Sorry if the caption is too complex, I'm not a native speaker. My boyfriend gave me his canon analog camera. I was showing it to my cousin to teach him how analog cameras worked, but even though I told him not to a million times, he pressed on the focal plane shutter. This camera is very special to us, because ever since we first started seeing each other it was with us and now we're working this long distance thing and he gave it to me to mail him photos I took with the camera. So it's very precious for us both.
Is the focal plane shutter thing a problem? I tried getting answers online but couldn't find a lot.
Seems like they're all leaf shutters, which makes sense, but I'm curious if there are any curtain shuttered cams out there.
For people getting into medium format, one thing to keep in mind when choosing a camera is what kind of shutter mechanism the camera uses. There are two types of shutters, leaf shutters and focal plane shutters. I thought I'd try to explain both shutter mechanisms simply and the differences between them as far as I know. Feel free to add anything I missed or discuss about using both kinds of shutters.
Mechanics of Different Shutters
A basic explanation of the mechanical difference between the two types is that the leaf shutter is located in the lens and operates like the aperture to expose the film, whereas a focal plane shutter is in the camera body, and operates directly in front of the film.
Advantages and Disadvantages
Leaf shutter cameras when using flash can use any shutter speed, however the max speed of the leaf shutter is limited at 1/500. Additionally, due to the lenses being designed around the leaf shutter mechanism, compared to focal plane shutter lenses, leaf shutter lenses have smaller maximum apertures and are heavier.
On the other hand, focal plane cameras have a maximum sync speed which limits the maximum shutter speed when using flash. Further, due to the shutter mechanism being in the camera body it takes a lot of mechanical wear and thus will require more maintenance. The focal plane mechanical action also uses more kinetic energy compared to the leaf shutter and therefore introduces more vibration when triggered.
Implications for Shooting
These differences have some implications on which camera you could choose based on your style of shooting. Both kinds are fine for general photography however in certain situations you can say that one kind has an advantage. This is a whole other discussion, but to give a simple example; a leaf shutter camera like the Hasselblad 500C is suited to shoots in studio or outdoor using flash. On the other hand, a focal plane shutter camera, the Pentax 67 can be used to freeze fast sports with its 1/1000 shutter speed.
Im looking to buy a hasselblad camera.
There are two good offers in my area.
A 2000FC and a 501c.
Im not really sure what the differneces are.
Are the lenses interchangeable?
Hey /r/Cameras, I recently found a Minolta SRT 101 in my dads old storage and he said I could have it. I have no idea whatsoever when it was used last but the Focal plane shutter is not closing all the way after taking a picture, I think this may just be because no one has used it in a long time but I would really like to be able to fix it! Also the viewfinder is not showing unless the film is advanced and the picture is ready to be taken but I have no idea if this is intended or not. Any help would be much appreciated thanks!
I got my first longer focal length lens recently (Sigma 100-400mm 5.0-6.3 DG DN OS) and I noticed that I needed to shoot with around at least 1/300 shutter speed while bumping up the ISO for some candid portaits. Even at this shutter speed, most of my photos weren't sharp.
So I googled and found the '1/focal length rule', which says the shutter speed should match the focal length. How does this rule apply to non prime lenses? Should I be shooting at 1/400? Are there any other tips to get a sharp portrait with this type of lens?
Thanks
I have a 3d pose that with a specific camera matrix projects well on 2D image plane. However the camera matrix is not the real one(the transformation matrix is found from a CNN network). I want to propagate to the real Camera Matrix (with only focal length different), how the real rotation and translation will be , given that the final 3d pose should project on the same points in 2d plane?
I was thinking this equation
[R|t]_real = K_real^(-1)K_temp[R|t]_temp
where [R|t]_real and K_real are the real transformation matrix and camera matrix, while the K_temp, [R|t]_temp are the temporary one that project well on 2D image plane.
From the above equation, it seems that translation X, Y will change while the Z will stay constant.
Curious word choice to call film analog.
Anyway, still photos in magnetic tape in analog form sounds kind of interesting.
I need your opinion on something.
I've seen people online saying that for handheld photography, an easy way to figure your slowest SS is to refer to your focal length and not go under it, and your pictures should stay free of any motion blur that isn't from people, animals etc moving i the frame.Example : 50mm - SS max 1/50
I have yet to test this system as I need to go pretty slow (night/low light photography).For ex I shoot with 2 primes ATM, 35 and 50. SO I put my SS at 1/80 just to keep a small margin.
Have you tried this method ? Do you use it ? What are your thoughts and opinions ?I know I should bum up my SS to 1/125 to 1/250 but for handheld night street photography, I have to compromise so I don't bump my ISO too high.
For info my gear : Sony A7 III + SIgma f1.4 art lenses
EDIT :
Precisions : gear is fairly new and extensive tests still need to be performed, and I'm aware my hand steadiness/lens weight depends on the individual, but I'm welcoming any advice on this topic.
I have an extremely fast (f/1.05) night vision optic that I scavenged from a old night vision unit which is faster than current production lenses (f/1.23). However due to the design of newer night vision tubes, the lens will not focus to infinity on the night vision tube. This is because the old tubes had an imaging plane flush with the surface of the tube, but the new tubes have an imaging plane that is slightly recessed (~3 mm) from the surface. Even at it's closet travel (touching the front of the night vision tube) it will only focus to a point 20~30 cm away. Additionally the night vision optic is unit focusing.
As such, I am wondering what type of optical element I can put in front of the night vision optic to push the focal plane ~5 mm further away from the night vision optic? Also how will this effect image quality and fstop?
