by connecting 2 points on the circuitboard, I can trigger a persistent click, kind of like a metronome, while the drum machine is on.
I wired this to a simple toggle switch to turn it on and off. Flipping it up and down rapidly works as a sort of “drum fill” function, but its not an ideal solution. The force of flipping the switch on and off is causing wear and tear. So what id like to do is wire a momentary push button in to use instead.
So id still like the toggle switch to turn the clicks on and off. But id also like to have a momentary button that, when held, cues the clicks while the toggle is off, and then mute the clicks while the toggle is on. So as far as I can tell, I need a 3 pin, SPDT momentary push button, as well as a standard ON/ON toggle switch. Heres the diagram I came up with. Ignore the “40k pot” on the right.
Can anyone tell me if this looks functional? I think itll work but im not sure. Im also a bit worried I misunderstood how the SPDT momentrary button works, as ive only used the standard 2 pin “push to make” types in the past.
These are the ones I ordered for this purpose. Am I correct that holding the button will change the connection from NO -> COM to NC -> COM?
Anyway, sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance for any replies. Also my apologies for the terrible drawing lol, i did it on my phone
Hi folks, I was wondering the best way in which to go about the above. I've built kits with a PCB etc but I'm slowly starting to draw up some of my own ideas that I've started breadboarding. I want to be able to put them on veroboard to make some prototypes to hand out to friends etc. and wanted some advice on doing so. Thanks in advance.
I've recently switched employers. the old employer used more IEC standards and that's what I'm used to.
I'm trying to understand the new way of doing things and I'd like to know if there's any standards in north america for how to design a control panel, and how to draw the circuit diagrams.
for example, I'm used to the layout of the cabinet following an ISO standard where each side of a panel has a designation, for example the back plane is called B, so the name o rails on the back plane would start with B, let's say the rail at the top is B1, the one under it will be B2 etc. and devices installed on those rails would be given a numerical designation increasing left to right, let's say B1.100, B1.101 etc. Something located on a door would be let's say D3.11 which would tell you it's on rail D3 on the door panel and it's located before D3.12 but after D3.10
is there any standard for how to name devices for north american built panels?
and for circuit diagrams, these new circuit diagrams look a lot like ladder code. I've seen different ways of drawing things but never actual drawings that show the circuit the same way ladder code would be shown in the PLc program.
if anyone can link me any typical north american PLC circuit diagram drawings I'd appreciate it.
Like translating Danish to Mandarin without knowing either and not having an auto translator
https://imgur.com/a/1oBQPl6
My circuit breaker box has this wiring diagram. Am I correct in saying that, say, circuits 5, 6, 13, and 14 are on the same circuit, and that a powerline adapter would work between those?
https://preview.redd.it/mr54j7yuwxy71.png?width=1024&format=png&auto=webp&s=863228d9a3ee3b62bfbe154194733b2e47d08995
Hello everyone! Been at the CB hobby for about 2 years now and learned quite a bit in the process. I still find things that stump me though, like this one:
Install details: Bearcat 880 installed on the headliner in my crown vic, drilled a hole in the trunk and mounted a President 36" antenna with a spring. Antenna cable runs through the headliner, down the P/S Sail Panel and into the trunk, excess is bundled properly and penetrates the trunk lid to the antenna mount.
Problem: This setup worked great and the President antenna helped clean up my system to a damn near perfect SWR on 1 and 40, etc. Worked great for 2 months, then my wife said she couldn't hear me when she was behind me at a light and saw me keying up. I used the Bearcat diagnostic mode and confirmed my RX was perfect, Talkback was working with the Mic, so that was good, but TX test was a fail, and it wouldn't give me an SWR reading as a result. Spoke to a friend and he speculated that maybe it had something to do with my excess antenna cable wrapping. (CB World showed one method, but Right Channel Radios showed another.)
So that brings me to where I am now. Additional testing revealed that the antenna was fine, cable was fine, and all signs pointed to the radio. I borrowed my friend's Bearcat (Identical unit) and the TX showed on the graph (my radio did not) but the diagnostic still showed "fail". Out of curiosity, I re-wrapped the antenna cable, and suddenly it passed diagnostics... I set up my old radio on a test rig, same TX failure, wouldn't even show on the graph.
Where I'm at now: I'm thinking the transmitter is shot on the original radio (Through process of elimination). Looking to see if I can get an eye on it BUT, I have no idea what I'm physically looking for. Does anyone have access to a diagram for wiring/ board/ components on the 880? It was purchased a year ago, so I'm thinking it's the current revision of the model.
I'm also super open to hear any advice, etc. on the install and so on. I'm here to learn!
EDIT: This unit is just out of warranty, hence I didn't hesitate to open it up. I'm experienced with working inside electronics, and I can identify most components, just still getting to know radios!
https://preview.redd.it/atfxq3lvvop71.jpg?width=488&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d84d7db650f957949047451668b5861fdef734e2
