Needlenose Pliers Puns

Posting for my wife. Trying to be as helpful as possible.

She's having trouble finding a good set of both needle nose and round tip pliers for wrapping. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

My dad's tools are much higher quality than the tools I see at Home Depot today. Are there any tool companies making particularly high-quality everyday tools?

I mostly need needlenose pliers that can cut thin-gauge steel cable without dulling, but I wouldn't be opposed to some other tools too.

Two pairs one with wire cutters. Estate sale $1 each.

I used PB Blaster. That got them to open. However when I open them all the way they got stuck. Then I used wd40 thinking maybe rust needed to be removed from the joint. Let it sit. Exercised them. Not much improvement. So I put on standard household machine oil.

They open and close freely with more then enough range to use. I'm more curious why they get stuck when open all the way.

Ever notice that a lot of youtube gear review channels put a lot of emphasis on how "tactical" a piece of gear is, including multi-tools? Why?

I have to be honest--there is very, very, very little reason to have a blacked out tool. From what I've seen, blacking out tools seems to be popular among the crowd that thinks everything is better if it's "tactical." How can I put this nicely? "Tactical" is nothing but marketing bullshit to appeal to wannabe Rambos--it doesn't mean anything. If you want me to completely disregard your opinion on any type of gear, describe it as "tactical"--you've just lost all credibility. There are channels that have "tactical" in their name, as if they are authorities on what "tactical" means. They are not. They are morons. The "tactical" crowd is as reputable as people using astrology for financial planning. It's a joke. It's nothing but a marketing buzzword, and there are goobers out there who have built their entire lives and lifestyle around a marketing buzzword. "Tactical" has no meaning. You're not SWAT, or a soldier, or an "operator," because you have a knife with a blacked out blade. No one gives a fuck that you won't reflect sunlight towards your target and give away your position, because you're not a fucking sniper drawing a bead on them from a half a mile away; you're a role player, playing make believe.

Sorry, needed to vent. I go to youtube to get reviews of these tools, because I can't just go and spend $500 a month or more on multi-tools. And I would guess that approximately 80% of multi-tool/gear review channels are run by "tactical" clowns, which is way too much misinformation and fantasy to have to sift through to get to any practical information, let alone legitimate opinion formed by realistic expectation. You're not gonna be digging that slug of hot lead out of your leg with the needlenose pliers of your multi-tool, and it's time to stop giving legitimacy to the dopes who believe that "tactical" is some sort of legitimate criteria.

Is there an easy tool for unplugging 12-pin cables from their sockets? I've been using needlenose pliers, but they can often slip. Any help would be very appreciated! :)

And I guess linesman pliers too. I've been at it a month and a half on various jobsites, and my needlenoses haven't left my bag. My linesman have, but only to be used as a hammer. But my journeyman always uses channies as his hammer, so I haven't had a use for them, as I'm following in his steps and using channies (they're generally useful enough that I keep them in my back pocket)

So what are each supposed to be used for?

Edit - Sorry, my title should've Been: Results of qualitative nose leakage testing of masks/modifications using microphone. I did throw out some half-baked conclusions to try to explain my results, and I was trying to convey in the title that there seemed to be no absolute rules on what is better/worse without considering all the elements of the mask together, but I am of course no expert on mask design.

I have done a lot of experimenting checking for leakage on various masks and mask modifications, by using a mic as described here Using an Android phone with wired earbuds/mic for mask leak check (no, I'm not kidding!).

I'd like to share my results/conclusions just for info for anyone who's interested, but NOT to tell anyone else what to do. I think I learned some things along the way as discussed in conclusions… at least I hope it may be thought provoking to see the possible (postulated) ways these mask design features interact.

Early on I figured out that (for my face) the most challenging place to get a seal was around the nose. I did not detect leakage anywhere else (except leakage on side of KF94 which was easily detectable by listening while puffing out even before mic test, and easily fixed with modest tightening of earloops)…

So the focus of my testing (and this post) is on nose leakage. And also, for convenience purposes I personally want an earloop mask (see also discussion here ), so my goal was to find earloop configurations that would seal the best around the nose, ideally as good as the aura 95 that I had which imo seems like a gold standard in preventing leakage at the nose.

I added nosewires to various masks by cutting open the slot and replacing the built-in nosewire with an alternate nosewire. Example video here my video - Putting a stiffer nosewire into a Powecom KN95

Below are the Nose Bridge Wire options that I used, from least stiff to most stiff. (When two things are ranked the same then I gaive them the same first digit and varying 2nd digit like 2.1 and 2.2)

• 1 - Single stick-on nose-wire (least stiff). Dimensions: 0.5mm(0.002inch) thick, 5mm(0.2inch) wide, 90mm(3.5inch) long. [Amazon link](https

If you haven't seen my post here, the long story short is my Focal Elegias' headband failed after a year and a half of normal use. Picture of the damage:

broken headband

I didn't want to deal with repairing the plastic (and I didn't like the headband much to begin with) so I decided to instead disassemble a pair of HifiMan Sundaras with a flaky driver and use its headband to create the FocalMan Elegidara.

The following will be a guide for doing this swap- I will be using the Hifiman hybrid headband because I already had one sitting around, but it should work similarly for any other headband you want to use, as long as the attachment points are similar enough.

To remove the headband, you need to disassemble the cups- remove the pads, then the silver screws under it.

Carefully remove the driver and frame assembly from the cup, being careful not to let the driver fall anywhere- it is not attached!

driver and frame assembly

Here is the standalone driver:

standalone driver

After you do that, you will have exposed the inside of the cup, which looks like this:

Empty cup

Remove the pins on either side holding the headband prongs in using a pair of needlenose pliers. DO NOT LOSE THESE, they are tiny and ESSENTIAL to putting the headphones back together properly.

remove these

and pull the prongs out from the cup. This will detach the headband.

Now you want to remove the prongs from the headband so you can transplant them into the HifiMan headband. You could use the HifiMan prongs instead, but they do not fit in the Focal cups, use horrible screws instead of the (admittedly rather elegant) pin system Focal uses, and are generally rather horrible (at least the revision I have are, I had to dremel one out because the screw stri

Hi everyone, recently my 2018 G30 started complaining that one of the glow plugs resistance is bad. I had a 2 years warranty, so now I do most of the small maintenance myself, so decided to replace it.

​

BMW manual says that I need to unlock the connection with special pliers. I tried pulling on it with needlenose pliers but could not disconnect it.

​

Maybe someone knows how to disconnect the cable from glow plugs on the B47 engine? Should I just pull hard like on older engines? Or is there some kind of "lock" that needs to be unlocked before pulling?

ANSWER:

You just squeeze and pull on small “tabs” on sides of square connector like this.

Hola. I need information about the driver chasis in the back of an SFIC plug- what actuates the lever. Now, this is the 3rd lock I have come across where the 2 tines are so loose- it's impossible to insert a new core. The bigger problem is that I can't seem to remove them. I used needlenose pliers, gripped firmly, yanked as hard as I could= they didn't budge. Now, normally, a slight force is enough to remove a normal driver but the 3 I've come across don't seem to want to budge. And it's weird too because for as wobbly as they are= they never break off. I don't know if they are screwed in tines of riveted? but the only solution I can think of is to take off the side plate- unscrew to hold pin and simply remove the mortise. But this isn't going to solve that the driver will still be stuck and I don't feel like buying 3 new mortise's- which are all in working order. Any suggestions?

#Intro

Doing all the toluene extraction is a pretty big hassle for most people, and some propylhexedrine is guaranteed to be lost in the process. However, the first step of many TEKs is to soak and agitate in a weak acid, such as lemon juice or preferably acetic acid AKA vinegar. Unlike the evaporation steps, this can be done discreetly with little smell. The separation step is a whole other can of worms.

To mitigate this difficulty, I've read of people throwing a cotton into a soda or energy drink, drinking it, and having good results... but I question how much of that is actually placebo+sugar+caffeine. Regardless, caffeine makes me sick and I don't have a lot of childhood memories involving soda with which to generate any placebo, so this isn't really an option for me.

Ever since watching Cowboy Bebop as a kid I've consumed prairie oytsers any time I'm hungover. I eat onigiri with quadruple the recommended amount of rice vinegar at least twice a week. For me, the only flavor of potato chip that's worth sacrificing my health is salt & vinegar. For whatever reason, I fucking love the taste of vinegar. You know where I'm going with this, you read the title. Anyone have experience doing this? Please share if so, but regardless this will become a trip report in an hour from time of posting.

#Methods and Materials

Rice vinegar varies in pH from 2-3 and the oft-recommended white distilled vinegar has a pH of around 2.5. For what it's worth, the brand I'm using (Narcissus) tastes slightly more acidic than other brands of rice vinegar I've tried. I guess this will be research for both the effects of drinking vinegar as well as using rice vinegar specifically, something that apparently has not been recorded on the net before.

##Preliminary notes about my state:

• very experienced with propylhexedrine as well as more advanced stims, though I haven't done any stims in a week and I have a bit of a tolerance
• will refrain from other drugs til the peak, but I will mitigate the comedown with vaped delta 8 THC
• eaten nothing besides a small portion of curry and rice for breakfast plus I'm healthy and well-rested
• pic of single cotton being used

I tore up the cotton into 9 roughly equally sized pieces using needlenose pliers, poured 100mL of rice vinegar on it (probably too much but I figured a greater volume would maximize extraction), and have been c

knolling

List, left to right:

1. Milwaukee 1/4” impact

2. Milwaukee 1/2” Hammer Drill

3. Milwaukee fuel 1/2” high impact

4. Milwaukee charger

5. Milwaukee General tool bag

6. Dewalt General tool bag

7. Bosch Daredevil quickbits

8. Assorted metric bolts

9. Hurricane high voltage screwdriver kit

10. Ames laser distance measure

11. Knipex adjustable pliers

12. Knipex Needlenose

13. Knipex flush cutters

14. Knipex linesman pliers

15. Harbor Freight gang template

16. Stanley 30’ tape measure

17. Franklin Sensors stud finder

18. Dewalt magnetic level

19. CCTV Cam tester

20. OWL Masomry bits

21. Milwaukee gloves

22. Electrical tape

23. Klein Tools multimeter

24. Generic rubber mallet

25. Knee pads

26. Jackson Palmer general bitset

27. Milwaukee quick change extension

28. some shitty philips head screwdriver that I’ve had since I was 12 that just won’t die

29. Wiss right handed tin snips

30. Gerber multi tool

31. a box knife that I found on the side of the road

32. Dewalt socket set

33. RJ-45 heads

34. Zip ties

35. fishing rods

36. Shitty Klein tools wire cutters that I loan to my workers when they forget theirs

37. Klein tools Strippers/pliers

38. KNIPEX LV Stripper

39. REALLY shitty ideal termination tool that I loan to my guys when they forget theirs

40. Klein tools termination tool

41. Klein tools #66/110 punch down

42. KNIPEX adjustable stripper

43. extraordinarily shitty tin snips

44. shitty gear wrench

45. broken set of Ryobo HSS bits

46. most used drill bits

47. Ridgid multi tool heads

48. Precision screwdriver set

49. GPD Micro PC for camera testing and AP setup

50. Tough-built rolling tool bag

i'd say this is a problem that's been going on for at least 5 years... i'm pretty sure the first victim was a shirt my best friend bought my oldest that she got to wear all of once before the dryer chewed a hole in rainbow dash's eye. and it's not even a hole, really, it's like... imagine pinching a piece of fabric and then twisting it with needlenose pliers. it wears away the print on the shirt and distorts the fabric in just that tiny spot. and it only does it to shirts that have a design on the front.

i've tried just making sure shirts with designs are inside-out when they go in the dryer, but (a) it fucking turns them right-side-out again and (b) i keep missing one, and invariably that's the one that gets chewed up. my youngest has a batman shirt that literally cannot make it through a wash cycle without getting chewed, i've already replaced it once and sure enough, i missed it when turning everything inside out and it got chewed up today. worse, it got TWO of his batman shirts in the same fucking cycle. and nobody sells paint pens with latex paint in them so i can't just draw the designs back on.

this fucking machine is probably older than my kids, the front is literally yellowed it's so old, but hubs doesn't want to replace it unless it's non-functional and non-fixable. i really just don't want to bother. the interior light is busted, it eats clothes, and half the time stuff comes out of an hour-long cycle still damp. i'm over front-loading machines too, they're at a decent height when they're on those drawer things but now he has them directly on the floor and i have to fold myself in half to get anything in or out of them. i loooooove those samsung flexwash things and i would use the shit out of them whenever the kids drop food and i want to get the stain out before it sets, but i really don't see hubs dropping $2500 on a new laundry set. if only there was a way to win the lottery without playing it...

RIA X4

So, let's say you're like me and can't throw down 2 grand for a Bennelli M4? What's a cheap dude supposed to do right? You can save pennies forever OR you do the Wish dot com Benelli after some homework.

This is a Rock Island Arms X4 12 gauge combat shotgun made by Derya Arms in Turkey and imported by RIA. I watched more than a few youtube vids and decided to roll the dice.

The weapon started its new life as a $272 delivered and FFL transferred 12 gauge semiauto (4+1).

To modify it, I took a hacksaw, made a small prayer to Vulcan and cut ONE thread off the magazine tube in order to get rid of the lip holding the spring and caps captive inside the tube. Added a Carlson's Benelli Nova +2 magazine extension to the front and clipped 3.5 inches from the spring. Turned the clipped end into a roiugh circle with a pair of needlenose pliers and capped it. A 7 dollar aluminum spring cap at the top completed that element of the mod. I also found a second aluminum cap hiding in the tube and concealed by the red plastic caps. Ghost ring sights are already present and they are accurate enough, so I then put a 45 degree offset rail in backwards (I'm a lefty) and a cheapo $30 red dot sight. Locktited everything down after testing and it RUNS. Disassembled everything and used plenty of CLP to ensure everything is smooth running.

The 9 shot shotgun cards got off Chinesium (Ali) Express for about $4.10 per card delivered. Cheapest US competitor was $11+ shipping.

Total loadout is 6+1 + 9X2 rounds of 12 gauge.

Total price after mods? $398 (+ ammo and a few cents worth of CLP)

Performance? Already burned two cases of buckshot and slugs practicing with it. YES it's slick, quick & ZERO malfunctions of any kind even with reduced recoil loads or low brass birdshot.

My next mod will be to take a set of furniture from a Hatsan Escort Turkish Walnut Supreme to make what I think will be the perfect "gentleman's combat shotgun" for the discerning yet cheap citizen.

This happened yesterday. I can’t tell anyone I know, but this is a story I can’t keep to myself.

Last night I got a burst of energy and decided to clean my room before bed. Earlier in the day I had some free time and indulged my self with some fun toys. I figured I might as well wash them as I was cleaning everything else.

To rewind for a moment, months ago the drain in my sink broke so there’s nothing covering that drain. It’s just a hole into the plumbing abyss.

Fast forward to yesterday. I brought my vibrator to the sink and rested it on the side for a second while I went to grab another toy. As I walked out of the washroom I heard a rolling sound and knew I fucked up.

Because God hates me, the vibrator is the perfect size to fit directly into the drain. My favourite toy was lodged in the nasty sink pipe, fun-side down. Why was it nasty? Because that pipe is lined with disgusting black sink sludge that I definitely could have cleaned on any given day.

Obviously I couldn’t just leave it there for someone else to find. I tried everything, pulling it out with my hands, using popsicle sticks like chopsticks, wedging it out with a pen. Couldn’t be done. It just kept sinking deeper.

I had to go to plan b. I couldn’t call my dad about this like I normally would with any household problem. So my dumbass had to tell my roommate what was going on and get her help. She tried tweezers and pulling it out with tape, but all that accomplished was pushing it down the pipe several more inches.

Eventually we decided the best course of action was to remove the piping entirely and pull it out. But after I found the toolbox my luck changed.

As my roommate started getting the wrench out we found two pairs of needlenose pliers. With desperation rising as it struck midnight, we managed to grab it out on the third try with both of the pliers.

I Lysoled the vibrator twice and washed with soap twice. Still going to use it.

TL;DR: my vibrator accidentally rolled right into my sink drain and my roommate had to help me fish it out

The toilet flapper chain broke, and someone flushed the toilet, and the chain (apparently) got sucked out of the tank into the bowl. It appears to be caught in the small hole that's in the front of the bowl. I jiggled the chain with a pliers, but I'm not sure if there's anything I can do to try and get it free.

The chain is lightweight and is floating a bit. I presume the clip is what's causing it to get trapped.

I found a couple of diagrams that look a little like my toilet:

Here, where it says "jet": http://www.upfrontprice.com/images/Clipart/flush%20action%201.gif

And here's a larger diagram, showing how water flows, which I presume is how the chain got pulled into it: https://s3.amazonaws.com/eakes-production/assets/13594/original.jpg

Anyone have experience with this problem?

Tomorrow I'm going to try to find my angled needlenose pliers, and put on some gloves and see if I can do anything useful. Worst case, I'll get the wire cutters and cut the chain and leave it, but I'd rather not impede the water flow.

I don't want to step on anybody's toes here, but the amount of non-dad jokes here in this subreddit really annoys me. First of all, dad jokes CAN be NSFW, it clearly says so in the sub rules. Secondly, it doesn't automatically make it a dad joke if it's from a conversation between you and your child. Most importantly, the jokes that your CHILDREN tell YOU are not dad jokes. The point of a dad joke is that it's so cheesy only a dad who's trying to be funny would make such a joke. That's it. They are stupid plays on words, lame puns and so on. There has to be a clever pun or wordplay for it to be considered a dad joke.

Again, to all the fellow dads, I apologise if I'm sounding too harsh. But I just needed to get it off my chest.

Since the last FAQ page mysteriously disappeared (and I still can't figure out why) here is the new one. It is a summary of the community's favourite ways of obtaining/storing etc... their caps. If you want to add to it just comment below.

Obtaining:

Trading in person. Use Crowncaps.info to find people near you and organize a meetup -u/Legoking

Trading online, also through Crowncaps.info -u/LordBottlecap

Recycling centers -u/LordBottlecap

Antique shops and breweriana shows -u/LordBottlecap

Local classified ads like Craigslist or Kijiji (Canadian) -u/Legoking

Soda shops and ethnic grocery stores -u/LordBottlecap

Asking the waiter at a restaurant or bar -u/Redneckromeo22

Have friends bring some back when they travel -u/LordBottlecap

Ebay, just be careful because there are a lot of fakes there.

Go to a brewery and ask in person -u/Legoking

Identifying:

The Holy Trinity: Crowncaps.info (CCI), Bottlecapindex.com and BottleCapClub.com (CCSI). CCI is the most expansive with the most users, and gets dozens, sometimes hundreds of caps added to the database daily and has an advanced search feature. Bottlecapindex tends to be useful for finding caps with no text on them, since your search keywords also check the physical description of the cap. BottleCapClub.com is comprised mostly of American collectors and it has many American cork-lined caps which are not in CCI and has more information on breweries and bottlers than on CCI. -u/Legoking

Post on your country's bottle cap forum. If you go to Crowncaps.info, and look in the top left corner there is a link to a forum of the language that you have CCI set to. Ex: if you have CCI set to Polish mode, the link displayed will be the link to the forum for collectors in Poland. -u/Legoking

If you can't find it still, you can post it in this subreddit for help. -u/Legoking

Cleaning:

Use warm soap and water to rinse the cap, and let it dry overnight. -u/JDStap12

Needlenose pliers; stacks of various-sized coins, taped together, placed flat-side-down on an upside-down cap on a hard, flat surface. Apply hammer. u/LordBottlecap

For modern caps with sticker residue: Use a wet cloth to remove as much of the glue as possible. Use a dry piece of fabric to rub off the rest of the glue. It will come o

Do your worst!

I'm surprised it hasn't decade.

I wanted a mounted solution for my beloved KSC75's but couldn't find a 3D printed mount that would fit my Halo Strap. Also, I like being able to fold up the strap for storage. Here's my free solution:

I just used the stock earclips, stripped the rubber and cut and bent the wire to fit inside the hinge cover, which I drilled a tiny hole in to feed it through. Took a bit of jimmying with needlenose pliers to get it just right but it fit perfectly. I can swivel them back and forth and adjust them easily to get just the right amount of ear pressure. Best of all, they fold up for storage/travel!

I also did the Kramer mod on the headphones, shortened the cables to fit and ran them under the velcro headstrap. Perfecto!

https://preview.redd.it/ehdq2dlk1wq71.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ca80d378a0ef0e49fd78a685eff3c5bb7d8853c1

https://preview.redd.it/cxdld8lk1wq71.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b8b716cae8fa08227f5c912257d459ebc12fa9fe

https://preview.redd.it/mslogllk1wq71.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=61246479565e627b77736d2362a4f0756be2b094

https://preview.redd.it/yn97ojlk1wq71.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e6b85b819a1dcb3a8fb6f7567149f1568eeca39

https://preview.redd.it/a04eijku1wq71.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eb8872da5cc13f05ed1105b04fe8a3818bfe262b

https://preview.redd.it/p9g4cilk1wq71.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=912f5d50124effa1230991fa12c04b0d2fd64888

https://preview.redd.it/r5f0yn5x1wq71.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1a7febf8ee785d7a719814291f40487b76133aa7

knolling

List, left to right:

1. Milwaukee 1/4” impact

2. Milwaukee 1/2” Hammer Drill

3. Milwaukee fuel 1/2” high impact

4. Milwaukee charger

5. Milwaukee General tool bag

6. Dewalt General tool bag

7. Bosch Daredevil quickbits

8. Assorted metric bolts

9. Hurricane high voltage screwdriver kit

10. Ames laser distance measure

11. Knipex adjustable pliers

12. Knipex Needlenose

13. Knipex flush cutters

14. Knipex linesman pliers

15. Harbor Freight gang template

16. Stanley 30’ tape measure

17. Franklin Sensors stud finder

18. Dewalt magnetic level

19. CCTV Cam tester

20. OWL Masomry bits

21. Milwaukee gloves

22. Electrical tape

23. Klein Tools multimeter

24. Generic rubber mallet

25. Knee pads

26. Jackson Palmer general bitset

27. Milwaukee quick change extension

28. some shitty philips head screwdriver that I’ve had since I was 12 that just won’t die

29. Wiss right handed tin snips

30. Gerber multi tool

31. a box knife that I found on the side of the road

32. Dewalt socket set

33. RJ-45 heads

34. Zip ties

35. fishing rods

36. Shitty Klein tools wire cutters that I loan to my workers when they forget theirs

37. Klein tools Strippers/pliers

38. KNIPEX LV Stripper

39. REALLY shitty ideal termination tool that I loan to my guys when they forget theirs

40. Klein tools termination tool

41. Klein tools #66/110 punch down

42. KNIPEX adjustable stripper

43. extraordinarily shitty tin snips

44. shitty gear wrench

45. broken set of Ryobo HSS bits

46. most used drill bits

47. Ridgid multi tool heads

48. Precision screwdriver set

49. GPD Micro PC for camera testing and AP setup

50. Tough-built rolling tool bag