Title. Specifically, I'm thinking of an NES or Sega Genesis.
I have to find a voltage regulator in LTSPICE, which connected to a 12V LTSPICE battery gives me -5v.
I tried to find the LM79xx models in LTSPICE but I cannot find them. Do you guys know any other similar regulator?
Hi, all!
I have a circuit for which I need to optimize the current draw/minimize the power consumption. I am moving from powering it with an external power supply to a rechargeable battery, and so am trying to determine the best battery and voltage regulator for my application. All of the IC components have a minimum input/operating voltage of 2 V or lower, and a maximum operating voltage of 3.6 V or higher. My question is three-fold:
- I figure I should operate the circuit as close to 2 V as possible to reduce the current drawn by the circuit as much as possible. Are there common issues to be aware of when operating components closer to their minimum operating voltages than to their maximum operating voltages? Edit: A couple that I am aware of: 1. signal propagation time is increased; 2. RF components may not be able to transmit at full power
- I am looking for the right battery to accomplish this. It needs to have a thin and flat profile, be ~10 g or less, have a capacity of at least 50 mAh, and cost under $5 at quantities of ~1000. There are lithium-ion/polymer batteries available that meet those qualifications, but they all operate at or near 3.7 V. Anything that I can find that outputs 2-2.5 V, like what's available from Digi-Key, doesn't meet one or more of those other requirements. Is there something I'm not looking at here that I should be?
- If I do have to go with a battery outputting 3.7 V, I think I'll have to use a linear voltage regulator to drop the voltage at least below 3.6 V. But then, should I just operate the circuit close to 3.6 V? My understanding is that a linear voltage regulator reducing the voltage to ~2 V would expend all of the extra energy as heat. So, would doing that void the purpose? I haven't looked at switching regulators much because I have RF components in the design, and I've read that switching regulators are noisy, and not as simple to design around.
Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks!
Hello everyone!
I'm replacing a voltage regulator on a 1985 Ford F150 pickup and am wondering if I should get the premium voltage regulator?
I just had a burned up alternator (second one in 1.5 years) and a bad battery (also second in 1.5 years) and am replacing both (warrantied, thankfully). The alternator install manual said to replace the VR at the same time.
Is this a part that's worth buying "high end"?
I'm in the southeast US if climate makes a difference.
I bought a gameboy color that was broken and would not turn on. After lots of different tests I found the problem to be the voltage regulator. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement or maybe a substitute part for it?
Well, it looks like my original theory from months ago that my alternator was going WAS right. Everything seemed fine for a few months with a new battery, then suddenly while in a mall parking lot, all my electronics went haywire. ABS 4x4 light, then basically the entire dash lit up with error lights, then it all just died. AAA came with a charger which would get it started, but as soon as they took it off it immediately died again. So dead that my flashers wouldn't work. Is it my alternator? Could it be my voltage regulator or something cheaper/easier?
Worst part is that I am not even going to be using this car for 6 months (out of the country) from January til June and was going to have my dad or brother run it and drive it around once a week to keep it alive, but now it's just dead. Additionally, my mother is trying to force me to sell it, despite that I am 23 years old and it's in my name, lol.
2008 335xi 106,500 miles
I have a 2000 RMK 700 that is in need of a voltage regulator. Many of them that state they fit only come with 1 yellow wire. The sled has a 3 wire connector. The previous owner had one with a single yellow wire connected to the middle port on the connector on the sled. I checked my 2000 RMK 600 and it has the same thing, one yellow wire.
Does anybody know what the other wires coming from the sled are for? I believe they are orange.
From what I know about linear voltage regulators is that they dissipate extra energy as heat to cause the voltage to drop. I am working on an existing old design that uses a 12V linear regulator to convert 24V → 12V (about 50mA).
Unfortunately, when this runs it gets warm, and the warmth affects how the PCB works. Before entering the re-design phase to add a switching voltage regulator, I'm wondering if you know of any tips or tricks to keep heat generation at a minimum.
I know a lot of manufacturers list heat generated in their datasheets in the form of "degrees celcius per watt". I'm going to see if I can manage to find a regulator that generates less heat.
There is a 0.1uF cap on the 24V side, and a 1uF cap on the 12V side. I'm wondering if making these a bit larger might also help inefficiencies in the regulator.
Let me know if there's any tips/tricks you're aware of, or if you think I'm looking for something that doesn't exist. Thanks!
I'm trying to do some research into a excitation supply for a work project that needs to satisfy these conditions:
- 10VDC high noise input
- 10VDC very low-noise, 0.1% or better tolerance output (this is for laboratory instrumentation like sensors and transducers)
- 50mA+ current supply (needs to keep a steady voltage at the higher current outputs)
- 16 channels (I can multiply whatever circuit will work for each channel)
- No budget
So far I've experienced with a voltage reference but once it hits 20mA load, the voltage breaks down. All other solutions I've found are either more noise/worse tolerance or too low of a current output. It feels like I've hit a bit of a brick wall. Does anybody have ideas?
Hi all, I am working on a project with the layout attached, it's essentially a stepper motor controlled by wemos D1 mini. I am using a 12v input and a voltage regulator to bring it down to 3v where needed. The A4988 has a voltage regulator and I have it at max (0.850v). I am using a NEMA17 1.7A 0.59 Nm bipolar stepper motor.
It worked fine for a couple of minutes and then the AMS1117 voltage regulator exploded and the other components got fried too :) I suspect the problem is in AMS1117, is there some way I can validate this? I thought the A4988 and Wemos together wouldn't draw much current, but I might be wrong.
https://preview.redd.it/195m61i41l181.png?width=763&format=png&auto=webp&s=662e4ec5107cf95b7bbca6933f7fafcd65ea58ff
