I bought a custom neck from Warmoth a while back and I have not been able to install my tuners. Because they’re vintage style, I have to insert ferrules into the headstock holes, but in order to fit them in evenly I have to ream out the edges a bit. However, I can’t find a reamer with a large enough radius (the holes are 5/8 in, so I need something larger than that) to do the trick. Anybody got suggestions or alternative ways to get the tuners in? Thanks!
I've been trying to create some staked furniture style projects based on Anarchist's Design Book's description of the style. I'm struggling to accurately cut the tapered tenon and hole for these projects without either a reamer or tenon cutter as described in the book.
Obviously I can order the tools from Lee Valley but I'm in a situation where I can't for a while. Does anyone have any advice on cutting this joint without the specialized tools?
My current approach is to carve the tapered tenon with an axe / knife and to make a roughly corresponding tapered hole using a hand drill and stepping down with various size paddle bits to create a roughly conical hole. This 'works' but the joint could be tighter and falls short of the ruggedness described in the book.
Any advice would be great! If no alternatives, I'd also love to hear about easy ways to improvise a reamer/tenon cutter for this type of work.
Working on a project that requires a relatively precise taper in a small ID tube. (One off odd chambered gun barrel to be exact). Any reason I need to buy a specific chamber reamer or can I use an internal profiling tool and adjust feeds and speeds to ensure the chamber is smooth?
Cycle time is not a concern, running this in a HAAS ST10Y so I’m not too concerned about rigidity. Material is 4140.
Hello, I'm new to machining. Just wondering, is there such a thing as a bottoming reamer? Like a bottoming tap that cuts all the way to the bottom of a hole, is there a reamer that would ream a hole all the way to the bottom?
Hi. I'm curious as to how it would be possible to get a "D" type reamer made. I'm new at this stuff, so excuse my ignorance, but the reamer needs to be around 2 feet long and have a specific linear taper, which can't just be bought at any store. It is for reaming wood.
to make clean m2 sized screw holes to attach an accessory onto a lexan body... do i use a "reamer" to do this??
I am having a hard time making small holes for bearings on a CNC or lathe. The best tool i can get my hands on the quickest its an adjustable Reamer but heard of the wonders of roller burnishing tools but that will take a while to get here plus they are quite expensive.
I am gonna make a lot of these holes for bearings now and in the future. I just need a consistent measurement of that hole. So I am not sure witch one is gonna last me longer and get the job done.
It will help me a lot to figure this out. Thanks
I’m upgrading the wiring of a Epiphone SG and need to enlarge the pot holes. Does anyone have a simple “buy this reamer” recommendation? It’ll see light use, I’m just tired of reviewing page after page for something I’m new to.
I’m an apprentice and need to use a sprue reamer to extend the sprue taper in the stripper plate.
How is the trig done if using a ball gage and depth mic or uni-mic?
Please post an example.
Hi. I'm curious as to how it would be possible to get a "D" type reamer made. I'm new at this stuff, so excuse my ignorance, but the reamer needs to be around 2 feet long and have a specific linear taper, which can't just be bought at any store. It is for reaming wood. Yes, I've tried Googling custom reamers, but they are way too fancy, I just need something precise but simple.
