Working on a project now and I need generator of real random values. I want to use resistor for randomness source. As I see I need to get value of noise, amplify it and pass through converter. I know how to do all this steps except first. I’ve seen article by IEEE, but there you must send request to read it, so any help is appreciated.
How dangerous would it be bypassing this thermal fuse by soldering on a wire in its stead?
The fuse was burnt after the car had done 280 000 km ish
https://preview.redd.it/g3lbaneelms51.jpg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bb50f53bce757c8575de05d986cb75d5f74c2b77
Hi,
I am trying to benchmark/compare two multi-physic software and specifically I would like to compare the thermal simulation when using a two-resistor thermal modelling (junction-to-case and junction-to-board) because this would be the scenario we would go on using the software. However, the chips that I will use are quite expensive and require complex routing, so I am looking for a very simple IC (a diode would be the ideal case I'd say) that presents a two resistor model.
Anyone has any suggestion?
Thanks in advance
From what I know about linear voltage regulators is that they dissipate extra energy as heat to cause the voltage to drop. I am working on an existing old design that uses a 12V linear regulator to convert 24V → 12V (about 50mA).
Unfortunately, when this runs it gets warm, and the warmth affects how the PCB works. Before entering the re-design phase to add a switching voltage regulator, I'm wondering if you know of any tips or tricks to keep heat generation at a minimum.
I know a lot of manufacturers list heat generated in their datasheets in the form of "degrees celcius per watt". I'm going to see if I can manage to find a regulator that generates less heat.
There is a 0.1uF cap on the 24V side, and a 1uF cap on the 12V side. I'm wondering if making these a bit larger might also help inefficiencies in the regulator.
Let me know if there's any tips/tricks you're aware of, or if you think I'm looking for something that doesn't exist. Thanks!
TL:DR at the bottom.
Very often in this sub I come across users that want to debug some temp issue with their system but unfortunately don't have a water temp sensor installed.
Having a water temp readout is very important, not only to monitor your system for potential hazards, but also to benefit from water cooling:
Controlling your fans based on water temps instead of CPU/GPU temps will make them ramp up much slower, which is a lot more comfortable on your ears. Profit from the thermal capacity of your loop!
Now my DIY tip:
An inline water temp sensor is nothing more than a male-to-female fitting with a bog standard NTC-resistor wrapped around, and sometimes insulated with a bit of foam.
I discovered this when I accidently ripepd open a Phobia sensor. They didn't even use thermal paste.
Now I use standard NTC-resistors, like the ones Corsair delivers with their Commanders, or Aquacomputer with the Quadros and Octos, put them on radiators or fittings with some thermal paste and stick a piece of 3M sticky rubber tape on them.
This gives me ~.5K the same temps as a 10-20$ inline sensor, but allows me to install it without draining my loop and is much cheaper.
TL:DR: Stick a normal temperature sensor with thermal paste to a fitting or radiator, cover it with sticky tape. -> "Free" and accurate water temp sensor without draining the loop.
Prices do not include shipping. Assume $10-15 for continental USA, except for the case and power supply. I can provide an accurate cost once I pack what you want and get your zip code.
If you are interested and PM me, please provide me your zip code.
| Item | Pics | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Pic1, Pic2 | ||
| Pic1, Pic2, Pic3, Pic4, Pic5 | ||
| 256 GB Samsung 960 EVO m2 NVME | Pic1 | $20 |
References: https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=GSwapBot&subject=Feedback%20Check&message=Enter%20username%20below%20that%20you%20want%20to%20check:%0A%0Au/
https://www.heatware.com/u/16507/to
Do your worst!
For context I'm a Refuse Driver (Garbage man) & today I was on food waste. After I'd tipped I was checking the wagon for any defects when I spotted a lone pea balanced on the lifts.
I said "hey look, an escaPEA"
No one near me but it didn't half make me laugh for a good hour or so!
Edit: I can't believe how much this has blown up. Thank you everyone I've had a blast reading through the replies 😂
It really does, I swear!
They’re on standbi
Pilot on me!!
Hello everyone,
I love buying broken electronics and fix them as a hobby, last week i came across 3 xbox consoles ( V1.0 , V1.3 & V1.6 ) . I've never owned an xbox so i'm currently taking my time in learning as much as possible as i go through the repair/restorations, any comments or critiques are very much welcome. Just a FYI below are the status of each model i got,
-
Xbox Version 1.0 : Alot of Clock capacitor leak and very bad corrosion (i'll put a picture of the damage) the xbox was cleaned with contact cleaner and some vinegar as well and used a soft tooth brush, but the are above the clock capacitor is very well much gone and will need to be wired manually , also i can see two resistors non existent (picture incoming later) ; as a result this unit does not even power on at all , my guess is the power or eject button traces going up to the PIC microcontroller are broken i'll check it.
-
Xbox Version 1.3: This one is a USA model (110V) but where i live Mains is 220V so the power supply needs to be replaced with another PAL equivalent ( I'll post pictures later). Clock capcaitor leaked but the damage was not that bad like the V1.0 , all cleaned up . also the 3300uF caps were bulged so i replaced them. ( SIde note : This one is working with a transformer 220V-->110V but obviously I prefer to make it less clunky . I would really appreciate if someone would kindly lead me in the right direction as where can i find 220V power supplies for this model, much appreciated.
-
Xbox Version 1.6: This one had no screws whatsoever , the HDD in it is 80GB i doubt this is stock. The Xbox starts up but gives an error 06 which i believe means the HDD is not married correctly with the xbox so i ordered an aladdin XT to fix this problem ( I think that is the way to go ).
Note : All the above CPU and GPU were repasted with a fresh new thermal paste.
Please let me know if there are missing information, I'll update this post if needed.
BR
UPDATE: A quick followup for the project,
-
Xbox Version 1.0 : Turns out the previous owner got a US (110V) and plugged it in and kaboom so power supply is gone , So yesterday i brought out a pc ATX powersupply and wired up with a small circuit to handle all the powering and voila ! its working. So i ordered a replacement V1.6 as i couldnt find one v1.0 powersupplies anymore , will need to change the output ATX cable (double column -> single column) and add a voltage regulator for standby (5V->3.3V).
-
Xbo
Ok so I work for an ISP, I am also quite mechanically inclined.
My prints ( all) are missing/ poorly extruded layers
Replaced
Nozzle 2x
Thermal resistor 3x
Heater cartridge 2x
Extruder appears to function normal
All settings are the same
Tried multiple different brands of new filament
Checked all belts, pulleys, etc.
Bed is more level then my new house
No new configuration added etc
Capricorn Bowden tube is possibly too tight ?
Other then that I’m
Dad jokes are supposed to be jokes you can tell a kid and they will understand it and find it funny.
This sub is mostly just NSFW puns now.
If it needs a NSFW tag it's not a dad joke. There should just be a NSFW puns subreddit for that.
Edit* I'm not replying any longer and turning off notifications but to all those that say "no one cares", there sure are a lot of you arguing about it. Maybe I'm wrong but you people don't need to be rude about it. If you really don't care, don't comment.
What did 0 say to 8 ?
" Nice Belt "
So What did 3 say to 8 ?
" Hey, you two stop making out "
When I got home, they were still there.
