I just installed a TAV from OMBwarehouse on my CT200U-EX and it’s making a metallic “ping” sound occasionally when engaging or at idle, is this normal?
Like what advantages does it have over a centrifugal clutch in 4 strokes
How does fluid pressure change the efficiency output? Can I just fill up a torque converter and expect it to function as designed or does the fluid need to be pressurized? I'm neglecting heat transfered to the oil as the TC will only transmit energy for a few seconds with several minutes of cooldown between cycles.
Suppose you have a drivetrain that goes ICE crank>electronically controlled clutch>motor>transmission, with a separate motor for the accessory belt. It seems like this drivetrain shouldn't need the engine to idle or have a flywheel or for the transmission to have a torque converter or reverse gear, which should save a lot of emissions, weight, and space. With this drivetrain, the motor could accelerate from a dead stop and reverse, with the engine only starting at what its idle speed would have been and only in forward gear. But I've never heard of a drivetrain like this (and it seems like a good idea, to me), so there I'm guessing there are major problems with it. I know start-stop systems have gotten pretty good, but how close are they to eliminating engine idle, completely? And flywheels, torque converters, and reverse gears?
Thanks!
Original owner of the 2013, well maintained, just turned 200k miles and took to dealership for service. I mentioned noticing a shimmy in the front end at certain speeds. Dealership says the torque converter needs replacement and quoted $2,500, ugh. How urgent do you think this needs replacement? Doesn't seem to bad now, but can it do more damage if this doesn't get repaired soon? Should I be happy with 200k and just chalk this up to expected wear and tear? It looks and runs great, hope to be driving it for another 200k.
So I got a go kart cheap with a 4 stroke and put a predator 212 in it. It has live axle and 12” back tires, the sprocket on axle is 38T and I got 10T on motor. Would a 4/1 gear ratio shred belts like this? Only mods on go kart is governor removal. It is also possible something on torque converter is bent because the first ride the chain would rub on torque converter, I had to reweld motor mount to fix that issue. But these are my two possibilities I have concluded could be the issue, any advice?
Hey All,
2012 Outback 3.6r- 5EAT Transmission - 154,000 miles
Took our car to the dealer to be looked at. It felt like we were driving on rumble strips occasionally around 45mph. The dealership sent me a quote wanting to do the torque converter replacement and a valve body rebuild. That totaled around $3,000. Tack on all the other bs they want to do that is not related, $4,500 haha. Anyways, I contacted a mechanic that I know, and he just recommended a $5 tube of Instant Shudder Fixx. Just curious if anyone here has used it and if it is worth trying or just bite the bullet and pay $3k. Thanks!
Any recommendations on brand? Can anyone explain to me why to choose a 9.5" 10" or 10.5" size torque converter? I put a new cam in my 2002 C5 and after the tune it an sometimes stall out at stop signs, and I need to hold the brake peddle down hard to keep it from driving away. I'm told I need a 2800 Torque Converter. I should also mention it's a 4l60e trans.
I have a 2016 2dr JK with an automatic transmission. I currently have 48,000 miles on it. Approximately 6,000 mi ago, February of 2020, I had the transmission fluid changed, it was not flushed by my mechanic.
I've always allowed my vehicle to warm up approximately one minute before driving no matter the time of year. Approximately mid-october of this year I noticed a slight hesitation from shifting from park to reverse. Around Thanksgiving of this year on a particularly cold morning I shifted from park to reverse and the vehicle stalled. It did start up right away. I've also noticed that when coming out of my driveway and going down to the first stop sign at the end of my street and stopping completely I can feel the hesitation. All that I've mentioned above occurs during a cold start.
Once the vehicle is up to operating temperature and if I have shut the vehicle off and return a short time later I still feel a very slight hesitation going into reverse, but I no longer feel it while in drive and stopping. I do not notice any hesitation at higher speeds or while stopped idling in drive.
I'd like to know if anyone else has had these issues and if they have what was done to finally correct it?
I've not taken it to my mechanic yet, but I'd like to also know if without a check engine light if I did a deep scan tool run would an error come up? I'm trying to go into this with an idea of what could be wrong before spending a lot of money at the shop.
Thanks
I bought my son a Manco Conquest Fox with a 5hp motor, and what I believe is a 30 series torque converter, and recently upgrade to a Tillotson 212. I figured I'd have an issue with belts eventually... didn't expect it to only last a day. What are my best, and preferably cheapest torque converter options. I'm thinking 40 series with a 3/4" to 1" adapter for the crankshaft and leave the jackshaft at 5/8"? This is my first experience with a go kart so I'm not super familiar with what all is available. Thanks in advance!
Hello all just looking for some advice on torque converters.
My set up is a 88 AOD convertible 64k miles with E303 cam, TW 58cc heads, intake and exhaust done. Going to be putting some 15x9 10 hole rims from LMR with 275/50/r15 MT drag radials on soon, coming in the mail. Currently I have 225/60s on the rear so on take off it burns the tires grips and bogs up to about 3.5k then depending on the street blows them off till 2nd lol. So with the MTs I know I'm going to be bogging hard up to around 3-3.5k. So I'm looking at torque converters.
So I'm trying to choose between Boss Hog 10 inch converters with lockup with these stall ranges:
2800-3200, 3200-3600, and 3500-4200
The car is pretty much all street driving on weekends, rarely ever go to the track. Kinda stuck with a boss hog, I know there are better converters out there. Thanks for the help!
2017 LT with 78,000 miles. 5.3 with the 6-speed transmission. Torque converter failed. Mechanic says there was a bunch of metal in the pan and truck needs a whole new transmission. Anyone else heard of a torque converter failure on these trucks at 78,000 miles?
So 2011 3.6 5EAT 58,XXX miles.
I have some intermittent problems:
- The vehicle will surge forward while in drive and my foot on the brake. Doesn't matter how long I let it warm up. If I reverse out of a spot, foot on the brake and put it in drive, the vehicle wants to surge forward and I get a "booming" sound as if 2 things are hitting together. Usually happens first drive of the day.
- When slowing down and then getting back on the gas, the torque converter will slip. The rpms will flare and then the transmission will clunk into gear. Examples are slowing for a red light, then the red light turns green and you accelerate back to speed will cause a slip or slowing for a turn, making the turn and accelerating out will also cause a slip. I am not an aggressive driver and actually have friends who get on my case for how easy going I drive.
I realize this is a 10 year old vehicle, but it also has less than 60k miles on it. The previous owner took IMMACULATE care of this outback and has about 24 service records over 55k miles that are all oil/oil filter/air filters/fluids/rotations/alignments, even the optional engine cleaner. He took very good care of this and lack of maintenance is not the problem. And not that it matters to the problems but both paint and interior are in phenomenal condition. I've had the 60k service done.
The previous owner gave me all his old service record notes. At 2,067 miles he complained about the same things, pretty much verbatim. Subaru "could not replicate the issues" and told the previous owner it drives normally so he didn't bring it up again because "it drives normally" and is just a quirk of the vehicle.
Well 58,XXX miles on the odometer...it doesn't drive so normally and the problems that were blown off while under warranty are pretty apparent. And since this was complained about right out of the factory, I believe I have a case to get this "should have been warrantied" problem fixed. especially since Subaru has indirectly admitted theres are problems with their torque converters and TCM programing for 2010, 2011, 2012:
A. https://www.tsbsearch.com/Subaru/11-104-11
B. https://subaru.oemdtc.com/349/squeeking-sound-heard-while-cranking-2010-2012-subaru-legacy-outback
For B, i get a quick, intermittent, metal-metal screech. I have to have the doors open or be between t
... keep reading on reddit ➡How do I check to see if the torque converter is out on an 06 Chevy trailblazer LS? We pulled into the drive way last month and the truck stopped suddenly just stopped the next time we tried to leave the shifter will move but won’t actually go in reverse neutral drive and all that. we checked the linkage and it’s fine the transmission fluid is also fine. The torque converter is the only other thing we’ve been suggested to look at but I have no idea how to actually check if it’s bad and I don’t want to buy one and it not even be the problem.
As it says in the title, i have a 1989 Acura Integra LS which was bought new by my grandparents and passed down to me. I use it daily and would like to keep it in working order partly for sentimental reasons partly cause it is very fun to drive.
It has had an overcooling problem for some time now which we have somewhat solved by replacing temperature sensor, thermostat, and repairing the radiator. However, we never saw an improvement until we put a thermostat in made for "cold weather" (we live in florida). I believe this might have something to do with the next problem.
This is a more recent problem where after the car warms up the torque converter constantly engages and disengages. Though it still never really warms up all the way to where it should be, so my thought is that it may be thinking it isn't warmed up and thus disengaging the torque converter, and then it warms up just enough to engage the TC which then causes it to cool down and disengage.
I have basically no experience or knowledge of cars outside of what i've learned by listening to my dad who is a very good mechanic (but old now so can't do the work).
Does anyone else have ideas on what exactly may be malfunctioning and whether it is truly a TC/Transmission issue or if there is a temperature sensor in the TC that needs to be replaced? Any other advice on the overcooling issue is welcome as well.
I have a 2011 C300 diagnosed with a bad torque converter. A lot of hard vibration depending on speed. Mechanic told me I couldn't replace the torque converter without replacing the entire transmission which doesn't make sense to me. The car is basically a spare and I like having it. Its worth replacing the converter but not dropping thousands on a transmission. Is what I'm being told accurate or can I just swap out the converter and be on my way?
Can anybody give me a link for a good torque converter for my ct200u? (Under $50 if possible)
Suppose you have a drivetrain that goes ICE crank>electronically controlled clutch>motor>transmission, with a separate motor for the accessory belt. It seems like this drivetrain shouldn't need the engine to idle or have a flywheel or for the transmission to have a torque converter or reverse gear, which should save a lot of emissions, weight, and space. With this drivetrain, the motor could accelerate from a dead stop and reverse, with the engine only starting at what its idle speed would have been and only in forward gear. But I've never heard of a drivetrain like this (and it seems like a good idea, to me), so there I'm guessing there are major problems with it. I know start-stop systems have gotten pretty good, but how close are they to eliminating engine idle, completely? And flywheels, torque converters, and reverse gears?
Thanks!
