Hey! i have to rebuild my 3 rib 4AGE in my AW11 and i have it all the way out of my car and i figured this is a good time to try and so something fun with it. Im going to make sure the bottom end is good and then just use that. as i understand the bottom end is pretty bomber up to 170 hp anyway. i plan on port and polishing the head and i really want to get 256* or 264* duration cams as i understand these are pretty widely accepted as being the best street cams. theres only one issue.
literally where do i buy these? so many people talk about how these are the best and so many are running them yet they are impossible to find??? does anyone have any ideas? i am in the US. also, do i need good valve springs i think. any help or advice would be really appreciated.
thanks so much -someone who just really wants to drive their MR2 for the first time.
Last Friday my check engine light came on and there was a squeaky noise coming from the engine. I took the car to Havoline the next day and they ran the code which came back as a camshaft position sensor, but they weren't able to do that kind of repair so I took it to Goodyear. The guy there told me that low or dirty oil can throw the same code so I got an oil change (that I was needing anyway), but they had to do their own diagnostic which I had to pay for. The check engine light came back on the next day so I basically paid $165 for an oil change and to be told that the problem is what I already knew it was.
I brought it back to the same Goodyear yesterday since I'd already paid for the diagnostic. The manager called me this morning and said that I actually need two timing cylinders, one for intake and one for exhaust, as well as a cylinder connection and that parts and labor should come to $615. He said that the timing cylinder is just another name for the camshaft sensor but I can't find anything on Google to back that up.
Can anyone let me know if that all sounds right before I drop $600 on a repair? I'm not a fan of this garage since two people can never seem to give me the same answer, but I wanted to bring it back here to avoid paying for another diagnostic somewhere else.
EDIT: I just picked up the car after declining the repair and it turns out I misheard the guy. The paperwork he gave me says that he said I needed the solenoid connector and intake/exhaust timing solenoids. Does any of that sound right?
I have a 600cc 4 cylinder Honda engine that my race car team uses.
The rules of the race mandate that we install an intake that is substantially smaller than the stock factory intake size to limit power.
This year, we want to optimize the stock camshaft profile to increase power across the whole curve (or at least the low end).
The engine is running on stock factory cams but its air intake is much more restricted than stock so the current camshaft profile is not optimal. So this means we need to reduce duration on intake and exhaust camshafts.
I am looking for help on how to find the new profile without simulation software.
(I'm guessing it will be something like this but I need to calculate actual numbers).
https://preview.redd.it/f1isou76tq171.png?width=454&format=png&auto=webp&s=650d7e13609180b0d3fd63f39a980c864d53a5a0
How do cam shops do this? Where can I find the formulas I need?
Thank you
I'm trying to sell my 2006 MDX Touring and someone asked me if that issue was addressed. I didn't know that was a common issue, and I still don't know what that issue would be specifically. I was hoping someone here might know as google wasn't being very helpful.
Any help is very appreciated!
Hey everyone, a few months ago I took my B18C type r head to the machine shop to get everything fixed up for my LSV swap. After picking it up, the head sat on the shelf in my garage for a few weeks while I struggled to find the time / being lazy to get back to work on the motor. Well now I am getting back to the rebuild and like an idiot I left my cams sitting out on my shelf not in any type of bag so they've been just gathering dust. I noticed that the cams have some light specs of surface rust, nothing eating into it, seems to mostly come out if I rub at it. My dad recommended just rubbing some scotchbrite on it and just cleaning them well before installing. I just wasn't sure if the cams had any special type of coating on them that might come off if I scuffed them up too much. Any recs on cleaning them?
Have anybody else had frequent problem with their camshaft position sensors, and if so what is it about them that they keep going out?
Sorry about the length, wanted to be detailed as possible.
I've had the car for a little over a couple months, a few weeks ago I noticed it started idling a little rough, the engine didn't always seem to get as much power as I felt it should have and randomly surged a few times. The symptoms started to declining but like a week and a half ago the engine light went on and got a code for the camshaft position sensor and an evap code.
So I ordered the cmp sensor online but like four or five days ago, the day before the sensor got here, the light went away when I started it up after putting gas in and hasn't returned. I figure that means the evap was the gas cap but have no idea what that means for the cmp sensor. This part may or may not be relevant but when it first started acting funny I switched to premium gas. The guy I bought it from told me regular ( he was selling it for his brothers wife though ) and everything I found online told me that the 1st generation V8 took premium but was contradictory on the 2nd generation.
From having an Alero previously I know early 2000's GM made things needlessly difficult to get to or even sometimes required special tool. Is the sensor probably just starting to fail and it will start to act up again so I might as well change it since I have one anyways? Or wait and see?
Thanks for any replies or anyone who bothered reading my 8,000 word essay. My car knowledge is basically limited to shit that went wrong in my previous cars that I could reasonably fix myself. So there's obviously massive gaps in there.
2005 ES330. Just trying to do the timing belt and water pump, need to pull the forward cam gear to pull the water pump out and this thing will NOT come loose. I calculated that I put easily 400 ft lbs on it, probably closer to 500 and damn thing won't budge. I've done belts on these before with no issue so I think someone was in this one already. I've given up. It's not gonna come off without a ton of heat.
Just ranting, I'm gonna have to trim the rear timing cover to get the water pump out. So pissed, I hate doing janky work.
I want to upgrade the cam in my 2015 2SS. I can’t find anyone within 75 miles of my local area willing to install an aftermarket cam and dyno/tune. Anyone in this group have any recommendations in the Pennsylvania, Ohio, West Virginia area?
My NB sadly decided it doesn’t want to use exhaust cam. Now I’m stuck with a freshly machined head and a broken exhaust cam.
I am in dire need of a BP4W cam. I’m local to Los Angeles but I’m willing to pay shipping if out of states.
So I have a 2009 Flex, and I'm like 95% sure I need to replace the timing chain (and water pump while in there), as it has thrown a few codes like p0016 and p0012 at times, and while I replaced the cam position sensors, cleaned and tested the VVT solenoids, the codes came back, and it just started running a little rough.
So while looking around at what I need to do this job, I keep coming across these camshaft holding tools, to keep everything in position while installing the new chain. However I can't seem to find one for the 2009 Flex. Everything says 2010 or later. Will this work for the 2009 3.5L?
genuine bmw is $150, while the other brands are $50-80
Any reason to get genuine over the OE replacements which are half the price?
Hey could anyone help me with figuring out the torque specs/sequence on a 2012 Ford Fushion SEL 2.5L 4 cylinder?
Like the title says, I have an 05' Nissan 350Z that posts a P0340 error code. I replaced the part and the code persists as well as the check engine light and TCS/SLIP indicators. The car starts but has no power and smells like it's running rich.
What else could be causing this P0340? Should I just take this POS in?
So it was all oily and slippery and I dropped it a good 2ft on to a concrete floor. So is it fucked? I heard somewhere that dropping a cam means u need a new cam :(
I have a 600cc 4 cylinder Honda engine that my race car team uses.
The rules of the race mandate that we install an intake that is substantially smaller than the stock factory intake size to limit power.
This year, we want to optimize the stock camshaft profile to increase power across the whole curve (or at least the low end).
The engine is running on stock factory cams but its air intake is much more restricted than stock so the current camshaft profile is not optimal. So this means we need to reduce duration on intake and exhaust camshafts.
I am looking for help on how to find the new profile without simulation software.
(I'm guessing it will be something like this but I need to calculate actual numbers).
https://preview.redd.it/tgdyvej5tq171.png?width=454&format=png&auto=webp&s=3bd1149b68e38352fceeb1c843df1440c7e13c4d
How do cam shops do this? Where can I find the formulas I need?
Thank you
