Circlip Puns

Im looking into knipex for a couple circlip pliers, but i wanted to get a few opinions first. Ive had the channelocks, but one set of tips already broke, and they were getting a little hard to use from build up, so i cleaned them up and either i didnt put them back together right, or they just dont work like they should 😂.

Anyway, i wanna get a dedicated set for ext and int, but im not to sure on the differences of some of them. One pair type has just the bolt holding it in the center, some are jointed? (I cant think of the word) like long nose pliers, and some have the spring, which im assuming is for higher leverage, or just for convenience?

Ill mainly be using them for automotive, ratchet rebuilds, and machining. I prefer a larger size, 6 or 7 inch being ideal, but open to 5" or 9". What do you guys use? Not 100% set on knipex, but the price for the quality is what drives me towards them. Thanks everyone.

I’m looking for a set of circlip pliers with small enough tips to remove the circlip on my bmx hub driver. The only ones that I’ve found that I think would work are made by Park Tool, which are great, but I’m kind of hoping a less expensive pair exists out there. Automotive section at local stores all have circlip pliers with tips too large to fit the small circlip.

Thanks!

I’ve gotta say it’s pretty amazing these hubs have never been overhauled in 10 years ~50k kms of single track. The inside front wheel bearings had oem grease, I would just try to inject as much as possible through them during biannual servicing.

The aluminium nipples gave out and I decided to replace the hubs with new identical units, so I could overhaul these at my own pace, while collecting parts on the cheap. Last week snagged Dt swiss aerolite spokes for 1$ each 92% off rrp. Insane. They are white but whatever. Perfect for my 588 erd elite wheels carbon 345g 30mm wide 25mm deep project!

My question is. What’s the consensus on what needs replacing?

Obviously I am doing the labyrinth seal for the freehub

All new 6 bearings (the old ones had extremely minor notches I would never retire a bearing for such minimal wear though my hand was forced by the nipples failing)

I have new end caps for this so they have new internal orings.

New ratchets and springs a result of swapping them out from my current set

How about the circlip?

How about the shims? I’m guessing I should compere the thickness with oem. Does dt advertise a min level.

Ring nut appears perfect and I used Archimedes trick to unstuck that bastard, 18” shifter on the key with a 1 meter square steel tube for about 1.2 meters of leverage. Worked a charm.

I have digital vernier calipers, would they be “good” enough to identify if the axels need replacing? What deviation should I be looking for.

Overall the bike has always been well maintained. These are the original bearings, quite impressive.

I’m confident I could replace the bearings only and be fine. But I’d also like to put any money and time In now to protect my future self, Like using brass nipples

https://imgur.com/a/ieMEeUH/

Please and thank you!

Edit, more detailed spoke hole photos

Old spokes super comps 1.8mm new spokes 2.0mm

To be fully honest I’d be comfortable putting the old spokes back on knowing none have ever broken nor been operated in a low tension state. If that is going to be safer with the “bedding” (what’s the right word) the notches the spokes have made over time

https://imgur.com/a/tWTt1ft/

And I’m undecided how far I go with the paint. I couldn’t care less about aesthetics which is why I jumped at 92% discount on spokes cause they are white. If it was simple to dry ice or walnut blast them I’d consider taking the black paint off - ? Dunno - suggestions? Would they need to be “sealed” through some proce

Hi all

I'm a 3rd year Mechatronic Engineering student. We're currently working on a semester project for our machine design module in which we're tasked to design a backhoe able to fit on the flatbed of a vehicle (such as a pickup truck). The next hand-in is about the manufacturability and process plans.

In our initial design, the pins that connect the stick to the boom, and bucket to the bucket hinge initially had a flat circular side wider than the pinhole on one side (to stop it from sliding through) and a tiny hole for a lock pin to pass through at the other side (to stop the pin from sliding out during operation.)

In our final designs however, the hole and lock pin combination is replaced by an external circlip and circlip groove. We thought that it would be more secure than a lock pin, and circlips are more commonly used in the industry.

I would like to know, from a manufacturability standpoint, is it easier to make a groove for a circlip (by using a lathe) than it is to drill a hole through the pin?

Thanks!

I'm trying to gut a cheap Chinese Lock that I'm thinking of modifying for a challenge lock. There's no circlip holding the cylinder in though. I can't see anything that's holding it in with key inserted and turned...is there anyway to get this thing open?!

Can I get the cylinder out?

Hey all-

installing a bb30 right now, however-

the circlips do not have holes for pliers.

How do i get them to contracts enough to fit into the frame?

I had a new DR650 in 2013 and (foolishly) sold it 15k km later.

My plan until recently was to buy a new 2020 or 2021 model in Australia once we have immigrated from South Africa.

However I have noticed more threads online about the 3rd gear cirplip pieces being found when the oil is drained. I am really concerned about buying a new bike and:

1. The gearbox fails outside of warranty
2. The gearbox fails and locks up at speed

How widespread is this problem and how are you dealing with it?