Hi people
Just wanted to know if anyone has ever made/bought a system that simplifys the spaghetti of cables, switches and relays ? Specifically for the ignition system I know about the little Motogadget system for all the accessories but no information on the actual ignition part of my bike
I have a 1997 Yamaha virago 535 . Currently stripped down engine will soon be stripped and blasted and sprayed and rebuilt , while the rolling chassis is going lower and more slimline. I don't really want any unnecessary wiring that I don't need and the wiring I do want just hidden out of sight . just wanted to know a way around this if possible???
Hey all.
I'm really interested in the Compression Sense Ignition that appeared on some Ecotec Saturns in the late 90's. There's a bunch of info here:
https://www.motor.com/wp-content/uploads/InvestigatingGMsCompressionSenseIgnition-November2004-1.pdf
I've been able to find out quite a bit about the principles of operation and how it works, but what I haven't been able to find is good photos or videos showing the parts (especially that plate under the coils that acts as a capacitive probe), or part numbers.
If anyone here has any pointers to such info (I would love to see a parts fiche for the whole ignition system), that would be much appreciated.
I have a 2000 NB Miata which will only run on 2 cylinders, 1 and 4.
I am so down bad I will literally pay the person that helps me diagnose this.
Let me get this out of the way: I have spent months and months on this specific issue and north of $500 trying to fix this. The entire ignition system has been replaced soup to nuts.
This is for sure a spark issue because I don’t get spark on 2 coils and I can smell the unburnt fuel.
I have brand new:
Plugs, HT Leads, Ignition coils, Wiring harness had been inspected and reinforced, continuity confirmed on signal cables to ecu, power and ground to coils, Crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft position sensor, ECU
The problem specifically is there is no signal on ignition coil 2 to fire.
Both coils are confirmed working.
I just tore the engine apart to make sure the timing belt hadn’t jumped a tooth and I don’t think it did. I re seated it anyway just in case and it looks dead on the money.
Still only 2 cylinders work. I’m so depressed and over this POS car
Edit: I love the car. I just wish i could drive it again I’ve owned it 3 months and it only ran for 1 and the truth is i miss it ;( But its been entirely serviced and refurbished and all new parts but i still can’t get it to fire on all cylinders.
Which system are you all getting it for? I’m torn between PC and PS5.
Hey guys, complete noob to ECU tuning here. I'm part of a team in college where we are supposed to build a car with high fuel economy. For the engine, we have a Honda GX80 which is an 80 cc single cylinder 4 stroke engine, equipped with a magneto ignition system. We want to convert it into an electronic ignition system in order to tune its ignition timing.
What are the components we need to achieve this? We have a microsquirt ECU (I'm not sure about the exact version currently since I'm out of town) which is hooked up to the engine for EFI. I read some stuff online about programmable ignition boxes, but I couldn't find enough information about them to figure how to use one on our engine. We do have a CDI box from an older engine, but I am confused whether the ignition timing can be tuned using that box.
Apologies if I missed some technical details, I'll add them in the comments if there are any. Me and my team is fairly new to ignition tuning and it's all a bit overwhelming right now so I thought I'll ask here.
Any help would be highly appreciated.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what else could be causing such bad gas mileage? I’ve done all the obvious possibilities but not sure what else it could be. I’m currently getting between 10-12mpg… I read about other people with the same Ranger getting closer to 300 miles on a full tank, I’m getting under 200. Would love suggestions on possible fixes.
I've posted a DIY guide to replacing your coils/ptu/plugs/wires/iacv. It's very thorough and contains no music or bs. Hopefully it helps someone here
https://youtu.be/D62H7ULPTIE
Exactly as it says in the title. This has been happening at random to my car for the past three days. I think it may be a case of the battery being on it's last leg (when I get it to restart, it wipes my clock data and all of my error lights reset themselves), but my old man isn't convinced. What weirds me out about it is that every time the car kills itself, it won't let me put the ignition back into the off position and remove my key, and when it comes back to life, my dashboard gives me the aforementioned "SERVICE THEFT SYSTEM" message.
Any help here would be very much appreciated.
Car Info:
Y/M/M: 2009 Buick Lacrosse CX Engine: GM 3800 Mileage: ~191000
Reading a recent post on here about a couple whose Sprinter got stolen a few days before they were due to depart, I was once again motivated to encourage people to install a security system that automatically kills the ignition if the system is activated by somebody shaking the van or trying to open a door or window.
The only system with which I have personal experience is Viper. There are other systems, and I'm sure they're good too. Pretty much any system is better than no system.
The Viper system secures all doors and windows, and has a vibration feature. I had mine set to the most sensitive level at first and rain or birds landing on my solar panels would set off the alarm if the system was on.
The Viper system kills the ignition when the alarm activates. The alarm status cannot be disarmed without the key fob. Plus, if somehow somebody manages to steal the van and drive away, you can kill the ignition remotely with your cell phone, plus you can locate the vehicle with live GPS.
We get enough sad reports about stolen vandwelling vans on here that I think everybody ought to have a top-flight alarm system installed.
https://www.safewise.com/resources/car-alarm-system-buyers-guide/
