Bat detector Puns

https://www.instructables.com/Simple-Frequency-Division-Bat-Detector-Ultrasound-/

The Haynes bat detector kit is a cheap (£20) hetrodyne frequency decreaser (lowers the pitch but not playback speed) . The solderless Haynes kit: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Haynes-HBD2766-Detector-Construction-Black/dp/B07PWQZPC3

It appears to be an original Franzis bat detector kit, with some modifications. The Franzis version requires some soldering to connecting up the knobs, speaker, and microphone as well as some components (a chip and capacitors). The original Franzis soldered kit: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Franzis-Make-your-Detector-Manual/dp/3645652760

Haynes I think have bought the design, and put all the components on the circuit board, added connector plugs, and produced a "solderless kit" that just plugs together. That can be done in about 15 minutes, going slowly!

It's useable and much cheaper than other bat detectors on the market, but its case is the cardboard box the components and instruction manual came in. This makes it extraordinarily cumbersome.

As I've got a 3D printer it was naturally a perfect product to design a case for!

I've designed a 3D printed box that folds up the bits into a much smaller "pocket sized" footprint, and counter-sinks the mic, to prevent damage.

I've removed the loud speaker for size reasons, and added a headphone socket. You can get the 3.5mm TRS female stereo panel mount solder connector here:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MTNOEOT/

Sadly I've not found a way of connecting the headphone wire up to the connector without adding a dab of solder. If you know of a way, please let me know!

The 9v supply and volume control should be ok to prevent your little headphones from burning out from the speaker power, although this model of the kit I found to be rather quiet from the speaker, so headphones should be ok powered by the same circuit. If you're worried, only use CHEAP headphones, or add your own inline resistor.

The 3D print designs so far (yes the case is so small the frequency chart doesn't all fit on. SIZE FIRST!). It has internal supports for the battery, ultrasonic mic, and headphone jack that you can't see from these pictures. They keep everything firm and stable:

The case:

https://imgur.com/gallery/uNNV2zd

Production so far:

I plan

Hi! I recently purchased a bat detector to hear my little ratties squeek when I tickle them... SO WORTH THE 30 BUCKS!! I have so much fun hearing them, and now I know my bigger one does not like me as much as I hoped, lol!
I purchased [this one] (http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/franzis-bat-detector-electronic-kit-n38dp), pre-built, from e-bay. Anyways, I just thought I'd point this out since I'm having so much fun with it.

I just moved into an apartment with a hard wired smoke detector. I've always had a battery-operated detector so I didn't know what to do when it went off and pressing the reset button wouldn't work. Not to mention I have 14 ft vaulted ceilings, so I couldn't remove it. Now it's broken and half of it is hanging from the ceiling with a wire exposed. Will it be ok until I contact the landlord to fix it? I don't have a ladder so I can't reach it or remove it. Just want to make sure the exposed wire won't catch fire or something. Here is a picture. Thank you for any advice.

Hi /r/batty!

I'm a grad student starting up an acoustic monitoring project and looking for some advice on bat detectors. I'm new to the world of acoustic monitoring and my PI is as well, so I was hoping I could find a forum (or subreddit!) to discuss pros/cons of different models. (Attempting to hide beyond anonymity to avoid judgement of my ignorance...)

Any techs/other grad students/researchers here who could give me a point in the right direction? Either to a forum, or we could have a discussion here! Right now I need help figuring out ZC vs. FS, autoID software, and AnaBat vs. Wildlife Acoustics...etc...

Thanks!

So there are these things called bat detectors, which you might guess, allow one to hear bats (whose vocalizations are outside the range of our hearing). But apparently, they also work to help us hear our rats! :) Does anyone know where to buy these in Canada?

So I've been using resting bats over/on an Iron pressure plate to detect the player. Works well enough, but the problem is it takes awhile for the bat to calm back down during which it'll trigger the plate repeatedly.

I've been using a clock to keep the door from opening repeatedly but that leaves my door open for a long while in the meantime. Any suggestions for improving the circuitry?

What do you guys think? Is it accurate and does it lag a long time? Are there any other small bat detectors that I would be able to take through airport security and also work well? (I want to take it to Costa Rica as well as using it at home)

I bought one of these, and have made it successfully! (Onemistake I made - the frequency knob pins I connected up are the centre and right, so it goes from high to low frequency..... oops. May resolder that.)

It uses a CD2003 AM/FM chip to -I think- combine the 555, and the input frequency from the mic. Nice!

Here's a page about it:
http://www.elektronik-labor.de/Notizen/0212Ultraschall.html

Pin 3 from the 555 chip..... I got my oscilloscope on it, and saw a square wave, but unfortunately it's got a large DC offset! The square wave it generates looks about 10 times smaller then the offset... I forget how much that is.... 7 volt offset, and 1 volt square wave? I should have made notes. At the time I was just taking note of the frequencies produced.
Here's the frequency chart I made.

The circuit diagram here shows the full layout of the kit bat detector:
http://www.elektronik-labor.de/Notizen/0212Fledermaus5.jpg

My two aims are:
1: Run it from 3 volts for headphone use, rather than 9v for the speaker (I think that's why they use 9v?).
2: Add a frequency display.

I could (surprisingly given my circuit skills!) easily add an ESP8266/ESP32/Arduino frequency counter and little OLED display... I've made several OLED little projects for that platform. Also, because I'm lazy I looked for and found several frequency counters using accurate interrupts on the MPU's.

"But all that is overkill! MHz MPU for a little KHz counter!? There must be a million 1 second interval KHz frequency counter/display modules online" I thought.

I really need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/80-300V-10-199-9HZ-Frequency-Cymometer-Backlight/dp/B016ZCT5BQ

That one runs from 80v AC to 300v, I need a 9v DC one. So far I'm still looking. =(
Also....the Arduino is 5V, and the ESP is 3V....... and so are their inputs........

So my questions are:
1: Can I convert this circuit to 3V? The 5V regulator means the 555 part is going to need a lot of editing won't it?
Am I best just leaving it at 9v?

2: That 555 pin 3, can I connect its output to a counter input pin without screwing up it's original connection?
I think the output is used in an analogue way, so any noise on the line will screw that up.

3: How would I "skim" the sq

I was wondering if a smartphone microphone is enough for analysing the ultrasounds bats make. Wiki link to bat detector

Are there any Apps out there already?

On its own a little bat isn't much of a weapon for an individual to cause serious trouble. However if anybody tries anything they've got a plane full of people with bats to deal with.

DIY Finished Basement

Sorry for the 3 parts, but there were a lot of pictures, skip to the end of part 3 to see the final product.

https://imgur.com/a/Nc6Flk9

Part 1; Rough In https://imgur.com/gallery/Bz6p3s7

Part 2; Tiling and trim https://imgur.com/gallery/5knHs9X

Part 3; Finishing up https://imgur.com/gallery/W0giECl

TLDR;

Finished basement over 10 months, all but drywall was installed DIY.  Removed load bearing walls, in-slab plumbing, framing, rough-in, tile, trim, flooring. Insane amount of hours spent down there.

Just to preface, I am not a professional, I'd classify myself as an experienced amateur.

The long version, but still just a summary:

My wife has been pushing to finish our basement for a few years.  I've pushed back since now just because I liked the space unfinished.  Used it for the exercise equipment, bike storage/maintenance, and just about anything else storage.  Unfinished and uninsulated it stayed somewhat hababitable.  Low 80s in the summer and maybe as cold as 55 in the winter.

The builder plumbed a bathroom in the basement but it was not in the best spot for us, it was across the basement from the back door.  Since we have a pool, it would be ideal to have the bathroom close to the back door.

I thought alot about the layout, probably over a year, usually while on the stair climber looking around.  Came up with the idea of moving the bathroom by the backdoor and having the kitchen close by for plumbing.  I had to keep two rooms unfinished for storage and equiptment, one since the main floor AC was in it and the other was on an outside wall, needing direct access outside for the lawnmower (no door at the time).  The space we had for ducting and just having got a new AC downstairs, we decided to get a new AC unit for the basement instead of trying to zone the existing AC.

My plan also included removing a few load bearing walls to open up room for the gym.  The original plan was to put up a glass wall and door to separate off the gym, but we are still deciding on that.  The glass for that is close to 6k.

Though mostly DIY, I did hire a few pros, mostly out of necessity, but the drywall was straight up to save me 6 months of suffering.  Structural engineer, AC installer (I did the duct work), drywall labor and counter top guys. were the pros.

I only had two empty slots in my existing panel, so I would require a sub-panel.  I initially was going to hire this out but a friend talked me into doing it myself, t

I don't want to step on anybody's toes here, but the amount of non-dad jokes here in this subreddit really annoys me. First of all, dad jokes CAN be NSFW, it clearly says so in the sub rules. Secondly, it doesn't automatically make it a dad joke if it's from a conversation between you and your child. Most importantly, the jokes that your CHILDREN tell YOU are not dad jokes. The point of a dad joke is that it's so cheesy only a dad who's trying to be funny would make such a joke. That's it. They are stupid plays on words, lame puns and so on. There has to be a clever pun or wordplay for it to be considered a dad joke.

Again, to all the fellow dads, I apologise if I'm sounding too harsh. But I just needed to get it off my chest.

My oldschool sprinter van blew up at 360K. Shoulda changed the injectors preemptively, it was running like 10-20f hotter than usual but I thought it was the fan that I had just replaced. There was no sign of trouble or any issues other than the sometimes slightly higher temperature, until it stumbled at a stoplight. It never stumbles, so I immediately scanned for codes with my scanguage 2, got a misfire. Immediately pulled over, and by that time oil was shooting all over the hood and ground out the dipstick tube, smoking everywhere up with poisonous fumes.

Well, some mean old guy tried calling the cops on me, saying it's private property when I was clearly parked on a public easement, 12" from the side of the road. I pulled the PCV valve off, rode my skateboard to the auto store for some more oil, and when it was shooting oil out of the dipstick tube with the PCV valve removed, I knew the engine was blown. (Should I go park there again, just to prove a point?)

When a PCV valve clogs, it can cause excessive crankcase pressure, which can shoot oil out of places that aren't supposed to shoot oil - because there's nowhere for the pressure to be relieved. Remove the PCV, and the pressure will be relieved, so if it's still shooting out oil, the engine is scewed. Probably blew a hole in a piston from an overfueling injector - common on these oldschool sprinters with a lack of a hacked dealer level scanner for injector smooth running and cylinder contribution tests.

So, I had to think of a plan fast - get closer to my storage locker, on an industrial street far away from schools, that I can push the van along. Found the perfect spot and my van managed to limp there, slowly, agonizingly, nervously, consuming 2 gallons of oil in several miles. I cleaned up the mess right away (Always have lots of paper towels on hand), bagged it up and kept a low profile for the first week. I was now out of a job (Delivery guy) and only had a broken motorcycle across the street in my locker. I cleaned up the carb and got the moto fixed up, reinstalled my wood stove in the van, found some pallets to sledgehammer and burn, and started looking for broken down sprinter vans. Found one in colorado, it had hit a pole, guy said it was in a fender bender and just needs a new radiator. I got there, and the guy doesn't even own the property the van is on, won't give me a ride or any help and is unresponsive, rental cars cost $100 a day so that was outta the option. Ended up riding a push s

Do your worst!

Hello! I'm looking to upgrade my kit. I'm a pro sound designer (for video games) and have a decent kit but would like like a way to record BOTH a stereo image and ultrasonic in both the studio and field. I record mostly creative source for hard effects for modern combat and sci-fi games.
Here's what I already have:
SD MP 10 ii (and back up H6)
R-NTG3
R-NT5 pair
AT-BP4027
Sanken CO100k
a number of standard dynamics
2x standard blimps, in which I dual mount

In order to get better field ultrasonic recordings (and stereo image option) I'm considering swapping in:
Sen 8040 st pair + rycote blimp for st pr
OR
8050 (or 8040?) + MKH30 + normal blimp, dual mic mount

I haven't entirely thought through this...and I'm not entirely sure how to mount everything. Ideally, I'd have one blimp that has it all - but that seems a little unlikely.

Any suggestions or recommendations?

THANKS!

They were cooked in Greece.

I'm surprised it hasn't decade.

(This is mostly an exercise in re-packaging a small project, and soldering in a headphone jack. I'm excited to be supporting the bat enthusiast community which never gets enough love...)

The Haynes bat detector kit is a cheap (£20) hetrodyne frequency decreaser (lowers the pitch but not playback speed) . The solderless Haynes kit: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Haynes-HBD2766-Detector-Construction-Black/dp/B07PWQZPC3

It appears to be an original Franzis bat detector kit, with some modifications. The Franzis version requires some soldering to connecting up the knobs, speaker, and microphone as well as some components (a chip and capacitors). The original Franzis soldered kit: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Franzis-Make-your-Detector-Manual/dp/3645652760

Haynes I think have bought the design, and put all the components on the circuit board, added connector plugs, and produced a "solderless kit" that just plugs together. That can be done in about 15 minutes, going slowly!

It's useable and much cheaper than other bat detectors on the market, but its case is the cardboard box the components and instruction manual came in. This makes it extraordinarily cumbersome.

As I've got a 3D printer it was naturally a perfect product to design a case for!

I've designed a 3D printed box that folds up the bits into a much smaller "pocket sized" footprint, and counter-sinks the mic, to prevent damage.

I've removed the loud speaker for size reasons, and added a headphone socket. You can get the 3.5mm TRS female stereo panel mount solder connector here:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MTNOEOT/

Sadly I've not found a way of connecting the headphone wire up to the connector without adding a dab of solder. If you know of a way, please let me know!

The 9v supply and volume control should be ok to prevent your little headphones from burning out from the speaker power, although this model of the kit I found to be rather quiet from the speaker, so headphones should be ok powered by the same circuit. If you're worried, only use CHEAP headphones, or add your own inline resistor.

The 3D print designs so far (yes the case is so small the frequency chart doesn't all fit on. SIZE FIRST!). It has internal supports for the battery, ultrasonic mic, and headphone jack that you c